curlass24 Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Hi there, does anyone know of a mobile engineer who could help with a starter motor issue basd near Greenford? I got a problem as when I try and start my boat, the starter motor makes a click and won't turn the engine over. Have checked the starter baterry which is at over 12 volts so not sure what else to try. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zenataomm Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Have you tried cleaning the battery terminals and every connection between? You say the battery is at over 12 volts, so I assume you have a meter, test the voltage at the starter motor. If it's still 12 volts it is likely to be the motor (assuming good connection) if not suspect your wiring/connections. What is the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyboy Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 What is the voltage at the motor whilst cranking ? 12 volts off load is meaningless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Boater Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 It sounds as though it may be the solenoid part of the starter motor that is at fault if you have full voltage at the connection to the starter motor. What engine is in your boat.? Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 What else have you done to the electrics in the last few weeks? The answer to the question Flyboy asked is is vital before we can go much further. Last week we had a similar case to yours and the boater had moved their domestic batteries and left a loose connection. on that bank. Because of the way that boat was wired it gave the same symptoms as yours but it does not mean that yours is the same problem by any stretch of imagination. I would like to see two voltage readings for now. Both while cranking. The first from the lead battery post to the other lead battery post and the second between the two terminal clamps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sea Dog Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Such a click is often the solenoid working correctly and there not being sufficient power to turn the starter. This has been covered and would be where I'd be looking first too. However, does your boat start on a key and stop on a button? You're not having a brain fart and turning the ignition on at the key then pressing the button to start like we now get used to with most modern cars, are you? If so, the click would be the stop solenoid. You would not be the first! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dor Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Make of engine? If it is a Vetus and everything else seems ok, give the relay box mounted on the back of the engine a kick. Poor connection here will give exactly your symptom (but so will other things, but this one is often missed). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted October 18, 2016 Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 You can now see we need more information than you have given. No one has given any wrong advice but to get to the bottom of this problem you need to follow a logical fault finding sequence, not try this and that until you hopefully hit upon the cause. The voltage readings I asked for will tell us if the battery is discharged and if not if a battery clamp is making a poor contact. After that there are several other steps that need to be taken. BY all means try what Dor said if you have a Vetus because it only takes seconds. If its a relatively modern engine you are likely to have at least one multi-way connector in the main wiring harness. Try manipulating this because they can develop poor connections inside. After that more voltage readings are required. I would advise a voltmeter between the battery positive and the connection on the starter solenoid that leads into the starter. IF shoudl read battery voltage but when you try to starts it shoudl drop to maybe 0.5 volt or less. If it higher then we know the problem is in the positive side of the circuit (and might be a faulty solenoid but another test is needed to prove that). Then repeat between the starter case or its negative terminal and the battery negative. This time the meter shoudl read all but zero and when you try to start it expect 0.5 volts or less. Again if its higher you have a problem with the negative side of the circuit. There are diagrams and a description of the fault finding in the electric al course notes on my website. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlass24 Posted October 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 Thanks so much for the advice evryone, new to boating so really appreciate it! The engine is a Lombardini, fitted aroun 3 years ago. I was lucky enough that a boater near me charged the battery with a generator and it then started so i ran the engine for 4 hous. The next morning it then wouldn't start again. I was borrowing his volt meter so will buy one and check the voltage later. If its a new starter battery that I need, would any of you have any recomendations as to the best to go for? many thanks Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted October 18, 2016 Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 Thanks so much for the advice evryone, new to boating so really appreciate it! The engine is a Lombardini, fitted aroun 3 years ago. I was lucky enough that a boater near me charged the battery with a generator and it then started so i ran the engine for 4 hous. The next morning it then wouldn't start again. I was borrowing his volt meter so will buy one and check the voltage later. If its a new starter battery that I need, would any of you have any recomendations as to the best to go for? many thanks Malcolm From that I would suggest two possibilities : 1) Your battery is 'kaput' and not holding its charge, or 2) Your alternator is not actually charging the battery. What voltage are you getting at the battery terminals when the engine is running ? Do you have a separate 'domestic' battery bank ? Does the same alternator charge your 'domestic' battery bank ? To get the engine started can you not 'jump-start' it by connecting a jump lead from your domestic + terminal to your starter battery + terminal ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlass24 Posted October 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 Thanks for the advice. I tried junp starting it this morning from the leisure batteries with no luck. Will try that this evening (only thing is a think they're low too now) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlass24 Posted October 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 Also have another question regarding the isolator swith. My boat just has one, whzt does this do exactly? Should it be off when the engine isint running to seperate the leisure and starter battery? Thnks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlass24 Posted October 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 Any thoughts on albion starter batteries and these suppliers? http://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/store/category/1320/product/vb-007.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murflynn Posted October 18, 2016 Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 Also have another question regarding the isolator swith. My boat just has one, whzt does this do exactly? Should it be off when the engine isint running to seperate the leisure and starter battery? Thnks! sounds like you need an electrician to come aboard and produce a wiring diagram, then run through it with you so you understand how to operate the electrical systems. without that we are all just guessing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted October 18, 2016 Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 Also have another question regarding the isolator swith. My boat just has one, whzt does this do exactly? Should it be off when the engine isint running to seperate the leisure and starter battery? Thnks! Assuming it is wired in a typical fashion my guess is that it is in the negative lead from both battery banks to the hull/engine bond point and it isolates ALL the boat's electrical equipment when you turn it off. There should be another method of splitting the charge. If by "isolator switch" you mean a largish twist type marked "bat 1, bat 2, both, off" then it is also used to direct the charge and connect either battery to the boats electrical system. Which battery is the engine battery (1 or 2) isd anyone's guess and exactly how it is wired is also has several options so it may have a different effect than the one I describe. Photo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlass24 Posted October 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 Thanks for the advice, it has a seperate isolator switch inside which has 1 2 and both. The leisure batteries are 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted October 18, 2016 Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 The that MIGHT - only might be wired as a charge selector. If it is never turn it to off with the engine running. A separate isolator on in the negative lead is most likely just that - an isolator for both battery banks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlass24 Posted October 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 thanks Can anyone recomend and good starter batteries / brands? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murflynn Posted October 18, 2016 Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 (edited) if you're buying on line just google for car batteries and select one of similar dimensions to the existing one. if you're buying locally take the dimensions to your local car battery dealer and ask. Halfords are not the best value. unlike leisure batteries, starter batteries are not particularly critical - they should never be discharged to any degree if they are only connected to the engine starter and possibly the automatic bilge pump. Edited October 18, 2016 by Murflynn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted October 18, 2016 Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 if you're buying on line just google for car batteries and select one of similar dimensions to the existing one. if you're buying locally take the dimensions to your local car battery dealer and ask. Halfords are not the best value. unlike leisure batteries, starter batteries are not particularly critical - they should never be discharged to any degree if they are only connected to the engine starter and possibly the automatic bilge pump. Also saves hassle if you note where the terminal posts are so the leads fit straight on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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