Stirling Alternator Faulty?

[junior]

Having all sorts of charging problems at the moment which i think I've norrowed down to the alternator not getting excited.

 

I'm just about to order a new alternator, but before i do I've had a thought.

 

Is there anything in the Stirling Alternator Controller system that could cause the alternator to have problems exciting?

 

[by'eck]

A little surprised you appear to have a healthy 30 amps of charge current showing but a low voltage warning on the Sterling alt controller. Are they both controlling/indicating the alternator charging the domestics (battery 2 looking at the selection)?

 

The Sterling alternator controller will only kill the output of the alternator by design - overvoltage, overheat etc. The warning LED's will indicate the fault but the unit will reset when engine is stopped and ignition is cycled off and on again when engine next started.

 

If unsure, the boosting effect of the controller can be temporarily removed by disconnecting the white control wire to the Sterling unit leaving the alternators own internal regulator in control. Its normally a good indication of the improvement you are getting with charge voltage. Might be helpful to see what happens to the charge current if you try this.

[junior]

A little surprised you appear to have a healthy 30 amps of charge current showing but a low voltage warning on the Sterling alt controller. Are they both controlling/indicating the alternator charging the domestics (battery 2 looking at the selection)?

 

The Sterling alternator controller will only kill the output of the alternator by design - overvoltage, overheat etc. The warning LED's will indicate the fault but the unit will reset when engine is stopped and ignition is cycled off and on again when engine next started.

 

If unsure, the boosting effect of the controller can be temporarily removed by disconnecting the white control wire to the Sterling unit leaving the alternators own internal regulator in control. Its normally a good indication of the improvement you are getting with charge voltage. Might be helpful to see what happens to the charge current if you try this.

Thanks for taking the time to reply. Sadly most of that is Japanese to me, but am i right in thinking basically that if i disconect the white wire and the problems still persist, then the problem is nothing to do with the Stirling device?

 

Incidently I've just ordered a new alternator anyway.

[by'eck]

Thanks for taking the time to reply. Sadly most of that is Japanese to me, but am i right in thinking basically that if i disconect the white wire and the problems still persist, then the problem is nothing to do with the Stirling device?

 

Incidently I've just ordered a new alternator anyway.

 

Yes, but what is the problem since you seem to have reasonable charge current?

[junior]

 

Yes, but what is the problem since you seem to have reasonable charge current?

The problem is that the inverter that runs my diesel dispensing pump keeps cutting out while I'm trying to dispense diesel. I'm assuming this due to low voltage as i get an audible tone.

 

I believe the fault is somewhere between (and including) the alternator and the batteries.

 

Every time i drop to tick-over, the alternator stops charging. I then have trouble re-exciting it. The engine has to be revved like mad to get the alternator to kick in again. Sometines it just doesn't kick back in. Once it does the amp mater shows about 30amps and the volt meter goes up to and sometimes above the white line.

 

The yellow light has been showing on the Alternator Controllerfor a few days now showing low voltage.

 

This morning i was trying to dispense 5 or 6 hundred litres of diesel in one go. Every 30 seconds or so the inverter (and pump) would cut out. I had the engine running at full revs for the whole duration. Switching the pump off for about 30 seconds would then give me enough charge for it to restart, but again it would only last for anout 30 seconds before cutting out again.

 

I'm convinced the alternator is shot.

[cereal tiller]

A little surprised you appear to have a healthy 30 amps of charge current showing but a low voltage warning on the Sterling alt controller. Are they both controlling/indicating the alternator charging the domestics (battery 2 looking at the selection)?

 

The Sterling alternator controller will only kill the output of the alternator by design - overvoltage, overheat etc. The warning LED's will indicate the fault but the unit will reset when engine is stopped and ignition is cycled off and on again when engine next started.

 

If unsure, the boosting effect of the controller can be temporarily removed by disconnecting the white control wire to the Sterling unit leaving the alternators own internal regulator in control. Its normally a good indication of the improvement you are getting with charge voltage. Might be helpful to see what happens to the charge current if you try this.

That looks like an older Sterling controller in which case the Field wire may be Green rather than white?

 

Check before disconnecting

 

CT

[junior]

That looks like an older Sterling controller in which case the Field wire may be Green rather than white?

 

Check before disconnecting

 

CT

I just took the controller out of where it is and unfortunately i can't get at the ends of any of the wires without taking lots of things apart. Interestingly though once i screwed it back into its place the 2nd from top green LED came on. Previously over the last 48hrs of monitoring it this had not come on at all.

[Loafer]

Well it is always worth having a spare alternator, if your first one is indeed at fault. Take it to an automotive repair shop, spend £40 on refurb and keep it in a box for later.

[matty40s]

If it's the Stirling unit, let me know, mines currently redundant on the wall.

[blackrose]

I just took the controller out of where it is and unfortunately i can't get at the ends of any of the wires without taking lots of things apart. Interestingly though once i screwed it back into its place the 2nd from top green LED came on. Previously over the last 48hrs of monitoring it this had not come on at all.

The white (or green) field wire should be easier to access at the alternator rather than at the controller.

[bottle]

I just took the controller out of where it is and unfortunately i can't get at the ends of any of the wires without taking lots of things apart. Interestingly though once i screwed it back into its place the 2nd from top green LED came on. Previously over the last 48hrs of monitoring it this had not come on at all.

 

Connections?

[cereal tiller]

 

Connections?

Yep,the O.P. said that he had to rev. the Engine to excite the alternator,may be that a loose connection got shaken up enough to re-connect?

 

CT

[by'eck]

That looks like an older Sterling controller in which case the Field wire may be Green rather than white?

 

Check before disconnecting

 

CT

 

There have been a few variants over the years. The earliest non digital one I had was in a yellow case, probably fitted mid/late 90's. Good idea to check though.

[by'eck]

The problem is that the inverter that runs my diesel dispensing pump keeps cutting out while I'm trying to dispense diesel. I'm assuming this due to low voltage as i get an audible tone.

 

I believe the fault is somewhere between (and including) the alternator and the batteries.

 

Every time i drop to tick-over, the alternator stops charging. I then have trouble re-exciting it. The engine has to be revved like mad to get the alternator to kick in again. Sometines it just doesn't kick back in. Once it does the amp mater shows about 30amps and the volt meter goes up to and sometimes above the white line.

 

The yellow light has been showing on the Alternator Controllerfor a few days now showing low voltage.

 

This morning i was trying to dispense 5 or 6 hundred litres of diesel in one go. Every 30 seconds or so the inverter (and pump) would cut out. I had the engine running at full revs for the whole duration. Switching the pump off for about 30 seconds would then give me enough charge for it to restart, but again it would only last for anout 30 seconds before cutting out again.

 

I'm convinced the alternator is shot.

 

Well it will be interesting to see if the new alternator sorts out the problem although I'm sceptical the present one is faulty. What size old and new BTW?

 

Looking at the excitation issue it would be interesting to see what the battery voltage is when it dropped out and you are having to rev it to get going again. I'm thinking along the lines of knackered batteries dragged to a really low voltage by inverter/pump with not enough to re-energise alternator, hence need to really rev engine.

 

The low voltage warning light on Sterling unit after alternator is charging again may be a red herring left over from when it previously dropped out. I know the high voltage warning light I occasionally got on my previous boat didn't extinguish until the ignition had been turned off/on again.

[junior]

 

Well it will be interesting to see if the new alternator sorts out the problem although I'm sceptical the present one is faulty. What size old and new BTW?

 

Looking at the excitation issue it would be interesting to see what the battery voltage is when it dropped out and you are having to rev it to get going again. I'm thinking along the lines of knackered batteries dragged to a really low voltage by inverter/pump with not enough to re-energise alternator, hence need to really rev engine.

 

The low voltage warning light on Sterling unit after alternator is charging again may be a red herring left over from when it previously dropped out. I know the high voltage warning light I occasionally got on my previous boat didn't extinguish until the ignition had been turned off/on again.

I'm not sure what the actual voltage was but the needle was dropping right down to the end of the red section of the volt meter.

 

Interestingly since i first posted yesterday, the amp meter needle doesn't now show a constant 30amps, it is constantly flickering between 0-30.

 

Old alternator is an A127 type, not sure what make but was told it is probably about 70amp max. I have ordered from Adverc a Leese Neville A128 90amp universal mount. I've been advised that for it to be most effective i will need to increase the pulley size, but this will mean cutting into the floor plate to make space or to remove the hand start mechanism. Either way there is no time to do that until next years docking but in the meantime the 90amp will run ok with the current pulley.

[by'eck]

Sounds good - let us know what changes after fitting new alternator although larger engine pulley will always help.

 

If you want to use the Sterling reg you will need to make the mod to extend the regulator side brush connection so it can be hooked up as before.

[LEO]

Hi,

 

It's winter and damp conditions prevail, have you tried cleaning all the battery connections and tightening them? Pumping 500/600 litres sound like quite a job for an inverter driven pump. Perhaps a generator may be more helpful.

 

Good luck hope the situation is sorted quickly

 

Leo.

[junior]

The 60-0-60 amp meter/gauge didn't last long with the new 90amp alternator, so i need to buy a new one.

 

Can anyone recommend me one that will not catch fire with 90amps going through it please? Had a look on ebay and can't find much, although i suspect it's because I'm using the wrong search term.

[bizzard]

The 60-0-60 amp meter/gauge didn't last long with the new 90amp alternator, so i need to buy a new one.

 

Can anyone recommend me one that will not catch fire with 90amps going through it please? Had a look on ebay and can't find much, although i suspect it's because I'm using the wrong search term.

There are a few 100amp Ameaters on ebay. And A.S.A.P show a 100amp one complete with shunt for £84 odd.

[madcat]

Only just spotted this .

 

Your problem is the pulley just ain't big enough to run the alternator fast enough to give more than about 30 amp . It never mattered for running a light or 2 and a wireless but once you start running an inverter then you have problems .

 

Re Stirling , I've found the instructions but haven't had the chance to pass them on. It's likely to be ok but a loose connection is always possible on boats .

 

Going to send you a pm about a bigger pulley set up etc .

[raymondh]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Round-Analog-AMP-Panel-Meter-Gauge-DC-100A-Shunt-/160573833070?hash=item2562f23f6e:g:ZA8AAOSwPcVVwxDY

 

Ray

[by'eck]

[by'eck]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Round-Analog-AMP-Panel-Meter-Gauge-DC-100A-Shunt-/160573833070?hash=item2562f23f6e:g:ZA8AAOSwPcVVwxDY

 

Ray

 

Can't beat the price but junior wanted one that wouldn't catch fire

[madcat]

Another thing , the business of revving the engine to excite the alternator can be fixed with a bigger wattage charge lamp or a resistor in parallel with it to draw more exit action current . I've no idea what value resistor but I'm sure somebody on here will know.

 

Another thing to consider is the big red isolator switch , they can go faulty. The suggestion of cleaning and checking is a good one too .

 

The system wasn't designed to cope with an inverter, I never anticipated using one .

[ditchcrawler]

I would suggest if that ammeter has lasted until now it is not connected in the right place and is not measuring all the current coming out of the battery.