robtheplod 238 Report post #1 Posted November 27, 2020 Hi All Since my stern cover was fitted on the boat I've called the supplier back to replace a rusted bracket/rivet etc and its now happened again - seems like a problem with the quality of fittings? Rather than call them back again I'm thinking I need to sort this myself but not used these things before, would this suffice?? HEAVY DUTY POP RIVET GUN HAND RIVETER TOOL+ 40 RIVETS 4 HEAD NOZZLES S105 | eBay or is there a better device i could do with? Pointers gratefully received! thanks!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nightwatch 1057 Report post #2 Posted November 27, 2020 I may well be wrong, but does Ali and steel not mix. Don’t you need break (rubber washer?) between the tow. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ditchcrawler 2043 Report post #3 Posted November 27, 2020 I hate pop rivets, mine are drill and tapped. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PaulD 45 Report post #4 Posted November 27, 2020 Bi metal corrosion. Fastener should really be the same metal as the handle and cover which look like steel. Why not just use a steel allen screw and nut? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robtheplod 238 Report post #5 Posted November 27, 2020 8 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said: I hate pop rivets, mine are drill and tapped. thats an idea... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Loddon 1920 Report post #6 Posted November 27, 2020 Pop rivets are steel and rust. Stainless steel machine screws don't rust. Drill, tap and use stainless. All mine are and no rust. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chewbacka 615 Report post #7 Posted November 27, 2020 Or steel pop nuts Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Loddon 1920 Report post #8 Posted November 27, 2020 5 minutes ago, Chewbacka said: Or steel pop nuts Mild steel rusts unless painted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chewbacka 615 Report post #9 Posted November 27, 2020 36 minutes ago, Loddon said: Mild steel rusts unless painted. Then Painted steel pop nut Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
noone 116 Report post #10 Posted November 27, 2020 (edited) Try some self drilling tek screws,they come zinc plated..I have had 4 holding my plank and pole holder to the roof of my boat for 20 years...Coming up caen hill,my centre rope got caught in one and bent the brass fitting!,the screws held fast!!.👍 Edited November 27, 2020 by Leggers do it lying down misspelling 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buccaneer66 10 Report post #11 Posted November 27, 2020 1 hour ago, Loddon said: Pop rivets are steel and rust. Not all pop rivets are steel you can also get them in aluminium, bulbtite rivets for example and you can also get them with sealing washers. Closed end rivet AL E/V 4.8 has an aluminium body and can come with a stainless steel mandrel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matty40s 4023 Report post #12 Posted November 27, 2020 This boat came to us, after not being looked after for 14 years. All fittings for cratch cover, previous cratch cover, former pram hood and also former tonneau cover were secured with pop rivets. Even though there was only very thin, oxidized and worn paint left on the boat...there was NO rust in or around said fixings. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Iain_S 528 Report post #13 Posted November 28, 2020 Despite pop rivets being aluminium, and thus higher up the activity series than steel, they usually last quite well. I have had to replace a couple on the Landrover, but the originals lasted 20 years, and the rest are fine. They are great for canopy fixings that have to be replaced every so often, such as turn buttons. Drilling and tapping is probably a better method for fixing these, but you might have to drill out the drill out the fitting a bit, as the machine screws will have to be larger than the rivets were. Unless you can get to the underside and fit a nut? Sort the rust and paint it before re-fixing, and a smear of grease when assembling will help keep the rust at bay. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Slim 328 Report post #14 Posted November 28, 2020 Looking at that photo I suspect that once you've drilled out to tapping size then tapped the thread the two holes would be close to merging. Pop rivets are available in a variety of materials. Monel pop rivets are widely used on offshore boats. I suspect I've got some lost in the depths of my workshop although the chances of finding them are zero. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tracy D'arth 555 Report post #15 Posted November 28, 2020 Weld, done once, end of. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Loddon 1920 Report post #16 Posted November 28, 2020 19 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said: Weld, done once, end of. Until the fastener breaks 😷 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tracy D'arth 555 Report post #17 Posted November 28, 2020 1 minute ago, Loddon said: Until the fastener breaks 😷 Is that likely? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Loddon 1920 Report post #18 Posted November 28, 2020 58 minutes ago, Slim said: Looking at that photo I suspect that once you've drilled out to tapping size then tapped the thread the two holes would be close to merging. Had this when Loddon was repainted, all we did was move the fastener 6mm and filled the old holes, can't do it with pop studs but can be done with all the others. Just now, Tracy D'arth said: Is that likely? Depends on the owner😎 I have seen a bar of the type in the op picture badly bent and have knocked off hooks below the gunwale that hold my cover down so I would say yes. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robtheplod 238 Report post #19 Posted November 28, 2020 Thanks for all the great info... i think I'll probably tap it and put in stainless steel screws as i might already have some of these and i need to try 'tapping' anyway.... This is all on the sliding hatch and my winter project is to remove the hatch and take home (first rig up something temp!) as it has lots of rust spots, or 'bubblings!'. I'll remove the fixings, tap them and pop on once painted, fit some proper insulation on the underside and put some rubber stip across as the hatch lets in water when it rains really hard - in bounces under the lip! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites