Eeyore

There is another possibility. The first photo shows that the brown ignition feed to the alternator has been rewired using a red cable, most likely due to a fault in the original brown cable. The three cables from the alternator plug are wrapped together in the loom, so the damage to the brown cable may have affected the black/blue strip cable at that time; but not enough to cause its failure straightaway. A photo showing some of the "redundant" cables might be helpful.

Sounds like a close call, glad to hear you are ok. let's tick off the obvious stuff so that others with more experience can get on with giving you advice. Chimney still in place. All vents clear. Ash bucket left outside. Seal between flue pipe and stove (fire cement or rope) intact. Seal between flue pipe and roof collar (fire cement or rope) intact.

Does this help? Even the latest type can still be folded back over the bell housing to the "common" location.

https://www.arc-components.com/automotive-key-switches.html Fourth one down, centre column; if you need one. It has a common key, so if you want a unique key you'll have to use one of the five position ones near the bottom of the page; just ignore the extra terminals. The five position one is also used on Vetus panels where you turn the key anti clockwise to stop the engine.

Pity the BBC couldn't manage a picture of the existing culvert under the embankment!!

I seem to recall that the rather complicated crankcase cover joint has some involvement in crankcase vacuum on the LPW/LPWS engines. A failed/poorly fitted gasket can raise crankcase pressure.

Has one of theirs on the last boat https://edwardianbedding.co.uk/narrowboat-mattresses/ Made to measure with a wide choice of internal construction.

A couple of weeks ago the brokerage phoned me about the survey the, then, prospective purchaser had payed for. All was as expected until they read the part about the large rust hole where the cabin side met the gunnel, estimated at £500 to repair. It was the drain from the former gas locker, now used for general storage, and still needing a drain.

I'll have to post the photos individually. Slacken where indicated and swing the alternator towards the engine to remove the belt. You will need to remove the other belt for access; similar arrangement, except that you might need two spanner's for the pivot bolt.

I have a Barrus 35 in the garage. I’ll get some photos later for you. It only has what you describe as the “upper belt” which goes around 3 pulleys (crank, water pump and alternator.). You will need to remove the “lower belt” as its in the way.

Thanks for all your replies, some interesting technical stuff for me to absorb.

Ahh, the joys of leaving your boat in the care of others. I'm strangely drawn to number 3 😏

I have a typical Vanette oven and hob installation as the only gas appliances on my 1996 boat. The gas locker was relocated about six years ago and all new pipework and fittings installed. Tested at install and on two subsequent Boat Safety examinations. The boat was dropped off at the brokerage mooring and, for the first time since the installation, the valve on the gas bottle was turned to the off position. There was certainly no smell of gas on the boat when I lifted the cabin bilge hatch as part of the pre sale tidy up. A month latter the surveyor opened the bottle valve, performed the leakage test, and pronounced that the oven was leaking. I guess I really am a lucky B*****d, but what could have failed simply as a result of isolating and then de isolating the supply?

3 cyl 1100cc diesel? Just put a additional split charge relay between the generators battery charging alternator and the domestic bank and run it in parallel with the existing mains charger. That will speed up the bulk phase a bit without excessive expenditure.

Is this one any use to you, it's 55mm dia. Located in Great Haywood.

I think about 10mm bigger, it was a while ago.

Been there, done that. Had the same thing on an LPW3 in our previous boat. After much faffing about I concluded that the 4PK belt in combination with a small alternator pulley just didn’t play nicely together for a short while after start up due to the high demand on the alternator. The solution was to fit a slightly larger pulley to the alternator to increase the “wrap” and thereby increase the contact area between the belt and pulley.

37 variants to choose from. https://www.prestolite-eu.com/pc/alternators/avi128/

And of course if it leaks you must (as most on here already know) NEVER use any metallic tool to remove the old seal; you'll damage the bore and it will leak forever. Remove the nut to remove the lever; be ready to catch the spring and ball. Hold a cloth over the hole and crank the engine over to allow the oil pressure to expel the seal.

Just to be optimistic, it could be a drive plate mounting bolt has come out of the flywheel.

New steps for the little project boat. Being a lazy person I cut these out of a 57 degree loft stair kit 🪚

I wondered why the engine itself wasn't moving about very much in your video; looks like the broken bracket is resting (wedged) on the timber bearers. There isn't a lot of space, and I wonder if the engine had been hitting the timber before the bracket broke? When repaired I would expect to see that part of the bracket going up at 45 deg to be much deeper, such that very little of the oil filter would be visible in the "after" image.