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i see the leaf springs only have a fixing look on the one end ? the ones i have aways used have 2 a static end and a floating bracket but always 2 fixing loops? or is it just the picture?

 

 

just googled them and they are captive sliding springs.

Edited by the barnacle
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i see the leaf springs only have a fixing look on the one end ? the ones i have aways used have 2 a static end and a floating bracket but always 2 fixing loops? or is it just the picture?

 

 

Those are slipper leaf springs , fixed only at the eye ( front ) end.

 

https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiZsb-3gsXNAhXGnZQKHeUmAL8QFgggMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.etrailer.com%2Ffaq-Slipper-Spring-Trailer-Suspension-Review.aspx&usg=AFQjCNHwmBCha_KDRwBHtynW9ss2HVTu0g

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Thanks - just been looking at them online - i have never used leaf springs on a trailer just old cars i have restored - i wonder if they need a specific slide bracket for them to go into,

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Thanks - just been looking at them online - i have never used leaf springs on a trailer just old cars i have restored - i wonder if they need a specific slide bracket for them to go into,

 

 

Different kinds can be used.

 

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Gee wiz Wooly ...

 

That trailer is going to be good and solid.

The drop on the axles looks perfect.

 

Epoxy paint would be good after de- rusting.

 

Bohemian gets my vote cheers.gif

 

Side hobby i will be transporting steam engines lol, i guess i will need one to pull the boat.

 

I am thinking on getting the whole chassis galvanised, all depends on cost,there is a few companies near me that do one off when the can fit them in. If not then epoxy sounds good.

 

As above for the name now, to many names i like now..

 

 

 

 

How about "Scaramouch" or "Bismillah"? Still with the Queen idea but not quite so obvious.

 

 

The way it is going i think i will do a poll lol.

 

 

i see the leaf springs only have a fixing look on the one end ? the ones i have aways used have 2 a static end and a floating bracket but always 2 fixing loops? or is it just the picture?

 

 

just googled them and they are captive sliding springs.

 

 

Yep sliders as now been found out, good set up but can be harsh, also with leaf set ups you can add and remove leafs for adjustment.

 

Need a tow car next, It will be a Shogun but at first my brother or mate can do the first launch if i havnt sorted one out by then.

 

We are planning a family holiday now for next year at around the same time as launch is planned for so funds will be tightening up a bit now :(.

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Daihatsu Fourtrak if you can find a good late one that isn't shagged out smile.png

 

I do like them, near got a good Indy but didnt bother as the price was high, but then they are a re good 4x4, , not much guts in them either but torq is a plenty, And good ones fetch high money, as to the shoguns ( had four now MK1 2.5 and three MK2 2.8, not get another 2.5 though. ) , big comfy extras and good on veg and price is low. It would need to be a LWB also for all the junk, I would get a MK3 shoggy but as it is going no chance for even a half decent 03 plate.

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I do like them, near got a good Indy but didnt bother as the price was high, but then they are a re good 4x4, , not much guts in them either but torq is a plenty, And good ones fetch high money, as to the shoguns ( had four now MK1 2.5 and three MK2 2.8, not get another 2.5 though. ) , big comfy extras and good on veg and price is low. It would need to be a LWB also for all the junk, I would get a MK3 shoggy but as it is going no chance for even a half decent 03 plate.

I've done a reasonable amount on the Fourtrak, nothing major, clutches etc. My mate had one for their horsebox, highest towing weight of any of the older 4x4. Bit of a crude drive but boy are they strong. Chassis rot a bit of a worry but nothing else too major.

 

I fancied a SWB Shogun but couldn't find a sensible money devil fuel with a manual box - was doing a lot of MX & Enduro at the time so didn't fancy a slush box for course setting up duty. It had to be SWB so Mrs Gazza could park it in the hospital car park, I wish now I had got a manual V6 petrol, not much difference in fuel - they are all bad at that age!

 

We ended up with a Terrano which wasn't bad but TBH it wasn't half as good as I hoped it would be, our old 2.0 sport Frontera was a better drive, the Nissan had more guts and an LSD but I wished I had a go in one off road first, it was reasonably well mannered on the road but the narrow track compared to the Shogun and Frontera always made it feel a bit fidgety.

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Hi Wooly ,

 

Would be best if you can do a good deal on the galv. for the trailer , I looked into it once myself , and the whole thing would need to be sand blasted perfectly clean first , and then dipped into a hot zinc bath .Turned out to be prohibitively expensive for me in the end.

 

You could do individual parts I guess , but then you need to weld the galv , and that job is a PITA , as you no doubt know.

Either way , that trailer is no toy , to be sure !

 

Looking forward to seeing more on that .....smile.png

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best not try to weld pre galvanised metal - its not fun and very toxic, there are a few galvanisers in stoke and in brum, if you do make sure all sealed sections have hole vents top and bottom for the zink to get in and the expanding fumes to escape. at least 8mm.

Edited by the barnacle
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best not try to weld pre galvanised metal - its not fun and very toxic, there are a few galvanisers in stoke and in brum, if you do make sure all sealed sections have hole vents top and bottom for the zink to get in and the expanding fumes to escape. at least 8mm.

Not quite.

 

Welders flu is caused by the presence of Zinc but you have to be sucking on loads of it to be an issue.

 

Stainless Steel is far more of a risk to health.

 

As you say, there needs to be vents in the steel - if in doubt consult your galvanisers.

 

I had my skeg done in Corby, probably the best paying job they had that day 2.1m long 80x10 flat fabrication that would probably have gone in with some Armco that someone else paid for. £80 minimum charge if I remember.

Edited by gazza
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Manchester.Galvanising Green Lane, Heywood. Behind my office. No idea how much it would cost. They seem to do loads of street furniture.

 

 

Is that the same place, new name for Pillar Wedge? An old mate that i have not seen for years works there, or did.

Good old monkey town, lived there for many years as it is where i was born..is that good or bad lol I lived on Bedford street down rood near the wood yard for a while.

 

Any no worries on the welding and galv, i have been there many a time with modding caravan chassis, built a few small gantrys also with galv section, i just grind well back, which is bad enough as the dust is a killer on the throat. still not easy to get a good weld, found stick is best for welding cleaned back galv section.

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Yes its Pillar Wedge. They rebranded themselves last Autumn. Can't imagine the got into difficulties because there is a constant stream of lorries coming and going. I'd like to see the size of their tanks because they do some seriously large stuff as well as street furniture and the like.

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Weld prep for galv is grind back 1" from joint.

You are spot on mate, AC arc easiest as it's a bit more forgiving and you don't suffer arc blow like you can on DC - especially on tight fillet joints like root of gussets etc.

 

As you will be doing it outside ventilation is no bother either :)

 

:cheers:

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Todays job was a real pain in the so and so, reason being i have made the roof rails and bow rail, a few adjustments from the way i wanted them but if i mess this up it is a costly mistake, i did mess up here and there but i fettled the mistakes so i didnt waste much of the SS tube. And i have a few meters left over to make a few rail for the rear deck maybe, or the folding seats on the lockers. that is for another day though.

 

I got two 6m lengths of 3/4 inch ( 19.05mm x 1.6mm ) mirror polished SS tube, For bending these tubes a kind chap lent me one that he made many moons ago and does no longer use, which is good as i have had it here for a month or so now. It is a mandrel bender as on this job kinks in the bend are a big no no. The thing i didnt expect or think about is that the practice steel was mild steel with 2mm wall ( cost is a fraction of the SS tube ) and the SS is 1.6mm, not sure if this was the cause of the problem but when the mild steel was bent it didnt stretch as much as the SS so as of below with my working out..

 

First job was the steady the table, in the practice T sat on the table to stop it moving....enough said lol

 

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Worked out that the middle point on the radius is to be sat just 6mm from the edge of the bender a sin this pic, then if you are making the top rails with uprights then then deduct 35mm to get the finished length needed. if you know what i mean unsure.png

 

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I did leave this a little short but as it was practice it didnt matter, the end flattend out as the outer wheel crushed it. but you can see how i found the center to work from.

 

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After much faffing....i like to faff dont i biggrin.png i got stuck in to the real job at hand with the SS, very nerving, as said i didnt want to waist the tube, not to mention i need to weld it all up yet.

 

Here are the fishtails joints i had to do, and these took some doing as they need to be accurate as possible for me to Tig weld it up.

 

Here my good old record came in again, i have this for years, maybe 20 even, i used some off cut Sapele to hold the tube and then the angle grinder and round file to fishtail the ends. Infact the round file i have also had for many mnay years, done some work that has, dont make them like that anymore lol.

 

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grind/cut first with slitting disc

 

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then grind and file to shape...easy:)

 

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And hey presto we have rails, the areas i changed was on the pulpit top rail, i did want a curve it them but as i did want to mess it up and put a single kink in it i settled for straight, still they are ok. And the other was the long roof rails i was going to make them in one single length but this would of taken a bit more very careful bending and the back rail mount is off set outwards slightly and trying to get two bends so close together would of been to much to risk the mess up.

 

Still happy with it, just ignore the screen. that is still in the design stage. it sits to high for a start so now it will be cut down to only have a 5`6" headroom. And frame shape will not be square but another shape....cant think of the name.

 

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I will be getting some 25mmx3mm flat SS bar for the mounting feet this week, to keep cost down i will use unfinished bar and polish it myself, so either £45 for a polished 4m length or £15 for 1.2m which is all i need for the feet.

 

Thinking now if i will need the extra from a 4m ready polished bar. I am sure it will be used somewhere.

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That screen that I am ignoring - I think you'll find it easier to mock something up in cardboard. I think it should have more rake to it, and you will end up with screens that are not square, maybe not parallelograms either

 

The rail is perfect!

 

Richard

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When I get home I'll post a pic of ours to give you some inspiration for the screens. As Richard says they are not square at all. My chippy mate replaced some rotten bits and had a bit of a mare with it :(

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That screen that I am ignoring - I think you'll find it easier to mock something up in cardboard. I think it should have more rake to it, and you will end up with screens that are not square, maybe not parallelograms either

 

The rail is perfect!

 

Richard

 

 

just in the process of the screen adjustment, that the one aswell ` parallelograms ` and smaller just to big all together.

 

 

I am tempted to make a SS screen, slim and fitting in well, only wood then will be the strakes though.

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