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Please can anyone identify my engine.

It has a tag fitted to the block

15V/160B/D10033

AND IN CASTING 1500D

AND A3J8.

I require a full gasket kit.

Also coming out of the front side inspection cover there is a metal tube.

What is it for

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It is a BMC 1.5 diesel engine. I am sure Calcutt Boats or ASAP Supplies can oblige with the gasket set.

 

The tube you talk of is the crankcase breather. Originally it had a hose on it that ran to the air cleaner but I would run a hose in to a plastic milk bottle sat beside the engine. The breather tends to leak a bit of oil, especially when the engine wears.

Edited by Tony Brooks

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What particular detailed identification do you need?  You appear to know the engine is a BMC 1500 diesel

 Gasket sets should be available from Calcutt Boats or possibly  a really good motor factor.

The tube is a crankcase breather.  It should be connected to the air filter housing if one is fitted.

N

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Thank you for your quick response.

Does both the tube from the inspection cover and the tube from rocker cover both go into this bottle or air filter housing

Sorry I am not a mechanic. I am an engineer and self taught

My friend has this engine on his boat and after being ripped off by so many so called experts I have managed to get it running fine.

I am assuming this is a B series engine

There is still a lot I do not know.

He is 72 and spent a ridiculous amount of money for no return

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I usually blank off the breather on the rocker box, feed the side chest one into the air filter or a plastic bottle but you can join them together.

Its basically a BMC "B" block with the distributor drive turned by skew gears to drive the injection pump. That gear and shaft need cleaning at the long service interval, 300 hours.They are under the big hex plug above the rear side chest cover under the exhaust manifold.

The full workshop manual is on the internet for free,

 

The gasket set is either a head set and separate sump set or the whole shebang, Motor factor will be the cheapest, try ebay. The main spares suppliers are Calcutt, or  ASAP Supplies.

There are 2 different head sets depending on the type of valve stem seals,

Most gasket sets exclude lip oil seals, available from bearing service companies.

What do you need gaskets for?

Edited by Boater Sam
added more

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OYes, both breathers can go to the same place.  The air inlet is best IMO as then any funes should eventually come out of the exhaust rather than remain in the engine space.

 

The engine is based on the B series petrol engine, yes, but there are differences so some petrol B series parts will not fit.  Tony Brooks will be able to identify the differences better than I.

N

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If you require a full gasket set presumably you are rebuilding it for your friend. It is basically a B series engine, From memory there are no particular quirks or problems in it. The timing chain tensioner is a bit awkward and whilst you are at it just check the shaft that drives the fuel pump, again from memory there is a master spline so it locates properly but there is a roll pin that fixes the gear on the shaft, make sure its in properly and not loose. apart from that its basically just a big mini engine.

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6 minutes ago, Bee said:

apart from that its basically just a big mini engine.

Though the B series didn't have the annoying A series thermostat bypass hose, nor was the flywheel on a (hard to remove) taper IIRC.

 

N

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3 minutes ago, BEngo said:

Though the B series didn't have the annoying A series thermostat bypass hose, nor was the flywheel on a (hard to remove) taper IIRC.

 

N

Oh yes, they were good weren't they. Luckily I have had mostly Jap. engines for many years, no longer need Swarfega, overalls, ramps. etc. etc.

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I'd remove the side plate with the breather tube on it and clean it out, they can clog up badly with sludge. The gaskets for them will be in the sump set or complete gasket set.

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3 hours ago, Boater Sam said:

I usually blank off the breather on the rocker box, feed the side chest one into the air filter or a plastic bottle but you can join them together.

Its basically a BMC "B" block with the distributor drive turned by skew gears to drive the injection pump. That gear and shaft need cleaning at the long service interval, 300 hours.They are under the big hex plug above the rear side chest cover under the exhaust manifold.

The full workshop manual is on the internet for free,

 

The gasket set is either a head set and separate sump set or the whole shebang, Motor factor will be the cheapest, try ebay. The main spares suppliers are Calcutt, or  ASAP Supplies.

There are 2 different head sets depending on the type of valve stem seals,

Most gasket sets exclude lip oil seals, available from bearing service companies.

What do you need gaskets for?

I am just replacing sump gasket to make sure it dosent leak then it was recommended to remove side covers and clean sludge out

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Would you be able to send me the page with gear and shaft showing please my email address is [email protected]

I am retired used to repair engineering machinery.

Bill who owns the boat is 72 and has had a load of idiots claiming to be experts who have charged him a lot of money and done nothing.

I have managed to get it running sweetly but unfortunately he and his son went fishing and didn't leave the bilge pump on it nearly sunk.

I have got the engine out

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I think the "marine" rocker cover did not have a pipe on it but did use an oil filler cap  that was vented and contained a gauze oil mist separator/flame trap. I don't think it matters much where you run the hoses to but I would not send them to a paper element type air cleaner and   a metal gauze/foam one is likely to drip oil, hence my recommending the milk bottle.

 

Be very wary about assuming anything petrol B type is suitable, it may or may not be.

 

Make absolutely sure that you clean the skew gear oil jet and its associated gauze strainer. If it clogs you wreck the camshaft and injector pump drive gears. One vertical and one horizontal hexagons below the rear most exhaust manifold port.

 

Fully agree with Biz (above) but if possible would try to get the latest "thick" side cover because it has a better oil mist separator. This is in no way urgent so its only if you come across one. I think  B series petrol one would fit but may have a different shaped pipe stuck out.

 

I never had any problem with the tensioner, wind it back so it locks, fit it and release. All perfectly standard (unlike the A series rubber bands!)

2 hours ago, BEngo said:

Though the B series didn't have the annoying A series thermostat bypass hose, nor was the flywheel on a (hard to remove) taper IIRC.

 

N

That comment is showing your youth! The inline A series had the normal flange and nut/stud, bolt & dowel fitting, just like the inline B series & diesel.

 

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Any advice would be gladly received 

I remember working on the petrol engine in my cars mg Morris minor traveller and A35 and a few others but that was a long time ago

3 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

I think the "marine" rocker cover did not have a pipe on it but did use an oil filler cap  that was vented and contained a gauze oil mist separator/flame trap. I don't think it matters much where you run the hoses to but I would not send them to a paper element type air cleaner and   a metal gauze/foam one is likely to drip oil, hence my recommending the milk bottle.

 

Be very wary about assuming anything petrol B type is suitable, it may or may not be.

 

Make absolutely sure that you clean the skew gear oil jet and its associated gauze strainer. If it clogs you wreck the camshaft and injector pump drive gears. One vertical and one horizontal hexagons below the rear most exhaust manifold port.

 

Fully agree with Biz (above) but if possible would try to get the latest "thick" side cover because it has a better oil mist separator. This is in no way urgent so its only if you come across one. I think  B series petrol one would fit but may have a different shaped pipe stuck out.

 

I never had any problem with the tensioner, wind it back so it locks, fit it and release. All perfectly standard (unlike the A series rubber bands!)

That comment is showing your youth! The inline A series had the normal flange and nut/stud, bolt & dowel fitting, just like the inline B series & diesel.

 

Can you show me these on drawing please

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4 minutes ago, les trickett said:

Any advice would be gladly received 

I remember working on the petrol engine in my cars mg Morris minor traveller and A35 and a few others but that was a long time ago

Can you show me these on drawing please

 

Short answer no because I do not have one or a manual. I am sure the manual will identify them and you will need that to get any torques you need. I seem to recall the sump screws have a torque.

 

Try here http://the-norfolk-broads.co.uk/downloads/bmc1500L-diesel-workshop-manual.pdf

 

The image on the front even shows them if you know what you are looking for.

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31 minutes ago, les trickett said:

Any advice would be gladly received 

I remember working on the petrol engine in my cars mg Morris minor traveller and A35 and a few others but that was a long time ago

Can you show me these on drawing please

I have coloured the hexagons you require red. Sorry, lousy image    taken off the manual

 

474103816_1.5NBMan2.jpg.b6053ebf1bd8ad03a45141fb586ce797.jpg

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Twas the A seiries engines in transverse cars, mini, 1100, ect ect that had the unusual flywheel and clutch pressure plate assembly taper fitted to the crankshaft with an offset locking key washer, tab washer and bolt. I still have the special 3 bolt puller somewhere.

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18 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

I have coloured the hexagons you require red. Sorry, lousy image    taken off the manual

 

474103816_1.5NBMan2.jpg.b6053ebf1bd8ad03a45141fb586ce797.jpg

Thank you Tony will take a look

They just need taking our cleaning and putting back

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17 hours ago, bizzard said:

Twas the A seiries engines in transverse cars, mini, 1100, ect ect that had the unusual flywheel and clutch pressure plate assembly taper fitted to the crankshaft with an offset locking key washer, tab washer and bolt. I still have the special 3 bolt puller somewhere.

I think I have found them .Injection pump driving gear lubricator and filter

7 minutes ago, les trickett said:

Thank you Tony will take a look

They just need taking our cleaning and putting back

I think I have found them .Injection pump driving gear lubricator and filter

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Unfortunately that picture has got reversed Tony!  You need to view it in a mirror. the Drive shaft and gear are on the port side of the engine under the exhaust rear manifold outlet.

 

Edited by Boater Sam
duplicated

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34 minutes ago, Boater Sam said:

Unfortunately that picture has got reversed Tony!  You need to view it in a mirror. the Drive shaft and gear are on the port side of the engine under the exhaust rear manifold outlet.

 

I know but its the best I could do quickly as the OP did not appear to have a manual and wanted us to provide a drawing.

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1 minute ago, Boater Sam said:

Don't guess, download the manual, its free at   https://www.scribd.com/doc/47711393/Bmc-Leyland-1500L-Diesel-Workshop-Manual

Don't guess, download the manual, its free at   https://www.scribd.com/doc/47711393/Bmc-Leyland-1500L-Diesel-Workshop-Manual

It's a free download in Tony's post above too

It's a free, downl - oh never mind

  • Haha 1

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7 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

I know but its the best I could do quickly as the OP did not appear to have a manual and wanted us to provide a drawing.

It's okay lads I am not completely dumb.

I have a lot of experience in mechanical,hydraulic,pneumatic  electronics and electrical maintenance I have been in engineering since I was 8 1/2 stood on an orange box working a ward 2 capstan with my old man.

I remember him having a engine sieze up in an old Morris post van. Just whipped the cylinder head off poured oil down the cylinders and gave them a good whack off it went again.

You have never lived until you came out of the pub and started your car on the handle.

Seriously though I really appreciate all the help you can give me as I am definitely not an expert on engines.

I am thinking of changing the timing chain and tensioner while the engine is out so any advice (detailed for the slow old guy).

Would be most welcome. 

All the very best.

Les Trickett 

 

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Much depends on when the engine was last properly looked at.  If it was not recently then I would be wanting a good investigate of everything from the sump up whilst the engine is out.  It may not be cheap, but sorting things in one go is usually cheaper than overhauling by installments. It is surely much less hassle!

 

I suggest:

Give the outside a good clean and paint.

Clean the sump internally and check the oil pump.

Remove main bearing caps one by one and check the shells.

Ditto big ends.

Check Camshaft bearings, followers etc for wear.

Ditto Rockers and shaft.

Check/clean skew gears etc.

General decoke and head fettle including valve grinding and injector seats/shields.

Clean out the glow plug holes and test glow plugs.

Check the bore wear.

Renew timing chain and tensioner, check the sprockets.

Check any lift pump.

Leave the injection pump alone unless the engine is running badly (it does not seem to be).

Get the injectors cleaned and re-set if not done recently

Check the starter motor and other ancillaries.

New oil and filters all round.

New belts all round.

N

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