Rivet Rivet..

[robtheplod]

Hi All

 

Since my stern cover was fitted on the boat I've called the supplier back to replace a rusted bracket/rivet etc and its now happened again - seems like a problem with the quality of fittings? Rather than call them back again I'm thinking I need to sort this myself but not used these things before, would this suffice?? HEAVY DUTY POP RIVET GUN HAND RIVETER TOOL+ 40 RIVETS 4 HEAD NOZZLES S105 | eBay or is there a better device i could do with?  Pointers gratefully received!  thanks!!

 

 

 

[Nightwatch]

I may well be wrong, but does Ali and steel not mix. Don’t you need break (rubber washer?) between the tow.

[ditchcrawler]

I hate pop rivets, mine are drill and tapped.

[PaulD]

Bi metal corrosion. Fastener should really be the same metal as the handle and cover which look like steel. Why not just use a steel allen screw and nut?

[robtheplod]

8 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

I hate pop rivets, mine are drill and tapped.

thats an idea...

[GUMPY]

Pop rivets are steel and rust. Stainless steel machine screws don't rust.

Drill, tap and use stainless. All mine are and no rust.

[Chewbacka]

Or steel pop nuts

[GUMPY]

5 minutes ago, Chewbacka said:

Or steel pop nuts

Mild steel rusts unless painted.

[Chewbacka]

36 minutes ago, Loddon said:

Mild steel rusts unless painted.

Then Painted steel pop nut

[noone]

Try some self drilling tek screws,they come zinc plated..I have had 4 holding my plank and pole holder to the roof of my boat for 20 years...Coming up caen hill,my centre rope got caught in one and bent the brass fitting!,the screws held fast!!.?

Edited November 27, 2020 by Leggers do it lying down
misspelling

[Chris Lowe]

1 hour ago, Loddon said:

Pop rivets are steel and rust.

Not all pop rivets are steel you can also get them in aluminium, bulbtite rivets for example and you can also get them with sealing washers.

Closed end rivet AL E/V 4.8 has an aluminium body and can come with a stainless steel mandrel.

 

 

[matty40s]

This boat came to us, after not being looked after for 14 years. All fittings for cratch cover, previous cratch cover, former pram hood and also former tonneau cover were secured with pop rivets. 

Even though there was only very thin, oxidized and worn paint left on the boat...there was NO rust in or around said fixings.

 

[Iain_S]

Despite pop rivets being aluminium, and thus higher up the activity series than steel, they usually last quite well. 

I have had to replace a couple on the Landrover, but the originals lasted 20 years, and the rest are fine. They are great for canopy fixings that have to be replaced every so often, such as turn buttons.

 

Drilling and tapping is probably a better method for fixing these, but you might have to drill out the drill out the fitting a bit, as the machine screws will have to be larger than the rivets were. Unless you can get to the underside and fit a nut?

 

Sort the rust and paint it before re-fixing, and a smear of grease when assembling will help keep the rust at bay.

 

[Slim]

Looking at that photo I suspect that once you've drilled out to tapping size then tapped the thread the two holes would be close to merging. Pop rivets are available in a variety of materials. Monel pop rivets are widely used on offshore boats. I suspect I've got some lost in the depths of my workshop although the chances of finding them are zero. 

[Tracy D'arth]

Weld, done once, end of.

[GUMPY]

19 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Weld, done once, end of.

Until the fastener breaks ?

[Tracy D'arth]

1 minute ago, Loddon said:

Until the fastener breaks ?

Is that likely?

[GUMPY]

58 minutes ago, Slim said:

Looking at that photo I suspect that once you've drilled out to tapping size then tapped the thread the two holes would be close to merging.

Had this when Loddon was repainted, all we did was move the fastener 6mm and filled the old holes, can't do it with pop studs but can be done with all the others.

Just now, Tracy D'arth said:

Is that likely?

Depends on the owner? I have seen a bar of the type in the op picture badly bent and have knocked off hooks below the gunwale that hold my cover down so I would say yes.

[robtheplod]

Thanks for all the great info... i think I'll probably tap it and put in stainless steel screws as i might already have some of these and i need to try 'tapping' anyway....

 

This is all on the sliding hatch and my winter project is to remove the hatch and take home (first rig up something temp!) as it has lots of rust spots, or 'bubblings!'. I'll remove the fixings, tap them and pop on once painted, fit some proper insulation on the underside and put some rubber stip across as the hatch lets in water when it rains really hard - in bounces under the lip!