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Cruiser_Boy

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  1. Hello everyone, I am close to buying all the parts for my solar system. Due to size constraints it will be a single panel 46V Voc type with MPPT controller. I will put an isolator switch and fuse in the PV feed to the MPPT and I wanted to route the MPPT to Batteries cable to the existing services isolator switch via a fused cable. Assuming the services to battery cables are up to it which I think they are. Now comes my problem. If I have an isolator on both feeds which I think is sensible for safety then it is possible to have both Battery and PV off and then someone could turn the PV on first. The MPPT manual says Battery should be connected first. Its a Victron but I haven't bought it yet. Is there an isolator switch which could be used that has say 3 positions which allows Battery ON / PV ON, Battery OFF / PV OFF and Battery ON PV OFF but not the 4th option? Or conversely is it safe to have a switch which allows either both ON or both OFF only? I guess this would allow some minimal time where the PV could be ON and Battery OFF as the switch contacts operate. Any thoughts ?
  2. Okay thanks for all the advice. I don't think she wants to do this regularly and as I said she is not a boater but wanted to try this out and end up with something she could use.
  3. A freind of mine, non-boater, has just asked me where she can get an old style watering can as seen on narrowboats either in base metal or plain paint that she can paint herself. She wants the 5/10 litre type. I think she is confusing this with the water jugs that you see on narrowboats as I don't remember seeing full size watering cans. Does anyone know where such a thing can be bought and what paint she can use ? Any alternatives ?
  4. I'm in the process of buying parts to add solar panels to my boat. The only place they can go is on two specially made brackets which form an arch over the pole / plank and hook. These will easily pull out parallel to the roof and therefore be accessible but they will no longer lift up directly. I just wondered if this is a problem for BSS certificate? I don't want to go to all the trouble of fitting the panels only to have it fail BSS in a couple of years. I can't see it being an issue the parts are not 'life critical' but thought I would ask first.
  5. Ok thank you everyone. Just out of interest how would I have found his details on the forum? The only member menu I can see is "Member Map" and he isn't in there, neither am I.
  6. Yes that's long behind me as well How do I contact him?
  7. Hi, I am looking to put solar panels on my boat. I'm in the Milton Keynes area for the next month or so and would like to find a decent solar fitter who could advise on the fitting of panels to my boat. My initial concern is what can be fitted if anything. The boat is quite small with not much room on the roof. Also routing of the wires and gizmos inside the boat. I want the wires routed properly and hidden as much as possible. Any recommendations?
  8. HI All, Thanks for the replies. I opened it up today and tweaked the 'empty' pot until the gauge read 0%. Filled the tank and a full tank read as 100% so probably the pot moved with vibration. It is close to the pump so must get some vibration every time the pump turns on. It's quite a coarse pot so if it goes again I will change it for a multi turn. On my last trip I was topping up at every opportunity and it was taking a very long time to fill from 50% - 60% so maybe it has been faulty for a few months and I only noticed recently when the tank was empty.
  9. I have an in line MSC products water level gauge. It looks like this:- http://mcsboatproducts.co.uk/ I have the analogue meter. I thought at first my tank outlet was blocked but it looks like the gauge is showing half full when the tank is empty. So either the sensor is faulty of the gauge. Does anyone know of a simple way of testing these items or have any experience of common problems ? It has worked well up until a few days ago.
  10. Hi, I won't go into all the history of why I need this but I have a damaged Adverc (Negative) and an alternator which I am pretty sure is wired for the opposite type. I have no details on the alternator make it is a refurbished grey painted unit with no markings apart from the terminals. There is a picture of the alternator attached. I don't want to get the Adverc fixed until I have the alternator sorted. They have offered me a new alternator but it does not have the correct multi ridge pully that my engine has so it would need more alteration etc. Does anyone know if it is easy to a) Check that the alternator has the incorrect set up i.e. regulator on non earth side of field brush. b) Re wire the alternator so that it will work with the other polarity Adverc. I'm guessing the answer is no but worth checking. In which case where could I pick up a good 12V 110 Ah ish alternator which is suitable for a Negative Adverc. Engine is a Beta 38.
  11. Starman, TheBiscuits and Peter X. Thank you for the constructive and helpful replies. I misunderstood the wording on the CRT website where they talked about if you need a license for 'any one of our canals'. Thanks for clearing that up :)
  12. Hi , I’m new to boating and hope to have a new boat by the end of September. Offer in place awaiting survey. It’s currently on the Trent and Mersey canal and I want to move it onto the Grand Union for mooring - Crick preferably. I intend to buy a gold license in January but until then I will buy a license for the GU only. Will this cover all arms of the GU or just some of it? The Leicester arm of the GU seems to swap between GU and the river Soar. Does the license cover the river as well? Also what’s the cheapest way to be licensed for the short trip down the T and M to get onto the GU?
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