TNLI

Only if the boat is an almost exact fit in a very narrow channel. Oddly enough the actual draught does reduce in a significant manner in shallow water at speed. That's why the QE2 ran aground once. A boat does need more power in shallow water, but the hull speed remains the same. This is noticeable in a flat bottomed canal boat hull but not a yacht.

Umm, it will only take twice as much power to do 3.5 rather than 3mph if the hull speed is around 4 mph. The last 20 odd percent to hull speed is real bad news in fuel economy terms. Hull speed in kts is 1.35 times square root of the waterline length in feet.

Good to hear all is well, and as regards the dipstick that rebuilt the pump. "Next time Specsavers"!! Looks like my guess of dodgy injection timing was correct, although I'm surprised it was the pump itself.

Does it smell of diesel or oil ??

Now this looks better, as they do a full range of NiCd batteries: IBL Industrial Batteries | Saft Batteries | Saft Ni-Cad Batteries (ibluk.co.uk)

Thanks, I got it the other way around, but still can't find the elusive 12V marine NiCad, or NiMh that was sold by UK chandleries a few years ago. I will eventually need 8, and 2 10hp, (7.5 if you don't like electrical smoke), go cart motors, (48V). Rough plan is to use one until one bank is flat, then switch on the other motor. 2 small diesel gens sets in the sealed fwd cabin. That means I can suffer the failure of one side but still have the other available. In fuel efficiency terms, no better than an old BMC. Not buying anything yet, just researching where to buy batteries from.

Missed out a second link that was supposed to be above the comment, as it was for a similar black battery. LiFe and LiPO4 are different types. If it has both and you tap on the wrong blue teeth button on your mobi, it explodes then turns into a ball of toxic smoke and fire. In fire fighting terms, all you can do is jump for the bank or into the canal, don't try a fire blanket or dry powder. Fit a burn through tube from a thru hull, then wait for the battery bay to flood before leaping back and closing the seacock.

No, you just need to fully discharge them every now and again. Well proven safe deep cycle technology, but around twice the price of a lead acid sealed deep cycle. NiMH are supposed to be better than NiCad, apart from higher self discharge rate.

Fleabay: 12V 100Ah Lithium Leisure Battery campervan / RV / marine E-marking BLUETOOTH | eBay Now this one is odd as it says LiFe/LiPO4 and the first one is a potential bomb, and the second is potential a difficult toxic ball of fire if you download the wrong App or suffer a loose connection. NiCads are good and you don't need expensive chargers or a blue teeth.

I did not know Sterling power were in China, and it says Unit 8, Wassage in Blighty for the one man and a dog marketing company, so is that where Sterling power reside ?. No chance of tracing the actual Chinese manufacturer. I'm still looking at which small 28 or 48V motors to use, if I decide to sell my beloved BMC 1500 cos by go green daughter does not like diesels. I'm going to finish the engine rebuild and keep it in the garage whilst changing tack to the forward cabin interior. Just cos it says LiPO4 on the case, does not mean it is, they make very good quality labels in China. I don't think this battery includes an expensive BMS, but will take a look at the required charger.

Microsoft Word - LiPo_battery_safety.docx (uvm.edu) The only difference when the BMS fails and the battery over heats, is that a LiPO battery catches fire, rather than explodes. The complexity of the wiring and even software associated with LiPO batteries and regen drive systems is nuts in reliability and safety terms. There are a very few companies in Germany and the US that do seem to make more reliable LIPO systems that are waterproof and fail safe, but they are incredibly expensive. The other so called LiPO expert companies are just selling imported far Eastern junk. It's worth reading the warnings on the right side of this Fleabay LiPO4 special. The internet search engines go nuts when you type in 12V Lithium battery, which I find very irritating, as no one is checking the safety of the new imports or if they are real LiPO4 batteries or not. No checks on all the waterproof BMS systems to see if they really are suitable for a boat. It's only the fire brigade and insurance companies that are trying to reduce the number of fires. Force 4 were selling a very nice 12V marine Nicad a few years ago, but I can't find it online. Anyone know where that type of 12V battery is being sold??

Accident Investigator Cites Lithium Liabilities (substack.com) Very interesting if you are thinking of using Lithium batteries that's one funny but true article. The fire from lithium batteries cannot be extinguished by conventional suppression agents, so you’ll need to figure out your own system. Vast quantities of water seem to work. So, you could install a dedicated sensor, through-hull, water pump, and flooding software. I’m sure that someone will figure out a Bluetooth-connected app so you can remotely sink your boat to prevent it from burning.

Amerex 2.5 Gal. Water Extinguisher with Wall Hook - Model 240 (Part #0 - Beacon Fire Supply OK, so if you want to buy the real thing, it seems that you have to order it from the USA, as the link is for the exact fire extinguisher I have, which can be filled with a mixture of anti freeze and water if you live in the artic, otherwise the lower temperature limit is 40f for an extinguisher purchased in the UK, although the pre filled ones contain some kind of fire retardant that makes the water more effective. The US ones are shipped empty. If you are interested in buying one, ask the UK dealer what the score is, as it might be the same model, but for legal reasons they can't say it can be recharged by the user. You can pump them up with a good car foot pump, or plug in electric pump, BUT it takes quite a while, and can be done far faster at a garage or fuel station air line.

Thanks, so am I right to think that it can be adjusted with one screw, or do you need to adjust both settings to avoid a wrong mixture issue ?? I have vague memories of a trip with an uncle nearly sixty years ago along the lower grand union canal and he was an expert marine engineer, as he fiddled with something on the Perkins that made the hired canal boat go faster. Some of the folks fishing or walking along the banks started shouting insults about the bow wave sweeping along the bank.

I add a small amount of anti freeze, although the sealed ones already contain it, BUT if in doubt read the specifications for the minimum temperature, as some old cheap units are for indoors use and might not have any anti freeze. Be careful with stainless water extinguisher copies, cos I just looked at one and has plus 5C for a lower limit! Quote from fire safety site: Fire Extinguishers With Anti-Freeze Added Some fire extinguisher brands offer water based fire extinguishers with additional anti-freeze added to the mixture. For example, ethylene glycol can be added to water to lower the freezing point. However, at very low temperatures, it will thicken and eventually clog the nozzle. Salts can also be added to water fire extinguishers to lower the point of freezing while not thickening. I would note that foam extinguishers can also freeze, so it's good that alias asked about the minimum temperature. So buy from a real top brand company and read the specifications sheet. Be vary careful of buying a bad copy from Fleabay or Amazinzone. Right now I'm miffed at the AMEREX UK dealer, as they fail to list the minimum temperature on their web site, and say it certified to BSEN3, which is interesting to read: pffeguid.pdf (firesafe.org.uk) BUT, I still can't find the minimum temperature!

We are getting a bit off topic talking about a hot car fire, as anyone that goes near one with a small portable fire extinguisher is some kind of lunatic. Obviously a large fire requires a lot of water, and the new large extended cab SUV's can plug into a fire hydrant. Good of you to explain when they use foam, as I knew they had that capability but was not sure when they used it. For any boater reading this, most car fires do not involve the fuel tank exploding like they always do in Hollywood films, so the amount of fuel involved is often fairly small, but the interior of the car and all the plastic parts in the engine bay do burn rather too well. I would love to see a video of a Tesla or similar Li battery powered car on fire, because around 200 people a year burn to death in car and truck fires in the UK, (Might be an old figure), but if we change to all electric, I wonder if that figure will go up or down ?? I would point out that my all stainless Amerex water extinguisher has a brass adjustable nozzle, and one small truck in the US that I saw fighting a light aircraft start fire that was out of control, was using a hose with an adjustable nozzle. Alas you can't get adjustable nozzles certified for non professional use, so you have to buy 2 hoses with fixed nozzles and a small spanner! Amerex still supply spares for my extinguisher, but I would warn anyone that buys an old one, that you should get it checked out by a diving bottle company for internal corrosion, as stainless can corrode if someone fills it with something daft, with vinegar being one common fluid that would cause long term internal corrosion. The 5 year bottle inspection is only a legal requirement for commercial use, so I just used a borescope, and luckily the inside is still nice and shiny. The max pressure, (Top of green arc), is 100 psi, so I only pump it up with my twin barrel car foot pump to 70 psi, which is bottom of the green arc. It's one amazing fire extinguisher, as it can fire a fine jet right across the road and maintain that performance until its starts hissing which is a few seconds before it runs out of water. I'm looking for a more fire resistant slinky hose for my deck wash pump, preferably in Dayglo green, but the only ones I can find are in the US at present. Good of you to confirm they are using fine mist water hoses, as they are far better when used in a confined space where the dry powder will often get in your eyes. If you have a plastic, (Polyester or contaminated floor epoxy build), fiberglass or a wooden boat, it is possible in design terms to make them far less flammable. All you do is install a thru hull and seacock with a thin plastic hose along the side to the top or each locker or compartment, BUT with a smaller end fitting. Then if that area catches fire the plastic burns through the thin hose flooding the locker, or engine bay. Obviously this might sink the boat unless it has watertight compartments or is unsinkable by design, (Mine will be when finished), although if you only fit them to lockers with a drain that is smaller than the bilge pumps can handle, it won't sink the boat. Alas it only seems to be mostly lifeboat or oil industry on station rescue vessels that are designed with fires and collisions in mind, although there are a few more expensive offshore fishing boats, and a very few full displacement gin palaces, (Nice liveaboard trawler designs), that are designed to be safe when a disaster occurs. Final comment for today, (Lots of cheers from the flooded ditch fans), this is what I think the BSS Regs should be: 1/ A small fire blanket in each cabin, but an extra large fire blanket in the galley area. 2/ Auto burst fire bottles in the engine and generator bays, (Dry powder is OK as foam ones are twice the size). 3/ An above decks wash down or fresh water pump slinky hose with an adjustable nozzle. 4/ A large water extinguisher with dual hoses and a Y valve, (Fine spray or 50ft jet) 5/ A large dry powder or foam fire extinguisher, (The latter needs to be bigger for the same rating),. The 2 larger portables should be sored in clearly marked boxes either above decks or right next to the exits. Now that would prevent a lot of small fires developing because the owner, renter or crew make a total cock up of dealing with a small fire, that often occurs because they have never used a small dry powder extinguisher, and staying in the same cabin or a few feet from a fire to use one is nuts, if the small fire blanket fails, get out of the area and use a real extinguisher that has a far safer range from outside of the area, Most crew that use a deck wash pump to clean off bird poop, or muddy boot marks are real aces when it comes to fire fighting, as they know how to use the hose and what it can or can't do in spray pattern and range terms. Ah, final rant about gas lockers, as I tested a few in a marina that looked good but failed a smoke test, so if the bottle or connections had leaked heavier than air propane, it would have leaked out of the lid and drifted down into the cabin. The problem was that the drain line that goes outside was either blocked by dirt, or had been incorrectly installed by the build team, so that it drained water but the angle was wrong and left enough water in the drain hose to stop gas passing through it. That inspection of the boats in Puerto Mogan followed after an incident in which a yacht exploded as a result of an incorrectly installed drain hose. A very small fire started after the big bang in the bilges, but it was fairly easily put out by flooding the bilges using a 3/4 inch garden hose from a pontoon tap. It took a while as there was some smoke making it difficult to see what was burning. The entire lower half of the interior fit was literally blown apart, so it was a real mess inside, so stayed outside and just kept spraying the cabin sole area until the fire was out. Without that hose the fire would have developed into a real serious conflagration, that could have spread to other boats, as it takes over an hour to get a real fire truck to that port. PS: It would be good if some canal folks tried to move up to using newer technologies, like Hydrogen cookers. I've not found a company suppling single burners yet, as the only one has a long list of back orders. Direct body heating is also catching on with those folks planning for the end of cheap gas, coal and oil. The new caravan solar panels are cheap and effective, but the wind generators are problematic in installation terms, but I did see one go green river boat last year that had one right along side that was portable and had a safety deflector ring.

They have been using rapid response SUV's with a lot less than 1000 gallons in London, it was the fine mist water spray that impressed me, although they also use portable foam extinguishers. Not sure what the bigger fire trucks have these days. Oddly enough high voltage electrical fires on small boats are very rare, and obviously turning the gen set off might help. I've been trained to deal with both aircraft cabin fires and boat fires, and I can assure you that trying to put a fire out with a typical dry powder extinguisher does not work too well, and can be dangerous due to their limited range, as you have to get far too close. A longer range hose or more powerful full size water extinguisher is far safer and more effective. Obviously people do move clear of a fire, but I've been at one incident where everyone moved clear of a burning motor bike, until some clown went to his car and returned with a small dry powder extinguisher and tried to put the fire out, but he could not get close enough, so it made no difference and he burnt his hands in the attempt. A full size portable or even a garden hose would have helped a lot more. I'm surprised the BSS says 3 small dry powder extinguishers and not one small and one full size longer range unit, although 2 and a water hose would be better. Fire blankets are a must have item, as they do work well on small galley fires in particular. I took a look at the Amerex web site, and get the impression that you might not be able to refill their new water extinguishers, which is a real pity, as it did allow the crew to have some fun when it was hot. I even used one to clean the outside of the hull recently. I got mine from Fleabay for only 15 quid, (I did have to pick it up), and was real pleased to get such a classic extinguisher. I first saw one used for an out of control bonfire 30 years ago, and was very impressed at both the range and how easy it was to refill. That was back when I was living in the US and flying water bombers (CL 215's), or survey aircraft mapping new forest fires in the US and Canada. We used water unless there were buildings or people around, then switched on the retardant foam bottle. I'm in this old clip, although the Spanish chap who posted it copied some clips from the CL fleet in Canada.

NOTE – portable fire extinguishers manufactured prior to the introduction of EN 3 may not have fire ratings marked on the extinguisher. Such extinguishers maintained in good condition, properly certified and satisfying the navigation authority’s previous individual and total weight requirements are acceptable. I doubt if the BSS would reject extinguishers that are far better than dry powder ones, although if they are that fussy, then just buy one for use on fires that you want to put out first go without either half blinding yourself or making a big mess. Foam vs Powder Fire Extinguisher - Which One to Choose? (safelincs.co.uk) It does mention in that page that foam does soak into the fuel and cool it down, which is why it does not reignite, like the training fiasco I watched with a dry powder extinguisher. The fact that the BSS does not insist on a water hose in addition to portable extinguishers makes me wonder if they have looked at the range of the small extinguishers in terms of range, as you do need to get far too close to the fire in comparison to a hose. My Amerex or slinky should be good for 50 ft, when a normal handheld dry powder is only good for 5ft.

I got lucky because the way it was listed it would not have been seen by any BMC parts hunters, and it's a bad idea to put a rare item that not many buyers are looking for in an auction. The best way to sell it is fixed price but open to offers.

So that reduction is due to the different HP pump I presume ?? My scanner printer is hard wired cos the WiFi connection kept needing to be rebooted.

Alas I can't get my fathers PC to accept scans from his printer scanner. Assuming the seller does not cancel the deal after only getting a tenner plus postage, I will copy the relevant parts list, as it includes 3 different engines. J2 - 152 Omin (austinmemories.com) Diesel 1,498 cc 40 bhp at 4,000 rpm Max torque 64 lbs/ft at 1,900 rpm Not sure if the 35hp marine version loss is due to the different CAV DPA fuel injection pump, bigger flywheel or different gearbox.

YES, I WON !! BMC Morris J2 /152 Light van pick up minibus Service Parts list AAK 9873 See original listing Condition:

In my opinion they would be ideal for boats but it is unlikely to happen until they get class A & B fire approval. Try clicking on the link and reading all about water mist extinguishers before posting your comment. Better link: Water Mist Fire Extinguishers - For Most Types of Fire (safelincs.co.uk) Water Mist - Amerex Fire Systems (amerex-fire.com) A, B and C !! Change Now to Broad-Spectrum Water Mist Fire Extinguishers Our water mist extinguishers discharge de-ionised water in a super fine spray to form a mist jet. They have a broader fire-fighting capability than powder, foam or wet chemical extinguishers. Now if I was buying a fire extinguisher for a canal boat, I would probably opt for water mist, possibly from Safelincs.

Thanks for that reply, and the portable water based refillable fire extinguishers are only supplied with a long range jet, or a fine spray which is not a true mist like the white class C ones, which is why I would not go near any electrical fire with more than 240V using a converted extinguisher like the one I have, also they get filled with normal tap water which is a better conductor. In certification terms, adjustable nozzles are only allowed for hoses or extinguishers used by qualified fire crew, and they don't approve one for use against fuel fires due to the risk of using it on a frying pan or pool of fuel. Amerex did have a dealer in the UK, but very few private boat owners buy their extinguishers as they are expensive, partly due to import fees. Most boaters that own or fit small dry powder fire extinguishers have never used one, and have not watched the training video clips which show just how problematic they can be in a confined space. In one clip that involved a variety of different types of small extinguisher including foam and CO2 on typical boat and light aircraft fires boat, the winner was a fire blanket, not an extinguisher. I would never allow petrol cans on any boat I own or skipper, as putting out a leaking can of petrol in a locker is far more difficult than putting out a diesel or oil fire. The only real difficulty is the incredible amount of thick smoke that such fires generate can make finding the source very difficult. In that situation a hose set to fine spray and simply dropped into the locker does work, partly because if you cool off the area that is on fire below 50C the diesel stops burning. If you have a simple adjustable slinky hose with a brass nozzle that can be adjusted to fine spray or jet, simply dropping it into the locker or engine bay and running away often works, whereas playing around with a few small dry powder bottles will probably get you burnt or gassed by the fumes. I would note that lifting up a locker lid if the contents is burning might not be a good idea. A real good boat should have fire ports that you can unscrew, or smash, then you put the nozzle through the fire port and turn it on. What I can't understand is why they do not seem to be selling small foam extinguishers, only full size ones. Repeat of link, as it's a real good one: Water Mist Extinguishers – UK Fire Service Resources WOW! stunned to read it will do a deep fat fire and electric, so this is a real general purpose one. Pressure cookers on boats: If you want to cook safely in a small boat at sea, in a marina or even in a canal, use a stainless pressure cooker, particularly if your crew are not used to boats and how they roll when effected by the wake of a passing boat, BUT throw the weight away! Even if your canal is so narrow and everyone sticks to the speed limit, it's still safer to use a weight free pressure cooker. Even if your cooker has gimbals, they can easily be exceeded, or some clown simply drops the pot.