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treat oak trim on new hatch windows ?


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Got some very nice new hatch windows (c/o Mr Kedian) - strawpoll: What would be best product to treat and preserve oak trim on inside (not varnish) ??

(I was thinking Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus) ?

IMG_20190215_130322.jpg

Edited by Sassy Lass
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If you do not apply some sort of sealing finish, the oak will go grey in time. I would probably go for a good quality Yacht Varnish, and although I have never used it, I have been told that Le Tonkenois is also vey good.

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Thanks for all advice. It was oak-going-grey thing that I wanted to avoid postpone as much as possible - do you think Sikkens wont protect from that ?. Anyone actually put Sikkens on oak on a boat - does it work ?. If not then maybe osmo ? - which one  ?? 410 protection oil ?.

Edited by Sassy Lass
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Sadolin, it comes in several grades and colourways. Exterior will outlast anything else. if prepped it will last five years outside in all  weathers. 2.5 coats.

Le Tonkinois will give a perfect glass gloss finish only if prepped meticulously, you must be dust free, grease free, use tack cloth and a clean brush 120 grit to prep for first coat which may be a sealing [diluted coat]. then follow directions, I find it quite thick,  I would try foam brushes.

Edited by LadyG
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Since I had new wooden window reveals fitted in 2014 I use Barbour Thornproof Wax Dressing. They still look like new as the condensation just forms beads on the frame and does not penetrate the wood. I apply twice a year with a lint free cloth.

 

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1 hour ago, LadyG said:

Sadolin

In my experience it’s as rubbish as most other exterior finishes since it was reformulated to reduce the VOC content. Used outside it peels and cracks, which it didn’t used to do. It also obscures the wood grain as opposed to enhancing it. 

2 hours ago, Sassy Lass said:

Anyone actually put Sikkens on oak on a boat - does it work ?

Nope, but I have used LeTonkenois and that gives an excellent finish. Here it is on some mahogany (well, utile actually)

FDE1AE5E-CBBA-4F5B-A9DD-7AAC90267CB6.jpeg.5542631ca3e5fe4414be66fa0c651346.jpeg

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17 minutes ago, WotEver said:

In my experience it’s as rubbish as most other exterior finishes since it was reformulated to reduce the VOC content. Used outside it peels and cracks, which it didn’t used to do. It also obscures the wood grain as opposed to enhancing it. 

Nope, but I have used LeTonkenois and that gives an excellent finish. Here it is on some mahogany (well, utile actually)

 

I agree, most of the quick application finishes are of limited worth., especially the water based ones. I have an antipathy towards any timber finishes which are not transparent and sovent based. They can still be obtained if you seek out proper Paint Merchants.

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Any finish which is not clear will colour the wood with every application. After a few years you might just as well of painted it.

 

By the way, LeTonkenois does not have to be a gloss finish.

 

It is very easy to apply if you follow the instructions, leave a full 24 hours between coats!

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42 minutes ago, magictime said:

Good grief, we have the same Kedian doors and just put three coats of Ronseal exterior varnish on. Starting to wonder what kind of schoolboy error we've made!

Hmm! isn't that water based? It may be OK, but it would be interesting to learn how long that lasts. As already indicated, I would only use a spirit based varnish for exterior use, my preference is for Blackfriars Super Yacht Varnish or Exterior Varnish which is a little easier to find than LeTonkenois.

 

 

Edited by David Schweizer
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17 hours ago, WotEver said:

Le Tonkenois. But it’s varnish. 

 

I agree, it brings out the grain beautifully and is very glossy, but csn be matted to thevsheen ofvyour choice by adding their matting agent.

 

 

15 hours ago, Fly Navy said:

Osmo

 

15 hours ago, David Schweizer said:

Yes it is, but it is an exterior finish designed to protect garden furniture from the elements.

 

Osmo oil needs to be recoated at least annually as it quickly degrades when exposed to UV. Its only saving grace is that it is quick and easy to apply another coat.

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7 hours ago, LadyG said:

Sadolin.

 

I used this on my Cratch boards, inside and out, having used it on my first shareboat with good results.As WotEver says, since the VoC reduction it is useless. It started to come off the outside of my Cratch board within 6 months.

 

 

5 hours ago, WotEver said:

In my experience it’s as rubbish as most other exterior finishes since it was reformulated to reduce the VOC content. Used outside it peels and cracks, which it didn’t used to do. It also obscures the wood grain as opposed to enhancing it. 

Nope, but I have used LeTonkenois and that gives an excellent finish. Here it is on some mahogany (well, utile actually)

FDE1AE5E-CBBA-4F5B-A9DD-7AAC90267CB6.jpeg.5542631ca3e5fe4414be66fa0c651346.jpeg

 

I sanded it back to bare wood and put 6 coats of Le Tonkenois on and 3 years later it still looks great.

Edited by cuthound
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29 minutes ago, Fly Navy said:

wotever.

 Personally that is a beautiful (Houdini) roof light!

Surely this is bespoke. Did you make this ?

Thanks :)

 

Yes, I made it for one of the members here who was in a bit of a bind. It’s pretty big - 1800x940 - with stainless and chrome fittings to suit the rest of his widebeam. It’s known as a ‘dog box’ but I’m not sure why. 

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1 hour ago, WotEver said:

Thanks :)

 

Yes, I made it for one of the members here who was in a bit of a bind. It’s pretty big - 1800x940 - with stainless and chrome fittings to suit the rest of his widebeam. It’s known as a ‘dog box’ but I’m not sure why. 

 

I think there might be two "l's" and a "u" missing from the highlighted word ?

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that dog box is the dog's b*ll*cks...

 

Thanks folks, so the final bake-off seems to be between: Osmo polyx vs Le Tonk (say, 3 coats too ) ?

 

For me I think Osmo as : I dont want high gloss (or faff of adding gellomat) , and, the killer :  I dont want to sand between every coat (as per Le Tonk FAQ here

 

They seem very similar btw... Osmo polyx "Based on natural plant oils and waxes (sunflower oil, soya oil, thistle oil, carnauba wax and candelilla wax), paraffin, siccatives (drying agents) and water-repellent additives. Dearomatized white spirit (benzene-free). EU limit value for this product (cat. A/i): 500 g/l VOC (2010). This product contains max. 500 g/l VOC. Detailed declaration of ingredients available upon request". Whereas, Le Tonk : "Ingredients Pure resin modified through high temperature curing, Linseed oil, Tung oil, vegetable driers and thinners. Does not contain petroleum based solvents."

 

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7 minutes ago, Sassy Lass said:

They seem very similar btw... 

They’re world’s apart. If you don’t recoat Osmo yearly it will fail. Le Tonk can be left alone for years with no ill effects. 

 

The reason that you have to sand between coats (it’s actually more a key than a flat down) for Le Tonk and not for Osmo is that Le Tonk builds body and thickness whereas Osmo doesn’t. 

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