PaulJ

Why not cut out a sort of huge washer-fitted between porthole glass and pigeon box- it wouldnt have to be particulary thick and would act as a glass retainer and something to seal to.

Ooops. Yep thats what I meant really

Assuming this murky water isnt coming from your cold water supply and that is clear. Brownish water does sound a bit rusty though? I got a suprising amount of scale out the bottom of my (not that old) calorifier a little while back. I removed the immersion from the bottom and vaccumed it all out. If you are in a soft water area there is not alot you can do about it- its same as your kettle :-)

I have the 2000SE - its ok and runs every thing other than my washing machine (which still uses the element to heat the water). I decided I was better off using this size generator and utilising the power assist on my Victron for the washing machine. I dont know how much the 3000 weighs but the 2000 is heavy enough-if you struggle to use the recoil then lugging it about may be a bit of a problem.

Goba has an 'interactive map' here https://www.goba.org.uk/main.php?section=The_Great_Ouse|Cruising_Info I couldnt get it to display properly on my phone though.

There you go- http://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/store/category/1882/product/hf-462.aspx

After 16 years your ply hasnt done too bad. I would use wbp ply again but give it several coats of West Epoxy before painting it. Will last even longer then

If its 40ft x 9ft I wouldnt have thought 50 hp was overkill (unless you are a bit throttle happy). Id guess at a 40hp 4 stroke being usable. But its just that- a guess.Id still rather spend my money on an inboard though. And a boat better suited to a canal :-D

Sorted! So All good☺

My low level vents are ducted to bilge , behind the linings, from the front cabin bulkhead (approx 8 inches above the front deck) instead of being in the front doors. All my ballast sits on blocks and there is a two inch air gap above the ballast with all the floor bearers running down the boat.Appliances like cookers/ fridges have air holes cut directly below them into the floor so constantly draw up the cooler air. Copper central heating pipes are run at floor level (but open to the bilges) and also draw air from the bilges when the heating is on. Been like that for some twenty odd years now and I have to say the bilges are probably the best bit of my boat and the only bit thats better than younger ones!

An interesting article. If you dont get a copy soon let me know- I should be able to either scan/pdf or send photo of article to you .

Well I for one wont be sitting this one out Apologies for being off topic but did you read the article on the Old Bedford river attempt in springs GOBA news? Thought this would interest you but cant remember where the post about this was...

Not so daft. Probably done so that you cant accidently run the charger off the inverter! Are you sure you dont just unplug the output on the inverter and plug that it into the shore power supply? Seen this done many times on boats lacking a changeover switch.

Rob-Them and me both I can confirm it is indeed as marked and is infact 82 degree. I put it in a mug with hot water and a digital thermometer before I fitted it in engine. Gauge on the engine runs at steady 80 degrees too. Bit of a result that- I would buy a spare but its a tad dear and I have measured it now I actually have one and will see if I can find anything the same.. Peter- thanks for that- I have heard several times Johno knows his stuff and am saving having to bother him until I get to the really important/technical bits Looks like the weather is turning out good for you- I am (despite having just got back from nearly a months cruising) envious

Hi Rob. Part number 945001. I was actually expecting a 60 degree stat (paperwork with it says its 55 degree!) as that was all they could get when I ordered it. But the 82 degree arrived instead. Bonus. So when you ordering one just check the part number is correct for the 82.. Hope all going well with your build . PJ

Cheers for that DW. Very useful for those with a limited shore supply. And as a bonus when the gas unexpectably runs out I could still run that off my inverter

Wont be of interest to many but I have just got my long awaited thermostat. I think it was Rob who mentioned that he was unable to get the correct temperature one ages ago. Sleeman have had some made and now have some in stock- about £60 odd inc postage! Ouch.

You could disconnect the wire from the sender to gauge to see if the needle drops first - but chances are as Frangar says its probably going to be neccessary to remove the sender. Deep joy

Thank you Alan you missed this though Edited 13 minutes ago by PaulJ Just reread your post- already tried that then..

Is the calorifier still full? Makes it easier. Can you (carefullyish) tap the end of spanner with a lump hammer ?

I hadnt seen that.Thanks. A really fantastic effort which I think Im more in awe than jealous of. Dont think Id fancy all that mud! Old Goat - there are indeed six manual guillotines. I even had the pleasure of doing the same one three times last saturday as I was following some selfish git who decided not to bother with lifting guillotines, dropping slackers etc as he travelled upstream to his moorings at Billing.

Flight reopened now

Way I heard it was that it is a precaution so as not to run any oil/ kerosene down the flight and cause any further contamination.

Flight is still locked at the bottom though-at least until the morning. Just spoke to a boater sat there 5 minutes ago who was told CRT are not running water down until then.

Yep- was a Saturday though so guess it will be the third! Filled and emptied at Northampton Marina in the end after a failed ascent of the flight