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Tom Richmond

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About Tom Richmond

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    Lighting Designer

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  1. 24v dimmable LEDs

    Sadly not. It is feeding a few sections of lighting track, in which I intend to be able to switch out fittings.
  2. 24v dimmable LEDs

  3. 24v dimmable LEDs

  4. 24v dimmable LEDs

    But that's the type I have! Doesn't work with my 10-24v bulbs... Perhaps then I just need alternative 10-24v?
  5. 24v dimmable LEDs

    Hi. As per title really... looking for 24v dimmable LED bulbs. Both mr16 and g4 capsule bulbs. All the bulbs I have on the boat at the moment are 10-30v, which obviously don't respond to a dimmer (which outputs are varied voltage!) I can't seem to find any fixed voltage 24v ones. Obvious other route is to use 12v and use a voltage dropper. I already have a 40A victron unit installed, but due to standby current it gets switched off when not in use. Don't really want to route lights through it... so I'd be looking at a low power dropper just for the dimmer circuit, it's just messy. Any leads appreciated.
  6. Water pump quieting

    Interesting stuff! Thanks all. I have some old bits of rubber window seal, think I will give them a go... I'm gonna try to semi suspend the pump on the rubber strips, so going half way to the wire rope cradle approach, but in rubber. Will try to report back with a pic.
  7. Backboiler question

    Well, in line with the incline of your pipework?
  8. Backboiler question

    You make the holes on each side of the cupboard at different heights
  9. Backboiler question

    Kitchen cupboards are no problem. Hole saw will fix them in a second. I would go gravity if I were you. Much more elegant.
  10. Backboiler question

    I am using a jabsco ecocirc. Not cheap, but widely agreed to be very efficient. I got mine from Mack Engineering, cheapest place I have found for pumps... It is rated to draw 1.7a, but has a variable speed setting. I run mine on about 2 (out of 5) and it draws less than half an amp. My inverter standby load is more than the pump... Obviously pump also does not run all the time... I could run in on the lowest speed as it still shifts the coolant, but it is so quiet that I can't hear it, and i like to hear it coming on to know everything is working right. I went for a pumped system because I do not have a straight run between all my rads (mostly I have a doorway in the side of the boat which pipework needs to pass beneath). It was relatively cheap and easy to run plastic push fit plumbing to all rads, so you can offset the saving in thick copper against significant cost of the pump. Disadvantage is that if the pump fails you have no way of moving the coolant and it will boil. Need to ensure you have a feed and expansion tank close to stove so that this can happen relatively safely. I am lucky that my stove is a rayburn in the kitchen and my feed and expansion tank sits over the sink (and yes, it has boiled a few times as I have been working the system out...)
  11. Water pump quieting

    Hose connected to plastic plumbing. Loosened the mounts. Earplugs are not a bad idea...
  12. Water pump quieting

    Just fired up my water system have g finally installed basin and connected final tap. The pump is a jabsco par max 3.5, mounted on an 18mm birch ply bulkhead. It's loud. It's very loud. It's too loud. It is mounted with it's little rubber spacers, I tried today to mount it off the 18mm on a little 'bridge' but it made no difference. The bulkhead is just acting like a massive soundboard. It is tiled on the reverse side, but this does little to deaden the sound. I am wondering about some kind of sound insulation, but it's tricky cos the back of the board is covered in plumbing! Any bright ideas?
  13. Backboiler question

    Having just installed a pumped radiator system in my boat, I can confirm that rads come with 1/2 bsp female threaded inlets and outlets, and therefore can easily be connected to without proprietary valves. Any 1/2bsp threaded fitting will work (nb: 15mm compression uses 1/2bsp thread so you could use a normal 15mm fitting without the olive and collar. Reason for smaller pipe in the diagram is mostly dictated by the inlet size on the rads (as indicated above, 15mm is ideal) but also, even if total flow from backboiler is through 28mm pipe, each rad only uses a portion of that flow, so 15mm should be adequate. Lastly, 15mm much easier to make fiddly connections to rads, and can be made to look much nicer.
  14. Victron "VE.bus" connecting

    Hmmm. Thanks a lot. Anyone with the USB cable fancy lending it to me? I'm moored near Bristol, but I guess it could be posted? (Cheeky ask, but I figure it's worth trying!) Tom
  15. Victron "VE.bus" connecting

    Hi there. I have a victron easysolar 24/1600. I want to connect to a pc to use the VE.configure software. I also have a multi control panel which I want to connect. I purchased a generic network cable (cat6, but works as cat 5 as well, it says on packet) but cannot get the easysolar talking to either the pc or the panel. Victron have a proprietary USB interface, (for £60!) I wonder if the pc will only connect with this? I am confused by specs in the manual... Anyone wuth similar set up or experience of able to help me?