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Glow Plugs- how long to leave them on?


Southern Star

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Not all of them

 

Richard

Jan's grandfather had a traveller. I was amazed to discover that the wood frame actually constituted part of the vehicle structure. If they rotted it weakened the integrity of the rear section.

 

Unlike the mini traveler where the wood was just cosmetic.

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Jan's grandfather had a traveller. I was amazed to discover that the wood frame actually constituted part of the vehicle structure. If they rotted it weakened the integrity of the rear section.

 

Yes, a Morris Traveller would fail the MOT because of a rotted wood frame, back in the day people used all sorts of tricks to bodge the wood with filler.

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Most modern cars are now built similarly to F1 racing cars. The bodies are now a pod with the suspension components of rather flimsy lightweight construction, but on purpose. In the event of the car receiving a hefty punch on a wheel area like clouting a high kerb at speed or another vehicle hits a wheel area broadside on, the suspension is designed to easily bend, bust or collapse without serious damage or distortion to the body shell which can easily right off a car especially an older one and possibly the occupants too. A major serious accident of course can right everything off but most accidents aren't major.

Older cars which 'for example' used hefty forged steel front suspension track control arms ect could easily, even on a light side impact punch and distort the the sub chassis frame and body. Cars like old Ford Cortina, Sierra, Orion, Escort. Many BL cars and in fact most older cars with Strut suspension and many with hefty front and rear wishbone suspension too.

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Yes I remember sliding into a kerb in the wet in my mate's Mk1 Cortina, on full lock so the wheel hit it sideways. The car still drove but the steering pulled heavily to one side. We fixed this successfully by adjusting the tracking (quite a lot), and the car continued in use until it succumbed to the inevitable rusty inner wings passing several more MoTs where they never noticed our artwork!

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10 seconds is more usual with an engine in good nick, clean or new heater plugs and that they are all working. You will need about 3/4 open throttle too.

 

I've come to this thread late so my apologies if this has already been discussed, but I thought the high initial revs weren't good for a cold engine?

 

I just give mine 10 seconds of glow plugs and leave it on idling. Starts every time. I certainly wouldn't give mine 3/4 throttle on start-up.

Edited by blackrose
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I've come to this thread late so my apologies if this has already been discussed, but I thought the high initial revs weren't good for a cold engine?

 

I just give mine 10 seconds of glow plugs and leave it on idling. Starts every time. I certainly wouldn't give mine 3/4 throttle on start-up.

I agree Mike. The Isuzu along with other modern Japanese engines do start very easily and don't need much or any extra throttle opening providing everything is hunky dory. I've been starting an Isuzu 55 regularly here for someone who's been away ill and it only needed 5 secs of heaters and started on idle even during the little cold snap we had. The more prolonged heater application and high throttle opening was for older BMC engines and the like which generally need to have some fuel pumped in prior to starting to help raise the compression a bit more to aid starting in cold weather.

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Not all of them

 

Richard

indeed. The LCV (light commercial vehicle) variants all had separate chassis. I had a Pickup until a couple of years ago. Now it resides in Colorado and used by a lady for her landscape gardening business.

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I have seen no one suggesting that you should rev the cold engine to whatever you call high revs. What is advised for BMCs and other similar engines is that it is started with the throttle at half speed or more. You do not leave it there, as it starts to pick up speed you close it to a fast idle. The idea is that extra "throttle" pre-loads the governor spring to ensure an engine with a sticky governor actually starts with excess fuel. This is especially true with hydraulic DPA pumps where the springs involved are very light when compared with older designs. In theory it should not need extra throttle but in practice it seems to help in many cases.

Edited by Tony Brooks
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Tony, isn't it also the case that the extra fuelling will help improve compression?

 

Tony

 

In so far as it will slightly decrease the clearance volume and it might help seal any ring to cylinder gaps but how much of this is truly effective I have no idea. However most modern pumps should go to excess fuel when the engine stops and then automatically reduce the fuel delivered as the engine speeds up. That is unless you have opened the throttle and then it can not reduce the fuel below whatever the throttle setting is calling for.

 

 

 

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