A beginning. And an end.

[davidwheeler]

I am going to have one last go. 

This is the Stroudwater Canal, looking along it towards the Goucester and Berkeley Ship Canal. It is 1957. It may have changed a bit since then. I haven't been there for a while. But this view is typical of that time. There were boats and vessels moored along the towpath from more of less the Junction, up to Walk Bridge, the fixed road bridge which effectively ended navigation. One or two were quite smart boats. The Tranquillo of London, closest to the Junction was a very smart motor yacht. But most were not. You may just be able to make out the shape of the Sunbury Belle, a former steam launch built in 1896, and operating from Worcester. But here in the Stroudwater she was a wreck, soon to be broken up at Sharpness. There was a cabin cruiser, the Coombe Royal, riddled with dry rot. Several Landing Craft Personnel in various stages of conversion or abandonment. Nelson, a narrow boat motor with its massive semi-diesel. Not a Bolinder, but something like. Open to the weather. A sharp-bowed wooden vessel described as an American WW1 sub chaser. An iron boat of indeterminate type which, every weekend while she was there, resounded to the tap tapping of rust removal, never completed. Towards the Walk Bridge end, two residential narrowboats, one said to have been owned by Sir Peter Scott, but then occupied by a lorry driver and his family. Right at the top, by the bridge, the one really well looked after boat, a landing craft conversion, occupied by an elderly Scottish couple who took great pride in their boat and their garden on the tow path. And there was us.

There was Somerset. Very rarely did any boat leave the canal and return. They either arrived and stayed. Or departed for good. We were the exception. We did leave the canal and return and it was difficult. Because we were close to the top end, we had to back down the straight length, negotiate the bend, get past Davies Yard, with its moored barges and boats, back through the Junction swing bridge out into the Ship Canal, and turn. Unless there was no wind at all, which was rare, because either side of the canal was open field, we had to back down under power of our cavitating Hotchkiss Cones, with their lack of thrust and control, fending off from one derelict moored boat to the next. Sometimes we tried with two mooring lines to the non towpath  side but this was fraught with difficulty as the lines got snagged on thorn scrub and old tree stumps. But worst of all was our eventual and usually ignominious arrival, stern first, at the Junction swing bridge under the impassive eye of the bridge keeper. Having first made a hash of getting past Tranquillo without scratching her expensive paintwork. So more often than not, after our lengthy journey from Devon in my father's pre- war Bentley, which in those days nobody wanted but in fact weren't too bad to run because petrol was cheap, we just stayed put on our mooring

Right. Enough for now. I will try to get some photos put on tomorrow. 

[davidwheeler]

Here are a couple. The first one shows our boat just above Davies drydock. We have either just come out or are about to enter it. A not infrequent occurrence. This will be about 1960, because alongside is our new and very light dinghy, useful for getting lines across the cut when we got stuck. In the other photo, just to the right of the folding chair, you may be able to see another dinghy on the bank. This was Leaky Peg. I used to sail this up and down the Stroudwater, and across the fields when there was flooding of the River Stroud.  I will take the story on a bit later.

[davidwheeler]

The Stroudwater in those days was a joy for children. Not only could we sail our dinghy on it, we could paddle around the moored boats and explore the non-towpath side. But better than that, we could squeeze under Walk Bridge, which had a clearance of about one foot. By pushing up against the concrete underside of the bridge we could press our dinghy down enough to pass under it. We then had the canal all to ourselves to the lock. Round that we had to carry the boat and go on up the canal, past the River Stroud, the water getting shallower and shallower until we reached a brick dam. Beyond that even we could not go. In the other direction, the Junction side, we were not allowed to go. But that was full of interest also. Every time a vessel came up or down the ship canal a surge of water would enter the Stroudwater, and move Somerset against its moorings. So we had warning of every large vessel. Down we would go to see what was happening. Sometimes a steam tug, the Speedwell, its engine  quietly hissing, steam from its whistle, listing over through the Ship Canal swing bridge, towing a single wooden barge. Sometimes a diesel tug with five or six lighters laden with timber for Gloucester and Moorlands. Or one of the big Voith Schneider propelled Shell-BP tankers, the biggest of the estuary tankers on the canal, or a Harker Dale barge, light from Worcester, bound for Avonmouth. There were the Healings grain barges. Smaller barges converted from the DIWE fleet and discarded by Harkers, and occasionally the one and only commercial barge operating on the River Avon from Tewkesbury, the Pisgah, which ended up, I think, in France. Lots of interesting and different types of vessel earning their livings. On one day in April 1959, I counted eight Harker tankers, three Shell-BP tankers, two Regent tank barges, three grain barges, two tugs, one towing 5 laden lighters, and a couple of BW narrowboats. Charlie Ballinger did not pass that day, but he frequently did. They passed so close that you could touch them as they went through the swing bridge. Magic, it was.

If we did manage to get out of the Stroudwater with Somerset, we had the two destinations, equal in distance: Gloucester and Sharpness. I will see if I can stick a couple of photos.  if I can find a couple of Sharpness,  I will add them later. 

[IanM]

It's not the River Stroud by the way, it's the River Frome.  It was once called the Stroudwater but not for many years (probably since the Stroudwater Navigation was built).

 

[Chris Lowe]

32 minutes ago, IanM said:

It's not the River Stroud by the way, it's the River Frome.  It was once called the Stroudwater but not for many years (probably since the Stroudwater Navigation was built).

 

Yes and around there was also the Cambridge canal, & Kemmets canal, using parts of the river.

[davidwheeler]

Oh dear. I have got the name wrong again. Sorry about that. The fact is that as children we called it the River Stroud. Anyway it was good fun for us when it flooded. I haven't got a photo of us sailing on its water meadows, but here is one of sailing on the Stroudwater. I doubt it is a sight often seen these fifty years. In the days of trade however no doubt sails were used whenever convenient. And better set than in the photo. The rig was a sliding gunter and something has gone wrong.

Reverting to my story and back to Gloucester. Here is a photo of the docks, looking towards the drydocks. I accept it is a poor shot but it may give some idea of the variety of commercial vessels in the 1950s. In the drydock, the white bows of the Shell Glassmaker. Clustered around the entrance, to the right, Regent King, an unpowered tankbarge, to the left Severn Trader, the first of a new batch of IWE traders of which it was the first and the last, then the diesel tug Severn Iris, and the steam tug Primrose. Plus some lighters the names of which I have forgotten. In the foreground, at left, the Glevum. Now I believe a residential barge in Bristol. Again, I accept it may be difficult to make them out. The quayside right in the foreground, had below it an outlet from one of the mills. From it one could catch good big roach with the aid of a stick with a line and breadpaste hook. Not good to eat but fun to catch.

Now to the other end of the Ship Canal, and our alternative route.  We could not moor in the Dock itself, so we used the Old Dock. Right under the bows of the Gravesend Sea School's Vindicatrix. Just to the left of her is the hull of the schooner Dispatch, built on Speyside and famous in her day. Inboard of her one of the war-built ferro-concrete barges, of which there were a number hanging about the Old and New Docks, all ending up beached on the banks of the Severn at Purton. Save one which was retrieved, towed up to the museum in Gloucester where it stayed for a while before being relegated again, this time to the timber ponds near Sharpness, where it is still, sunk beneath the waters. Our mooring in the Old Docks was quite dramatic.We overlooked the Severn Railway bridge, and the sight and sounds of the river as the tide roared in and out brought home just how dangerous the river could be and was. The weather could change in minutes to a thick mist which blanketed everything. However my father didn't much like being moored close to the tankers, nor did he appreciate the early morning activities of the cadets clumping about on the deck high above us. Here for good measure is a photo of the Regent Queen, fully laden, waiting to depart at 6 a.m. for Stourport. Under the old coal shute. Neither still exist. The Regent Queen was broken up on the foreshore by Sharpness Docks and the coal shute a remarkable building, was demolished. So we moved. Where we then stayed, off and on for three or four years, was at Purton. This was a wild and beautiful place. We could see behind us the railway bridge and watch the steam locomotives trundle across it. And on the other side of the towpath was the Purton Graveyard. In the 1950s it was the finest collection of wooden hulled vessels, both local and national, anywhere in the country. It was visited by the maritime historians of the day. And by me. Just two of my many photos. On the right the former schooner Sarah McDonald, built in Perth in 1867. To the right, the former trow Edith built at Bridgwater in 1901and a local trader, first in sail and then by motor. Both destroyed by arson in 1986. If you go there now, there is little to see. The same vessels from a little distance, but including in the foreground, the Kennet barge Harriett, and the Gloucester built towing barge Dursley. The Harriett remains, I think, sinking ever lower into the mud, with such protection from damage as a scheduled Ancient Monument can command.

Right. That is enough. That is the end of my beginning.

[Stroudwater1]

Lovely stories and memories, thanks for posting. I remember the grain barges going back and forth to Healings Mill Tewkesbury as well as the occasional tanker. Its sad that there is so little traffic now, just the Hotel barge really. However given that the Severn has been in flood for most of the last 2 months its hard to see that commercial traffic would be viable anyway.

 

There is still some remnants of boats at Purton, especially the concrete barges, which are pretty much intact. Its well worth a visit. 

 

Some background on HMS Vindicatrix.

 

https://www.gloucesterdocks.me.uk/sharpness/vindicatrix.htm

 

There is a narrowboat called Vindi Boy I last saw  moored in Stourport basin. This would have been named after Vindicatrix. Former folk trained on the ship were known as Vindi Boys. 

 

 

[davidwheeler]

I really haven't got the hang of this site, have I?  I seem to have duplicated things. Here, anyway,  is one photo I wanted to include. It was taken from the railway leading to the coal shute. 

[Tam & Di]

We did a couple of retail coal trips to Cadbury's Wharf in Frampton early '70s, loading at Gopsall on the Moira. Coal boats to Cadburys were still in people's memories and we had no problem selling some 15-18 tonnes to locals as I recall. The hulks at Purton were still relatively intact at that point. We did continue on to Bath once, long before the K&A was reopened, and someone subsequently sent us postcard showing Towcester moored below Pulteney Bridge.

 

 

[davidwheeler]

I didn't mean to add anything to this part of my story but the mention of Healings at Tewkesbury caused a pang. So I will add a 1960 photo, by my Brownie Box, of one of their barges in the River, I think either Bushley or Apperley, and another alongside the quay.  At far right, alongside the quay is I think Tony, a tanker. Perhaps an effluent tanker. But you may well not be able to see it.

And because they were my favourites, a photo of the three, 50 years later. Handsome, aren't they? Bristol built in 1933/34 by Hills.

[Stroudwater1]

Great pictures- the river is up in the last photo isnt it! I think the second photo could have been taken when they were all laid up awaiting plans on what to do with them.

 

Healings Mill when I last passed by two years ago was looking very sorry for itself. I see its one of the top ten endangered buildings  according to the Victorian Society  in 2021 https://www.victoriansociety.org.uk/news/top-ten-endangered-buildings-2021-healings-flour-mill-and-warehouses-tewkesbury-grade-ii-by-w-h-james-of-tewkesbury-for-samuel-healing-and-son-1865-6

 

 

We once moored just by the mill on the Severn and checked with the Mill if any barge was due in. There wasn't and all was fine, but the fine flour over the boat the next morning, and the noise of machinery in the mill overnight were memorable. The smell of fresh milled flour compensated for the mess though. 

 

Im not sure but I think there was no pontoon to moor by in those days after the lockie stopped for the day, so that concrete area was about the only mooring space below the lock. 

 

 

[davidwheeler]

I am sorry if these don't appeal to you, but they do to me and I doubt they get much publicity so here is the 'Deerhurst', yard number 202 built by Charles Hill & Sons of Bristol in 1933, and 158 gross tons. The one of the three with a motor. The other shows all five of the fleet. 'Bushley' and 'Apperley' built by Hills in 1934 and 1933 respectively, yard numbers 210 and 203, both of 145 gross tons. Built for S. Healing and Sons. 'Tirley,' at far left, built in 1973 by John Harker of Knottingley for the Flixborough Shipping Co Ltd, 186grt, and 'Chaceley' built in 1964 by Harkers 167 grt. Both purchased by Allied Mills in 1975 and converted by R W Davis Shipyard at Saul for self discharging. I do not think they remained much longer together before the three originals were sold off. 'Bushley' remained in the Severn and may well still be so. The other two were sold. One appeared in Bideford for conversion into accommodation. The other I saw in Barnstaple some years ago. Great vessels, all three.

[Stilllearning]

41 minutes ago, davidwheeler said:

I am sorry if these don't appeal to you, but they do to me and I doubt they get much publicity so here is the 'Deerhurst', yard number 202 built by Charles Hill & Sons of Bristol in 1933, and 158 gross tons. The one of the three with a motor. The other shows all five of the fleet. 'Bushley' and 'Apperley' built by Hills in 1934 and 1933 respectively, yard numbers 210 and 203, both of 145 gross tons. Built for S. Healing and Sons. 'Tirley,' at far left, built in 1973 by John Harker of Knottingley for the Flixborough Shipping Co Ltd, 186grt, and 'Chaceley' built in 1964 by Harkers 167 grt. Both purchased by Allied Mills in 1975 and converted by R W Davis Shipyard at Saul for self discharging. I do not think they remained much longer together before the three originals were sold off. 'Bushley' remained in the Severn and may well still be so. The other two were sold. One appeared in Bideford for conversion into accommodation. The other I saw in Barnstaple some years ago. Great vessels, all three.

These photos appeal to me. I spent time in the 90s boating around Tewkesbury and liked the mill and its surroundings.

[IanM]

Some more info on the grain barges https://www.gloucesterdocks.me.uk/vessels/grainbarges.htm

 

I remember seeing either Tirley or Chaceley pass through Gloucester sometime between 1994 and 1996 when I was at college.

[David Mack]

1 hour ago, davidwheeler said:

I am sorry if these don't appeal to you,

What on earth gave you that impression?? The photos you have been posting are a fascinating reminder of waterway sights that we mostly won't see again.

[davidwheeler]

 

I am going to stop here. So that is the beginning and the end.

 

[IanM]

17 minutes ago, davidwheeler said:

 

I am going to stop here. So that is the beginning and the end.

 

 

I'm really not sure why you feel the need to stop.  I think everyone has been enjoying your pictures and stories.

 

 

[Pluto]

A couple of photos from the 1970s:

[ditchcrawler]

The first time I went down there the boats were still there, but I am not sure they were still working 

[Stroudwater1]

Yes please keep posting David, these are outstanding pictures of historical importance 

[Derek R.]

@davidwheeler

"I am sorry if these don't appeal to you, . . . . "

 

What on Earth gives you that idea? As others have stated, these are of great interest to waterways enthusiasts, and your articles/comments and pictures have been of great interest. Sad though it may be that carrying by water has been eclipsed by development dereliction and disuse, such memories should never 'end'. In a topsy turvy world we now are living in, such things are threads of sanity.

[davidwheeler]

To match Pluto's Tirley, here is Chaceley alongside Tirley, below healings Mill. And the two together.I cannot remember the date.

I mentioned the Kennet barge 'Harriett' earlier on. In the black and white image you see the Harriett in early 1965. Shortly after she was placed on the foreshore at Purton. You can gauge how high above the surface she stood, given the quite tall lady nearby. You may also be able to see the Vindicatrix beyond the fourth span of the railway bridge. The colour photo take in May 1996 shows the Harriett as she then was. You can see the effect of time and weather. But not luckily the effect of vandalism. I am not sure of her condition now, but without doubt the Friends of Purton will have done their very best. The CRT as well, I am sure, the vessel being a protected ancient monument.

And here is an example of deterioration other than by natural means. The burnt bows are of the Sally, believed to have been a three masted schooner. By 1969 already attacked by vandals and those seeking to salvage valuable metal fastenings. To my mind, vandals both. By 1996 the vessel is barely recognisable as a ship. Beached at Purton in about 1950.

[Ian Mac]

On 28/02/2024 at 11:12, davidwheeler said:

But better than that, we could squeeze under Walk Bridge, which had a clearance of about one foot. By pushing up against the concrete underside of the bridge we could press our dinghy down enough to pass under it. We then had the canal all to ourselves to the lock.

I knew I had a picture of Walk Bridge somewhere, NB Spey does not currently fit under it,  however we do have a memento somewhere - the piece of concrete we chipped off it.
The missing mile, now has planning permission, so it will not be long till we are all racing down there to get up to Stroud.

[Stroudwater1]

7 hours ago, davidwheeler said:

I mentioned the Kennet barge 'Harriett' earlier on. In the black and white image you see the Harriett in early 1965. Shortly after she was placed on the foreshore at Purton. You can gauge how high above the surface she stood, given the quite tall lady nearby. You may also be able to see the Vindicatrix beyond the fourth span of the railway bridge. The colour photo take in May 1996 shows the Harriett as she then was. You can see the effect of time and weather. But not luckily the effect of vandalism. I am not sure of her condition now, but without doubt the Friends of Purton will have done their very best. The CRT as well, I am sure, the vessel being a protected ancient monument.

And here is an example of deterioration other than by natural means. The burnt bows are of the Sally, believed to have been a three masted schooner. By 1969 already attacked by vandals and those seeking to salvage valuable metal fastenings. To my mind, vandals both. By 1996 the vessel is barely recognisable as a ship. Beached at Purton in about 1950.

 

Here is Harriett pictured in Summer 2022 David. I’m pretty sure the name is still visible carved into the stern. 
 

[davidwheeler]

What a lovely picture. Thank you for that. When I first came across Harriett in 1959 - she had been beached shortly  before, I think - I had to improvise a step, from bits of wood lying around, to get high enough to grab the gunwales and heave aboard. I wanted to note what was left of the interior. I made a sketch of that which I cannot now interpret. The Harriett hasn't always lain undisturbed. At some point not long after she was put ashore a group of men arrived with a JCB. The intention, apparently, was to raise her out of the mud, and carry her off for restoration. It was a bit ambitious. After trying to free her, they realised that their equipment was hopelessly inadequate and they went away. I have a note somewhere of who they were. So the Harriett remains. Pretty well protected now. I am very glad to have seen this photo.