Search the Community

We are planning to have a gap year cruising around the canal network in a couple of years time, we have both finished our careers and will be moving to the coast after a few adventures, we have just one more child to see off to Uni. That planning stage is now to the point of adding solar panels to the roof, I have made a few selections based of months of research and asking questions and I have started documenting the plan on the blog, at the moment we have looked at size and positioning https://floydtilla.co.uk/2023/03/13/planning-for-solar-panels-part-1/ Then how to mount them https://floydtilla.co.uk/2023/03/25/planning-for-solar-panels-part-2-panel-mounting-options/ then types of panels https://floydtilla.co.uk/2023/04/02/planning-for-solar-panels-part-3-types-of-panels/ There will be more to come over the next few months while we sort out all the other parts, but I am open to idea/options as we plan this install, please let me know what you think, what tricks I have missed that should be included. Thanks David

Hi all! I have a 240V/16A (shore power) coming into the boat. It goes through a Victron unit which controls the 3 leisure batteries (wired positive to positive) and 1 starter battery. I'm thinking of adding a solar panel to the boat. Normally, I would put the solar panel to the controller then to the first leisure battery. Would this confuse the Victron, or is that the done thing with Victron units? Thanks!

i had a 100W flexible fixed panel that got water damage after 3 years. and want to replace it. i would like a 50-100% increase in battery charge. i do a 6-8 week cruise in the summer and occasional long weekend cruises between April and October (Inclusive). initially i thought of getting a slightly larger panel with tilting mounting, but I'm beginning to think 2 fixed panels would do the same for a similar cost. i stuck my original panel which seemed good but water got under it and eventually all the paint became a soggy mess and the panel failed. I'm not keen on drilling & screwing to the roof as water might get through, so thinking of magnets. and I'm wondering about whether to have them connected serially or in parallel. parallel seems better for summer and serial for winter. and i want to avoid too many connections and keep it simple. i would welcome suggestions on the best panels and mounting systems and connections.

Hi all, Another post about solar! I've got my set up sorted I think (2 x 290W panels, all the other stuff..) but I could do with some advice on the solarboxes I'm planning on building myself. I After much reading and looking at other boats, I've got a design I think will work and fit my boat. Boxes: Made from decking as is often the case, with oak supports inside. No hinges, the legs from the lid will support the panel when it's propped open to get more sun. Should allow opening on the log or short side. A chain will be secured into the panel and into the base, stopping anyone lifting it off (hopefully). Box 1: Sits ahead of my centre line (well clear, shouldn't be an issue with the rope). Offset to starboard to allow passage along the roof. Clear of mushroom vents. Box 2: Sets above the rear cabin, partially covering the open hatch, with space before the pigeon box (see picture). Slightly offset to starboard again, but less room here. Hopefully enough space around sides to accommodate centre lines. I'm just looking for any advice on this, as it'll be my first time building these. If I've made a rookie error, or if there is something you think would really help please let me know! Again, sorry for another solar post, hopefully this one will be useful to future boaters planning on building their own boxes.

I tried doing a CCTV thing before using an old mobile phone (for wifi) and a USB camera, but that (I think) knackered my battery and had other problems. Anyway, this is version 2.0 using a solar powered Reolink 4G camera: It comes with a Vodafone 4G SIM card (£4/mth unlimited data). You register it using an app then pop it into the camera. Voila! You're online. You then install the Reolink app. Link the app to the camera and you're good to go. TALK - let's you send audio from your phone to the camera. Such as to frighten the bejeezus out of people PTZ - is to rotate the camera up/down and left/right PLAYBACK - to view footage. Footage is saved to the supplied SD card PIR - let's you set an alert if something moves QUALITY - let's you adjust the record (HD) quality and the 4G view (low) quality. Full screen (low 4G quality). Full screen with PTZ. Just fitted this. So we'll see how it goes. At least this set up can't kill my leisure battery. ? I got mine from Amazon.co.uk (~£230). Search for: 'Reolink 3G/4G LTE Pan Tilt Solar Security Camera' (Don't want to post a link in case it's against site policy and all that jazz)

Hi all - hoping someone might be able to help troubleshoot a solar charging problem. The problem is: it isn't working. The set up has worked perfectly since I installed it 5 years ago, and nothing in this system or any of the electrics on the boat has been changed recently. Yesterday, I noticed the epever xtra MPPT controller was showing the panel had light, but it was not charging. Vpanel = ~12.4v and Vbatt =12.6v at that time. This was around midday, it was working in the morning. I have a second identical and fully working MPPT controller, so first thing I did was rewire into this one - same problem, so not the controller. I was also able to switch out the panel with another similar one - same problem, so not the panel (I also tried the second panel on both controllers). So presumably the problem lies between controller and batteries? The batteries are healthy, they charge fine with the engine running and they hold their charge. One thing I noticed is when I ran the engine and Vbatt went up to around 13.4V, the Vpanel shown on controller was ~13.1v. I also tested the wires from the panel when disconnected from the controller, and it was giving 31V. So, something in my electrics is dragging it down? I took out a single leisure battery and connected the controller direct to this, so nothing else on the system. Same problem - still showing not charging, and volts always about 0.2v below Vbatt. This has my completely stumped, so any other thoughts very welcome! Thanks, Andrew

Hi all, Spring is approaching and so is all of that glorious sunshine (hopefully). I currently have a presumably very old 80w sony solar panel on my boat. I'd like to move this to the roof bow and have this charge a set of batteries I have going spare in the cratch, which will be hooked up to a 600w inverter for occasional use (a blender mainly! ). I am going to visit the Bimble warehouse next week to with the intention to purchase three of their own branded 100w solar panels, a MTTP controller (undecided which one) and obviously cable. These will charge my 440ah battery bank at the aft, which is also charged via alternator and powers all appliances. Ideally, I'd like the solar to be able to turn 360 degrees on its horizontal and 90 degrees, or close to on it's vertical. The easiest way I have thought of is through making a box for the panels to sit on with arms/legs on each corner which can be placed in positions to tilt the panels, dependent on where the sun is. (I hope that makes sense) Does anyone have any suggestions re mounts? Any experience dealing with Bimble and their own branded solar? How do people secure their solar to save them being stolen? The panels im looking at are ~0.67m wide, which gives plenty of space to walk either side, does anyone have solar which covers the entire width of the roof (1-1.3m)? any feedback/constructive criticism would be very much appreciated. Cheers and happy boating George

Hi, I am looking to put solar panels on my boat. I'm in the Milton Keynes area for the next month or so and would like to find a decent solar fitter who could advise on the fitting of panels to my boat. My initial concern is what can be fitted if anything. The boat is quite small with not much room on the roof. Also routing of the wires and gizmos inside the boat. I want the wires routed properly and hidden as much as possible. Any recommendations?

Hi there, I’m fairly new to boat building and am in the initial stages of fitting out my boat. I did have a look but couldn’t find anything on the following questions. I have a couple questions that I could really use an experienced boaters expertise on: I currently have a 55hp canalline engine onboard with the normal two alternators, the domestic is a 12v 175A alternator. My first question is: does anyone have experience with replacing it with a larger alternator? For example a 24v 400A alternator? If yes, how did it go? How did you mount it? I appreciate running your engine is not pleasant for boating neighbours and know about the restrictions in time when running it. In order to prevent the alternator from running at idle and not pulling through that many amps, is there anything stopping me disengaging the gear wire on the engine and throttling a little bit? At the moment the main thing I’m trying to work out is if I should fit a bigger alternator and run the engine for 45mins a day or go with solar and run the risk of it getting stolen in London. I’m sure I will have loads more questions in the future but to start with thanks for your help with these two.

Hi all we have just moved to a new mooring where there is no power hook up , it’s idyllic however so worth that. Looking to add more solar and upgrade my battery bank . Currently we have 4 x 135Ah wet batteries and they are at end of life . I am looking at the following options after taking a lot of advice , 5 x 120 Ah 12 v gel Batteries or 5 x similar rated Trojans wet batteries . Which is best ? Advice please Obv wets need topping up which is a pain in my boat as there is poor access to battery bank but they are cheaper . I am leaning towards the more expensive gels at present due to dod and low maintenance Regards Simon

Morning everyone, Have just completed purchase of our first boat. 56' x 12 built in 2006. I intend doing a reburbishment over the coming 6 months or so but really need advice. 1st - a generator ideal for the boat but initially to run my power tools inc a Dewalt table saw. 2nd (and most important) - PLEASE, can someone recommend roughly what I should fit for solar, batteries and panels, to cover most of our needs as liveaboard continuous cruisers.. Currently have a solid fuel stove and back boiler. Would like to install oil fired boiler. Power expectations are all the usual appliances but not dishwasher. Standard fridge freezer, washing machine, TV, 12v lighting, laptops, radio......hot water and heating would be superb even if only partial. I assume being a Widebeam, roof space isn't the main issue. I've read so much it's confusing. As we live in a cloudy part of th world and the cut is shady, would amorphous panels be the better choice? I've no idea about this stuff yet. Equipment required, set up plans, where to buy, what to buy and how much to buy- would all be very helpful. I'm sorry if this repeats a previous post, and I thank you all in advance. Cheers all.

Hi all. I have just installed 2x150w panels solar in parallel with a bn series mppt and mt 50 control panel. So far it has been ok, however, after running engine for a while this morning, in hot sun, the domestic alternator charge warning light came on bright. Thought the belt had broken to start with but it was ok. The light was going off and coming on sporadically. sometimes flashing. batteries were showing full-ish on the mt50. I disconnected the panels and all back to normal! so it appears some type of feed back? could it be a dodgy diode in the alternator? or something else? too much power from battery light feed to alternator because of Solar? Please, ideas anyone? The Alternator is wired in separately with a switch in the exciter/light feed wire. alternator and solar charge cables feed to the same battery terminals. should I change to a different terminal? Help!!!

I currently have 3 x 250W + 1 x 250W panels connected. The string of three are connected in series through a 60A controller, the 1 panel is connected through a seperate controller. I would like to change the configuration to 2+2 in series, as one of the controllers is playing up and needs replacing. I was originally considering the Tracer BN series (40A) controller, but upon browsing, came across these(Tracer 7810):- https://www.bimblesolar.com/offgrid/mppt/Waterproof-Tracer7810BP Now I know they are only rated at 30A (390W at 12V). My panels are 43 V open circuit,and they are flat mounted. Would 2 of these controllers be ok, or should I go for the 2x40A? Thanks as always

School boy question. I want to fit some solar panels to my boat but want to check that I'm going about it correctly as I'm pretty new to working with 12V electrics. Do I or can I connect the cables from the Solar Charge controller directly to the + and - terminals on my battery bank or to the isolator terminals? I know that the best way should be to have the batteries connected to bus bars but my system doesn't have these at present, the batteries are connected to the isolator with an Adverc battery management system and a constant feed to the fridge. See photos. Also is it ok to run the 12V cables from the panels across (at 90degrees to) other electric cables (12v and 240V) in my switch cupboard? Any pointers and advice gratefully recieved.

I've just installed a Tracer 4215BN MPPT 40amp Solar controller from Bimble Solar with a 255w panel feeding 4x Trojan T105 6v batteries. I've set up the user parameters as best I can but there are a couple I'm not 100% sure about... I have set the following which are as close to the Trojan recommended settings: Boost/Bulk Charge: 14.80 Float Charge: 13.50 Equalise Charge: 16.20 Under the section Battery AH should I put 225 or 450? I've currently got it at 225 but think that it should probably 450 as the total for the bank @ 12v? Other settings I've got but not sure about and would like some clarity are: Over Voltage Disconnect: 16.3 as this is 0.1 above Equalise Boost Reconnect: 13.2 (default) Low Voltage Reconnect: 12.6 (default) Under Voltage Reconnect: 12.2 (default) Under Voltage Warning: 12.0 (default) Low Voltage Disconnect: 11.1 (default) Discharge Limit: 10.6 (default) Equalise Time: 120mins (default) Boost Time: 120mins (default) Temperature Compensation Coefficient: -3mv/C/2v however the Trojan site says: Add 0.005 volt per cell for every 1°C below 25°C and Subtract 0.005 volt per cell for every 1°C below 25°C - so should I change the setting to -5mv? Many thanks in advance.

4 amps of solar? In Scotland?! Well, I'll be...

Hi there, I’m wondering if someone can help me. I’ve just installed 2 solar panels (in series) and they don’t seem to be charging my batteries. 2 x 320w panels (mono crystalline) 1 x 60A outback MPPT charge controller 4 x 6v Trojan t-125 240AH batteries in series and parralell connection giving 480AH in total. Ive checked all the connections. Seems fine. Battery monitor is saying the voltage from the charger is what the batteries are at. However the perctage on the monitor has stayed the same. Can someone please help?! I thought I’d have full batteries everyday with 640W of solar but so far nothing! Hope thats enough info, thanks in advance!

Does anybody have any helpful tips on powering our 60 by 10 wide beam to make us as off grid as possible. I need advice in all aspects and I'm not sure where to start. any websites, phone numbers or general advice will be gratefully received.

Hi everyone, Can anyone recommend a good, well-designed ventilation fan for a bathroom that works both on solar and battery back up? Are solar fans powerful enough, do you think? Or would it be better to get a fan that connects to the 12v system? If so, any suggestions for this also? Thanks, everyone, for your advice. Alan

Hi All, We have a fairly simple solar controller set up; Victron Energy Blue Solar PWM 20a 12-24v Dual Battery solar controller which doesn't offer much in the way of solar management, display etc. The control panel for this is more or less the same price as the controller itself. Ideally i would like to up grade the controller system to allow for a better visual and more efficient use of my solar. Can anyone recommend a good controller system that could be put in place of the Solar dual?

Hi all battery afficionados I am about to take new batteries down to the boat and do the change over. I have searched the forum and found some interesting things I did not know before. Now I would like some clarification. The old set up (six batteries 110Ah) was always a bit higgeldy piggeldy as we couldn't fit all the ends onto the terminals. When I had to buy new batteries at short notice we basically had to do the same again so Set 2 comprises 5 leisure batteries 115Ah I will label them A to E. Positive side Battery A currently has solar cable and one from the Isolator Switch and link to battery B Battery B has two links A and C Battery C has link to B and D as well as smartgauge Battery D has link to C and E as well as one to the Isolator Switch Battery E has link to D Negative side Battery E has link to D and one to Victron and one to the Mikuni Battery D has links to E and C and one to the smartgauge Battery C has links to B and D and one to the solar panels Battery B has links to A and C and one to Victron Battery A has link to B and one off to the Starter Battery Now the 4 new batteries 160Ah have a M8 bolt type fitting so no need for the terminal clamps as used previously so we hope that it will be easier to fit more cables to a single post. The proposed layout is going to be Positive side Battery A has both the Isolator cables and the link to B Battery B has link A and C Battery C has link to B and D Battery D has Link from C and solar and Mikuni and smartgauge (ie 4 one large and three small) Negative side Battery D has link to C and both large cables to Victron Battery C has links to D and B Battery B has links to A and C Battery A has link from B then the large one to Starter battery and the negatives to Solar Mikuni and smartgauge. I am reasonably happy with this BUT which order should I pile the cable ends for best connection (thinking smartguage here) (My reasoning for putting both Isolator switch connections to one and both Victron to the other is I am not 100% sure why there are two or if this is immaterial or not and if material and I put them the wrong way around it could mean that they are not going to pass through the whole bank. If you get my drift.) I have printed off the smartgauge info linked to in a previous post about how to correctly interconnect multiple batteries but a) this doesn't address the issue of all the other items connected to the bank. I have basically assumed that by having the charger going one way and the solar and everything else going the other way around that that is okay. Otherwise Everything would have to go onto two diagonally opposite terminals and b ) we don't have enough extra cabling to do the fancy Methods 3 or 4. Battery etc.pdf Schematic, what I drew, of current set up since oct 14.pdf

Hi Everyone I've been trying to work out how much Solar and batteries I need, ideally to be able to use the panels for most electricity even through winter. I have lots of roof space and I budgeted for a lot of Solar so I'm ok with the finance side. I have done the usage calcs based on 'worst case' or maximum potential use, and overspeced the solar needs by 100% to account for winter. However, the Bimble solar calc seems to suggest I need a 1166 AH battery bank!? I assume this is because I need double the AH I use so as not to run the batteries to 0. That's a lot of batteries though! Am I understanding this correctly? What do other potentially power hungry users have? Thanks Caitlin

Just thinking about how best to bring my solar cabling into the boat - I've seen it going into mushroom vents but I'm doubtful I'll be able to run it inside the roof space without taking half the ceiling down - it's a few metres. So I looked for waterproof junction boxes and found some for solar panels - with diodes already inside. That set me a thinking regarding blocking diodes and whether I need them! So, before I order the cheapest little plastic box with a grommeted hole, perhaps I could ask what others have used and whether diodes are necessary! ta

Hi all. I purchased a 2nd boat which came with 4 solar panels (unconnected) , with the following specs (see image). Do you know what controller I should buy to connect them to 12V batteries ? Many Thanks.

Hey so I have recently got myself a boat which is a norman 27 fibreglass boat. I am currently pondering how I am going to install solar panels onto this boat, I have heard that the best way is to drill them on but I dont really want to do that as I have heard fibreglass is fragile. These panels are big (1.6M X 1M) so the only 2 places for them are the front cabin roof and the back cabin roof. So is there any alternative way to get the panels onto the boat roof, I was thinking maybe there is some super strong industrial glue or even some sort of metal wire rope that anchors it at 4 points. I have no clue how I am going to do this so open to any suggestions. Here is the panels I have bought: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282164412810 2X 250w Thanks Tara