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stegra's Achievements



  1. No offence, your post was very good but I didn't press the green button once again. It takes two clicks anyway so definitely not in error.
  2. Well, thank you. I've changed my password just in case someone's being generous on my behalf. Nope. Wasn't trying to reply. In fact some of them were when I wasn't reading the forum.
  3. What's going on? I seem to be giving out random greenies all over the place. Not a massive issue but might be a bit confusing for the recipients.
  4. I would make absolutely certain that there is fluid in it as a start. It just untwists from underneath.
  5. How is the starter battery tied in with the leisures? Does it have a voltage sensing relay? If you use a dual sensing relay, the solar will charge the starter battery when the leisures reach a certain voltage and the alternator will charge the leisures when the engine is running. I think that's right anyway. Someone might be along shortly to correct me.
  6. Could well be. Most push-fit connectors have a rubbery O-ring, then a rigid plastic washer, then the toothed ring, and then the arrow shaped bit that prises the teeth open if the fitting is demountable. But if you have it apart, better to replace the fitting to be certain.
  7. It depends on the ballast. If you mean empty as in without ballast, then 15 tonnes is probably about right. Ballast alone could be over six tonnes so finished weight will likely be over 25 tonnes.
  8. Your second diagram still includes an nvr. The only type of nvr that might work in a gravity circuit is a clack valve positioned horizontally. Your third diagram includes a tap above the radiators; I assume this was an oversight. A back boiler on solid fuel stove needs extra precautions in case of boiling as the heat can't be switched off. Normally there is a dedicated radiator to act as a heat sink on a purely gravity circuit. If the calorifier circuit is pumped then an injector tee might be used to direct the flow away from the heat sink except when overheating. It seems your plan is for the calorifier circuit to be gravity and for the radiators/taps to be gravity. This is a slow way of moving the heat if the calorifier gets too hot. There are thermally controlled devices that allow cold water into the system in case of overheating but I think they require 240v.
  9. I think it's a non starter. If I understand correctly, your plan is to use the calorifier as a heat store so it will have to be up to temperature before you get heat to the radiators. Normally there will be one circuit for the calorifier and another for the heating. There will surely be times when you want as much heat as possible to the radiators without wasting energy heating the domestic water. The conventional method starts to heat up the radiators immediately rather than having to heat a full tank of water first. If the main goal is to reduce water loss while waiting for the hot to reach the tap, why not look at creating a hot 'ring' with its own pump and short tails from this to the taps. The pump could just be run for a few moments to get the hot around the ring. Not sure if this is viable or not and it would need an nrv in parallel like you have in your diagram.
  10. Those USB sockets take a constant draw even when not in use (unless you have a switch in the circuit). Might be worth considering a double cigar lighter socket and a removable USB adapter. Gives a bit more flexibility as well. Edit: reading the original post again, it's not clear that you're using those USBs.
  11. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  12. I was about to say the same thing. I think perhaps that the homeless were more ostracised from society and so less visible. I remember there being many tramps living in woods outside of town.
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