varnish over exterior boat paint.

[cazberry]

Just been chatting to a fellow boater moored up near to me. I was admiring their paint job and learnt a few handy tips.

One thing he did say which surprised me was that he was going to put varnish over the paintwork in order to get that 'shiny' boat look.

Has anyone here ever done this and is this 'normal' practise?

Must admit, I've never heard of this before and to be honest it seems a bit extreme just to get a shiny boat!

[Ex- Member]

Just been chatting to a fellow boater moored up near to me. I was admiring their paint job and learnt a few handy tips.

One thing he did say which surprised me was that he was going to put varnish over the paintwork in order to get that 'shiny' boat look.

Has anyone here ever done this and is this 'normal' practise?

Must admit, I've never heard of this before and to be honest it seems a bit extreme just to get a shiny boat!

 

Well lacquer would the most appropriate I would have thought, which is basically a varnish. Lacquer is generally applied to metallic paints to achieve a good shine.

 

If you apply varnish externally to a boat you would need to do it quite quickly after the top coat, ie within a re-coating time period, and then using a varnish with a similar qualities ie oil based, acrylic etc any more than a day then some light abrasion would be required to ensure good adherence for a varnish.

 

 

 

[David Mack]

Its usually done to protect signwriting, roses and castles or scumbling from general wear and tear.

 

David

[cazberry]

interesting...just a thought though...by using lacquer or varnish does it make it hard to repaint in later years?

I mean, would it be hard to rub down etc?

[Ex- Member]

interesting...just a thought though...by using lacquer or varnish does it make it hard to repaint in later years?

I mean, would it be hard to rub down etc?

 

It's no harder than paint really and usually applied thinner, it has to be correctly applied or it will almost certainly flake, but can be rubbed down and repainted preferably using wet and dry 3 to 400 grit.

 

 

 

[Ark Right]

interesting...just a thought though...by using lacquer or varnish does it make it hard to repaint in later years?

I mean, would it be hard to rub down etc?

 

The boats I have seen that have been varnished/ lacquered have all started to peel/shed the coating in time. Probably due to the some of the factors in posts above. I have heard of it being done on new "professional" paint jobs when the weather has stopped the paint from achieving a gloss. Generally I believe it not to be a good practice. As to your repainting question, it would make no difference at all, as a minimum the old paintwork would have to be flatted back to original paint coats.

Cheers

A

 

It's no harder than paint really and usually applied thinner, it has to be correctly applied or it will almost certainly flake, but can be rubbed down and repainted preferably using wet and dry 3 to 400 grit.

 

 

 

 

Wet and Dry, do you mean like using it wet? By hand?

[Ex- Member]

The boats I have seen that have been varnished/ lacquered have all started to peel/shed the coating in time. Probably due to the some of the factors in posts above. I have heard of it being done on new "professional" paint jobs when the weather has stopped the paint from achieving a gloss. Generally I believe it not to be a good practice. As to your repainting question, it would make no difference at all, as a minimum the old paintwork would have to be flatted back to original paint coats.

Cheers

A

 

 

 

Wet and Dry, do you mean like using it wet? By hand?

 

 

Wat & dry is an abrasive rubbing down paper that can be used wet or dry, it's best to rub down varnish using water and the abrasive paper sometimes called Emery Paper, this is usually done by hand using a rubbing block, a flat block of rubber that ensures you don't get finger marks when you rub down. You simply rub the surface until the paint or varnish shine disappears, the surface is then ready to repaint.Pro's use the edge of the rubbing block to wipe the dirty water away leaving a dry area you can inspect to see if all the shine is removed. Skilled preppers can rub down without a rubbing block as they learn to use the side or flat of their hand.

 

 

[cazberry]

Thanks for the feedback.. this is really informative...

would love to see a boat with this done, just to see how it looks. If it looks the part I may just give it a go myself!

[David Schweizer]

The boats I have seen that have been varnished/ lacquered have all started to peel/shed the coating in time. Probably due to the some of the factors in posts above. I have heard of it being done on new "professional" paint jobs when the weather has stopped the paint from achieving a gloss. Generally I believe it not to be a good practice. As to your repainting question, it would make no difference at all, as a minimum the old paintwork would have to be flatted back to original paint coats.

Cheers

A

 

 

 

Wet and Dry, do you mean like using it wet? By hand?

Varnishing works, but do not use any product with Polyeurethane in it or anything designed to go on wood. What you should use is Craftmaster Transparent Varnish, which is actually more like a clear Paint than varnish. Tech spec here:- http://www.craftmasterpaints.co.uk/technical-data-sheets/TDS10.1.pdf

 

Matt the existing surface using an extrafine grade Scotch pad, then apply two coats in the same way as you would apply paint, matting between coats. you will be amazed at the results. I used it to revitalise the back panels on our boat and all the colour has been restored along with a high gloss finish.

[Ex- Member]

Thanks for the feedback.. this is really informative...

would love to see a boat with this done, just to see how it looks. If it looks the part I may just give it a go myself!

 

You can get as good a finish with top coat paint, remember varnish/lacquer is only as good as it's preparation and application, if badly applied then you'll gain no additional shine, in fact it could even reduce your existing shine if poorly applied, spray finish is usually best as it applies lacquer / varnish flat and even however you can get really good results with quality brushes and know how.

 

To be honest to get the best out of them they need to be applied in proper spray boothes or undercover, for a boat you're much better in concentrating on a good finish to the top coat, if you get it wrong you can at least rub down the bad bits and try again, lacquers and varnishes won't be so forgiving.

[Dorlan]

Phil Speight's 2006 guide to painting a boat, including varnishing! Edited August 9, 2011 by Dorlan

[WotEver]

Phil Speight's 2006 guide to painting a boat, including varnishing!

Well done that man. I was going to go looking for that link myself.

 

So to all the folk above who've said it's wrong or unneccessary or pointless, you're wrong. Here's a quote from the linked post:

The thing is varnish is GOOD . Well good varnish is good . Historic wagons and the like get varnished , fairground rides , showman`s engines and living vans get varnished - why not boats?

 

Tony

[David Schweizer]

Phil Speight's 2006 guide to painting a boat, including varnishing!

When i wanted to revitalise the back panels on our boat, I spoke to Phil Speight who gave me the advice on how to do it. It is well into it's second year now and is showing no signs of deterioration yet.

[bizzard]

You can get as good a finish with top coat paint, remember varnish/lacquer is only as good as it's preparation and application, if badly applied then you'll gain no additional shine, in fact it could even reduce your existing shine if poorly applied, spray finish is usually best as it applies lacquer / varnish flat and even however you can get really good results with quality brushes and know how.

 

To be honest to get the best out of them they need to be applied in proper spray boothes or undercover, for a boat you're much better in concentrating on a good finish to the top coat, if you get it wrong you can at least rub down the bad bits and try again, lacquers and varnishes won't be so forgiving.

I agree with Julynian,Much safer to do a coach finish with a brush,i use synthetic brushes these days,i find them softer.If you lay off downwards on vertical surfaces by half a brush width you will achieve a glass like finish,done properly ,better than spray or roller.Hose down around the boat first to keep the dust down.

If you do want to varnish or laquer over,use clear.Do not try any synthetic lacquer or varnish ie cellulose based as these will react immediately on oil based paint,pickle up like paint stripper. What ever you use do a small test bit first to make sure its compatible. bizzard

[LEO]

Just been chatting to a fellow boater moored up near to me. I was admiring their paint job and learnt a few handy tips.

One thing he did say which surprised me was that he was going to put varnish over the paintwork in order to get that 'shiny' boat look.

Has anyone here ever done this and is this 'normal' practise?

Must admit, I've never heard of this before and to be honest it seems a bit extreme just to get a shiny boat!

 

Hi,

 

My boat suffered with 'chalking' despite regular polishing.

 

It's in for a bare metal repaint (Oxon Boat Painters) and the last of 3 top coats have just been applied, results are stunning.

 

Craftmaster paint was used and I think you will get good results with these paints - varnish may not be needed - if you open a used tin there is no thick skin to be removed, just an oil like substance to be stirred in.

 

When I use to run cars with cellulose paint finishes I used to wet and dry and apply numerous coats and finish with a good T cut and polish and the results were excellent, but that was spray painting.

 

Thoughts on another paint brand have been expressed in an earlier post.

 

Leo.

 

No connections with Craftmaster of OBP just a satisfied customer of both.

Edited August 10, 2011 by LEO

[Guest]

Varnishing works, but do not use any product with Polyeurethane in it or anything designed to go on wood. What you should use is Craftmaster Transparent Varnish, which is actually more like a clear Paint than varnish. Tech spec here:- http://www.craftmasterpaints.co.uk/technical-data-sheets/TDS10.1.pdf

 

Matt the existing surface using an extrafine grade Scotch pad, then apply two coats in the same way as you would apply paint, matting between coats. you will be amazed at the results. I used it to revitalise the back panels on our boat and all the colour has been restored along with a high gloss finish.

That is exactly what I intend to do on our back panels. Mine are vinyl letters (sorry purists ) I think it is OK to apply Craftmaster clear over vinyl lettering?

 

Phil Speight's 2006 guide to painting a boat, including varnishing!

That is interesting. Basically varnish it,redo every two or three years and the paint will last a lot longer.

[Ex- Member]

Well done that man. I was going to go looking for that link myself.

 

So to all the folk above who've said it's wrong or unneccessary or pointless, you're wrong. Here's a quote from the linked post:

 

Tony

 

 

 

Yes that's if you're willing to recoat every 2 years and have the skill to apply it in the first place.

[bizzard]

Yes that's if you're willing to recoat every 2 years and have the skill to apply it in the first place.

Yes indeed,also you'll find that the sun will make it go sort of yellowy too after a while,unless a very high quality pure clear Japanese or Japlac lacquer or similar is used.But whatever used test for compatibility first.

[dave moore]

Hi all

Working as a signwriter/boat decorator, I'm often asked this question. My response is

"It's like marriage, not to be done wantonly or recklessly, if you do it you inherit a committment to maintain it and a coat every year or so in needed to keep it in top order,regardless of whether it loks as if it's needed"

 

Varnish will certainly prolong paint life and can work wonders with tired paint, but it mustn't be allowed to craze and every scratch touched in...getting water behind it is a common cause of failure. Polyeurathane varnishes are too hard and unsuited to the environment. My recommendation is Craftmaster Clear, expensive but wonderful stuff.

 

The acid test....my own boat...no, I prefer polish ( Craftmaster again ). I suppose I can't be bothered to maintain varnish, and I try and pop into the paint dock most years to touch things up.

Hope that this helps

Cheers

Dave

[Higgs]

The name panels on my boat were looking a bit scruffy and the portholes, in these panels, needed to be touch up around the rims. For a while I'd had a tin of Gloss Base, containing not pigment. It was oil-based and good quality. The name panels were in need of completely re-doing or reviving, I chose the latter, as an experiment. Touched in all of the blemishes with my Aircraft Blue Mason's. After the paint had a couple of days, keyed it up with Scotch pad.

 

Coated four, sign-written panels, with the Gloss Base and it brought the life back to the paintwork and has lasted four years, so far. It's the kind of thing I would do if money and time isn't there to do a more thorough paint job.

 

You shouldn't need to consider varnishing, as a matter of course, to make your painting glossy. The paint, treated right, will gloss.

 

Never used wet and dry. Always had enough on my plate without having to wash down the sludge of wet and dry. Not saying it doesn't work but never suited me.

 

Painting is not a science. When a paint job goes right, you've succeeded in beating the odds of sods law and adversity. The more you do, the better the odds. I'm sure all painters have had a, " can't understand what went wrong " ???, moment. Gremlins, I think.

Edited August 24, 2011 by Higgs