BEngo

All the information you never needed before: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NLGI_consistency_number N

Looks like an A127 to me. N

Ritzy method: Two four-bolt threaded flanges from your local pipeline center. One on the inside, one on the outside. Good gasket material between each flange and the roof. Screw a suitable chimney support into the outside flange. Other method. Weld a suitable piece of pipe into the roof. Barrel Nipples are good. Connect the exhaust plumbing to that with a union. Weld a stub on the outside if you need a larger pipe to support your chimney. N

There are usually two varieties of each common battery shape, varying only in the terminal layout. If you look at the Shield battery website, for example, www.shieldbatteries.co.uk/uploads/shield_leisure_m.pdf they will tell you which way round the terminal posts are and whether they are SAE type stumpy cones, threaded studs (in various sizes) or even Ford-type lugs. some batteries come with both SAE and threaded stud types. IMO the best are the threaded studs with corresponding crimped terminals on the battery cables. That way the minimum number of connections are involved. N

Thank you. It's not a battery murderer then so it's not the fridge that is eating the power. Next step- the numbers! N

Does your fridge make a noise when it is running? N

Woodstock. If you can: Charge the batteries till your indicator says they are full. Switch off the charger and main switch and wait at least 6 hours. Test the battery voltage with a decent multimeter (ideally a digital one with two numbers after the decimal point.) Tell us what it reads. Switch the charger and main switch on again If not: Charge the batteries to full. Switch off the charger. Wait an hour, using the boat normally with the fridge on 12V etc. Switch off the main switch and wait another hour. Test the battery voltage with a decent multimeter. Tell us what it reads. Switch on the charger and main switch. A Hydrometer is also useful, if you can get one that you can read to 3 dcecimal places What sort of two-way fridge have you? if it is the two-way Electrolux they are real battery murderers and are really only meant to be on 12V when the engine is running and on 240v hook-up the rest of the time. N

LW piston rings (but not the pistons) will also fit a Kelvin J. Pelapone was an acronym from Prudence Electric Light And Power Our New Engine. Originally in Wakefield than moved to Derby. AFAIK the Pelapone D22 has BDN 8S1 nozzles, same as MtB's Glennifer should have. N

A small brazing rod bent into a circle is also a good way to fix them and the rod doesn't go rusty if it gets damp. N

Why not use it as the starter for the Glennifer? N

There probably is, but it will be too big for a boat, horrendously expensive and so wrapped up with safety devices that it will be wholly unreliable. N

All this precision measurement is very well, but what is the conversion factor for Pounds Feet into white knuckles? And how tight is 'make the bolts very tight' as expressed by a Mr Bergius as desirable when tightening cylinder head bolts? N

Do not feed an instant gas water heater with hot water. You are likely to get boiling water and/or steam out of the heater with bad results for the heat exchanger even if you don't scald yourself. A suitable arrangement of manual valves is the usual solution. Blue String Pudding started the most recent thread on this IIRC. Your set-up looks OK apart from the fed from the calorifier to the gas boiler. The pump is more usually in the cool return near the stove. A Tee valve would go where the lower bend in the orange line is with another feed from the cold water pump. N

Don't go mad with belt tension- have it just tight enough to drive the alternator and keep a careful eye on the water pump bearings and seal. They are the bits that are likely to not want to go round twice as fast. You can check the bearings by trying to wobble the pump pulley -if it does move the bearings are not going to last long. the seal going will be shown by a drip of water from behind the pulley. N

Window tape is either butyl sealant on a plasticky backing strip so its easy to handle or a closed cell foam tape with a self-adhesive back.. The foam stuff is good provided the window surround and bedding area are flat. Butyl is good at gap filling but m can be messier than tape. If you want Butyl it can be bought in gun-tubes- they tend to be the larger size tubes. Google Seamseal CV. It's non setting and squeezes out nicely. N

For maximum effectiveness, an accumulator should be pressurised to the pump cut-in pressure or very slightly above. The easiest way to set-up an accumulator is as follows: Pressurise it to about 10 psi or a few psi below the expected cut-in pressure. Run the pump until it switches off. Measure the pressure in the accumulator with tyre pressure gauge. This is the cut off pressure. Turn a tap on slowly A sort of fast drip is OK. As soon as the pump cuts in switch off both the tap and the pump. A bit of practice and an assistant may be needed. Measure the pressure in the accumulator, this is the cut-in pressure. Run the tap with the pump off until the water stops. Re-pressurise the accumulator to 1 psi greater than the measured cut-in pressure. Turn off the taps, switch on the pump, vent any air in the pipes. Jobs a gooddun. N

Good stuff. Brilliant White Milliput has been hiding the chip in the base of our house shower tray for about 5 years now. The repair is pretty well invisible and I have had no trouble with it. N

Look at the oil on all dispsticks. If it's only 39 hours hold it should still be pretty light coloured (some carbon in the engine oil, much less darkening in the gearbox). See what the compression feels like on the 'andle. It should come up pretty solid on both cylinders without much speed of wind. Listen for gurgles and hissing as it hits compression. Not much else I can think of, especially since it's had a DeVilbiss rebuild! N

Putting synthetic oil in an old engine is a waste of money. These oils are designed for tasks where ordinary mineral oils can't hack it, even with lots of additives. There are no conditions like that in old engines. There are few conditions like that in most inland boat engines really. High-speed turbocharged lumpy water boat engines might, but even then I'd save my cash unless the manufacturer specifically recommended a synthetic or semi-synthetic oil. The seal thing is uncertain- most older engines tend to have simple fibre, 'paper' or cork gasket type seals with throwers at the crankcase so are not really that vulnerable. N

Not true. Mineral Oils are graded by SAE according to their measured viscosity at 100 C. Higher numbers mean higher viscosities. The range runs from 0 to 60. Mineral Oil viscosity decreases as the temperature rises so any SAE xx oil is less viscous (thinner) at 100 C than it is at room temperature and thicker at 0 C than it is at room temperature. This is inconvenient because hot, thinner oil may not cut the lubricating mustard in a highly loaded engine . So the oil industry invented multi-grade oils. These behave a bit like two different oils and are given two designations SAE 20W/50 The W in an SAE oil designation refers to its viscosity at a cold temperature (usually 0 C.) So an SAE 20W/50 has the same viscosity at 0 C as an SAE 20 oil would have at that temperature and the same viscosity as a 50 grade oil would have at 100C. This is achieved by adding viscosity Index improvers. "Straight" oil is mineral oil with no additives. Rare as rocking horse poo these days. The term is often used wrongly to describe single grade oils. Single grade oils have no viscosity index improvers but they do have a whole cocktail additives ranging through anti- wear additives, anti oxidants, detergents, anti-foaming additives and so on, depending on the market requirement and the ingenuity of the oil chemist.. The same additives can be found in multi-grade oils. The purpose of detergents is to keep the internal parts of the engine as clear of sludge as possible by holding the sludge in suspension in the oil. The expectation is that the oil filter will the catch the suspended sludge and the oil can go round again and collect some more. Where filtration is poor, or non-existent, as in many old designs of marine engine detergent oils are a bad thing as the sludge suspension is abrasive and accelerates the wear on bearings and other sliding surfaces. Old engines therefore need low detergent oil so that the sludge can fall out of the oil in the sump or oil tank for dry-sump engines. To give the oil enough time to settle out the sludge old/low filtration engines tend to have larger oil capacities than is strictly necessary for lubrication or cooling purposes. I know a little about aircraft piston engines, and suspect that the single grade oil in the OP's example was simply one which contained less anti-wear additives and more of the specialist ones which promote running-in. Once run-in a multi-grade would then be used to ease cold-starting. Most oil companies produced a running-in oil and once upon a time new cars were delivered filled with one of them. This went out of fashion once manufacturing could produce surface finishes and finish tolerances that were similar to those of a run-in engine. Synthetic oils are something completely other. N

If you are concerned that a lot of water will come in when you dismantle the seal put a good dollop of ordinary grease on a plastic bag and , working through the weed hatch, wind it round the shaft outside the hull. That will form a temporary seal and slow the ingress of water, but remember to remove it once the inside seal is back in place. N

Gunwash thinners removes lacquer. Removes paint as wellso best used with the mushrooms off. Amway Metal Cleaner or Barkeepers Friend are both good at removing tarnish, but only get the vents clean, not really shiny. Brasso will soon bring them up, if you do them daily. N

The M6 Crosses the Bridgewater at Thelwall and that's a good spot to do at least the prep and undercoats - It's free too. N

An intake air cleaner and a good exhaust silencer will be step one. Next, don't forget some anti-vibration mountings and a flexible pipe in the exhaust and the fuel pipes to deaden transmitted sound. A good solid ply box lined with sound absorbent material is step three Then, ideally you need to baffle the cooling air inlets and outlets to the box so that there is no direct sound path from inside to out. The faces of the baffles should be be coated with sound absorbing material. It makes for a big box! N

SAE 30 won't do it any harm. Don't use modern high detergent stuff- look for API CC on the tin. It might make for more difficult starting on a frosty morning though. If so, use the decompressor to ease the load on the starter. Morris's sell a suitable SAE20. Loads of places and good pubs to visit on your planned route, just ask as you are going along. N