Alan de Enfield

I have never had an isolator between the PV and the MPPT and its passed the BSS. I simply disconnect one wire from the MPPT.

My 8hp twin cylinder Suzuki

Our business was banking with Nat West and as a business account they had bank charges : Deposting cash was charged at £0.95 per £100 Manually depositing a cheque was charged at £0.95 per cheque plus a £0.95 handling charge (Example : Each manual transaction will have two types of charges, the cost of depositing three cheques includes a paid in charge per cheque [3 x £0.95 = £2.85], plus a manual transaction charge of £0.95, totalling £3.80) A BACS / online transfer was £0.35 per item (irrespective of value) The business was such that 90% of the business was paid for in cash and 'cashing up' at the end of the week meant there was several £1000s to be paid into the bank - put £10,000 cash into the bank and you'd pay £95 in charges. It was more beneficial (but strongly frowned upon by the banks) for me to pay the company cash into my personal bank account (no charges) and then transfer it to the company account and pay just £0.35 for the transaction.

You have to go thru' the glory-hole before you get to the centre of Lincoln. Moorings left handside alongside the wall just after you have gone thru' the 'hole' (when coming into Lincoln from Torksey.) I was also pointing out that depending on your profile, beam and length you may, possibly, not even get thru. the Glory-Hole

The 'Glory hole' Being an arched bridge the acceptable air draft is a complicated equation depends on beam, boat length and amount of water in the river. The bridge height to the 'apex' is (normally) 9 feet For a Narrow boat the safe height height is 8 feet For a widebeam it may be a fair bit less, depending if you are 7' 6", 10', 12' or 14 foot. There is a kink in the middle which you have to get your bow past and do a slight turn once you 'centre' is past. If you are long, fat and high it may be 'interesting'. You can just see the 'chicane' on the left hand sideof the bridge.

Isn't that what a mortgage is ?

what videos - no videos have been posted in this thread, we can only go on the information that has .been provided.

It is fairly remote, but you are correct - if the boat had a mortgage, or was stolen , then the seller is not the legal owner and he cannot sell the boat, the buyer would then be out of pocket as the boat was repossesed by the 'proper' owner (Bank, etc)

What videos ? I was basing it on the written claims by Battle Born, part of which states : Prowse presented his content as technical analysis while omitting critical context, misrepresenting product design and altering the batteries before testing them by removing structural components and running already-damaged units out of spec, producing a materially inaccurate portrayal of Battle Born Batteries’ real-world safety and performance.

Thats a good price - but, if it is like most boat clubs, you must do so many days a year on 'marina maintenance' painting, mowing grass etc etc.

If they have evidence to support their claim then Prowse is in trouble !

But, if the link from RussT is correct, he tampered with their batteries and damaged them so as to make them fail in the tests. Prowse presented his content as technical analysis while omitting critical context, misrepresenting product design and altering the batteries before testing them by removing structural components and running already-damaged units out of spec, producing a materially inaccurate portrayal of Battle Born Batteries’ real-world safety and performance.

I'd suggest that before buying it ensure that you have a mooring confirmed near where you want it. Moorings are not always easy to find, especially if you restrict yourself to a specific area. For example - the C&RT moorings have no vacancies. https://www.watersidemooring.com/472-parbold-l1 Many boaters on this forum travel 'hundreds' of miles from where they live to where their boat is.

Tie a rope onto the engine and have a helper keeping some of the weight on the rope - then WHEN it slips, hopefully they can keep the engine out of the water. Dropping the engine into the water is not the 'end' but it is a bit of a job getting it back into a usable condition. When fitting the OB to my tender it slipped and fell off into about 30 feet of water. Hours of throwing and recovering a grapnel eventually bought it back - it was nowhere near where it went into the water - I think it must have 'fluttered' as it went down. It is then the fun starts : Drain all the oil out and flush with fresh oil, refill. Drain all of the fuel out and flush with fresh petrol, refill. Remove and strip carb(s) reassemble and refit. Wash down the exterior with fresh clean water. Dry everything off. Once all reassembled it should start - leave it running for an hour to get hot and get everything dry and flushed thru. EXCEPT when it doesn't start - I pulled on the starter until my arms ached, choke in, choke out, throttle moved to different locations - nothing. Stripped the carb again and found a "bubble" (micro globule) of water blocking the jet - blew it out, reassembled and it started 1st pull.