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Where to find SAE 20/20w oil


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The handbook for the Lister HA2 suggests using 20/20w oil, does anyone know if it is still available, and if so where?

 

Many thanks!

 

Come on then, is a 20/20W the same as saying a 20 weight oil?

 

Multigrade of the same grades?

 

PC

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Come on then, is a 20/20W the same as saying a 20 weight oil?

 

Multigrade of the same grades?

 

PC

 

Can't see it being anything other than a monograde, Morris lubricants do one, Ring Free XHD 20W Monograde 25 litre drum for about 65 quid plus vat, no idea who might stock it, but can be bought off their web site

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Come on then, is a 20/20W the same as saying a 20 weight oil?

 

Multigrade of the same grades?

 

PC

spot one it doesn't make any sense. I suspect he either does mean a mono grade of SAE 20 or the value after 20W incorrect which would have to be higher than the 20W value.

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The handbook for the Lister HA2 suggests using 20/20w oil, does anyone know if it is still available, and if so where?

 

Many thanks!

 

What your HA2 needs is Lister Petter 10/40 API CC. I suspect it is manufactured for Lister Petter by a medium sized company like Morris.

 

I buy it for my SR2 from Seddons Plant Hire. I visited Stone Boat Building on Monday and noticed that they had it for sale too, together with a few other brands of 20/20 and 30/30 which would do the job. But the Lister Petter oil will suit your engine in all temperatures and the API CC spec means it will be a good quality base oil with the correct detergency, but without all the modern additive packs which might cause bore glazing in an older under-stressed engine like the Listers.

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Can't see it being anything other than a monograde, Morris lubricants do one, Ring Free XHD 20W Monograde 25 litre drum for about 65 quid plus vat, no idea who might stock it, but can be bought off their web site

At risk of restarting old debates, I don't think the Ring Free XHD grades would be recommended for an oldish Lister, as they will be something like an API-CF spec.

 

The usual recommendation is to not go beyond an API-CC spec, and for these you are better off looking at the Morris "Golden Film" range, blended with older engines in mind, (both monogrades and multigrades are made).

 

This is also a good replacement, (in the right grade) for the Magnol, that someone else mentioned, and the "Golden Film" name seems now to have replaced the "Supreme" name Morris used for a while.

 

All that said, I don't think a 20 monograde oil sounds right for this engine. I'd probaly be using the Lister Petter specific oil already mentioned, (whic, as has been implied, is a badged product actually produced by Morris). You'll surely not go wrong with that in an HA - PM "Baldock" to confirm, possibly ?

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At risk of restarting old debates, I don't think the Ring Free XHD grades would be recommended for an oldish Lister, as they will be something like an API-CF spec.

 

The usual recommendation is to not go beyond an API-CC spec, and for these you are better off looking at the Morris "Golden Film" range, blended with older engines in mind, (both monogrades and multigrades are made).

 

This is also a good replacement, (in the right grade) for the Magnol, that someone else mentioned, and the "Golden Film" name seems now to have replaced the "Supreme" name Morris used for a while.

 

All that said, I don't think a 20 monograde oil sounds right for this engine. I'd probaly be using the Lister Petter specific oil already mentioned, (whic, as has been implied, is a badged product actually produced by Morris). You'll surely not go wrong with that in an HA - PM "Baldock" to confirm, possibly ?

 

Agreed, I'm not sure of the spec but probably CF, I wouldn't recomend it, I was just pointing out somebody who made what was asked for. but maybe there was a mistake in the original post

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Come on then, is a 20/20W the same as saying a 20 weight oil?

 

Multigrade of the same grades?

 

PC

 

 

spot one it doesn't make any sense. I suspect he either does mean a mono grade of SAE 20 or the value after 20W incorrect which would have to be higher than the 20W value.

 

I'm sure that many of you already know this, but for those who don't, 20 and 20w are different grades. 20w (a winter grade) is determined by a different test than 20 (a non winter grade) so 20w/20 does make sense and is a multigrade, but one with not a very wide temperature or viscosity range.

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Without going over too much old ground, elderly, non full flow oil filtered Listers only need a cc or cd oil. Morris's oils are fine. 10w for cold weather areas, hard winters and Scandinavia etc, 20w for temperate climates like the UK and 30w for the tropics. XHD and XFE oils are way too detergent for old engines.

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I'm sure that many of you already know this, but for those who don't, 20 and 20w are different grades. 20w (a winter grade) is determined by a different test than 20 (a non winter grade) so 20w/20 does make sense and is a multigrade, but one with not a very wide temperature or viscosity range.

And you'll have to look very hard, if you want to find any (unless you have excellent eyesight, of course).

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I'm sure that many of you already know this, but for those who don't, 20 and 20w are different grades. 20w (a winter grade) is determined by a different test than 20 (a non winter grade) so 20w/20 does make sense and is a multigrade, but one with not a very wide temperature or viscosity range.

 

I tend to think not many would know that, beause I don't think it's correct. A multigrade oil is one that has viscous properties of more than one grade of oil. A 20w/20 oil has only one grade and can only be a monograde. the W does indicate its use at low temperature (winter) but for a different reason, its wax point or pour point, in other words at the temperature where an sae 20 oil would be set due to waxing, an sae 20w oil would still be fluid.

But stand to be corrected.

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I tend to think not many would know that, beause I don't think it's correct. A multigrade oil is one that has viscous properties of more than one grade of oil. A 20w/20 oil has only one grade and can only be a monograde. the W does indicate its use at low temperature (winter) but for a different reason, its wax point or pour point, in other words at the temperature where an sae 20 oil would be set due to waxing, an sae 20w oil would still be fluid.

But stand to be corrected.

 

That explanation sounds convincing enough to me, and to reiterate my original reply to the OP, Lister Petter 10/40 API CC is probably the best oil for all season use in an H series Lister.

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And you'll have to look very hard, if you want to find any (unless you have excellent eyesight, of course).

 

I'm not sure why you're quoting me here. I was not attempting to make any point about it's availability.

 

I tend to think not many would know that, beause I don't think it's correct. A multigrade oil is one that has viscous properties of more than one grade of oil. A 20w/20 oil has only one grade and can only be a monograde. the W does indicate its use at low temperature (winter) but for a different reason, its wax point or pour point, in other words at the temperature where an sae 20 oil would be set due to waxing, an sae 20w oil would still be fluid.

But stand to be corrected.

 

I think you will find that is not correct, but I'm not sure. Considering the first passage that I have highlighted above, multigrade oil does indeed have the viscous properites of more than one grade of oil. 20w and 20 are different grades(therefore canot be a monograde) and have different properties as you have pointed out in the second highlighted passage. So 20w/20 is not one grade but covers a range of at least 2(multiple) grades and is therefore by definition a multigrade. But I'm sure there will always be a difference of opinion and the rightness or wrongness of the issue is of little consequence, just a bit of interest to discuss.

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So, possible stupid question alert....

 

If the manual indicates a certain oil, say 20/20w, is it ok to use a multi that covers that , say a 10/40 or a 15/30? And if it is, why would you want to find an obscure oil of 20/20w visc.?

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I'm not sure why you're quoting me here. I was not attempting to make any point about it's availability.

 

But I'm sure there will always be a difference of opinion and the rightness or wrongness of the issue is of little consequence, just a bit of interest to discuss.

 

It was an attempt at humour but may be too subtle for some to appreciate.

 

(20/20 vision required to find it?............Oh never mind :lol: )

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Oil technology has moved on from when these manuals were written

 

Most BUT not all applications would be ok BUT it's best to check with a specialist on the engine range in question before blindly hoping all will be ok

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Oil technology has moved on from when these manuals were written

 

Most BUT not all applications would be ok BUT it's best to check with a specialist on the engine range in question before blindly hoping all will be ok

 

 

Sorry uncle Baldock sir,

 

what oil can I use in my SR3?

 

 

Please.

 

:lol:

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Lister or any good Brand of API CC 10w 40 is fine mate

edited to add

Hypoid 80/90 in Gearbox and Reduction box ( LM100 or LH150)

 

 

Ta very much.

 

I have a Parsons gearbox, which the fitter said runs on the same oil as the engine :lol: . Mind you, it comes out at such a rate that I might as well buy a 45gallon drum and plumb it in... :lol:

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Ta very much.

 

I have a Parsons gearbox, which the fitter said runs on the same oil as the engine :lol: . Mind you, it comes out at such a rate that I might as well buy a 45gallon drum and plumb it in... :lol:

You could adapt the engine to run on used engine oil, connect the fuel tank up to the sump and then pump the leakage, from the bilges, to the injectors.

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You could adapt the engine to run on used engine oil, connect the fuel tank up to the sump and then pump the leakage, from the bilges, to the injectors.

 

 

:lol:

 

it's not leaking that bad... :lol:

 

Although the idea of using waste (cooking) oil is a thought. Not sure if the SR3 will like it though. Or Bio-diesel.

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