atsoft22

Hi Peter, Just wondering what make of stove and what size and type of back boiler it has ? I need to Do a similar thing with my 60x10 widebeam as the 5KW stove with 2Kw slab BB installed by manufacturer is woefully inadequate, even on full burn. Regards Andy

Those connectors can get loose and unplug themselves when they get old, as I have discovered. The tape is probably there to hold the 2 half's of the connector together. It's also possible water has got into the Tacho itself. If the connector doesn't fix the problem I would suggest u remove Tacho from binnacle and take apart to dry and reseal.

Update: For people also thinking of washing machines. Got a kit of parts off Sterling to upgrade the MSW to PSW. Worked a treat. Bought the Candy Aqua 100F. does what it says on the tin, no problems whatsoever. Recently I have bought a new(er) boat with similar setup (Victron 3KW PSW invertor)and bought another washing machine. This time a high street model Candy Grand O comfort. 6Kg Machine but quite shallow. Also works a treat. Advantage to this boat is that its fitted with a Beta Marine with 2 alternators, the domestic one being 175Amps ! (almost keeps up with the current draw )

They just need to find someone like you and me that have a quality crimper and can make them leads Btw, my leads are like your 'New' ones. I don't see the point of them being any different. And curiously the same make of batteries too

I agree with your thinking. I.e. custom fit the cables to be as short as practically possible. SLA's will be on boat for 2 to 3 years maybe and won't be touched until that are done. (unless they are flooded, then maybe they'll need a topup..... mmmmm maybe that's why?) p.s. I've seem many (50+ mostly new/nearly new) boats (including the boat I just bought)with these giant loops on them. It's almost like they use 'Standard' ready made cables.

Loops don't help with balancing between batteries unless the individual battery wires are going to a 'star' point, where they should all be the same length. For normal parallel battery arrangements Keeping them all the same length,but short as possible, is the goal. The bigger the unnecessary loop the more resistance and any consequential effects. There's a really good article on one of the threads about this very subject. Optimum way to wire batteries to balance the load is using a 'star' point but direct parallel with outputs from opposite ends is the next best option. My thinking is that its the fat finger syndrome. Make the cables really long, then you can route them out of the way of everything and make it really easy to remove batteries without having to undo anything.... or some such thinking

Yes, but you have a reason for looping, because you have batteries that have end posts and looping is the only way to connect them...

A bit of slack, yes, but twice the length it needs to be, surely not?

A quick question for the forum... Given that the goal for interconnecting batteries (and Low voltage/high current wiring generally) is to keep the cable runs as short as absolutely possible, why is it that boat Electricians always insist on putting big cable 'loops' between batteries? Whilst I appreciate its important to wire up batteries correctly with cables of appropriate length to make sure system is as balanced as possible, this really doesn't make any sense to me. Also marine quality 70MM2 cabling is expensive, so why use more than you need? I could see you would need a small amount of slack to allow for 'movement' but having them twice the length needed ? Any thoughts ?

You could possibly put a split charge diode on battery side of Tracer, however I'm not sure what that will do to the Tracers Battery sense (i.e. how it will charge. Nearly full starter battery v 1/2 discharged domestics... Not sure that's very healthy ). Is the Start battery same capacity and type as the Domestic's? Note:- I do wish the Tracer had a separate temperature and Battery sense input. The Tracer can get very confused when the voltage wobbles around due to current induced voltage drops(and is made worse when the batteries are knackered) another thing to note, is that the current displayed by the Remote is not at all accurate and can jump around all over the place even though the actual current flow is as steady as a rock. I've used a calibrated clamp meter to verify and there is at least a 10% error... although difficult to judge accurately given the stability of the tracer remote. I suggest use the remote as a 'its working' option only. I Have fitted these units to several boats and they all behave similarly.

That'll give me the RPM I need. Excellent. I guess the 48mm Pulley will be able to transmit the power ? John and Adrian are the Techies at Beta ? I'll let you know the outcome tomorrow. Thanks again.

Yes I got the stuff. Ty V much. I'm with you on the 2 alternators solution. It makes more logical sense to me. Will spend some time with Beta on Monday and see what can be offered. Got no sense out of them last time, but I have some clearer questions to ask now, so will give it a go.

Thanks Steve, I really appreciate all this advise. I Currently run a single Alternator without issue, as you know from this thread, and uprating what I have, as per your suggestion, may be a good option. The down side to that is I have a Stirling Alternator to battery thingy which is only rated to 80A and also does the split charge, so I need to factor that into the equation too

To be clear, you are suggesting I get a single 100A alternator +Water pump pulley + Crankshaft pulley from Beta ? If that's a straightforward solution, then I'm surprised Beta themselves didn't offer it ? I'll call them on Monday and see how much it all is.

Be nice if I could do bottom right....