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Bread

Installing Refleks Diesel Stove. Drilling holes advice???

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Hello

 

I’m fitting a Refleks diesel stove in the boat and it’s gravity fed from the diesel tank. It’ll be a quarter full and wondered what connections to get to stabilise the connection on the tank. 

 

I’m fairly handy but by no means qualified and wondered if it’s wise to carry out the work myself. Struggling to find anyone to do the work this time of year. 

thanks in advance 

 

 

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Welcome.

Someone will be along soon.

Do you have the manufacturers installation manual.

I assume you do not intend to have a dedicated day tank for your stove. 

Have you looked through the search function , top right on my screen.

Edited by LadyG

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Installation instructions here https://refleks-olieovne.dk/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/GBMONTNY.pdf

 

Also you can join this Facebook group https://www.facebook.com/groups/334808647035734/?ref=group_header

 

If you are intending to feed the Refleks from a separate tank, you should bear in mind that any tank with a capacity of more than 27 litres (I think that's the volume, check the BSS), will be treated as any other fuel tank and will need a breather, means of dealing with over filling etc. etc.

Edited by koukouvagia

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I've put this post in boat building and maintenance as it seems more likely to get a response.

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4 hours ago, Bread said:

It’ll be a quarter full and wondered what connections to get to stabilise the connection on the tank. 

 

Puzzled. 

 

Surely the tank level will vary between full and near empty as the months pass.

 

And what do you mean by 'stabilise the connection'? In what way are you anticipating your connection being 'unstable'? 

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Hi,

 

Thanks for your replies. Basically once I drill the hole into the diesel tank, how do go about securing the copper pipe to the fuel tank? Someone mentioned chemical metal to secure a dut around the hole then plug it by screwing in a bolt.

 

Will this be suffice?

 

Thanks
 

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22 minutes ago, Bread said:

Hi,

 

Thanks for your replies. Basically once I drill the hole into the diesel tank, how do go about securing the copper pipe to the fuel tank? Someone mentioned chemical metal to secure a dut around the hole then plug it by screwing in a bolt.

 

Will this be suffice?

 

Thanks
 

Hi, I'm presuming you are talking about connecting into  your existing fuel tank on your boat ?

The chemical metal idea would not be a good  idea, not in my opinion.

Surely you must be able to connect into the fuel pipe that feeds the engine, after the main isolation valve  from the tank, much safer.

 

bazza

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Hi,

 

Yes I will be drilling straight into the existing fuel tank.

That would be an option but I'd have to drain the whole tank which means I'd get all the crappy stuff at the bottom of it.

Am I right in thinking that? I didn't want to fully drain the tank if im honest.

 

Thanks so much

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1 hour ago, Bread said:

Hi,

 

Thanks for your replies. Basically once I drill the hole into the diesel tank, how do go about securing the copper pipe to the fuel tank? Someone mentioned chemical metal to secure a dut around the hole then plug it by screwing in a bolt.

Presuming you don't have access to inside of your tank?  What about this then https://www.butlertechnik.com/eberspacher-heater-parts-c110/eberspacher-heater-fuel-tank-connector-standpipe-600mm-251226895000-p964

 

A previous similar thread ; 

 

 

Edited by Robbo

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28 minutes ago, Robbo said:

Presuming you don't have access to inside of your tank?  What about this then https://www.butlertechnik.com/eberspacher-heater-parts-c110/eberspacher-heater-fuel-tank-connector-standpipe-600mm-251226895000-p964

 

A previous similar thread ; 

 

 

Would there not be a risk of contamination to the diesel from drilling through the top of the tank? I ask as on the face of it that looks a brilliant way around fitting a diesel heaters fuel line to am existing tank.

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I think if you put grease around the drill bit it should avoid any shwarf dropping into the tank. I can't really connect it to the fuel filter as the unit is gravity fed. So the higher the fitting to the existing fuel tank the better. 

 

The heater fuel tank connector looks good. That might be an option

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I now understand what you are asking.

This picture shows two ways of connecting pipes to a fuel tank without welding.

The breather and the filler cap are attached by Essex fittings (google these) - much cheaper than the Eberspacher one.

The inlet and overflow are attached to a plate which is clamped in place by a corresponding inner plate.  A rubber gasket is used to seal.

 

In practice if you go slowly with plenty of greese you should avoid swarf dropping into the tank.  

 

 

IMG_0236.jpg.a90023dbe79647ede01af01b106fac6f.jpg

Edited by koukouvagia

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Ah great,

 

So because it's gravity fed, I will have to drill on the side of the tank. But in theory it's the same practice. I won't need an overflow pipe, so the best bet is the breather and filler cap I think. I will google these now along with Essex fittings. Do you think I should put some sealant on the rubber gasket?

 

Thank you

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4 minutes ago, Bread said:

Ah great,

 

So because it's gravity fed, I will have to drill on the side of the tank. But in theory it's the same practice. I won't need an overflow pipe, so the best bet is the breather and filler cap I think. I will google these now along with Essex fittings. Do you think I should put some sealant on the rubber gasket?

 

Thank you

There is, in fact, a pipe going to the fire from the bottom of the tank.  The two pipes you can see on the top to and from the main tank via a semi rotary pump.

I put a bit of sealant on the clamped plates. Probably not strictly necessary.

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I see, So you have a rotary pump to supply the fuel from the main fuel tank to the supporting fuel tank for the fire. 

So, the big nut in the middle of the picture, that's a breather and filler cap? And my 8mm copper pipe should just slot into that once I've attached that big nut to the tank? Ha, I'm actually laughing at my inability to grasp this. So sorry

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Here's a better picture showing a later and improved set up.  The vertical pipe goes to a flame arrester on the outside of the boat - required by BSS.  The large nut is a cap which enables me to dip the tank; it's not used for filling. 

There was no convenient place to situate the tank to allow any overflow to go overboard, so to comply with the BSS I have a return pipe to the main tank.

P1230602.jpg.5ff3096cba4dbb26b924752a3f1e0872.jpg

 

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Thanks so much for that. Though I'm not using the separate fuel tank. I'm running straight from the main tank. So not sure I'll need an overflow pipe will i?

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11 minutes ago, Bread said:

Thanks so much for that. Though I'm not using the separate fuel tank. I'm running straight from the main tank. So not sure I'll need an overflow pipe will i?

No because the BSS will cover the main tank which presumably already complies.

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2 minutes ago, Phil Ambrose said:

Surely the easiest way would be to T into the main fuel line.

Phil

Only if there is a sufficient drop from the tank to the fire because it's gravity fed.  This would only work well if you have a day tank.

 

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Not sure if I'm understanding this correctly, but have a look and see if there is already a spare connection fitted to the tank in question. It turns out there was on mine, though I used a special fitting, drilling a hole and feeding a pipe down, then tightening the fitting, it's somewhere in my lengthy thread here (for a webasto)...

 

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6 hours ago, koukouvagia said:

Only if there is a sufficient drop from the tank to the fire because it's gravity fed.  This would only work well if you have a day tank.

 

But surly the drop will be the same if he comes out or the tank or from a fuel line, his maximum head is the level of diesel in the tank. IMO it will all work much better with a small day tank at the correct height with a take off in the bottom the same as  that lovely shiny stainless tank. I use a day tank for my Dickinson.

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Im thinking of putting a diesel heater in too. My thoughts are

empty tank to a point where i want an engine only reserve.

put magnet in tank on a cord below the point where i want hole. ( to collect swarf)

drill tank and tap for feed for heater. 

Fit stop tap at new tank exit.

fill tank.

this way i can never drain the tank by using the heater to prevent the engine running.

 

 

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