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3 minutes ago, Neil Smith said:

Anyone used the one from tool station rustins £6 for 250ml.

 

Neil

I used to use that in my teens on old cars and bikes. The rust always came back pronto although that could have been down to my poor finishing. 

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On ‎19‎/‎07‎/‎2018 at 10:23, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

 

But you still haven't cleared up the confusion. Where are these rust spots? On the hull being grit-blasted? Or somewhere else?

 

If on the hull, why is the grit-blasting not dealing with them?

 

 

I'm still confused. It sound like the OP is having the hull grit blasted and then using a rust converter prior to epoxy?

 

Each to their own, but for the reasons I already stated, that sounds like madness to me....

 

The epoxy is your primer - you don't need an inferior rust converter on a grit blasted hull.

Edited by blackrose
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  • 1 month later...
On 19/07/2018 at 11:23, Dartagnan said:

May I just add a comment in mitigation.  I am not stupid but after some medical issues I do now have some cognitive deficiencies and sometimes I do not express myself clearly.  I often think that what I have said or written is clear but obviously that is not the case and I miss material facts out.  This also leads to poor decision making and costly mistakes.  ?

I got it first time round

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I have some zinc phosphate primer in grey which I'd like to use in the engine bay, Im presuming I need to apply fertan, or vactan before doing so or will the phosphate primer be sufficient and then a top coat of something?  Thanks in advance for any advice. 

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If you are putting the primer on clean dry unrusted steel you don't need vactan etc.  If there is rust  you do.  If there is grease or oiliness you need to remove that too. Then prime.

Follow the primer with an oil resistant top coat.  International Danboline used to be the stuff but (at least the red) seems to have been discontinued.

N

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1 hour ago, BEngo said:

If you are putting the primer on clean dry unrusted steel you don't need vactan etc.  If there is rust  you do.  If there is grease or oiliness you need to remove that too. Then prime.

Follow the primer with an oil resistant top coat.  International Danboline used to be the stuff but (at least the red) seems to have been discontinued.

N

Thanks, there is rust but only slight, so I will use Fertan,   I was thinking of using up some old but still good 'Narrowboat Paint Top Gloss' as the last coat. 

 

(sorry to hijack your thread Dartagnan but it was very opportune)

 

 

 

 

Edited by Guest
adding apologies
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14 hours ago, Winn said:

Thanks, there is rust but only slight, so I will use Fertan,   I was thinking of using up some old but still good 'Narrowboat Paint Top Gloss' as the last coat. 

 

(sorry to hijack your thread Dartagnan but it was very opportune)

 

 

 

 

 

Given the difficulty in accessing parts of the engine bay when the engine is in it, I would use Danboline bilge paint rather thsn ordinary gloss. You really don't want to be removing the gloss and repainting any time soon. 

 

Also use a light colour - it makes spotting leaks and belt dust (a sign of too loose a belt) so much easier.

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22 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

I thought it obvious as well

"My NB is currently being shot blasted and epoxied.  When I get her back I would like to attend to some small rust spots." 

 

The bit in bold gave it away, didn't it! Methinks the poor old OP was blaming himself for being unclear rather unnecessarily. :)

 

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41 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:

"My NB is currently being shot blasted and epoxied.  When I get her back I would like to attend to some small rust spots." 

 

The bit in bold gave it away, didn't it! Methinks the poor old OP was blaming himself for being unclear rather unnecessarily. :)

 

Quite!  I reckon it was more a case of those who didn't read it properly eagerly jumped in to give the usual pontificating and 'expert' advice on an aspect he didnt require. 

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