Alan de Enfield

Inland waterway boats are not registered, there is no log book and no proof of ownership documentation. The best (and safest) way to buy a boat is directly from the 'owner' and not via a broker. You can then ask the seller to see copies of correspondance for boat licencing, moorings, servicing, invoices etc etc, from those documents you can then check his name and address against his driving licence, and will see if his photo on the licence matches the face you are talking to. It is a risky business buying a boat, but I reckon more buyers have been 'ripped off' by brokers taking the money and then going bust, than private individuals selling a stolen boat. One would hope that your surveyor is doing more than just checking the HIN. I'd really strongly suggest you make the effort to actually go and see the boat yourself - how do you know the toilet tank has not burst and sewage if 'floating about beneath the floor ? or, the boat is full of mould and damp from leaking windows. Fine - if you can afford to lose the money then you don't need to go look at it, Just do your full due diligence and you should be OK. But, a fool and his money are easily parted (and not even viewing the boat is decidedly foolish)

Not on many / most narrowboats you wouldn't.

You 'done good' A PCA can cost around £4000 - £5000, who is paying fo the PCA ?

Is this 'lever' the gear selector ? It looks to have snapped off - has it ? Or s it just an unusual optical effect picture ?

I am not supporting the OP in anyway - from what I have seen so far it is a disaster waithing to happen. I was simply correcting your suggestion that you need to drill holes in your boat to fit a depth-sounder / transducer. Mine shows as (currently) being in the Mid-West of the USA, This morning I was "in" the Netherlands.

I was replying to MTB's post regarding ................... So keep your nose out unless you can post anything relevant.

That phrase was made a legal requirement in all insurance renewal offers some years ago (for all insurances, not just boats).

Having to get over that problem with a number of GRP boats - it is simple. 1) The transducer can be stuck to the transom with epoxy glue. 2) SA Velcro can be applied to the transducer and the transom. It can them be 'unzipped' and removed at will. 3) Many temporary installation (say, for a row boat etc) use the transducer mounted to a piece of 2" x 1" x X length wood, and the wood then clamped onto the boat via molegrips (or similar) 4) On a GRP boat the transducer works thru the GRP, so it can be 'araldited' to the inside of the hull, or, hung in a plastic tube filled with oil.

And Volvo have put a restruction to charge to a max of 70% to avoid overheating and fires. Owners not happy ith a 150 mile range when they thought they re buying a 260 mile range vehicle. The issue sits with the 69kWh nickel-manganese-cobalt (NMC) battery pack that Volvo sources from Shandong Geely Sunwoda, a subsidiary of Volvo’s Chinese parent company Geely. In rare cases, this battery can experience a thermal event when charged to a high state of charge. The technical root cause relates to how certain cells within specific battery modules behave under high-charge conditions; in a small proportion of cars, the cell chemistry creates conditions that could in the worst case lead to thermal runaway, which is the process by which heat in one cell propagates to adjacent cells and eventually causes a fire. Owners should also be aware that parking a fully charged electric vehicle indoors is generally considered a lower-risk practice than leaving a damaged or recalled battery at very high charge. During the recall period, if you can avoid parking your EX30 in an enclosed garage immediately after charging to 70 per cent, doing so is a sensible precaution. Park in a well-ventilated space if possible and avoid leaving the car unattended for extended periods at maximum charge.

Sorry but your ignorance is showing - again. The C&RT designation of Narrow or Wide generally relates to the dimensions of the locks (not the height x width of bridges) A 'wide canal' will have locks ~14 feet wide to accomodate 2 narrowboats side by side, or 1 widebeam - this does not mean that other features on the canal (eg bridge height and shape) will accomodate 'wide beam' boats that are the same air draft as a narrowboat. A 'narrow canal' has locks ~7 feet wide and can only accomodate a single narrowboat. Some canals have many miles of wide locks, and then suddenly they become 'narrow locks'

On the canals the bridge clearance depends on the beam of the boat - will your app work out if the particular boat can get under the bridge or not. Remember that the large majority of boats on the UK canals are under 7 feet beam - but a new breed of boats are coming on the canals that are 10 feet, or 12 feet beam. A bridge that a 7 foot boat beam can go under may not allow a 12 foot beam boat to transit.

Indeed you are, and have no control where the current takes you, my experience of boats drifting on my local 'big river' (The River Trent) is that the boat ends up drifting into the trees, gets stuck on a weir, or, rolls over 'upside down' as it goes over the weir. Example The more you post, confirms your lack of knowledge of the UK inland waterways.

But when Brooke posted He was just scaremongering and, his suggestion bears no resemblance to reality

Am I remembering incorrectly that there is advice ith LFPs to charge to 80% and discharge to 20%, giving an actual usable capacity of 60%. For FLAs it is to charge to 100% and for best 'life' to discharge to 50%, giving a useful usable capacity of 50%. As far as I am aware - the biggest benefit of LFPs is the charging time when compared to FLAs