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Saint Paul

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Midlands
  • Occupation
    Retired
  • Boat Name
    Remady

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  1. Thanks guys will look on inside of boat to ascertain what screw enter into wood or just self tapped into the boat steal. They certainly look like normal brass screws to me. Will be at boat on Monday to check.
  2. I am removing existing windows, having them powder coated and intend to reinstall. The existing screws are brass slowed heads. I did not expect them to be brass and very difficult to extract in one piece. What are the recommended screw type. Any additional advice appreciated.
  3. Can anyone recommend a Gas Safe Engineer near Tamworth. I just need a new shielded flexible hose connecting to existing Hob on my son`s boat. This is to sort out the bodge job of the previous owner (I think). See pics attached. You can see that the final connection to the hob has a Cut hose connected to a threaded union. Its a very simple job but will need testing afterwards. Likely costs would be helpful. Soz cannot attach pic file size too large for system. Any help gratefully appreciated.
  4. I am looking to purchase a boat which was over plated (bottom) some six years ago. Does anyone have any opinions of the likely lifespan of over plating or any other advice; negative or positive! Naturally I would have a survey done.
  5. Sorry - Blackhands it is! Must be an age thing - (on my part). Thanks for the info though.
  6. Has anyone had recent contact with Richard Milligan (Big Hands Milligan). I have tried to contact him on his mobile a number of time over the last two weeks but to no avail. Not spoken with him since last year. Very unlike him not to respond so somewhat concerned. Be grateful for any info.
  7. I have (hopefully) attached some pics of the boiler pot and the probe you need to replace. These pics were sent to me by a nice person on this forum when I first had the Kabola E3. I have always found Karunda very helpful but of course they charge money for the spares.  I am about to take the pot out again to hoover out the dust and scrape out the hardened on coke, for the winter use. You COULD fiddle about trying to take the nut off the probe but chances are the nut will not budge until you have lost skin off your knuckles so for both those reasons, I recommend that you do take out the pot to scrape it out.  

    Turn off the fuel supply.

    Unfortunately you first have to remove the fuel regulator gismo on the front of the heater and the overboil sensor tube whilst being careful not to damage the copper coil tube to it. Keep it upright or the fuel will run all over your floor.

     

    Undo the smallest compression nut on the thermocouple end of the copper capillary tube that connects to the probe in the pot. 

    Undo the two nuts that hold on the red font plate of the boiler.

    Put a piece of wood under the pot to catch it when it drops so that the "asbestos" tape seal is not damaged. (If it looks dodgy, replace it) or you won't get a good blue flame).

    Undo and remove the under two soot covered nuts that you will find under the front of the pot inside the boiler casing and remove their bolts. The front of the pot should drop down onto the wood unless it is gummed up and needs gentle persuasion. It may still stay hung up in place at the back of the pot where is held up by a metal strip that the pot edge rests on.

    Carefully pull the pot slightly forward and it will drop off of the back ledge onto the wood and you can slide it all out.

    Remove the probe, clean out the pot and install the new probe.

    Now - I have always found that putting the pot back is an exasperating job but sometimes it goes back like a dream. Put your bit of wood back in and push the pot back lifting it slightly at the back so that the meatal at the top/rear of the pot resits on the metal strip.

    Now you need four hands.

    One hand in side the boiler to feel that the pot and its seal is central - another hand to gently lift the front of the pot until it is firmly in place - then you r third hand to insert one of the two bolts at the top front of the pot and the fourth hand you put a nut on the end of the bolt and make it finger tight. you can now use you first two hands to put in the second bolt and nut. 

    Now connect the other end of the copper capillary tube to the thermocouple (if you haven't done so, I recommend that having gone to al this faff that you ask Karunda to send you a replacement thermocouple (not cheap but you just saved yourself a fortune in "engineer" charges,)

    Replace the front cover and the fuel regulator - turn on the fuel - light the boiler and have a stiff drink.

    I may have forgotten something but you should be able to figure it out from the above. Let me know if you get stuck.

    Cheers

    Ian

     

      

     

    kabola pot3.jpeg

    kabola pot.jpeg

    kabola pot2.jpeg

  8. Thanks for your response. Good to know someone has managed it. The boat is moored at Alvecote on the Coventry. Some way from you I believe. Any description would be helpful. Its just trying to understand what I need to remove to gain access to the burner pot to connect the sensor end of the coupler. I would appreciate any explanation as to steps and "hints".
  9. Does anyone have any experience of replacing a Thermocouple Sensor on an E3 Kabola Boiler? I have a new sensor to fit but I need to know if it can be done without removing the burner basin, hence dismantling the entire boiler casing. Any help/advice greatly appreciated.
  10. To answer the questions raised so far. The boat is a 47ft BCN Tug with a Nanni 4.150 HE (keel cooled) based on Kubota v1505. Trad stern. for Tony - the injectors replace were corroded badly.
  11. Hi Folks, After the replacement/refurb of injectors to cure a "white smoke" issue - which did not cure the smoke problem, I now find I have a knackered engine - head gasket, bent conrod and two pistons corroded by water ingress. It looks like I may have to get a refurbished engine!!!! I can get the cost of a likely engine replacement but does anyone have any idea of the likely cost of removal of the old and installation of the new?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  12. Thanks for your help guys. Two injectors were beyond repair and needed replacement and two needed refurb. However, injectors were not the only problem. Appears I have a bend conrod, two corroded pistons due to water ingress!!! Never rains but......... So it now looks like a rebuild/major repair or a refurbished engine as a replacement. Does anyone have any idea/experience of the likely cost of removal of old and installation of new??? I will re-post these new issue with a new description also. Again many thanks.
  13. I have a Nanni 4.150HE Engine which is based on a Kubota v1505. I need to possibly replace one or more injectors. Are they likely to be the same spec/type in the Kubota v1505 base engine and in the marinised version (Nanni 4.150HE)? Would Nanni likely change spec of injectors in the marinising process? Any opions or advice greatly appreciated.
  14. Many thanks. Your comments have helped me focus my thinking that I am on the right track. The final feed pipe to the soot scraper and feed hole are my next course of action. Followed by the thermocouple if the later does not resolve the problem. Will have to wait a week though till next at boat.
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