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Filling a hole.


eid

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18 minutes ago, eid said:

Thanks I'll look into that.

 

Is this the stuff?

That's it, would be worth asking anyone mechanically minded that you know as most will have an open bottle of this hanging around somewhere as its not cheap.

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I find the best method is to cut the end off the bolt, a bit of epoxy on the threaded end then screw it back in until it is a couple of mm below the surface, when the epoxy has set, a bit of filler in the ‘pit’. When the filler has set, sand it flush and smooth and when painted it is invisible.

Edited by Chewbacka
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21 hours ago, PaulJ said:

It may be a problem if you were to try doing this with a bolt that was underwater but it wont be an issue on the roof!

 

 

The person who told me this said that they actually saw "fizzing" coming from the anodes as someone was welding (above the water line).

 

20 hours ago, David Mack said:

Or if you have access, screw the bolt in from the inside until it is tight and grind off the projecting thread on the outside.

 

Unfortunately not.

 

15 hours ago, jacko264 said:

Hi if you don't want to put bolts in the holes then you could countersunk the holes and use belzona liquid metal its for repairing engines etc

Look up Belzona 1111 for usage

Graham

 

I was considering using liquid metal but I have never used it before and was wondering why no one had suggested it.

 

1 hour ago, David Mack said:

Have all these suggestions stopped your mind from wandering?

 

I'm probably going to use the bolt with epoxy/nutlock method which seems the best to me.

 

Thank you everyone for your suggestions.

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43 minutes ago, Ray T said:

I'm surprised no one has used this method.

 

 

I must admit I relate to poor Henry and his troubles. Thank goodness for Liza...err.. Canal World.

 

eta: On second thoughts that's probably not the best analogy ?

Edited by eid
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Many years ago I read an item in Practical Boat Owner about two young lads who had been sailing offshore in a wooden centreboard dinghy. A few miles offshore the wooden centreboard casing started to leak around the joint between the casing and the deck. They didn't have anything on the board to stop the leak to allow them to get home safely until one of them remembered that they had brought some processed cheese sandwiches. They chewed a couple of sandwiches to form a thick, putty-like substance which they successfully used to plug the leak. This allowed them to get back to shore safely and they decided to defer repairing the leak until the next day. However, they forgot all about it and the cheese sandwich "putty " remained in place, and was still there when they sold the boat many years later! The moral is, always have a few slices of processed cheese on board - you never know when it may come in handy!

 

Howard

Edited by howardang
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8 hours ago, eid said:

 

The person who told me this said that they actually saw "fizzing" coming from the anodes as someone was welding (above the water line).

 

 

Unfortunately not.

 

 

I was considering using liquid metal but I have never used it before and was wondering why no one had suggested it.

 

 

I'm probably going to use the bolt with epoxy/nutlock method which seems the best to me.

 

Thank you everyone for your suggestions.

“Liquid metal” is just a filled resin that cures as the solvent evaporates.  Not so different from other fillers, but it is designed to be tough.

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There arewaterproof electric glands that you have to pierce to allow cable access. You could possibly use something like that. This suggestion is based on the fact that tomorrow your or if you sell others needs might change. I appreciate aesthetics may be important to you.

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3 hours ago, jddevel said:

There arewaterproof electric glands that you have to pierce to allow cable access. You could possibly use something like that. This suggestion is based on the fact that tomorrow your or if you sell others needs might change. I appreciate aesthetics may be important to you.

Not a bad idea actually. Thanks I'll think on it.

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