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  • Boat Name
    Das Boot
  • Boat Location
    South West

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  1. Thanks all for the advice and help. No offence was taken, I am right at the beginning of my adventure when it comes to canal boats, so I'm bound to ask more basic questions. I did my 10m pleasure craft licence abroad a while ago, I think it's called 10m ICC in the UK (not that relevant to canal boating) and it took a couple days drive to get the boat to the marina its currently in, I was never told or it didn't come up regarding pulling the lever out. I am planning to go on a helmsman course before I get out on the water. And in the mean time do a lot more
  2. XAMK


  3. Not sure if you're being sarcastic but yes to your questions. I have one lever, middle is neutral and has little to no amount of revs, engaging the lever forward puts it in gear and therefore turns the propeller and produces more revs. Maybe I'm getting the names mixed up but by unhooking the wire I can put the throttle to full power, lever fully extended (increasing the revs) and the propeller won't turn.
  4. Thank you so much for clearing that up in an easy to follow way. I take it LiFePO4 don't behave in the same way, is this one of the reasons people are switching to them? Does it not churn up the bank? There isn't a downside of disengaging the gear wire is there?
  5. Yes that's what I meant, sorry learning a lot of new words. I've just gone through the manual and didn't find anything regarding a regulator in the alternator. I guess it should have one though as I bought the boat new earlier this year. Its a Canaline 52 on the off chance that you know from memory if it has one?
  6. No I didn't know this - thanks for clarifying. I assumed the 400A alternator would simply charge the batteries from 50% to 99% SoC about 2 and a bit times faster than the 175A. I guess this answers my question on whether to go larger alternator route or solar panels. I was told that chargers aren't a necessity and you save a bit of cash by going straight from alternator to battery, I take it this isn't case?
  7. Definitely don't think this is simple. Would go with 24v if I can get a bigger alternator than the current 12v 175A I have. Would stay with the 12v if I can't get anything bigger than 175A and add 12v solar input. Domestics can be either as am fitting things like nav lights and horn to existing 12v starter engine, and inside lights/plugs/fans/pumps can be either 12v or 24v.
  8. It's certainly not easy! I found this 370 Amp one in the states. https://www.ceniehoff.com/productdetail.asp_Q_catID_E_153_A_subCatID_E_281_A_productID_E_1515_A_skuID_E_1367 But admittedly that should belong on a truck, still does the same job, right? ? I guess maybe my question is more, what is the largest that is possible to fit, or that you know off?
  9. Hi there, I’m fairly new to boat building and am in the initial stages of fitting out my boat. I did have a look but couldn’t find anything on the following questions. I have a couple questions that I could really use an experienced boaters expertise on: I currently have a 55hp canalline engine onboard with the normal two alternators, the domestic is a 12v 175A alternator. My first question is: does anyone have experience with replacing it with a larger alternator? For example a 24v 400A alternator? If yes, how did it go? How did you mount
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