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Fly Navy

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    aviation, cycling, classic cars and now narrowboats!

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  • Occupation
    Retired.

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  1. Fly Navy

    Let there be light

    Please...............no tittering in the cheap seats, now: I am told (by an ex- houdini hatch salesman) that Houdini hatch's are the quickest way to producing condensation inside a boat - ever! Even faster than single glazed windows. So........... Thinking outside the box........ What if I fitted a suitably sized VELUX triplex (openable) window into the superstructure (ceiling)????/ No condensation and tough enough to walk on (closed of course!). Tittering can commence together with any constructive comments please 🤣
  2. Fly Navy

    Making 10 year old paintwork look smarter again

    Valid point Mr Cuthound. However you have cracked open the door to a whole industry of finishers and detailers who have made a fortune on rubbing compounds, cutting compounds, sealers, finishers et al. The "old" T cut (usually in a red plastic bottle and a cream liquid) have gone. My advice, coming from decades of "fettling" car and boat bodywork, is to ask around, look at the finished product and decide for yourself. BUT if you are the vast majority, then buy a well known brand of T cut, same for a polish, possibly a sealant to add icing to the cake.................and get on with it. Foolproof. Your neighbours will be impressed! Remember: KISS. [Keep It Simple, Stupid]}
  3. Fly Navy

    Record your exhaust note

    An acquired taste.............
  4. Fly Navy

    Water in the hold!

    Literally 😁
  5. Fly Navy

    Keeping a non-shiny look

    Two 'professional' ways to get a matt finish. Ask the painter to use satin or matt - simples!!!! The other way is to 'wrap' the section of boat you want covered. Vinyl wrapping is common practice now with cars and lorries. Boats are just taking off.... Warning! Do not try this yourself!!!!!! Boat Vinyl Wrap
  6. Fly Navy

    Painting a modern steel boat

    It doesn't matter what paint supplier you use, these days - all of them meet the required standards of longevity, application, opacity etc etc. It boils down to (as some have already stated) the 6 P.s: Professional Preperation Prevents P*ss Poor Performance. 7/8ths of the time and effort is in the preparation and the remaining 1/8th is the result. Once you have the result you desire, then because the boat is exposed to the atmosphere 100% of the time, you MUST ensure that you maintain the finish. A wash and polish atleast once a month will stave off 90% of the problems associated with poor paintwork.
  7. Fly Navy

    Making 10 year old paintwork look smarter again

    Very good point, re - T Cut and vinyl graphics! Thanks for reminding me. I was advising the use of a good T cut - based on paintwork only. Be careful what 'grade' of T cut you can buy. It ranges from a slightly cutting wax, to liquid grit!! Always put a reasonable quality wax on to protect the newly exposed paintwork. [Atleast 1 coat, preferably more if you have the time and patience]. PS: If you want a professional finish (IE: Nerd level), then this requires the services of a "Detailer". They can be fairly expensive but by God the finish is showroom standard! If anyone does want their boat paintwork to "look like new", let me know and if there is enough interest, I know of a Detailer who would relish the challenge of tackling a NB or two. {His normal 'vehicles' are high end cars - Range Rovers, Mercs, Ferarri etc}.
  8. Fly Navy

    Water in the hold!

    Thanks guys.
  9. Fly Navy

    Making 10 year old paintwork look smarter again

    Don't bother with varnish - too expensive and too messy. If you get the prep work less than 100% it will allow moisture under it and peel within the year., As mentioned before - T cut it and then wax it. Do this evry 2-3 years and it will look as new.
  10. Fly Navy

    Water in the hold!

    I have had a response from the broker: He is adamant it is rain water only. The auto bilge pump had a jammed float and hence the cct bkr blew. He is draining the bilge and will then monitor it. I like the suggestion that I need to be there when they try to start it.
  11. Fly Navy

    Water in the hold!

    Excellent advice - and thank you.
  12. Fly Navy

    Water in the hold!

    I'm staggered that this is not necessarily a major issue???? I'm guessing another month maybe, unattended (waiting to be sold) and at the very least, the engine becomes a right off? At worst - boat sinks! Would any of you, having seen what I therefore saw - still look at this boat as a serious option? What checks should I insist on now?
  13. Fly Navy

    Water in the hold!

    So I pay a visit to a well known and respectable marina in the NW to look at a 60' boat. One owner from new (2004). 50hrs on the engine as it was a live in boat for nearly all of its life and it didn't go far outside the marina. Boat seemed solid and everything appeared as expected, except............................ when the broker lifted the engine bay hatch on the semi trad, the engine bay (engine mounted on two longitudinal "I" beams about 9" tall) was up to the top of the I beams and the engine sump was submerged in dirty water??? When I asked where that came from, he said "rainwater getting in through the hatch cover". The hatch seemed intact to me sitting over its guide rails as expected. The guide rails surrounding the hatch cover appeared unblocked. I also checked to see if surface water on the platform could escape - and it could, easily. I asked why the auto bilge pump hadn't kicked in and he said the pump cct bkr (which I saw on the console) was "popped" and he had to hold this in to make the pump work satisfactorily!!! This he did and the pump started ejecting the dirty water for as long as he held the bkr in??? Questions for you: 1. Could that much water get into the bilge after the boat has been sitting there unattended for 4 months. 2. Is there a serious risk that water 'may' have seeped into the engine sump, contaminating the oil? 3. Bilge pump cct bkr 'popped' - what's all that about? 4. If it's not rain water - how can so much water enter the engine bay in 12-16 weeks?
  14. Fly Navy

    Does a boat need PAT Testing

    PAT testing is only necessary if part or all of your activity is commercial. Domestic or private use - not needed. [Having said that....technically and in theory, a marina "could" insist on your kit being PAT tested, to comply with the marinas insurance policy.....]
  15. Fly Navy

    British Midland Airline. Customers Stuck In Europe

    Only the well managed will survive - simples. No point in blaming external forces, they need to look to themselves.
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