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by'eck

Member Since 04 Apr 2011
Offline Last Active Today, 10:49 AM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Inverter Earth/Neutral Bonding

Today, 08:14 AM



So if I understand correctly the switch has a 1 - off - 2 configuration and switches both live and neutral? In which case you can put the NE link on that switch between the inverter input N terminal and earth. That way, when you switch to shore power the NE bond will be released. You're right, without an NE bond the RCD won't work when on inverter power.

 

It will work but will have no trip reference. Consequently it won't provide the protection its fitted for.

 

If at all possible fit N/E strap at inverter. This won't leave any nasty surprises if the inverter is replaced in the future.


In Topic: Battery Question. For a change

Yesterday, 07:36 AM

Bought new batteries today. Bog standard wet lead. Multicell.

Fitted, ran the engine for a couple of hours.

Showing good voltage,but, the charge amps didn't fall below 7 amps. Domestic bank showed 14+ volts. Now after two hours showing 12+ volts.

Question. I have 440 amp hrs installed, I have a Victron 702 monitor. What should the charging amps go down to? I have tried reading the booklet but as always I am baffled after the first paragraph.

Thanks for all the help I recieved from you all. Keith M attended the boat and gave good advice.

Martyn

 

New batteries take a while to settle down during which time they will draw more than normal tail charge current. I would expect 1-2 amps max when fully charged at 14+ volts. 

 

You can adjust the tail charge current (It) setting on your BMV. I believe its default is 4% of programmed battery capacity. This is the point at which the SOC reading will jump to 100%. I set mine to 2% which I think is more realistic. This still relates to 11 amps on my 550 Ah bank although typically I see around 1 amp when fully charged. 


In Topic: Ebay vintage engine sales

30 May 2015 - 09:16 AM

Not quite a JP3 engine in a bike though tongue.png

 


In Topic: Building a Generator box

30 May 2015 - 09:05 AM

You will probably need a large cooling fan, maybe two for forced and induced draught - remember the engine needs cool air ideally as well. Will the genny be powerful enough to run fan(s)? How will you silence fan(s)? wacko.png

 

Seriously cannot recall any silent air cooled gennys although the tiny Honda's aren't too bad.


In Topic: Petrol v LPG converted generator

30 May 2015 - 08:28 AM

If you adjust the screw on the regulator by a quarter of a turn clockwise or anti clockwise, it will start easier. Experiment a little, but only in quarter turns.

 

Thanks for advice. My suppliers Sail & Trail honestly pointed out that they had never improved on the starting number of pulls compared with petrol where you at least have a choke. This despite fitting and supplying hundreds of such conversions on the same genny.

 

There is a valve which seems to bypass regulator which you depress when starting, but it seems to make little difference how long you hold it down, and always starts on fifth or sixth pull even when left for several months. I don't find the issue onerous so will leave well alone.