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spicemouse

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    St. Kilda

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  1. UPDATE 3: I'm trying to get the area looked at professionally and hopefully it'll not be as bad as anticipated. The rust appears to be due to overflow from the water tank, rather than any ingress. I'll be having the tank looked at too. In the meantime I'm planning on blocking up the hole from the cabin to the water tank. This should avoid any repeat of the Great Flood. My plan is to place a sheet of acrylic over the hole and seal it with CT1. This will allow me to see if the water gets above the hole when I fill the tank. The hole I'm planning on covering is the one circled in red below: My questions now: 1) is this a good idea? 2) should there be a breather installed? Thanks!
  2. Think I'll go return the coach bolts. Got files, fitting, drills & impact driver.. shouldn't be too hard.
  3. As title. I'm looking to switch from external padlocks to internal bolts. As I can't weld, my options are either coach bolts (not sure how the square section works with steel doors) or pop-rivets. As with most things on the boat, my initial ideas are often not the best and searching here has already yielded many opinions on this sort of thing. I don't expect anyone to tell me how exactly they secure their hatches, all I'm looking for is advice on the best way to secure latches to the inside of steel doors. Thanks!
  4. Oh goodness no, I want someone who knows what they are doing to fix that!
  5. I worry mostly that it extends down below the level of the ballast
  6. Update 2: I've spent the last few days drying out the area, and it doesn't seem like any water is coming through. Still a little moist, but certainly no standing water now. I suspect the water was coming from the drying iron and concrete (and originally from the overflowing water tank). Does this rust still worry you lot? It worries me!
  7. UPDATE: I'm back aboard today after my 2nd covid jab yesterday 💉🎉 Only a few mm of water present after 24h and the concrete is drying nicely. I'll keep vacuuming the standing water, and I'll get the stove on later. Still need to drain the water tank.
  8. Yeah, I'm not super happy with all the cement, but there also isn't much I can do about it. To remove it is have to basically rebuild the interior.
  9. The section was overplating yes. Bottom is in a separate section. It's newer steel, 5.4 - 6mm thickness.
  10. Hammered the iron parts. Seems like all of it to me.
  11. No, I tried with my phone yesterday and the angle make it very hard to see anything. Looks like an open space such leads me to think the stainless steel tank is a lie, and I have an integral tank. Than hole being an overflow(?). I plan to keep it hovered if it fills and use my stove the try dry or all out a bit. I did wonder if it could just drying out. Fingers crossed eh.
  12. I'm quite close to them, so I'll give them a ring on Monday. Thanks! My full pre-purchase survey did suggest the section of overplating that was carried out. The rest of the hull was reported as good.
  13. The survey did note the poured concrete yes. Survey also recommended a small section of overplating around the area in question, which was carried out as part of the work pre-sale. There aren't many yards around here, I'm heading for London right now. Other than asking if they know what to do with iron hulls, is there anything I could ask them?
  14. Currently just north of Hemel Hempstead. Hull survey didn't pick up anything bad.. 😞
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