New or re-con engine...advice?!

[Bongo]

Hi all

I'm needing to replace my engine (2.5 BMC) I would rather get a new unit with warranty etc, but price will no doubt inspire me to consider a re-con. The boat is 63' x 12' built in 1980's by R&D fabrications, she's approx 30 tonnes, flat bottom.

can anyone recommend the best route to go down? any reputable firms that are in the south west area ? (K&A near Bath)

any advice gratefully received! thanks

[ditchcrawler]

Hi all

I'm needing to replace my engine (2.5 BMC) I would rather get a new unit with warranty etc, but price will no doubt inspire me to consider a re-con. The boat is 63' x 12' built in 1980's by R&D fabrications, she's approx 30 tonnes, flat bottom.

can anyone recommend the best route to go down? any reputable firms that are in the south west area ? (K&A near Bath)

any advice gratefully received! thanks

Unless I was having my engine rebuilt by someone I trusted I would go for new. There are re-cons and there are cons but the paint finish is normally the same.

[MtB]

Presumably you realise the BMC 2.5 is no longer available new, so installation of a Beta (or whatever) will not be straightforward.

 

I'd go for a rebuild too. Get a second hand BMC2.5 to plonk in its place while you have a decent re-build done on your original without any time pressure. They are cheap as chips, second hand 2.5s.

Edited July 11, 2016 by Mike the Boilerman

[RLWP]

We have what I think is a 2.5 with no flywheel. I'l check the serial number this afternoon

 

Richard

 

MORE: It looks like it's a 22. The serial number begins 22 anyway

Edited July 11, 2016 by RLWP

[cereal tiller]

We have what I think is a 2.5 with no flywheel. I'l check the serial number this afternoon

 

Richard

 

MORE: It looks like it's a 22. The serial number begins 22 anyway

Yep,likely a 2.2

2.5'S have a serial number starting with 25v(vehicle) or 25P (Plant)

 

CT

[magnetman]

Beta marine will make engine mounts to match a previous installation.

 

I put a new beta 90 in my barge to replace a perkins M90. (58x12' 30 tonne modern barge). I'd go for a Beta 75 as the 90 is a little overpowered really. About ten grand though.

If the boat is strictly for canal only maybe a 50 or 60 would be OK but not sure about anything tidal I think you would want more power.

Edited July 11, 2016 by magnetman

[RLWP]

Yep,likely a 2.2

2.5'S have a serial number starting with 25v(vehicle) or 25P (Plant)

 

CT

Judging by the 2.2 manual, I bet there are a whole load more letters. There are probably twenty 2.2 letters

 

Richard

[MtB]

Beta marine will make engine mounts to match a previous installation.

 

I put a new beta 90 in my barge to replace a perkins M90. (58x12' 30 tonne modern barge). I'd go for a Beta 75 as the 90 is a little overpowered really. About ten grand though.

If the boat is strictly for canal only maybe a 50 or 60 would be OK but not sure about anything tidal I think you would want more power.

 

 

It's not just the engine mounts though is it? (Although matching them up is a great help.) There is the propshaft flange and length to match up, exhaust to fabricate, gearbox and throttle connections to devise, alternator and starter motor cables to alter, control panel and loom to change/install, fuel supply pipes and return pipes to modify and connect up.

[Tony Dunkley]

Hi all

I'm needing to replace my engine (2.5 BMC) I would rather get a new unit with warranty etc, but price will no doubt inspire me to consider a re-con. The boat is 63' x 12' built in 1980's by R&D fabrications, she's approx 30 tonnes, flat bottom.

can anyone recommend the best route to go down? any reputable firms that are in the south west area ? (K&A near Bath)

any advice gratefully received! thanks

 

Are you really sure the engine needs either replacing or a major overhaul ?

 

Engines in pleasure craft rarely wear out, . . . they just don't run enough hours or work hard enough for that to happen. What usually does happen is a combination of deteriorating through living in cold damp engine compartments without sufficient regular and frequent use, and 'mucking' themselves up internally because they don't get worked hard enough when they are used.

[Bongo]

Thanks for all your posts.

Its sounding like the Beta option may just work out too costly, after all the labour involved as well as the cost of the engine. - (although massively improving the value of the boat)

As for over-hauling the present engine... it was a re-con when it was first fitted 30 years ago. We've had the head off and re-skimmed after the gasket went, and she's never been the same since. She then had a couple of years with the engine inactive (the only draw back of a home mooring!) and now I'm told its the piston rings. Horrible clattering when running, but cuts out after a minute. I'm no mechanic but it seems too much of a gamble to remove the engine, do a second re-con and then fit the same one again?

head scratching time.

I guess getting another matching engine would be easier to fit, but with no guarantees that it won't be a donkey.

Hmmnnnn.

best wishes 2 u all.

[RLWP]

it seems too much of a gamble to remove the engine, do a second re-con and then fit the same one again?

 

Engines of that era were designed to have multiple rebuilds

 

Richard

[X Alan W]

Thanks for all your posts.

Its sounding like the Beta option may just work out too costly, after all the labour involved as well as the cost of the engine. - (although massively improving the value of the boat)

As for over-hauling the present engine... it was a re-con when it was first fitted 30 years ago. We've had the head off and re-skimmed after the gasket went, and she's never been the same since. She then had a couple of years with the engine inactive (the only draw back of a home mooring!) and now I'm told its the piston rings. Horrible clattering when running, but cuts out after a minute. I'm no mechanic but it seems too much of a gamble to remove the engine, do a second re-con and then fit the same one again?

head scratching time.

I guess getting another matching engine would be easier to fit, but with no guarantees that it won't be a donkey.

Hmmnnnn.

best wishes 2 u all.

If you get the engine out & stripped & it's not a dead "un " you can i'm sure source a replacement cyl head, along with a rebuild if you feel the engine was not as good after the skimming I know of 2.5's that have done getting on for a million miles & been as Richard says rebuilt numerous times bit like "Tiggers" broom 6 heads & 4 handles

Edited July 12, 2016 by X Alan W

[cuthound]

A other issue that can arise when replacing the engine with another of different manufacturer and power rating is that of inadequately sized skin tank.

 

On our last shareboat, the BBC 1.8 wore out after about 15,000 hours and was replaced with a Beta 43. Cost around £7k including new engine mounts, mods to the propshaft and cooling system.

 

Much better engine though, smoother, more torquey and quieter.

[RLWP]

On our last shareboat, the BBC 1.8

 

[GUMPY]

When my d series packed up I sourced a secondhand engine from findafishingboat.com went out in the boat that it was in to check it over. Straight swap.

[MtB]

She then had a couple of years with the engine inactive (the only draw back of a home mooring!) and now I'm told its the piston rings. Horrible clattering when running, but cuts out after a minute.

 

 

Errr.... that doesn't sound like symptoms of piston worn out rings to me.

 

More like two separate faults. A fueling problem making it cut out, and possibly no oil pressure making the clattering. Or a badly out-of-adjustment tappet.

[Tony Brooks]

Agreed, maybe the OP should talk to Richard and pay him for a decent diagnosis and then rectification.

[cereal tiller]

Thanks for all your posts.

Its sounding like the Beta option may just work out too costly, after all the labour involved as well as the cost of the engine. - (although massively improving the value of the boat)

As for over-hauling the present engine... it was a re-con when it was first fitted 30 years ago. We've had the head off and re-skimmed after the gasket went, and she's never been the same since. She then had a couple of years with the engine inactive (the only draw back of a home mooring!) and now I'm told its the piston rings. Horrible clattering when running, but cuts out after a minute. I'm no mechanic but it seems too much of a gamble to remove the engine, do a second re-con and then fit the same one again?

head scratching time.

I guess getting another matching engine would be easier to fit, but with no guarantees that it won't be a donkey.

Hmmnnnn.

best wishes 2 u all.

The clattering could be the Timing chain tensioner,it is hydraulic on the 2.2/2.5 and could be sticking, or the oil pressure relief valve could require reseating.

 

CT

[Kazzgirl]

if its been standing for a long time, the best bet is that the oil is gummed up and turned to thick sludge etc.. an engine oil change wont make a difference to the crap in the block.. So; use 50% paraffin and engine oil to wash engine out but don't rev engine- leave for 15 mins on tick over, drain and do it again, then refill with proper oil for you engine,(Don't forget to replace oil filter after putting in new oil.!) Then, tie boat to a very very strong mooring point, and I mean STRONG point.. nothing that will move, or if possible put nose of boat into/onto a wall or bank then put into forward or reverse gear, use full throttle for at least an hour, more hours would be better, hammer the engine to clean out the crud that never leaves due to the engine never being revved more than a few thou.. But DON'T do this with the engine in neutral.. it won't thank you for that.! Diesel engines need resistance to work and free revving engines vibrate to destruction- Good luck and I hope this works well for you as it has for me..

[Edders]

Then, tie boat to a very very strong mooring point, and I mean STRONG point.. nothing that will move, or if possible put nose of boat into/onto a wall or bank then put into forward or reverse gear, use full throttle for at least an hour, more hours would be better, hammer the engine to clean out the crud that never leaves due to the engine never being revved more than a few thou.. But DON'T do this with the engine in neutral.

I'm sure CRT would love that .

 

Tony

Edited July 22, 2016 by Edders

[Tony Brooks]

Diesel engines need resistance to work and free revving engines vibrate to destruction- Good luck and I hope this works well for you as it has for me..

 

If they do the governor is faulty - that or a timing belt snaps because it has not been properly maintained.

 

Maybe grains of truth in the post but very doubtful advice for canals, try it on a river though. However I would use proper flushing oil.

Edited July 22, 2016 by Tony Brooks