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BMC 1500 diesel


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1 hour ago, MtB said:

 

Somehow, why am I not shocked?! 

 

 

I called around every marine engineering company around the poole area and all of them either stated they only installed new engines, or they were fully booked for at least the next 3 months. It was only when I talked to a chap with Sunseekers that he pointed out that his friend installed engines in the RNLI offshore production factory. The delay is because they are slightly behind schedule this year, so he is already working 6 days a week until the Christmas holiday. 

 

Anyone got a comment about the instrument panel parts. 

 

AHH, just notice the nice shiny 3 gauge panel from the far East has a clear pipe and might not be an electronic only panel, unless the white tubing is some type of protection ??

Might go for this one:

2'' 52mm Bezel Voltmeter Water Thermometer & Oil Pressure Electrical Gauge UK 9394807305347 | eBay

Edited by TNLI
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23 minutes ago, TNLI said:

I called around every marine engineering company around the poole area and all of them either stated they only installed new engines, or they were fully booked for at least the next 3 months. It was only when I talked to a chap with Sunseekers that he pointed out that his friend installed engines in the RNLI offshore production factory. The delay is because they are slightly behind schedule this year, so he is already working 6 days a week until the Christmas holiday. 

 

Anyone got a comment about the instrument panel parts. 

 

AHH, just notice the nice shiny 3 gauge panel from the far East has a clear pipe and might not be an electronic only panel, unless the white tubing is some type of protection ??

Might go for this one:

2'' 52mm Bezel Voltmeter Water Thermometer & Oil Pressure Electrical Gauge UK 9394807305347 | eBay

 

The pipe is a pressure tube - so its mechanical oil pressure gauge

 

Oil in KG per what?

 

Also you need to make sure that the oil sender is the right thread for the BMC or comes with an adaptor.

 

Edited by StephenA
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1 hour ago, StephenA said:

 

The pipe is a pressure tube - so its mechanical oil pressure gauge

 

Oil in KG per what?

 

Also you need to make sure that the oil sender is the right thread for the BMC or comes with an adaptor.

 

I've just ordered this one:

2'' 52mm Bezel Voltmeter Water Thermometer & Oil Pressure Electrical Gauge UK 9394807305347 | eBay

 

No choice with cheaper units about sensor size, as the all seem to use 1/8 NPT. No idea of that matches a BMC, but if not, I do have a tap and die set etc.

 

EEK! Just read in Norfolk Broads forum that the sensors are 3/8 not 1/8NPT, so might need one or two of these:

NPT Male to NPT Female Steel Thread Adapters , NPT Nipple x NPT Bush Hydraulic | eBay

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Boat Gauges Set, 12V/24V Gauge Cluster 5-Gauge Set Includes Tach, Oil Press, Oil level, Voltage & Water Temp Gauges with Ignition Keys, Multi-Functions Panel Combination Meter for Boat Yacht : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

 

Just spotted that panel in Amazingzon, not listed in Fleabay. If I used fuel tank senders, (2 tanks, 2 filters etc), which I don't as I have clearview panels that allow me to see the actual fuel level in the Plastimo tanks, I would definitely think about buying that panel as it's far cheaper and can be matched to the existing senders.

 

Also looking at these for the 2 gearbox end, (6 mounts required not 4), as they are a cheap way of connecting to a heavy alloy plate on a hardwood block. Wish I had some Mahogany or Teak, but it will have to be Oak through bolted to the hull. The other 4 angled mounts look to be in good condition and TB says they are OEM and don't fail etc.

 

Engine Rubber Mounts Set + Nyloc Nuts For Land Rover Defender Discovery ANR1808K | eBay

 

Edited by TNLI
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9 hours ago, TNLI said:

I've just ordered this one:

2'' 52mm Bezel Voltmeter Water Thermometer & Oil Pressure Electrical Gauge UK 9394807305347 | eBay

 

No choice with cheaper units about sensor size, as the all seem to use 1/8 NPT. No idea of that matches a BMC, but if not, I do have a tap and die set etc.

 

EEK! Just read in Norfolk Broads forum that the sensors are 3/8 not 1/8NPT, so might need one or two of these:

NPT Male to NPT Female Steel Thread Adapters , NPT Nipple x NPT Bush Hydraulic | eBay

 

You do seem to be 'crashing about' in an un-coordinated, un-informed way, buying 'stuff' which is incomplete, broken or just 'wrong', and then bodging things up with adapters etc.

 

It may be worth asking for advice BEFORE buying rather than asking 'how can I make this fit' afterwards.

 

Is your Trans Atlantic voyage singlehanded, or will you have crew ?

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1 hour ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

You do seem to be 'crashing about' in an un-coordinated, un-informed way, buying 'stuff' which is incomplete, broken or just 'wrong', and then bodging things up with adapters etc.

 

It may be worth asking for advice BEFORE buying rather than asking 'how can I make this fit' afterwards.

 

Is your Trans Atlantic voyage singlehanded, or will you have crew ?

Yep, I'm a bodger cos it's far cheaper. If I win the lotto I will think about employing a few friends to finish building my offshore lifeboat.

  I don't like sailing long ocean passages with any crew and as a former survivor of a 3 year single handed circumnavigation in a steel Van der Stadt 34 that I rebuilt after a fire, I do know Pantaneus will insure me after the survey, (More than 50 years old hulls require a full survey for hull insurance). The more idiots on a boat, the more dangerous it is, so one is enough!

 

Adapters are not a real bodge, they are just a normal part of life when you are a part time bodger!

 

Thrashing about in the Hindernet does help. For example I use a lot of Evostick Sticks Like Sh1t adhesive, (Clear or White), cos it's nice to work with and was recommended by Practical Boat Owner as the best all round adhesive. B and Q were the cheapest at 6.50 a tube with free delivery over 60 quid, BUT they raised the price to 8 quid a few weeks ago and that's the same as the Fleabay folks. Took a good look around in Google and bingo, TOOLZONE list it for only 6 quid a tube and free delivery over 50 quid. Win a Winner, Chicken Dinner!

 

Sticks like Sh1t is not much good for metals, so I use rather expensive SABATACK 750XL, (White, black or mahogony), which costs around 11 quid a tube! It sticks to any metal, even Aluminium, (40 grit to remove shine first), and the only equivalent adhesive is made by Aquaseal, but unobtainium at present. Both listed as best for metals, but not too good for fiberglass or painted surfaces.

Edited by TNLI
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2 hours ago, TNLI said:

snip

 

Also looking at these for the 2 gearbox end, (6 mounts required not 4), as they are a cheap way of connecting to a heavy alloy plate on a hardwood block. Wish I had some Mahogany or Teak, but it will have to be Oak through bolted to the hull. The other 4 angled mounts look to be in good condition and TB says they are OEM and don't fail etc.

 

Engine Rubber Mounts Set + Nyloc Nuts For Land Rover Defender Discovery ANR1808K | eBay

 

 

Those mounts are not designed to accept prop thrust, and nether are the front rubber blocks. They will probably work for a while but i would not be surprised if the rubber started to peel away from the steel end plates. They can really only accept compression, not the sheer caused by the prop thrust. If you have a shaft thrust bearing the they should do the job but how much vibration they would transmit is open to question.

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17 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

BMC are 1/8" BSP unless my brain has stopped working again.   3/8" is massive.  Missproint?

Great thanks, so I will stop reading technical posts from the Norfolks Broads forum!!

 

 

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19 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Those mounts are not designed to accept prop thrust, and nether are the front rubber blocks. They will probably work for a while but i would not be surprised if the rubber started to peel away from the steel end plates. They can really only accept compression, not the sheer caused by the prop thrust. If you have a shaft thrust bearing the they should do the job but how much vibration they would transmit is open to question.

Thanks, so that means I will have to look at the Fleabay ones, or ASAP like what the RNLI chap said. I'm ordering parts for him to keep the cost down, although he is only charging 20 quid an hour, not 50 like the Alloy welder charges. I was also pleased to find out he can weld both stainless and alloy, but I've finished repairing the hull, so only need basic welding.

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1 hour ago, Tracy D'arth said:

But BSP is not the same as NPT, not compatible.

I don't think I wrote BSP anywhere and the broads did say NPT. 3/8th is defintely big donley sensor size.

 

Changing tack slightly, has anyone fitted one of these ??

 

Oil Filter Conversion kit (screw type) for bmc. 1.5 (1500) Leyland captain | eBay

 

Is it really true that the old canister oil filters are difficult to change, or is that comment from the Fleabay seller just sales uckspeak ??

Edited by TNLI
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48 minutes ago, TNLI said:

snip

 

Oil Filter Conversion kit (screw type) for bmc. 1.5 (1500) Leyland captain | eBay

 

Is it really true that the old canister oil filters are difficult to change, or is that comment from the Fleabay seller just sales uckspeak ??

 

Not me, but if I had a 1.5 AND that filter cleared the engine bed/frame it would be one of the first things I would do - far easier to do a clean oil and filter change.

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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

PS, I last night I thought tat I could not see a raw water pump or it's crankshaft pully on that video and I can't. I trust you are aware it is a keel cooled engine.

Lifeboats are supposed to have keel cooled, and it's a more reliable system if done correctly. Luckily Alumnium hulls are easy in heat dissapation terms, it works out at just under 1 square meter and will be an inside tank configuration, not outside pipes etc.

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4 hours ago, TNLI said:

I don't think I wrote BSP anywhere and the broads did say NPT. 3/8th is defintely big donley sensor size.

 

Changing tack slightly, has anyone fitted one of these ??

 

Oil Filter Conversion kit (screw type) for bmc. 1.5 (1500) Leyland captain | eBay

 

Is it really true that the old canister oil filters are difficult to change, or is that comment from the Fleabay seller just sales uckspeak ??

 

The old canister type was a right pain.  We swapped over to an adaptor kit sometime back in the early 90's. Just make sure that the filter you get isn't so deep that it can't be slipped in and out over the top of the starter motor.

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2 hours ago, StephenA said:

 

The old canister type was a right pain.  We swapped over to an adaptor kit sometime back in the early 90's. Just make sure that the filter you get isn't so deep that it can't be slipped in and out over the top of the starter motor.

Thanks and I will order one later. Still trying to figure out where to get a spin on fuel filter, (I don't like CAV 296 ones at all), that is equivalent to a Fleetguard LF 3335. There are lots of equivalents like the Fram PH 3614 or WIX 51348, but both are silly money, also I want to find a Bosche, Mann or Mahle made in Germany job. Off to check the equvalents list again this evening.

 

Also looking at this spin on fuel filter kit:

Spin On Fuel Filter Conversion Kit (CAV Replacement) (asap-supplies.com)

 

Good element from ASAP, (Made in Germany):

Diesel Fuel Filter Element, Spin On (Replaces AZF091, 5003) (asap-supplies.com)

Edited by TNLI
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As regards my beloved keel cooled BMC 1500 in the clip, I can't see where the coolant exits or enters. There only seems to be one hole and not 2, although I presume it might be from the circulting pump. taking a better look tomorrow, when I plan to move the engine a few miles to my old mans garage, as it's in a storage only location. I bought a Vetus goosneck some time ago when I had planned to buy another suck and spit cooled Bukh 24 donkey, so will need to sell it and buy a stainless exhaust tube and muffler box. 
  I'm going to fit only one plate of 1 square meter, based on the Beta 38 keel cooled donkey figure:
 
Changing tack, anyone fitted one of these spin on fuel; filter kits, as it's cheaper than the ASAP version by about a fiver:
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23 minutes ago, TNLI said:

Anyone know the outside dimensions of the exhaust pipe, as I need to start looking for a source of stainless hose, silencer and flapper valve.??

 

That will be determined by the diameter of the exhaust outlet elbow, and as the one in the vid is for a wet exhaust and there is no raw water pump on the engine (as far as I can see) you will probably want another elbow.  It will also ned to match the exhaust  skin fitting or exhaust roof stack and any silencer you intend to use.

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On 17/10/2021 at 12:34, TNLI said:

I don't think I wrote BSP anywhere and the broads did say NPT. 3/8th is defintely big donley sensor size.

 

Changing tack slightly, has anyone fitted one of these ??

 

Oil Filter Conversion kit (screw type) for bmc. 1.5 (1500) Leyland captain | eBay

 

Is it really true that the old canister oil filters are difficult to change, or is that comment from the Fleabay seller just sales uckspeak ??

I've fitted a conversion kit to my BMC 1.5 but actually I think there are cheaper kits on Ebay to the one you have linked . The canister type are more difficult to change although it depends how easy access is to your engine . 

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1 hour ago, Troyboy said:

I've fitted a conversion kit to my BMC 1.5 but actually I think there are cheaper kits on Ebay to the one you have linked . The canister type are more difficult to change although it depends how easy access is to your engine . 

Yep, so I ordered this one from Fleabay:

BMC Mini 950cc 1500cc Diesel Engine Spin on Oil Filter head with Gasket & Bolts | eBay

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2 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

That will be determined by the diameter of the exhaust outlet elbow, and as the one in the vid is for a wet exhaust and there is no raw water pump on the engine (as far as I can see) you will probably want another elbow.  It will also ned to match the exhaust  skin fitting or exhaust roof stack and any silencer you intend to use.

That exhaust is really weird. Not inclined to change it until I figure out what is going on. The elbow looks similar to the one ASAP list, BUT there are some owners who use a salt water inlet and electric pump to feed the elbow, as I read that on a keel cooling page. 

 

Umm, starting to think that it is in fact a direct salt water cooled version that is just missing the hose to the mixing elbow. Plan to visit the engine and take a better look tomorrow PM.  Luckily I did not order a stainless pipe and muffler yet!

Edited by TNLI
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Small Bowman FM Ford Exhaust Outlet (asap-supplies.com)

 

I think that matches up with my stainless outlet pipe. Can't seem to find the old rubber exhaust pipe at present. Visiting the used boat bits shop later as they have a Vetus waterblock box that I think is also 2 inches. Can't find an external flapper at present and I've already got a nice stainless vented loop for the sea water feed pipe that I think is the same diameter as that smaller pipe.

 

My BMC in action before Ferrari red paint job:

Facebook

 

Ahh! No it's not the ASAP stainless job, as the section before the sea water pipe is longer. Anyone see a hidden heat exchanger ??

 

PS: I really don't care if it's keel, (More expensive installation), fresh or salt water cooled, they all have their advantages and disadvantages. Wonder where the zinc anodes might be ??

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1 hour ago, TNLI said:

PS: I really don't care if it's keel, (More expensive installation), fresh or salt water cooled, they all have their advantages and disadvantages. Wonder where the zinc anodes might be ??

 

I have never seen on on/in a direct cooled BMC 1.5, maybe that is why the indirect version became so popular. I expect the exhaust manifold would go some way to acting as one if its aluminium. The original raw water cooled Newage/Tempest marinisations had  a much thinner cast iron manifold. This was retained for the earlier heat exchanger engines with a Bowman heat exchanger mounted across the front of the engine. No sign of that or it's bracket so If there is a heat exchanger core it is inside the manifold.

 

If it is heat exchanger cooled the heat exchanger will be in the exhaust manifold and I would expect one large hose connection on it, probably underneath, and two small hose connections. I am not familiar with that manifold and suspect it is not a Newage/Tempest one. There is a hint of a "swelling bottom front of the manifold that may be a hose connection.

 

If it is keel cooled the gearbox oil cooler should be connected to the inlet for the engine water pump by a large hose (say 1.25" roughly). The video seems to show a much smaller one, more like the expected raw water size, leaving the oil cooler. The oil cooler needs to be in the cooler return from the keel cooler. The hose on the engine water pump is larger as I would expect but runs vertically downwards to goodness knows where. I can't see a large hot water outlet from the manifold.

 

The exhaust mixing elbow may well be a home made/locally fabricated job. The original Newage/Tempest ones were cast iron and totally different. With no raw water pump and that elbow I suspect its is very much a bitsa,  especially with the bodged rear mounting system.

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