Red Oxide decks

[blackrose]

After getting rid of some rust and priming my stern deck with red oxide primer, I'm actually thinking that I like the colour and wouldn't mind that colour in a non-slip deck paint.

What's the best way of achieving this? I want the brown-red colour rather than red and I'd rather not mess around with sand if possible. I guess using a light coloured deck paint like Interdeck (containing aggregates) and then painting over with the red oxide primer isn't an option?

[Chris Pink]

After getting rid of some rust and priming my stern deck with red oxide primer, I'm actually thinking that I like the colour and wouldn't mind that colour in a non-slip deck paint.

What's the best way of achieving this? I want the brown-red colour rather than red and I'd rather not mess around with sand if possible. I guess using a light coloured deck paint like Interdeck (containing aggregates) and then painting over with the red oxide primer isn't an option?

 

Phil Speight will be along in a moment to say it's called raddle red, a non gloss red oxide top coat.

 

but I use ( i can't afford Phil) floor paint, works a treat.

[blackrose]

Phil Speight will be along in a moment to say it's called raddle red, a non gloss red oxide top coat.

 

but I use ( i can't afford Phil) floor paint, works a treat.

 

Thanks but the Raddle Red that I've seen looks too red to me. I want the earthy orangy-brown red oxide colour.

[NB Alnwick]

Thanks but the Raddle Red that I've seen looks too red to me. I want the earthy orangy-brown red oxide colour.

 

Phil will mix any colour you want - the quality of Raddle Red is pretty good we have had it on our roof for four years (three coats) and it has survived some pretty rough treatment whereas the contemporary Wickes floor paint on our front deck is pealing and spattered with rust spots - having said that, the wickes paint was half the price of craftmaster.

[alan_fincher]

Thanks but the Raddle Red that I've seen looks too red to me. I want the earthy orangy-brown red oxide colour.

I think that the "Narrowboatpaint" range will supply any colour in their range with the rubberised non-slip stuff in it.

 

I'm not sure what the situation now is at Uxbridge Boat Centre, as there seemed to be some kind of issue between them selling this brand and Phil Speight's stuff, but it might be worth ringing them to see if they can help, (via either NarrowboatPait or Craftmaster).

 

Certainly we had no trouble getting "Narrowboatpaint" from them non-slip in Brunswick green and a black, unlike International, which has only a very limited non-slip range.

 

My impression is that if you used International non-slip in one colour, but then over-painted in something else that nearly all the non-slip effect would be lost.

[blackrose]

I think that the "Narrowboatpaint" range will supply any colour in their range with the rubberised non-slip stuff in it.

 

I'm not sure what the situation now is at Uxbridge Boat Centre, as there seemed to be some kind of issue between them selling this brand and Phil Speight's stuff, but it might be worth ringing them to see if they can help, (via either NarrowboatPait or Craftmaster).

 

Certainly we had no trouble getting "Narrowboatpaint" from them non-slip in Brunswick green and a black, unlike International, which has only a very limited non-slip range.

 

My impression is that if you used International non-slip in one colour, but then over-painted in something else that nearly all the non-slip effect would be lost.

 

Thanks everyone, I just called Uxbridge and they say that Raddle is the colour I'm looking for so perhaps I was looking at something else before.

They suggested either Phil Speights deckpaint or painting over Interdeck with Raddle satin.

[David Schweizer]

I just use Hammerite red oxide, it is comparatively cheap, very easy to apply, and provides a good matt surface to stand on. What is more it is very forgiving about further coats being added when the surface gets a bit worn (as it will if you are standing on it all day).

[Guest]

I just use Hammerite red oxide, it is comparatively cheap, very easy to apply, and provides a good matt surface to stand on. What is more it is very forgiving about further coats being added when the surface gets a bit worn (as it will if you are standing on it all day).

 

This one?

 

http://www.icipaints.co.uk/products/info/h...xide_primer.jsp

 

Have you tried this on the roof David?

 

I just use Hammerite red oxide, it is comparatively cheap, very easy to apply, and provides a good matt surface to stand on. What is more it is very forgiving about further coats being added when the surface gets a bit worn (as it will if you are standing on it all day).

 

This one?

 

http://www.icipaints.co.uk/products/info/h...xide_primer.jsp

 

Have you tried this on the roof David?

[Phil Speight]

I think that the "Narrowboatpaint" range will supply any colour in their range with the rubberised non-slip stuff in it.

 

I'm not sure what the situation now is at Uxbridge Boat Centre, as there seemed to be some kind of issue between them selling this brand and Phil Speight's stuff, but it might be worth ringing them to see if they can help, (via either NarrowboatPait or Craftmaster).

 

Certainly we had no trouble getting "Narrowboatpaint" from them non-slip in Brunswick green and a black, unlike International, which has only a very limited non-slip range.

 

My impression is that if you used International non-slip in one colour, but then over-painted in something else that nearly all the non-slip effect would be lost.

 

There`s no issue as far as I`m concerned - they were lost to us , they came back - and very welcome too ! I have to say this - we have an anti-slip deck enamel of our own in any colour whatsoever.

 

I really feel I want to say this as well though I probably shouldn`t. We have anti-slip, and engine enamels and bilge paint etc etc - and we know how to use it all - because we are boaters and canal professionals before all else. It`s over 28 years since I last lived in a house ! We actually know first hand what is required in the world we have lived in for years.

By gum - I`ve wanted to point that out on here for such a long time !

Sorry if I`m out of order.

Cheers

Phil

 

Phil Speight will be along in a moment to say it's called raddle red, a non gloss red oxide top coat.

 

but I use ( i can't afford Phil) floor paint, works a treat.

it`s called raddle red,a non gloss red oxide top coat.

Phil

PS tight old bugger !

[RLWP]

There`s no issue as far as I`m concerned - they were lost to us , they came back - and very welcome too ! I have to say this - we have an anti-slip deck enamel of our own in any colour whatsoever.

 

I really feel I want to say this as well though I probably shouldn`t. We have anti-slip, and engine enamels and bilge paint etc etc - and we know how to use it all - because we are boaters and canal professionals before all else. It`s over 28 years since I last lived in a house ! We actually know first hand what is required in the world we have lived in for years.

By gum - I`ve wanted to point that out on here for such a long time !

Sorry if I`m out of order.

Cheers

Phil

 

 

it`s called raddle red,a non gloss red oxide top coat.

Phil

PS tight old bugger !

 

Hi Phil,

 

Do you feel better for that? We have all known for years. Your reputation precedes you by a mile.

 

Richard

 

This bloke Badoer then. Any good, is he?

[Phil Speight]

Hi Phil,

 

Do you feel better for that? We have all known for years. Your reputation precedes you by a mile.

 

Richard

 

This bloke Badoer then. Any good, is he?

Sorry - sometimes I find myself reading through paint related streams and wondering what`s so mysterious about the subject ! I think I`m gradually loosing my wits at the moment - added to which it`s difficult to seperate my self from my paint company because I genuinley believe in what we`re doing here - and on top of that I keep on allowing myself to say , and write , things I normally wouldn`t ! It must be the world`s most protracted mid-life crisis ! For god`ssake it`s lasted 20 years ! Ignore me unless I`m being useful. Normal service will be resumed after a spell in Scotland and a few drams. Just got The Great Dorset Steam Fair to get through first. Five days talking seriously about the difference between one Lister Stationary engine and another and being told that Aveling and Porter`s Pre 1921 shade of green was a fraction , just a fraction , yellower than our version, and if you paint your steam engine`s chimney with Dulux it`ll NEVER burn off...............................

Badoer ! A bloody good driver but somewhat out of both practice and his depth. He`ll go better at Spa.

I think.

Cheers

Bewildered of Stourbridge

Edited August 28, 2009 by Phil Speight

[RLWP]

Sorry - sometimes I find myself reading through paint related streams and wondering what`s so mysterious about the subject !

 

Dear Bewildered of Stourbridge,

 

Paint. It's coloured stuff that comes in tins that you smear on with a stick with a hairy end to make things pretty. You give it to very small children to daub on paper or smear with their fingers. Everyone has an early introduction to paint.

 

If you are of a certain age and sex you dabbed, blobbed and brushed it onto Airfix kits to make a pleasing effect. Those tins of Humbrol went straight on, no prep, no undercoat and made a nice effect as long as you didn't put you fingers on it before it dried. Then, as you grew up you found that the Luftwaffe or the Southern Railway didn't use the same shade of green as the tin you had, so you learned to specialise and be fussy about colours. The stuff still went on fine though.

 

Some day you grew up and bought a house and had to paint something. Your Dad told you tales of primer, undercoat and topcoat, but paint manufacturers new you didn't want to have to mess with all that so they made miracle one-coat self priming paints. You painted them on with the cheapest brushes Woolworths could sell and stood back to admire the effect. Next year it didn't look quite as good but as it was outside you didn't notice. After five years you gave it a bit of a rub and painted it again. Inside things got even easier. Emulsions that you could throw up with a roller and wash with water.

 

Then you buy a boat. It's pretty and shiny and you love it! It looks good for a few years apart from the scratches and you can keep it shiny with those magic products for cars with silicon in them.

 

But eventually you have to do something about the paint because it's getting tatty. So you approach an expert who talks in a foreign language about fillers, stoppers, tack rags, coloured undercoats, topcoats, laying off, varnishing and lacquering. He wants to sell you lots of different kinds of painty stuff, most of which are not the colour you wanted to put on, and loads of really expensive sandpaper that's too fine to see the grains on. He talks about preparation being important when clearly he's talking about wiping a bit of emery cloth over the old paint. The man is obviously trying to rip you off because, although you know those tins of Humbrol would be too expensive, the Pound Shop has some tins of paint in the right colour suitable for garden gates, windows, floors, doors, bathroom fittings and landscapes.

 

We have lost touch with the reality of paint. We don't paint like we used to. We have plastic windows, doors and gutters on our houses so the difficult outside stuff isn't done any more. Inside we use one-coat paints on wood. We don't "touch up" cars because we don't keep them long enough to need to. Our relationship with paint no longer has the understanding it once had.

 

So, dear Bewildered, you stand amongst us as a Guru amongst children. We have all had painty fingers and daubed on tins of Dulux in our time and think ourselves skilled but are not even aware of the things we know nothing of. Care for us, have patience with us, gently chide us and help us to learn.

 

Richard

 

And Badoer is out of his depth.

[soldthehouse]

Hi Phil,

 

Do you feel better for that? We have all known for years. Your reputation precedes you by a mile.

 

Richard

 

This bloke Badoer then. Any good, is he?

Agreed, Phil was a god 20 yrs ago. when I was a lad etc etc, i once made the long journey unannounced to Ellesmere Port from Durham to speak to him about painting my unfinished narrowboat, I remember someone saying thats him working that boat throught the lock over there, I was so reserved and he was so well regarded that i totally bottled it and never introduced myself, i will be using his paint on my current project as i have a little more self confidence these days

[Phil Speight]

Agreed, Phil was a god 20 yrs ago. when I was a lad etc etc, i once made the long journey unannounced to Ellesmere Port from Durham to speak to him about painting my unfinished narrowboat, I remember someone saying thats him working that boat throught the lock over there, I was so reserved and he was so well regarded that i totally bottled it and never introduced myself, i will be using his paint on my current project as i have a little more self confidence these days

This is all very kind but I promise you the nearest I`ve ever been to a god was on a track day with someone else`s Testarossa ( The Testarossa Tosser ) - it was shortly before I got completely lost , missed several gears , panicked and only just avoided doing a serious damage to a lot of money !

I`ve just spent most of my working life learning how to do a number of simple associated jobs properly - something well within the grasp of most of us ! I`m still learning in fact.

Bewildered and Humble of Stourbridge

[David Schweizer]

This one?

 

http://www.icipaints.co.uk/products/info/h...xide_primer.jsp

 

Have you tried this on the roof David?

Yes That's the stuff.

 

No I have not used it on the roof, and do not think I ever would, but I use it on the decks because they are subjected to a lot of wear. The Hammerite is quick to apply and, because it is a thick paint, it fills small indentations well and levels itself without any brushmarks. It is quick drying and a second coat can be applied within an hour, so it really is a same day paint.

[Morphyous]

I've just used a red coating on my decks called Protectakote, it comes in a deep maroonish red and a brighter red.

It containes rubber particles and is non slip.

[koukouvagia]

I've just used a red coating on my decks called Protectakote, it comes in a deep maroonish red and a brighter red.

It containes rubber particles and is non slip.

 

...which I found peeled off after a while, even though I'd prepared the surface thoroughly

[Phil Speight]

...which I found peeled off after a while, even though I'd prepared the surface thoroughly

I think the best way to paint a deck is with anything that isn`t a full gloss, doesn`t costmuch, looks ok and is easy to slap another coat over. We use our Raddle because it looks right and is easily recoated - but the cost isn`t an issue because we always have some left from painting roofs and so on. I`d love you all to use it - but I`ve always considered deck paint to be sacrificial to a degree so if you can find something that looks the part for less money I can see no fault in that. Anti-slips tend to be pricey and are harder to keep clean than a non-textured finish. When I used to go boating with Badsey (of fond memory) I painted the back deck before every trip. It only took 10 minutes including prepping.

Cheers

Phil ( feeling less frazzled today ! )

[koukouvagia]

After getting rid of some rust and priming my stern deck with red oxide primer, I'm actually thinking that I like the colour and wouldn't mind that colour in a non-slip deck paint.

What's the best way of achieving this? I want the brown-red colour rather than red and I'd rather not mess around with sand if possible. I guess using a light coloured deck paint like Interdeck (containing aggregates) and then painting over with the red oxide primer isn't an option?

 

 

Another way of dealing with the wear and tear a back deck gets is to use wood. Owl’s deck is made of teak which is bolted onto the steel. A quick sanding and it’s as good as new.

 

Edited August 29, 2009 by koukouvagia

[matty40s]

ah, but thats a real boat. :-)

[AMModels]

Dear Bewildered of Stourbridge,

 

[snipped a great deal]

Richard

 

And Badoer is out of his depth.

 

I have cut the best bits out just cos of the length but that was a brilliant posting!!

[RLWP]

I have cut the best bits out just cos of the length but that was a brilliant posting!!

 

Thank you. Familiar territory I guess?

 

Richard

[Chertsey]

I think the best way to paint a deck is with anything that isn`t a full gloss, doesn`t costmuch, looks ok and is easy to slap another coat over. We use our Raddle because it looks right and is easily recoated - but the cost isn`t an issue because we always have some left from painting roofs and so on. I`d love you all to use it - but I`ve always considered deck paint to be sacrificial to a degree so if you can find something that looks the part for less money I can see no fault in that. Anti-slips tend to be pricey and are harder to keep clean than a non-textured finish. When I used to go boating with Badsey (of fond memory) I painted the back deck before every trip. It only took 10 minutes including prepping.

Cheers

Phil ( feeling less frazzled today ! )

We use it on Warrior - but then most of the boat's painted with it so we always have some spare. I've never found slipping a problem.

[churchward]

We use it on Warrior - but then most of the boat's painted with it so we always have some spare. I've never found slipping a problem.

I find that Raddle in matt/silk finish (Craftmaster version at least) has better grip qualities than gloss and we use it on the counter and fore end (well, will be when I repaint it) plus the gunnels. It's a superb paint very dense in colour it seems to be able to cover over anything underneath no matter what the base colour is.

Edited September 1, 2009 by churchward

[blackrose]

Ok, here's a related question:

 

A couple of parts of my large cruiser stern deck tend to accumulate small areas of standing water in wet weather (due to the size of the deck it would be difficult to build it without this happening). While it's not a problem for me I was just wondering if the red oxide primer and deckpaint can cope with being wet for long periods?

 

I only ask because when I left a piece of carpet tile on the roof (for about a year!) the deckpaint (International Interdeck) came away very easily, almost as if it were porus!

 

Here's a picture of the recently primed deck - if you look carefully you can see a couple of small puddles - one behind the control pedestal.

http://pbr68.photobucket.com/albums/i8/mik...A5MDEtMTkyM.jpg

Edited September 1, 2009 by blackrose