Alan de Enfield

Tie a rope onto the engine and have a helper keeping some of the weight on the rope - then WHEN it slips, hopefully they can keep the engine out of the water. Dropping the engine into the water is not the 'end' but it is a bit of a job getting it back into a usable condition. When fitting the OB to my tender it slipped and fell off into about 30 feet of water. Hours of throwing and recovering a grapnel eventually bought it back - it was nowhere near where it went into the water - I think it must have 'fluttered' as it went down. It is then the fun starts : Drain all the oil out and flush with fresh oil, refill. Drain all of the fuel out and flush with fresh petrol, refill. Remove and strip carb(s) reassemble and refit. Wash down the exterior with fresh clean water. Dry everything off. Once all reassembled it should start - leave it running for an hour to get hot and get everything dry and flushed thru. EXCEPT when it doesn't start - I pulled on the starter until my arms ached, choke in, choke out, throttle moved to different locations - nothing. Stripped the carb again and found a "bubble" (micro globule) of water blocking the jet - blew it out, reassembled and it started 1st pull.

And the need for a clothes peg !

Here you go .............

Do you think you could do similar with the supplier of your anchor ?

It should be set so the leg is vertical in the water, and the prop is horizontal. Don't assume that the 9.9 as ever set up correctly. I take it you knew about the different leg-lengths, and you correctly measured your transom before you bought the 20hp - Very short - short - long - xlong - xxlong If you have a "long" depth transom and you purchased a "short" length leg you will not get anywhere as the boat is shielding the the prop and stopping it getting any water. The cavitation (anti ventilation) plate must be aligned with the bottom of the boat - It must not be above the bottom of the boat, but, it can be a couple of inches below the bottom of the boat, ideally it should not be anymore.

Surely as a solo transatlantic and around the world sailor, you always 'moused' your shackles. Not only on anchor rodes, but when, (for example) bending on a furling headsail Poor show if you didn't.

No, I had been anchoring on & off for probably 30 odd years when it happened - it was the difference in performance of a Bruce anchor that skids along the bottom for a few dozen yards and gradually sets, and its replacement, a modern anchor that bites 100% immediately. You are correct - it is the non-tidal section of the River Trent

I dislike (hate is too strong a word) them as "slurp" their Tea!

I'd presumed it means a PRN (which would mean nothing to "Joe public") A PRN (Public Right of Navigation) refers to the legal right of the public to travel by water. Historically, this right has been recognized in various forms, including tidal waters and non-tidal rivers. Tidal Waters: The public has a right of navigation over tidal waters, which extends around the coast and may be subject to local restrictions. Non-Tidal Waters: The public generally has a right of navigation on non-tidal waters, either where a right exists in statute or where common law rights have been acquired over time. Legal Context: The existence of a PRN is often based on historical evidence of use and is subservient to private rights, which can be challenged through legal means. In summary, PRN is a fundamental aspect of waterway access, ensuring that the public can navigate rivers without undue restrictions.

River not in flood Green boards Non-tidal Engine failure Result .......................

Can I just REPEAT these are not my 'figures' ( but they are the standard boating recommendation and I agree with them) but they ARE the requirements of the PLA on the Thames. Maybe I can just repost how the scope (length of anchor chain) affects the holding ability of an anchor. If you have 3x the length of chain to the water depth (as per the PLA recommendation) then you are only getting 53% of the potential holding power of the anchor. If (say) your anchor has tested as giving 1000kgs holding power, using a scope of 3:1 it will only give you a maximum of 530kgs pull before it breaks-out. Anchoring is a skill that needs practice to do well. You don't just throw the anchor and chain over the side it must be properly deployed.

Richmond Council passed byelaws limiting mooring to 1 hour, with enforcement "applied with all vigour" Byelaws related to mooring Richmond Council.pdf

Don't forget that the guidance for the Thames (issued by the PLA) is a minimum of 45 metres ( 3x 15 mts) for 100% chain and 5x 15 mts for rope. If there is a lot of freshwater then you should have 5x depth of 100% chain and a 'lot more' (at least twice that of rope.) Each crew member should have an auto-inflate life lifejacket The performance of a Danforth is much worse than a CQR so you do need to have a heavier anchor - your 20kg Danforth is on the absolute minimum. These are not my figures before any one accuses me of scaremongering - they are issued by the authorities with much experience on the Thames. I doubt they'd use it more than once - they buy them to comply with the rules/guidance, because they are the cheapest - and - the hope that they never need to use it, so its just a waste on money anyway.

Do you mean chain/rope ? An anchor rode is "whatever is joining the anchor to the boat", be it 100% chain, 100% rope or any combination of the two. I did have a brown trouser moment when we were trying out the new Mantus anchor. We have a 100% chain rode and in about 20 metres of water with a small tide running, lowered the anchor and slowly paid out about 80 metres of chain (to give a 4:1 scope) The anchor set so quickly and so hard the windlass was ripped off its mountings, and another 70 metres of chain went zipping over the bow. Slowly motored forwards before it hit the bitter end. Then, had to handball 150 metres of chain back into the chain locker, and pull up the 30kg anchor. Had a bit of a sore back for a few days, but we were in the dock having the windlass mountings and mounting plates strengthened to be able to cope with a 'latest generation' UHHP (Ultra High Holding Power) rated anchor.