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Thanks Martin, i hope you mean the frame and not the stream lined disaster of a canopy.

I think the screen goes with the boat, tried to keep the angles to look well.

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Thanks Martin, i hope you mean the frame and not the stream lined disaster of a canopy.

I think the screen goes with the boat, tried to keep the angles to look well.

I think you suceeded!

 

Richard

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What a bloody pain that has been, either foam playing up, weather being its usual self and me being to heavy handed again breaking the foam i used with the MDF for the new mould. Its dont though now, and not bad, still needs a few ribs on the underside of the canopy top to reduce more flex.

 

I used 9mm MDF and timber along with foam to shape it easier. The front here was filled with expanding foam, reason is a put a curve in the top and this was an easy way to fill it then cut/sand to shape

 

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Then sanded the edge for a good radius, and the rear edge i added some foam which i carved to shape, tapered down so the canvas can clip under it.

 

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Once all done i gave it a coat of resin and then 3 coats od PVA Blue, infact i did this days ago but with the weather messing up the job i had to cover it up and wait for this weekend in hope it kept dry.

 

 

 

 

So todays task was to laminate it, i risked it as there was the odd shower going over early on, thank god it stayed fry later on.

 

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Left it for a few hours then trimmed back to where i wanted it to be and sand back a bit be fore i smooth over.

It is not that heavy at around 10kg, i have decided for now to keep it fixed and not folding, it has air draft of 7 foot so will be ok on most canals, will just have to check before we launch.

 

 

 

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  • Greenie 1
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I am once again confident that it will be ready for launch mid summer next year, we have all the expensive parts bought ready to go in like the heater, cooker etc etc just need water heater but not to expensive.

 

I have just got back in after doing this so i can finish it this week, This will give a good flange to bolt to the front frame

 

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It will be bolted dwon well, not bothered if it goes in the water, more when i am towing it lol.

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Left it for a few hours then trimmed back to where i wanted it to be and sand back a bit be fore i smooth over.

It is not that heavy at around 10kg, i have decided for now to keep it fixed and not folding, it has air draft of 7 foot so will be ok on most canals, will just have to check before we launch.

 

 

 

How have you measured that?

 

You don't know how it will sit in the water yet so you can't measure the air draft!

 

One thing is for sure with all of the extra weight you are adding it will sit lower then it did before blink.pngwacko.pngblink.png

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NC, don't get too hung up on it, my mate went out with 7 adults on his the other week, all biggish buggers too smile.png

We know through experience how little weight it takes to adjust the trim of a small, light boat.

 

It takes some thinking about to locate things to achieve the best result without having to resort to adding yet more weight as ballast. Plonking lots of things in it willy, nilly isn't the answer.

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We know through experience how little weight it takes to adjust the trim of a small, light boat.

 

It takes some thinking about to locate things to achieve the best result without having to resort to adding yet more weight as ballast. Plonking lots of things in it willy, nilly isn't the answer.

Me too, try a 16' Mayland, fuel, beer, clothes, a rottie and Imelda Marcos's shoe collection for a 10 day holiday....

 

I'm not sure if my mate best positioned his passengers :)

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How have you measured that?

 

You don't know how it will sit in the water yet so you can't measure the air draft!

 

One thing is for sure with all of the extra weight you are adding it will sit lower then it did before blink.pngwacko.pngblink.png

he knows it close enough for the purpose of having clearance to bridges and tunnels.

 

the trim will change if one person moves from the cabin to the transom, but we don't need to split hairs. Or do we? frusty.gifwacko.png

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he knows it close enough for the purpose of having clearance to bridges and tunnels.

 

the trim will change if one person moves from the cabin to the transom, but we don't need to split hairs. Or do we? frusty.gifwacko.png

I don't think he does. Bit of a bummer if you launch it then find you can't get where you want too!

 

The boat will of course move as people move around but you should aim to have the boat something approaching level when it is sat on a mooring or at anchor, especially if he uses it on estuaries and coastal waters as initially intended.

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Hi Rach and guys, to answer Rach`s question as to how i know the air draft, i should of said at a maximium of foot, reason is that i measured the air draft to be from the original water line, so as we know this boat will be carrying a little more weight it will be lower in the water so even lesser a draft.

 

I decided to keep it as a fixed canopy for now as i looked at canal spec etc to see there are few canals with bridges lower than 7 foot clearance, i am sure it will be ok on lakes and coastal areas. Mite be a push getting under the Menai Bridge though, easy do the Britannia though, i will load the bilge with a few cans of cideeer for that weekend though :)

 

I am not worried about this, as said earlier, this screen and canopy can be made to fold down if i need to in the future, not going to do so now as the places i plan to go will be chosen before the launch is done, any low bridges etc we can avoid. no big deal, more places to cruise than i can ask for, .

 

 

these little things are not a worry ;)

  • Greenie 1
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NavBridges2013.pdf

 

The middle levels have a few tight ones, I chicken out on Well Creek (bridges 35 & 36) and have the screens down. The MLC don't list the low one in Nordelph or near Salters Lode just to keep you on yer toes ;)

 

Elsewhere in Fenland 2.1 is normally fine bar for when we are on strong streams.

 

I imagine you have more than a few miles of rivers and canals to tackle up your way before you do battle with middle earth :)

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I don't think he does. Bit of a bummer if you launch it then find you can't get where you want too!

 

The boat will of course move as people move around but you should aim to have the boat something approaching level when it is sat on a mooring or at anchor, especially if he uses it on estuaries and coastal waters as initially intended.

 

Hey you gota have faith Rach :) I now a bit about what i am doing.....noooo woorrrries :)

 

 

attachicon.gifNavBridges2013.pdf

 

The middle levels have a few tight ones, I chicken out on Well Creek (bridges 35 & 36) and have the screens down. The MLC don't list the low one in Nordelph or near Salters Lode just to keep you on yer toes wink.png

 

Elsewhere in Fenland 2.1 is normally fine bar for when we are on strong streams.

 

I imagine you have more than a few miles of rivers and canals to tackle up your way before you do battle with middle earth smile.png

 

 

After being around Yorshire a lot over the last year or so and seeing all the river i am going to start to look into what is navigable, cold be some good adventures ahead. :)

  • Greenie 1
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Can you sedn a little over here then pleas Rach ;)

 

 

Now this weekends job, i need to remove the canopy and take indoors to finish off, the easy bit, now for the bit i am not looking forward to, and yes i should of not used it but it has been good in the bast unless i got a sheet from a bad batch, but this deck was made from the best WBP Ply from Wicks, i have used it a lot in the past, in all way indoor and mainly out, built kennels, bird box`s etc

 

This is after a few months and with being treated with 3 coats of poly resin and two metallic primer, so should of been fine even on the cut edge.

 

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It as been fixed in well so this is going to take some getting out, screwed, sealed and laminated down. I better stock up on the Bow for this job.

 

The plan is to redo but in GRP, as it should of been in the first place. It will have ribs beneath to strengthen and reduce flex, and thanks to Gazza for the help in materials ;) Much appreciated kida :)

 

So it loos like it can be painted soon if weather is good, i am looking at going white top and blue bottom now :)

  • Greenie 1
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No problem mate, white on blue is a classic look, we are other way round, go for a nice white stripe between hull colour and Antifouling, 25-32mm wide looks good on 20' boats. You will have to give her a dunk first to get the waterline.

 

Flag AF is buy far and away the one I have had most success with.

 

Although my mate who runs a quick 30' fishing boat mixes up the leftovers the yachties leave laying round the yard, never the same colour and never the same brands but it works well enough and costs £0 :)

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Now the water line stripe, i was thinking Red and Blue stripe. Just seen them on a few boats on google images and look good. Bit OTT maybe lol.

 

We have a Sailing club down the road on a reservoir that i can dunk it in quick, Thats is the pain on finishing the painting, i cant find the actual water line until it is fitted and ready to go.

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