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Engine electrics issue


imranino

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It's worth filling these connectors with grease right from new to prevent ingress of moisture.


Big thanks for all the help, I wouldn't have know where to look without you guys!

 

EPILOGUE:

 

I pulled out the male and female terminals that were corroded and had burned out, attached them outside of the multi-way plug and that was enough to get the engine started again, HOORAY!

Thanks for telling us of your success. It gives a rosy glow feeling. So many people don't bother

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Pardon mi ignorance, but how would I use this in this instance? Would I just fill the connector with the grease?

Yes, you'd smother it. The sliding contact surfaces would wipe themselves clean of grease and make good contact and the remaining grease would stop water ingress completely.

 

What about using something like this, that alleges to be waterproof?

That has a total current rating of only 20A which would be 2A per pin - it would probably melt.

 

Edited for tryping

Edited by WotEver
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Personally I'd do away with the those wretched plugs and solder all the wires together, one at a time so you don't get them mixed up and then wrap each joint tightly with self amalgamating tape and then the whole bundle all together tightly with the same tape. Those plugs are only there for speedy connection and disconnection when installing or removing the engine.

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Personally I'd do away with the those wretched plugs and solder all the wires together, one at a time so you don't get them mixed up and then wrap each joint tightly with self amalgamating tape and then the whole bundle all together tightly with the same tape. Those plugs are only there for speedy connection and disconnection when installing or removing the engine.

They are horrible things. I wonder if through crimp connectors would be better than solder?

Edited by Guest
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Maybe, if they're similarly wrapped up in the tape. Personally I prefer solder.

Properly done, solder is not so bad, but I am crimp biased these days smile.png

Certainly solder has worked well in more demanding areas than a canal boat, and is better than those plugs.

Edited by Guest
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It's worth filling these connectors with grease right from new to prevent ingress of moisture.

Thanks for telling us of your success. It gives a rosy glow feeling. So many people don't bother

Good to know, I definitely will when I get a new connector.

 

I think it's important to let people know, otherwise where's the incentive in helping? :)

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Good to know, I definitely will when I get a new connector.

 

I think it's important to let people know, otherwise where's the incentive in helping? smile.png

Always good, and useful for others in time to come who may have similar problems.

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Properly done, solder is not so bad, but I am crimp biased these days smile.png

Certainly solder has worked well in more demanding areas than a canal boat, and is better than those plugs.

I think its very important to clean the wires by giving them a light scraping with a razor or craft knife blade until they're shiny bright copper before soldering or crimping. Folk on here never seem to ever mention this, only me, perhaps that's one reason why there are so many dodgy electrical terminal and connection faults reported on here. I was told that it was imperative to scrape the wires in such a way before soldering by an old TV and wireless engineer donkeys years ago. Those conductors even in new cable are not perfectly clean.

  • Greenie 1
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I think its very important to clean the wires by giving them a light scraping with a razor or craft knife blade until they're shiny bright copper before soldering or crimping. Folk on here never seem to ever mention this, only me, perhaps that's one reason why there are so many dodgy electrical terminal and connection faults reported on here. I was told that it was imperative to scrape the wires in such a way before soldering by an old TV and wireless engineer donkeys years ago. Those conductors even in new cable are not perfectly clean.

Here's a top tip for you for a change biz. Go to a good model shop and buy a length of 3mm fibreglass rod from the plastruct range. Cut into short lengths it is an excellent, sharp detail abrasive. Also good for cleaning brass label plates down between the raised letters.

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Here's a top tip for you for a change biz. Go to a good model shop and buy a length of 3mm fibreglass rod from the plastruct range. Cut into short lengths it is an excellent, sharp detail abrasive. Also good for cleaning brass label plates down between the raised letters.

I'm opposed to having to buy anything, if I can help it, but, being as its a tip from your good self Snibbs and no doubt a top tip, hell, I shall splash out on a length of it. I already spend a fair bit of time with my nose pressed up against toy and model shop windows gloating over the displays. But these shops are getting rarer and rarer.

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If it helps Nick I apologise if I did not make my post in the other thread clear enough. I think that you talk from an extensive knowledge base, be it a bit theory based at time, and deserve to be taken heed of. I was trying to point out that not everyone who can quote specifications get it solely from Google. After all I bet we all use Google nowadays.

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???

As deduced in following posts, I was being complementary about NN's suggestion that led to the discovery of that dripping wet and burned Beta connection block. Mine's in a cool dry place inside and I've had a minor problem with it being a little loose, but the OP's is something else!

 

I should probably have put "at post #16" back there - sorry for causing confusion.

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If it helps Nick I apologise if I did not make my post in the other thread clear enough. I think that you talk from an extensive knowledge base, be it a bit theory based at time, and deserve to be taken heed of. I was trying to point out that not everyone who can quote specifications get it solely from Google. After all I bet we all use Google nowadays.

Don't worry Tony, it's just a faux sulk!

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