Car radio cassette wiring

[ronnietucker]

* sobs uncontrollably *

I just want to know where the 1A and 5A wires go...

* sobs *

[Paul C]

2 minutes ago, bizzard said:

The power load to raise and lower an automatic aerial could be considerable, especially when the telescopes get dirty and gooy. So I'd say that that side of things is powered from the ignition side as switching the ignition on and off with the set switched on usually makes the aerial go up and down as well as turning the set on and off. I can't see a 1amp fuse being strong enough to work those aerials without blowing. Maybe there's an internal relay that does it.

There isn't two "sides" internally in the stereo. The battery feed powers pretty much everything, the ignition feed feeds a "switch" to turn some functions on and off.

In fact.....I think you need to rethink how an aerial is powered. They typically have 3 wires - one for a direct connection to the fusebox/battery etc, a ground, and a "signal" wire from the stereo. When the signal wire is +12V it powers up if its not already up; when this signal wire goes to 0V, its powered down if its not already down.

[WotEver]

4 minutes ago, ronnietucker said:

* sobs uncontrollably *

I just want to know where the 1A and 5A wires go...

* sobs *

Lol. As Paul wrote (and as I thought I’d originally written!) Battery goes to the 5A fuse. Ignition goes to the 1A fuse. 

[OldGoat]

Everybody's going round in circles (as usual...)

Back to basics; most car radios us the ISO connector standard -

http://wallmural.co/iso-radio-wiring-diagram/

where you can see that there is a wire for the memory retention power -

• Yellow = memory retention
• Red = Radio power
• Blue = Power from the radio to the antenna motor
• Join the red and yellow together if you have any doubts as to whether any significant power is drawn down that lead, other wise don't connect the yellow
• As a boater you probably won't have a motorised aerial (there's always one) - so don't connect it to anything.
• The specific answer to your question and to alleviate your grief is to connect your boat power to the Red connection. Seemples.
• I think that's what I have done for both of my boat radios - but then it's a pain to retune both of them when I take the boat out - and that's why I'm going to spend the princely sum of a fiver to see whether a remote battery (which is tiny) will work for the Yellow lead.

 

[Richard10002]

16 minutes ago, OldGoat said:

• I think that's what I have done for both of my boat radios - but then it's a pain to retune both of them when I take the boat out - and that's why I'm going to spend the princely sum of a fiver to see whether a remote battery (which is tiny) will work for the Yellow lead.

Please let us know what works if you get around to it. I leave my radio supply on when I leave the boat so I dont lose the memory. It's irritating enough when I have to turn the supply off at the isolators, so there is no way I'm retuning every time I get on board

[pearley]

1 hour ago, bizzard said:

The power load to raise and lower an automatic aerial could be considerable, especially when the telescopes get dirty and gooy. So I'd say that that side of things is powered from the ignition side as switching the ignition on and off with the set switched on usually makes the aerial go up and down as well as turning the set on and off. I can't see a 1amp fuse being strong enough to work those aerials without blowing. Maybe there's an internal relay that does it.   Of course if you have a Del Boy wire coat hanger aerial just tape  up and isolate that wire.

Sorry Bizz but I spent 35 years selling and installing car audio and every electrically extending aerial I've ever seen had a relay somewhere in the circuit, either external or internal. There were some electronic aerials which didn't extend automatically but incorporated an amplifier which didn't need a relay. 

As others have said, join both ignition and feed/memory (usually red and yellow) together with an on/off switch in the ignition. 

Just to complicate it though we have 2 switches, one in the lounge and one in the bedroom. 

[Iain_S]

3 hours ago, bizzard said:

The power load to raise and lower an automatic aerial could be considerable, especially when the telescopes get dirty and gooy. So I'd say that that side of things is powered from the ignition side as switching the ignition on and off with the set switched on usually makes the aerial go up and down as well as turning the set on and off. I can't see a 1amp fuse being strong enough to work those aerials without blowing. Maybe there's an internal relay that does it.   Of course if you have a Del Boy wire coat hanger aerial just tape  up and isolate that wire.

An automatic aerial will have its own changeover relay, switched by one wire from the radio which goes positive for "up" and negative or floating for down. (Pin 5 on ISO 10487)

[Iain_S]

3 hours ago, ronnietucker said:

* sobs uncontrollably *

I just want to know where the 1A and 5A wires go...

* sobs *

Join them together and to battery is the simplest, You can argue that they can bypass the master switch, as the radio has a memory. If you want to be clever, connect the 5A to the battery side of the master and the 1A to the other. On Copperkins, we ended up with both connected to the services side of the master, as re-tuning only took a minute or so. (That followed an unsuccessful attempt to be too clever, and incorporate a NiCad battery pack on the "permanent live" side. )

[forsberg]

There is no standard as it goes in connecting car stereos, sometimes the main current will go in the ignition wire sometimes in the one marked memory/battery+.

Worst case scenario you will blow the 1A fuse when you turn the volume up, then you will know and can swap the fuses (replacing the broken one).

But with buildt in speakers I assume 1A is plenty anyway and you should perhaps downgrade the 5A instead.

[Chewbacka]

On 01/04/2018 at 17:37, WotEver said:

That is in direct contradiction to the rest of the posts, all of which state that the ‘ignition’ feed is the one which supplies the power for the unit. 

I assumed it was as you wrote but everyone else says the opposite. 

My radio is the same in that the 'always on' feed is the main power feed, but the radio will not 'wake up' until the switched feed has power.  So the main feed goes directly to the battery bank (via a fuse) and the other wire is after the battery isolator.  Not had a problem with the BSS check as it specifically allows for "All d.c. electrical circuits must pass through a battery isolator, except those which feed equipment requiring a continuous supply which must be protected by a suitable fuse or circuitbreaker."

[Paul C]

2 hours ago, Chewbacka said:

My radio is the same in that the 'always on' feed is the main power feed, but the radio will not 'wake up' until the switched feed has power.  So the main feed goes directly to the battery bank (via a fuse) and the other wire is after the battery isolator.  Not had a problem with the BSS check as it specifically allows for "All d.c. electrical circuits must pass through a battery isolator, except those which feed equipment requiring a continuous supply which must be protected by a suitable fuse or circuitbreaker."

That's only a subset of the wording on the BSS regulations. There is a list of items which are "exempt" from needing to go through the isolator, car stereos are not on this list (but there is a somewhat vague "any other equipment where the manufacturer’sinstructions indicate or specifically require direct connection to a battery, such as diesel‐fired central heating boilers;") so its a bit moot - I'd say it was okay, but chose not to wire it bypassing because I wanted the isolator to isolate everything.

Edited April 3, 2018 by Paul C

[Chewbacka]

4 hours ago, Paul C said:

That's only a subset of the wording on the BSS regulations. There is a list of items which are "exempt" from needing to go through the isolator, car stereos are not on this list (but there is a somewhat vague "any other equipment where the manufacturer’sinstructions indicate or specifically require direct connection to a battery, such as diesel‐fired central heating boilers;") so its a bit moot - I'd say it was okay, but chose not to wire it bypassing because I wanted the isolator to isolate everything.

 Tend to pull the fuse out if leaving the boat for more than a day and reprogram the radio upon my return.

[ronnietucker]

Mission accomplished!

And it actually works! Takes USB/microSD (for MP3) and even managed to get the Bluetooth (shown) to pair and work!

Well, I'll be... 

I've left it on low power (ie: clock only) to see if it drains the battery, or if my solar panel will keep up with it. Results next week.  

[cuthound]

5 hours ago, ronnietucker said:

Mission accomplished!

 

 

Well, I'll be... 

 

beef hooked?