

BEngo
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Everything posted by BEngo
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Someone will be along to correct this if I'm wrong, but I think 'New Dawn' is the replica cuckoo boat being built on the Chesterfield and Python is the canal society's historic ex-working-boat which is used for publicity and work parties on the canal. That is also having some work done following an interesting leak. There are threads on the boards about both IIRC. N
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Get up early and look? N
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Flexible drive shaft coupling? Someone will recognise exactly what it is. N
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Another example of the Whyatt maintenance strategy. Ignore all leaks even if they are reported regularly and they have to run water to make the pound navigable, you never know they might go away.. JW was full of bullsh!t about Section 106 money and other charidee income paying for bank-edge improvements, but like everything else that was all he ever delivered. Good Luck BWML! N
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Cover them with Vaseline or the stuff that is used to treat Barbours. Both provide good temporary protection and wash off with a little paraffin or white spirit. N
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Its James Walker Inca. BS7531 Grade Y, if that means anything. http://www.jameswalker.biz/products/31-Inca says it is suitable for potable water up to 85 C. I have used it with no problems for water pipe flange joints. PM me with an address if you would like some posted. N
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I have a goodly supply of 2mm gasket material. How big a bit do you need? N
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I was thinking of a hospital silencer but...
BEngo replied to Psycloud's topic in Boat Building & Maintenance
Undo the union where your 110 is. Hold the left hand nut, turn the big one top towards you. A big blowlamp may help. Then warm up the joint to the left of the "silencer" and rotate same till it comes undone. Follow along pipework. A FOBIG Stilson may help. The hole in the manifold id supposed to have a cooling water outlet/inlet, and I suspect that water cooling the manifold has been done away with. You may be able to get a replacement. N -
What is the thickest grease you can get or....
BEngo replied to rubblequeen's topic in Boat Equipment
All the information you never needed before: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NLGI_consistency_number N -
Looks like an A127 to me. N
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Ritzy method: Two four-bolt threaded flanges from your local pipeline center. One on the inside, one on the outside. Good gasket material between each flange and the roof. Screw a suitable chimney support into the outside flange. Other method. Weld a suitable piece of pipe into the roof. Barrel Nipples are good. Connect the exhaust plumbing to that with a union. Weld a stub on the outside if you need a larger pipe to support your chimney. N
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Batteries - How do I check if they need replacing
BEngo replied to Woodstock's topic in Boat Equipment
There are usually two varieties of each common battery shape, varying only in the terminal layout. If you look at the Shield battery website, for example, www.shieldbatteries.co.uk/uploads/shield_leisure_m.pdf they will tell you which way round the terminal posts are and whether they are SAE type stumpy cones, threaded studs (in various sizes) or even Ford-type lugs. some batteries come with both SAE and threaded stud types. IMO the best are the threaded studs with corresponding crimped terminals on the battery cables. That way the minimum number of connections are involved. N -
Batteries - How do I check if they need replacing
BEngo replied to Woodstock's topic in Boat Equipment
Thank you. It's not a battery murderer then so it's not the fridge that is eating the power. Next step- the numbers! N -
Batteries - How do I check if they need replacing
BEngo replied to Woodstock's topic in Boat Equipment
Does your fridge make a noise when it is running? N -
Batteries - How do I check if they need replacing
BEngo replied to Woodstock's topic in Boat Equipment
Woodstock. If you can: Charge the batteries till your indicator says they are full. Switch off the charger and main switch and wait at least 6 hours. Test the battery voltage with a decent multimeter (ideally a digital one with two numbers after the decimal point.) Tell us what it reads. Switch the charger and main switch on again If not: Charge the batteries to full. Switch off the charger. Wait an hour, using the boat normally with the fridge on 12V etc. Switch off the main switch and wait another hour. Test the battery voltage with a decent multimeter. Tell us what it reads. Switch on the charger and main switch. A Hydrometer is also useful, if you can get one that you can read to 3 dcecimal places What sort of two-way fridge have you? if it is the two-way Electrolux they are real battery murderers and are really only meant to be on 12V when the engine is running and on 240v hook-up the rest of the time. N -
LW piston rings (but not the pistons) will also fit a Kelvin J. Pelapone was an acronym from Prudence Electric Light And Power Our New Engine. Originally in Wakefield than moved to Derby. AFAIK the Pelapone D22 has BDN 8S1 nozzles, same as MtB's Glennifer should have. N
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A small brazing rod bent into a circle is also a good way to fix them and the rod doesn't go rusty if it gets damp. N
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Why not use it as the starter for the Glennifer? N
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There probably is, but it will be too big for a boat, horrendously expensive and so wrapped up with safety devices that it will be wholly unreliable. N
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All this precision measurement is very well, but what is the conversion factor for Pounds Feet into white knuckles? And how tight is 'make the bolts very tight' as expressed by a Mr Bergius as desirable when tightening cylinder head bolts? N
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Do not feed an instant gas water heater with hot water. You are likely to get boiling water and/or steam out of the heater with bad results for the heat exchanger even if you don't scald yourself. A suitable arrangement of manual valves is the usual solution. Blue String Pudding started the most recent thread on this IIRC. Your set-up looks OK apart from the fed from the calorifier to the gas boiler. The pump is more usually in the cool return near the stove. A Tee valve would go where the lower bend in the orange line is with another feed from the cold water pump. N
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Don't go mad with belt tension- have it just tight enough to drive the alternator and keep a careful eye on the water pump bearings and seal. They are the bits that are likely to not want to go round twice as fast. You can check the bearings by trying to wobble the pump pulley -if it does move the bearings are not going to last long. the seal going will be shown by a drip of water from behind the pulley. N
- 49 replies
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- Pulleys
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Window tape is either butyl sealant on a plasticky backing strip so its easy to handle or a closed cell foam tape with a self-adhesive back.. The foam stuff is good provided the window surround and bedding area are flat. Butyl is good at gap filling but m can be messier than tape. If you want Butyl it can be bought in gun-tubes- they tend to be the larger size tubes. Google Seamseal CV. It's non setting and squeezes out nicely. N
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For maximum effectiveness, an accumulator should be pressurised to the pump cut-in pressure or very slightly above. The easiest way to set-up an accumulator is as follows: Pressurise it to about 10 psi or a few psi below the expected cut-in pressure. Run the pump until it switches off. Measure the pressure in the accumulator with tyre pressure gauge. This is the cut off pressure. Turn a tap on slowly A sort of fast drip is OK. As soon as the pump cuts in switch off both the tap and the pump. A bit of practice and an assistant may be needed. Measure the pressure in the accumulator, this is the cut-in pressure. Run the tap with the pump off until the water stops. Re-pressurise the accumulator to 1 psi greater than the measured cut-in pressure. Turn off the taps, switch on the pump, vent any air in the pipes. Jobs a gooddun. N
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Good stuff. Brilliant White Milliput has been hiding the chip in the base of our house shower tray for about 5 years now. The repair is pretty well invisible and I have had no trouble with it. N