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Single handing for beginners


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Alternative: the boat drives itself out of the lock because you've left it in forward gear while the lock was filling, then as the stern passes the top gate you engage reverse gear (if you had to step on board to do this, you immediately step off again - either way you don't take a rope). The boat continues for a length a two, then stops and comes back to you. While it is doing so, you shut the gate then step back on to the boat and engage forward gear to proceed.

 

I can see that work in some locks, but not in others. Many of the wide locks on the K&A have very short, and wide, lock mouths, and there is a chance of the stern drifting across. But on the T&M, and certainly most of the Oxford locks, your technique certainly works, because of the long, and narrow lock mouths. On the Oxford I rarely used the line. On the K&A, the line is virtually attached to me...

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Alternative: the boat drives itself out of the lock because you've left it in forward gear while the lock was filling, then as the stern passes the top gate you engage reverse gear (if you had to step on board to do this, you immediately step off again - either way you don't take a rope). The boat continues for a length a two, then stops and comes back to you. While it is doing so, you shut the gate then step back on to the boat and engage forward gear to proceed.

Fine if you have the kind of boat that actually heads forward if nobody is holding the tiller, (or if you have tiller strings).

 

A recipe for disaster if you have the kind of boat where if left in either forward or reverse gear the rudder rapidly swings to maximum deflection one way or the other.

 

Guess which we have! (And tiller strings wouldn't really be that practical frankly...).

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Fine if you have the kind of boat that actually heads forward if nobody is holding the tiller, (or if you have tiller strings).

 

A recipe for disaster if you have the kind of boat where if left in either forward or reverse gear the rudder rapidly swings to maximum deflection one way or the other.

 

Guess which we have! (And tiller strings wouldn't really be that practical frankly...).

 

This reminded of a boat we saw on the T&M a few weekends ago -

 

It actually was worked by radio/remote control, the throttle and gear was certainly - I wasn't sure if the tiller was too though.

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I can see that work in some locks, but not in others. Many of the wide locks on the K&A have very short, and wide, lock mouths, and there is a chance of the stern drifting across. But on the T&M, and certainly most of the Oxford locks, your technique certainly works, because of the long, and narrow lock mouths. On the Oxford I rarely used the line. On the K&A, the line is virtually attached to me...

 

It will work on the wide locks if it is not too windy - I was doing this on the GU and the K&A earlier this year, except of course for those locks that need you to empty them after use.

 

I should have added that leaving the boat in forward gear while a wide lock is filling, assumed that you used a centre-line as you described - otherwise the bow will have drifted out to the centre of the V of the top gates, which is no use at all. Actually on a wide lock I wait until the lock is nearly full before engaging forward gear, with the centre line still attached, unlike a narrow lock where I normally leave it in gear the whole time.

 

Fine if you have the kind of boat that actually heads forward if nobody is holding the tiller, (or if you have tiller strings).

 

A recipe for disaster if you have the kind of boat where if left in either forward or reverse gear the rudder rapidly swings to maximum deflection one way or the other.

 

Guess which we have! (And tiller strings wouldn't really be that practical frankly...).

 

Does yours really swing right across when you're in forward gear? I've not met one that did that before!

 

In reverse ours swings across, but of course that doesn't make much difference to where the boat goes.

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Does yours really swing right across when you're in forward gear? I've not met one that did that before!

 

In reverse ours swings across, but of course that doesn't make much difference to where the boat goes.

 

Mine certainly does too. I dont feel comfortable with a boat in gear with me not on it and certainly not without a line. Ive not found the need to do this as speed is not the main objective yet I still think I can be efficient.

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Its past 12 so it certainly isnt too early for a drink :cheers:

Encouraging words Rachael/ Phylis, but I was good, resisted the temptation and went and painted some more Springer instead! That and some gardening will work up a thirst for the four bottles of Black Sheep Ale which I have just put in the fridge.

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Does yours really swing right across when you're in forward gear? I've not met one that did that before!

Invariably, and fairly quickly after you stop holding the tiller.

 

It will even do this in narrow locks, one of the reasons that we have long since ceased the attempts at leaving it in gear, with it's nose on the gate.

 

More effort ends up being spent trying to drive the rear end side into the lock wall, than is actally produced in forward "oomph" to hold it against the gate.

 

One learns to live with it, but the boat proceeding under it's own steam, forwards, in a straight line is definitely not an option.

 

Mine certainly does too. I dont feel comfortable with a boat in gear with me not on it and certainly not without a line.

Another Evans & Son boat ?

 

Perhaps there is something in the way Mike Heywood designs his rudders, (amount of balance, separation from prop, andle of shaft, etc), that gives them this unfortunate behaviour.

 

I've just posted this picture elsewhere, but wonder if the amount of leading edge is assisting it getting pushed round. Maybe it needs less, (and a bit heavier steering ?)

 

Chalice_Prop.jpg

 

Anyone have a view ?

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Another Evans & Son boat ?

 

 

Kismet's tiller also swung to about 45 degrees either way (felt like you were steering on a knife edge), but increasing the length of the rudder helped reduce it, and for some reason putting another prop on helped as well. Wasn't a problem at canal speed, but gunning it on the Humber got tiring.

 

A slight pull one way is handy though (as with Victoria) in the locks, as it's something you can rely on - it will always end up at one side of the lock.

 

Mike

Edited by mykaskin
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I would really, really like to do some solo boating, but my biggest concern is nothing to do with locks; it's what will happen when (not if) I get stuck on the bottom. Having a second person, particularly a big strong one, really seems to be vital in that situation. Would I just have to depend on the kindness of strangers?

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I would really, really like to do some solo boating, but my biggest concern is nothing to do with locks; it's what will happen when (not if) I get stuck on the bottom. Having a second person, particularly a big strong one, really seems to be vital in that situation. Would I just have to depend on the kindness of strangers?

 

Hi Sarah,

Don't be worried! There's not that many times when a bit of ingenuity can't be more help than having a bloke around when getting stuck!

It's really useful to have some movable ballast - coal bags etc. to shift to get the stuck bit of the boat afloat, then re-trim when you're free.

It's wind (of the weather not baked beans kind!) that scares me the most & I have been in a situation stuck on the offside bank in a high wind after the engine cut out when only the kindness of strangers could help me. In this case it's useful to have a couple of cans of beer in the cupboard with which to say thankyou!

Mind you, going single handed & loaded is a different matter...

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On the other hand, if there are people around they are often more than willing to help - it can make life a lot easier . . .

 

 

 

I've just got back to Sowerby Bridge after single-handing to Sharpness and back - 650 miles and about 400-odd locks with all the diversions, and one of the most difficult things was when people were 'more than willing to help'. It does NOT, repeat NOT make life easier. It just means that I have a whole lot of extra things to consider, mostly to do with trying to second guess what they are going to do, especially when they think they know what they are doing.

 

It is very difficult to refuse help without being thought rude or awkward, but I've been as polite and jokey about it as possible, so if anyone has been offended by the miserable old git who just wants to be left alone to get on with it himself, I apologise.

 

:)

 

Mac

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I've just got back to Sowerby Bridge after single-handing to Sharpness and back - 650 miles and about 400-odd locks with all the diversions, and one of the most difficult things was when people were 'more than willing to help'. It does NOT, repeat NOT make life easier. It just means that I have a whole lot of extra things to consider, mostly to do with trying to second guess what they are going to do, especially when they think they know what they are doing.

 

It is very difficult to refuse help without being thought rude or awkward, but I've been as polite and jokey about it as possible, so if anyone has been offended by the miserable old git who just wants to be left alone to get on with it himself, I apologise.

 

To prompt some more thought and for winter reading to prepare for next year, two books are useful:

 

Towpath Tips by Dusty Miller and A Boaters Guide to Boating by Chris Deuchar

 

http://www.canalshop.co.uk/acatalog/skills.html

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We've moved our boat onto the Ripon Canal which now involves 2+ wide river locks to get anywhere interesting. As I go out a lot on my own I was a bit apprehensive but have just been out for 2 days singlehanded and had no problems. Took it slow, planned ahead, had bow and stern ropes neatly coiled accessible from cockpit (both sides). I reckon I looked a sight shinning up and down slimy ladders (wearing non slip gloves) with a windlass tucked in my belt like a Colt 45.

Although the boat is only 22' long I'm thinking of attaching another mooring rope (centreline) to each grab rail then I would have only have to worry about taking one rope up and down - views?

 

Jez

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Single handed, you should only use centrelines!

 

Owners of small cruisers rarely, if ever, use centreropes, the boats are small enough not to need one. After all the bow rope is only attached maybe 15 feet away from the driving position and the stern rope 10 feet away. Both can be brought into the cockpit ready for use and be to hand easily.

 

On my few single handing trips (none of which involved a lock, one of the benefits of mooring on a lightly locked navigation) I tied the bow rope to the rails close to the rear of the boat and had the stern rope ready for use beside me so that i could walk off the boat with both ropes to hand.

 

It is a different concept on cruisers than to narrowboats. Centrelines are not needed.

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Are these planned ones, or the impromptu ones that occur when himself jumps ship, and swims to the "shore" ?

 

There have been a couple of planned ones which have proven easier than the occasion where I was left single handed :rolleyes:

 

ETA: I have done more single handing than i first thought. I have not counted the times i have had to go and rescue the OH from the water whilst retrieving the dinghy, twice, :D

Edited by Phylis
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Centrelines on cruisers - point taken.

 

On a narrowboat, you can quickly control both ends of the boat with a centreline. Using bow and stern lines require you to run up and down like a madman! While you are tying one end the other can drift out. And if an end does drift out, the remaining secured line is no use for pulling the boat back in, the centreline however will always bring both ends back in. A centreline halves your rope workload. And climbing up a lock ladder can only be done with a centreline.

 

Another useful tip for single-handers, get one of those leather windlass belt loops they sell at boating events (IWA sell them too I think). Climbing up lock ladders is made much easier having the windlass securely stowed, you then only have the centreline to hold.

 

Also, if your boat is the same width as the lock then you do not need any ropes, it cant go anywhere! If the lock fills violently then leave it in gear pressed against the gate.

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Centrelines on cruisers - point taken.

 

snip And climbing up a lock ladder can only be done with a centreline. snip

 

As I said - I find that climbing the lock ladder with both bow and stern ropes in one hand is not difficult and can be done. I did state in my original post that my boat is only 22' long.

 

Jez

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I often find that it helps if the boat is travelling very slowly. I always approach moorings and lock landings much slower than is usual when I am single handed. I also tie the boat up more carefully

Yes, I agree. It's better to come in slowly, step off with the centre line and use that to bring the boat to a halt, rather than using reverse.

 

I've never been single manning and seen my boat float away, but the risk is in the back of my mind all the time. I have seen our boat mid-channel heading towards the top of Hatton before, but that was with a crew of three (and, after some frantic arm waving, a very helpful canoeist).

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