Ex Brummie

A scrap yard I use insists it must have name ,address etc, and pay by cheque. They are also a cheque cashing agency and will cash your cheque for a commission!!!!!

All the talk about adjusting flow rates reminds me of the advice from BM who used to make most of the O.C.V's used on Agas, Rayburns and many continental stoves, who said the main problem with these controls was the nut on the end of the screwdriver. Adjustment should only be made with an open discharge into a measuring cup, after ensuring the supply pipework is clear. Most boats do not have a satisfactory flue for a vaporising burner to run consistently. You need it double skinned outside the boat, with a Swedish type cowl to minimise back draught AND excessive draw. Apart from cleaning the pot and air holes, you need to ensure the pot joint, flue connections and doors/ sight glass joints need to be sound. Ingress of air through these means that there is less combustion air coming in the burner pot. Another problem can be caused by filters, as many boat installations do not have sufficient head in the supply to overcome the resistance of a filter element. If using a Crosland type , it is better to remove the element and use the empty bowl. At such low flow rates, impurities drop to the bottom and so does water that would normally make the filter even more restrictive. The bowl can be cleaned periodically. When lighting, a small piece of tissue or wick will help by providing vapour which more readily lights than neat fuel.

I did mean extend pipework within the area of the calorie, with a drain away under gravity.

Extend the outlet from the calorifier and mount the PRV so that the drain falls. This will preclude the opportunity for standing water to freeze and stop the operation.

Most freshwater pumps now say an accumulator is not necessary, but with the relatively small volume of water in a boat system, it will mean the pump will cycle quickly, and if there is the slightest leak, then the pump will 'pulse'. If you have a multipoint, this will impair the operation; very annoying in the shower. Also, if you get up in the night and fancy a cup of tea, you will disturb others who are sleeping. Identify the insomniac with a 15 lt accumulator.

If I have a minimal leak on a gas supply pipe, I know that what fails on a 10mm pipe may well pass on a 15mm pipe.

If it is flow rate, then you could install an iso valve and turn it down. What problem is it causing? If it is only splashing into a basin or sink, then don't turn the tap on full.

You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need! Look at your expectations, look at your charging capacity. Settle for something in between.

A hot water system that combines a calorifier with a multipont won't pass BSS.

After 4 years, I stopped keeping receipts as it scared me witless. I don't count the receipts at home, nor with the car, except in that case, I evaluate each significant expenditure at the time, and drop it if I think it excessive. As the boat gets older, obviously costs increase, but you weigh up the benefits vs costs and take your choice. Unlike many, I don't count my boat as an asset in the strict sense of the word, reasoning I have had its value in enjoyment. When the time comes I can no longer afford it or manage it, then whatever I get will be a bonus, and I'll still have the memories.

Judging by the injector size, the heater will use about 4% of a fridge usage. When I had a gas fridge and a multipoint with the pilot on 24/7, a 13kg bottle lasted about 2 weeks.. Replacing the gas fridge with electric stretched the bottle to 6-7 weeks. For the times you need to run the engine for hot water whilst moored, I reckon the pilot light wins, as you have hot water whenever you need it. I can moor in the summer for a couple of days with impunity and no engine, as solar keeps the batteries topped up. Those with calorifiers will be running their engines the morning after a day cruising, and again in the evening. What price gas vs diesel and shortened service intervals. Turning off the pilot is OK if swmbo can manage without hot water without thought.

Is the diaphragm too tight across the switch? If it is, then when you open the tap, the diaphragm will still hold the switch closed. Try reseating the diaphragm a little slacker.

How many people cannot understand why their boat has been seen in the same place whilst it has been somewhere totally different. If I were to call my boat by a name and number, and only paint that number on it, will the tablet recognise there is an anomaly?

CaRT have an excess of supply. The demand does not want to pay for it.

Your problem is almost certainly down to a poor draw through the pot. Lengthening the flue and insulating it outside (double skinned chimney) will help, but also make sure the pot and door seal is sound, and the draught stabiliser is closing fully.

If you've turned the flow down to get hot water in cold weather, your pump is probably pulsing as the pressure keeps building up with the low flow. If you have an accumulator, check the pressure is not too high. If you don't have one, then fit one.

The original Queen Elizabeth was rebuilt about 8 years ago. Can you remember the Worcs -B/ham canal was diverted to make way for it.

Judging from your picture, you are not young enough to be born in the QE2, it was only built 8 years ago. I am ex because I no longer live there, but still admit to my roots. My statement was that London smogs REDUCED WITH USE OF OEN FIRES. i.e as the use of open fires reduced, so did the smogs. My statement re open doors ad poor seals is based on personal observations in other peoples boats, and maintenance work carried out in my professional capacity.

It is no coincidence that London smogs declined with the use of open fires, so why shouldn't the increase of solid fires have a reverse effect now? The article is factually correct, and the importance of ensuring they are only operated with the doors closed. It also stressed the importance of keeping chimneys clean, and ensuring adequate ventilation for combustion air. The reliance on adventitious ventilation can cause incomplete combustion and allow CO to collect within the room. Particularly on boats, many rely on scavenged wood which is rarely allowed to season, and is mainly stored in areas which cannot let it dry, which adds to the pollution. Also, boat chimneys are rarely tall enough to encourage the optimum draught to ensure complete combustion. They are also often installed without consideration for the relevant regulations (in houses and/or boats), and many are operated with open doors, or very worn door seals.

If it only runs for a second, I doubt if you have an accumulator. Most pump instructions now say an accumulator is not necessary, but fitting one is advantageous. You only need the slightest weep on a tap washer to give you the problem you have.

I have a 20amp Hilka charger commoned up with my solar panel. As I only spend occasional nights on the boat, and switch the charger on then, I have no problem. Liveaboards obviously have much greater demands than me, and no doubt push to the hilt, but if you have a reasonably sized harger commonred with solar, then it should work. Of course, people always look to get the best possible output for the least possible input. Don't push the limits andyou will be O.K.

As a Telford resident, I'm Hithering and hothering about who to put in a freedom of info request as to how much freight has been handled in the Donnoington facility. As it is at the mid point of a single track, how effective can it ever be?

Whilst out in the summer, I had a problem with airlocking in the fuel line. After the first one, I checked all connections, but 4 days later it happened again. This time, I could see the signs of slight seepage from the swaged end going into the lift pump. Calling in to a boatyard, they ground off the swaged clamp, leaving the connectors intact, and replaced the hose with compliant hose and jubilee clips. Closer inspection of the failed hose showed it had started to crack around the end in the clamp. This had allowed the lift pump to suck in air which eventually reached the water trap and stopped the engine. Not nice when going upstream on the northern Thames!!! A quick check that can be made on swaged connections is to try and turn the connecting pipe in the hose. If it turns, change it.

If your pump is gravity fed from the tank and has no valve, I would fit one sharpish. This is imperative if you are leaving the boat in winter, as any freeze on the pump, ( and they are particularly susceptible to frost) could leave you with a burst inside the boat that will fill your bilges. My water tank is top outlet, so if any burst or leak occurs, there is no head of water.

My conventionally greased stern gland only requires a turn at the end of each day, has only needed repacking twice in 29 years, and is still leak free.A small tub of Morris grease lasts around 2 years with 10-12 weeks cruising at least each year. The Aquadrive correctly installed obviously is well worth the original cost. With the amount of grit in the mud you stir up, I would be very wary of water lubricated stern glands.