Sandblasting I will try to help your enquiries

[Mick Blackley]

I noticed I have alot of traffic from this site to my videos on YouTube and thort I may be able to help some folk out in return get some help on how I can improve the content. Sandblasting isn't well known well kind of but alot of people don't understand the process and what to expect. My youtube channel isn't an advert for my services just to make that clear I make these videos as a hobby and enjoy makeing them. My noodle is hear to be picked and I will try and help with questions about serface preparation. I am not a painter I don't claim to know about painting bit pointless asking what to coat it with after etc. But anything about blasting I can possibly help out with. Now my bit please see 

any constutive criticism to help me grow as a creator ie camera angles speed/music etc etc please note I'm limited to the music I can use with copyright laws. And just for the folk thinking I'm trying to make money hear somehow I've turned all adverts off all I want is help in making my videos better thanks Mick

[Athy]

That's blasted decent of you. Mick.

Welcome to CWDF.

[David Mack]

I've watched a few of your videos Mick - not just the boat ones, but also cleaning paint off walls, timber beams, machinery and the like. Fascinating stuff and more watchable than you might expect!

[Mick Blackley]

Thx it's something I enjoy doing and hopefully I can change the out look of blasting as it is an industry that gets hit hard with bad hear say story's and 1 bad operator can spoil a full industry. 

[George and Dragon]

Mick, I've not watched the whole video but maybe a bit of commentary would help. I noticed you mark out the area then blast the surface within that area. How do you decide how much to mark out and clean in one go? I see you need a steady hand to follow a seam and I guess it's pretty noisy doing the job, fading the sound up at times might help too. 

 

Other than that I don't know what to suggest - your lighting shows what you do and the camera angle looks like it might be pretty close to what you see - can you get someone to do some wider shots that you could cut in?

[Mick Blackley]

15 hours ago, George and Dragon said:

Mick, I've not watched the whole video but maybe a bit of commentary would help. I noticed you mark out the area then blast the surface within that area. How do you decide how much to mark out and clean in one go? I see you need a steady hand to follow a seam and I guess it's pretty noisy doing the job, fading the sound up at times might help too. 

 

Other than that I don't know what to suggest - your lighting shows what you do and the camera angle looks like it might be pretty close to what you see - can you get someone to do some wider shots that you could cut in?

Thanks for the input really appreciate it. I've tried the commentary before but the noise of the job and my accent make its near impossible to hera what I say and its a lot harder than one would think doing it after the as a voice over. I only mark out the harder areas 1st that way when im on the easier stuff I don't have to concentrate as much and spot any misses as I move along. I don't really have a method in how much I mark out only sometimes I aim for a weld mark or a block its sat on duno why possibly because when I do wagons or more detailed work I like to make sure ive done the area before moving on.

Ive been trying to show as much as possible without the video been along as the job. Do you think the point of view angle should have sound and the time lapse bit have music? ive been playing around with sound and the music choice seams to be working for a wider viewer base  as before a lot would comment on the choice in music that don't seam to happen as much now.

[tree monkey]

15 hours ago, George and Dragon said:

Mick, I've not watched the whole video but maybe a bit of commentary would help. I noticed you mark out the area then blast the surface within that area. How do you decide how much to mark out and clean in one go? I see you need a steady hand to follow a seam and I guess it's pretty noisy doing the job, fading the sound up at times might help too. 

 

Other than that I don't know what to suggest - your lighting shows what you do and the camera angle looks like it might be pretty close to what you see - can you get someone to do some wider shots that you could cut in?

I know when I do big jobs I section out areas in a similar way from strimming big areas full of knarly brambles or digging out deep litter horse stalls, it sort of helps to stop it becoming overwhelming and gives bite sized targets to achieve.

 

I did the same the one and only time I did a bit of sandblasting, a stone at a time and there were a lot of stones, never again will I sandblast.

 

Mick I tend to find the music too much but that's just me

[john.k]

Its impossible to do a  good job unless the hull is on stands high enough for the blaster to stand upright under......movable supports are also needed on the stands to get complete coverage with blast and paint....the stands will also run along track so the hull can be loaded outside the blast room ,pushed in to blast ,and out the other side for paint.....steel grit is the only viable blast agent for rusted steel with pitting.......ideally ,each nozzle will have 500cfm at 120psi  for an efficient job.

[robtheplod]

I know this might be silly but I've always wondered, if you sand blast a narrowboat with 6mm sides, are they 5mm after you finish! 

[Alan de Enfield]

55 minutes ago, robtheplod said:

I know this might be silly but I've always wondered, if you sand blast a narrowboat with 6mm sides, are they 5mm after you finish! 

 

There have been cases, where after blasting, some areas of the boat have become 0.0mm

Q : Is it better to find out the boat has thin areas by blasting 'on the hard', or by waking up one morning, getting out of bed and finding your slippers are full of water ?

[Mick Blackley]

1 hour ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

There have been cases, where after blasting, some areas of the boat have become 0.0mm

Q : Is it better to find out the boat has thin areas by blasting 'on the hard', or by waking up one morning, getting out of bed and finding your slippers are full of water ?

Blasting will only remove the bad mettle/rust/scale/scabs as the media I use is softer. It is impossible for me to dig into steel etc like a grinder would. Pitcher it like trying to rub through 6mm steel with wire wool. That's why I can remove the millscale but not with this media. 

[peterboat]

9 hours ago, john.k said:

Its impossible to do a  good job unless the hull is on stands high enough for the blaster to stand upright under......movable supports are also needed on the stands to get complete coverage with blast and paint....the stands will also run along track so the hull can be loaded outside the blast room ,pushed in to blast ,and out the other side for paint.....steel grit is the only viable blast agent for rusted steel with pitting.......ideally ,each nozzle will have 500cfm at 120psi  for an efficient job.

Mine was glass blasted no rust after it was done it achieved the finish required for Zinga to be applied 

[john.k]

The blast profile must provide a key for the coating system used............which might be inorganic zinc which is zinc powder in zinc ethyl silicate.

[beerbeerbeerbeerbeer]

On 12/12/2021 at 09:16, Mick Blackley said:

Thanks for the input really appreciate it. I've tried the commentary before but the noise of the job and my accent make its near impossible to hera what I say and its a lot harder than one would think doing it after the as a voice over. I only mark out the harder areas 1st that way when im on the easier stuff I don't have to concentrate as much and spot any misses as I move along. I don't really have a method in how much I mark out only sometimes I aim for a weld mark or a block its sat on duno why possibly because when I do wagons or more detailed work I like to make sure ive done the area before moving on.

Ive been trying to show as much as possible without the video been along as the job. Do you think the point of view angle should have sound and the time lapse bit have music? ive been playing around with sound and the music choice seams to be working for a wider viewer base  as before a lot would comment on the choice in music that don't seam to happen as much now.

Great video. 
Play some Sabbath and I’ll watch more of them. 
 

The side of a boat must be pretty straight forward, what’s the most complex/challenging job you’ve done and have you a video of that?

[blackrose]

7 hours ago, john.k said:

The blast profile must provide a key for the coating system used............which might be inorganic zinc which is zinc powder in zinc ethyl silicate.

 

As well as providing a key for the new paint, the main reason people go to the trouble and expense of grit blasting canal boats is to remove crap coatings such as bitumen which some unenlightened narrowboaters and boat builders seem to like.

 

Let's face it, if builders epoxied boats from new then they wouldn't need subsequent blasting. All they'd need is a good key with a sander every 6 - 8 years and another few coats of epoxy.

Edited December 13, 2021 by blackrose

[reg]

7 hours ago, peterboat said:

Mine was glass blasted no rust after it was done it achieved the finish required for Zinga to be applied 

Absolutely essential to get the correct profile befor applying Zinga. 

I chatted to someone a few years ago who's contractor decided to save a few pounds by switching to a cheaper medium without informing them which did not meet the required specification for the Zinga, unfortunately the Zinga did not hold. 

You can prepare the surface for Zinga repairs with a Tercoo tool, this gives the correct profile and when looked at very closely you can make out the small pits in the surface.

 

Maybe the OP may like to do a video at some point on different preparations for different applications, just a thought for the future.

 

Anyway welcome to the forum.

 

 

[beerbeerbeerbeerbeer]

16 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

As well as providing a key for the new paint, the main reason people go to the trouble and expense of grit blasting canal boats is to remove crap coatings such as bitumen which some unenlightened narrowboaters and boat builders seem to like.

 

Let's face it, if builders epoxied boats from new then they wouldn't need subsequent blasting. All they'd need is a good key with a sander every 6 - 8 years and another few coats of epoxy.

What’s you opinion of epoxy  on a wooden boat (from new) ?

 

 

[Mick Blackley]

1 hour ago, Goliath said:

Great video. 
Play some Sabbath and I’ll watch more of them. 
 

The side of a boat must be pretty straight forward, what’s the most complex/challenging job you’ve done and have you a video of that?

Your right sides of boats are plain sailing 😂 I don't get the complex no more I find it all fairly straightforward. I always thort wagon chassis was hard but I learnt and now I enjoy them as much as the next job. The only real pressure I feel is the blow back off the compressor haha no is when I expect a coating to come off easy and then it's like bell metle that's when I feel the struggle to finish on the time said. Loading shovels have alot more skill involved than the videos let on. Every Loading shovel on my channel is done under 8 hour that is some graft in a shift. 

[Mick Blackley]

18 hours ago, john.k said:

Its impossible to do a  good job unless the hull is on stands high enough for the blaster to stand upright under......movable supports are also needed on the stands to get complete coverage with blast and paint....the stands will also run along track so the hull can be loaded outside the blast room ,pushed in to blast ,and out the other side for paint.....steel grit is the only viable blast agent for rusted steel with pitting.......ideally ,each nozzle will have 500cfm at 120psi  for an efficient job.

Sorry I don't agree blasting can be achieved at any cfm that's only the flow (the speed of the area covered) steel shot wouldn't be viable option to blast out in the open with it costing 10 to 15x more than glass and the fact you would need to use 10 to 15x more bags wouldn't make it feasible. What I mean hear is 25kgs of glass has a bigger mass than steel shot 1kg of steel shot will be 1/4 the size of 1kg of glass due to density. Lots of media can be used to achieve a very similar job I pic glass because it cleans fast its none carcinogenic and cost affective. The data sheet of near all paint suppliers say the serface should be clean dry and free from lose materials. If it does ask for a blast spec it will only be light brush off SA1 or SA2 I deliver more near SA2.5 only leaving mill scale. With a mesh grade of 20/40 I can play with media's to get a deeper mesh but it's pointless as 20/40 is more than enough.

[Mick Blackley]

8 hours ago, john.k said:

The blast profile must provide a key for the coating system used............which might be inorganic zinc which is zinc powder in zinc ethyl silicate.

I thort powereds needed static or heat to cure that's not a normal finishing for a boat? I've nether heard of it 

[peterboat]

SA 2.5 is what is required for zinga, I helped do my boat, it was an interesting experience. We blasted so much cleaned it off then gave it one coat of zinga, when the side was finished it received another 2 coats of zinga then zinga blacking. Its not something I would do twice 

[Mick Blackley]

45 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

As well as providing a key for the new paint, the main reason people go to the trouble and expense of grit blasting canal boats is to remove crap coatings such as bitumen which some unenlightened narrowboaters and boat builders seem to like.

 

Let's face it, if builders epoxied boats from new then they wouldn't need subsequent blasting. All they'd need is a good key with a sander every 6 - 8 years and another few coats of epoxy.

I've seen alot of boats get built and the 1st coat of paint on a new boat are lucky if they even scotch the millscale they only need to look good for the builders so they sell. They aren't interested in adding hours of work that don't get seen 

[Mick Blackley]

1 minute ago, peterboat said:

SA 2.5 is what is required for zinga, I helped do my boat, it was an interesting experience. We blasted so much cleaned it off then gave it one coat of zinga, when the side was finished it received another 2 coats of zinga then zinga blacking. Its not something I would do twice 

The only areas I don't achieve SA2.5 on this boat are the underside of the rear I blast it but its nether on the job sheet I do it though as its feels the right thing to do I don't spend as long due to the angle and the water running makes it hard to get in a comfortable possession to hit it how I need too.

Data sheets on paints hardly ever put the blasting spec as it says dry clean and free from lose material and even less they put the mesh grades this in my opinion is just as important as I could use soda I wouldn't for cost but mesh grade would be near shiny hardly any key if any or said before steel shot and go in deep. As a blaster I've to find a cost effective way of hitting a reasonable balance.

[Mick Blackley]

40 minutes ago, Goliath said:

What’s you opinion of epoxy  on a wooden boat (from new) ?

 

 

I wouldn't have any experience with this so I wouldn't be able to offer any advice. All I know is a good clean well prepared serface key would give best results sorry I cannot help

[beerbeerbeerbeerbeer]

1 minute ago, Mick Blackley said:

I wouldn't have any experience with this so I wouldn't be able to offer any advice. All I know is a good clean well prepared serface key would give best results sorry I cannot help

It was a question to Blackrose   
A silly question.