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Member Since 04 Apr 2011
Offline Last Active Today, 12:00 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Zanussi ZWC1301C Washer conundrum

Today, 12:00 AM

For 7 years we've had a ZWC1300C washer which happily run from either our Onan pure sine wave generator or from a Victron 3000 combo with engine running with no problems. The drum bearing failed so we bought the current replacement, the ZWC1301C.

This works fine from the generator but on the inverter it will wash and pump out but not rinse or spin. It seems to get to that point and then the drum just moves back and forth with a dribble of water coming from the drain. If you open the door, the wash is hot but still with some detergent in it. Change the programme to Rinse & Spin and it will rinse normally and pump out but not spin. Switch it to spin and it will spin up to full speed of 1300rpm.

On the old machine this happened once when I programmed the inverter to the energy saving mode. Programming the mode out and it washed and spun ok. I've checked via VE Net and AES is off. The only thing I can see is that the frequency seems to vary between 50.0hz and 49.9hz.

This is all on a 60 degree standard wash with the quick option selected which knocks 20 minutes off the time.

Now trying a 40 degree delicate wash which has taken 55 minutes on the gennie. Will see what happens and report.


If the suggested plain resistive load doesn't work double check there are no other fancy inverter output features programmed other than AES, that might compromise.


No specific help I know but mine works fine with simple Sterling Combi PSW inverter.

In Topic: Inverter input voltage too high

Yesterday, 10:28 PM

If 17V were really being seen by the batteries they would surely have been showing signs of distress, like bopiling over and fizzing like mad.




Absolutely as mentioned in earlier posts. Disconnecting the Adverc with no significant change rules out that device or its sensing. If Liam can get hold of a multimeter the voltage directly across the batteries with the engine running fast can be checked. I doubt it will be more than 14.5 volts if that. The alternator output voltage can be confirmed at the same time. Although the accuracy of the inverters voltage reading may be in doubt, it was shutting down as designed with the abnormally high indicated input voltage.


Assuming there is a large voltage difference between alternator and battery bank then almost certainly there is a high resistance connection in the positive or negative cable run somewhere between alternator and batteries. It did occur that maybe a battery isolator has been left open or a fuse blown such is the extreme voltage indication. Of course the alternators own regulator should have held back such a high voltage but with the very light load this may not be happening.


It seems likely if you can correct this problem, the case of other devices not working may be resolved as well.

In Topic: Salters Lode

Yesterday, 10:11 PM




Hope you are not still stuck on the bottom. Anyway latest EA announcement says Ely Ouse all back pretty much to normal on Monday...


Good to hear. Leaving Ely tomorrow for a slow trip down to Denver and hopefully through to the Middle Levels on Tuesday.

In Topic: GenACis 4000 generator (badged Paguro) earth issue

Yesterday, 09:59 PM

Sitting in the pub again, it's becoming a habit.

I took a number of voltage readings earlier today but before I give them please note that I've not changed the capacitor as I can't find the 30 m/f one.

I followed Loddens advice to the letter, I hope. Here's what I did and what I found

I connected a 60w 230v bulb to one of the alternator reds and to the generator earth. Bulb just, just about lit. Checked voltage, 62v. I then connected bulb to other red and earth and again the bulb glowed but dimly. Checked voltage, it was 80v. I then repeated the above check but with a fan heater connected as well as the bulb. The bulb lit on both sides, a little, just a little, brighter. Voltages went up to 84v and 112v. At that stage I checked voltage across the 2 reds,
it was 213v (confirmed). I also checked the frequency, it was 50.5 cycles.

My final check having connected the generator output to the boat was voltage at a wall socket. With the immersion heater2kw, on it was 217v. Again frequency was 50.5 cycles

All the above suggests to me that my system IS centre tapped. Am I right and if so where do I go from here? I realise
that I've a problem with voltage but my main concern is around safety and compatibility with my new Mastervolt Combi.
I don't want to use the combi's advanced functions such as power sharing, just as a charger or inverter.



(fallback position, use generator as a mud weight and buy a petrol genie)


Frank,  Alan is spot on in post above confirming their are two separate stator windings which when connected in series provide for a 230 volt output. This does not make for your generator having a centre tapped earth system though. Your further tests unfortunately prove nothing more than the first tests you made. Specifically that the output legs are floating with respect to casing earth and that a certain load is required to achieve full output voltage, referred to in the link I posted in an earlier. Until you provide a positive earth reference specifically looping nominal neutral to genny/output earth then you will be going round in circles. In any case the N/E bond is needed to allow the obligatory RCD device to function correctly from a safety point of view, and it will of course provide for a pass with the socket tester. Remember also in the image posted the output connections left to right are live, earth, neutral.


Regarding the poor voltage regulation with light loads you may find this improves with the 30uF excitation capacitor when you find it.


Ignore this advice if you wish but I see nothing intrinsically wrong with your genny, so it's seems a shame not to use it.

In Topic: Alternator question

Yesterday, 11:27 AM

Can I change "might do" into "no"?


No from practical experience, although unpredictable. One of mine did one didn't.