Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

RufusR

Member
  • Content Count

    399
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

41 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    The cut

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Tech Sales
  • Boat Location
    The cut

Recent Profile Visitors

1288 profile views
  1. We have the same gen as op and I hate to run it so it’s for back up only , answer is solar and lots of it so much in fact that it will carry you most of the year . Can be done similar price to honda 22eui gen . ,decent batteries and large good solar array and you will not need to run gen except in exceptional circumstance in dead of winter when few other s about. If still worried about those few times get wind ..
  2. These days so many boats don’t bother to slow down I am minded to start asking the few that do to speed up for continuity . The days of slowing for moored boats seem to have gone no idea where it came from but I have given up shouting or firing high powered water pistols and just bought more and bigger fenders and brace brace brace .
  3. Thats very good Alan for a 170w panel , I have just gone for the " you cant ever have enough solar " approach as living on off Grid linear Mooring . I have 1620 watts on the roof of my 60 foot narrow boat and its like being plugged into shoreline for most of the time . even will be heating my water ( for the Spring , summer and early Autumn ) once I install all the diversion kit in the next week or so .
  4. I would say 45w from 2 x 100w panels on a cloudy day is a good performance in Blighty , Output will depend on a lot of factors , Quality of panel , angle and direction of tilt , temperature etc etc but on a normal sunny date expect something around 50-60% of quote max output . My old array tilted to the sun hit 75% of max once fleetingly , My new array with new panels etc and a much better solar controller did hit close to 100% but in british climate around 50% is a good average on a normal non cloudy day .
  5. In that case you are correct I didnt see the spec sheet ( or didnt read it lol . Victrons 50 /100 Smart solar is a good MPPT at a reasonable price for this ( alot cheaper than the 150volt ones . You may get EPever a bit cheaper but having owned one the OP will be happier with the Victron unless on very tight budget . Its a shame Midnite dont do a controller between their 30A kid and 96A Classic as really they are Les Ballon de Chein when it comes to solar controllers
  6. If Vmax is 91V then you need to look at something bigger than 100v controller as on a cold sunny days which we can get in UK the Vmax can do above the Vmax and excess volts can kill your controller , 8 v is not really enough headroom IMO . look at 150v , Victron are good , I have a Midnite solar classic 150 which in my biased opinion is the best solar controller on the market its awesome but it is a 90amp plus controller so maybe a bit overkill here unless you want all the extra neat features such as smart load diversion , internet connectivity , end amps Absorption termination , skip days , HyperVOC for those cold sunny days i referenced above , the list goes on I love it . PeterBoat has this too I believe EPEver do OK budget ones which work OK ( bit slow and buggy , I had one before the midnite ,) they are cheap and cheerful but quite reliable . they certainly do the current and are current limited but not sure if they have 150v one
  7. I have a Combiner box for my 6 panels , each panel has a fuse then goes through feedback diodes then lightening surge suppressors then a large breaker . Came all assembled in a IP rated metal box with MC 4 connectors on the inputs all for £125.00 . couldnt have made it for that . Combines all six panels in Parallel which I wanted ( will handle up to 150 v so can have series strings and parallel those if required ) and gives all extra safety , In addition solar controller has ARC fault protection ( Only one that does ) and Ground fault protection included . I think powerful arrays need protecting no matter what the rules say as you have a lot of voltage and current running around your roof that you cant switch off easily if something goes wrong . Interesting seems the US have tougher rules on this than over here ( all the stuff above comes from US ) which is rare when it comes to safety things .
  8. Yes I agree you can however heat water from solar either a thermal panel or if you have a big solar array with power to spare you can get a solar controller that will divert spare power to a DC water heater via a SSR when the batteries are full , Outbacks and Midnite classics have Aux outputs for this purpose , I have a Midnite ( awesome piece of kit ) and though its early days should be able to heat water in summer , SPring and Autumn in varying amounts , Not in Winter though as dont think even with 1620 watts I will have enough spare so its back to Engine then ,
  9. Ah so you use a std Whale water pump ? or gulper ?
  10. Ok cool but where is container in relation to the loo does it have to be lower ie below the floor ? trying to figure out where to put it on our boat as we have a fitted unit behind the current Vetus which when the pump out gear is stripped out would provide space but then access to remove the container would be a challenge so trying to see how others do it . You say pumped in , is this a pump you have added as from I can see the loo comes with just a gravity outlet no pump Au Natural lol
  11. Hi Peter Sorry to Hijack a little but what do you do for a urine tank as I understand the separate does not come with one just an outlet ? We are looking at converting to one but not sure how we are going to deal with Urine .
  12. Blimey what size is you boat ? you would need a 70 foot 12 ft 6 widebeam to even have a chance of getting that much solar on plus would need to be wired to a min 24volts or better 48 volt so what is you system ? lots of expensive solar controllers etc . Look at the cost of kits in that range on Bimble , will probably put you off . I have 1620 watts on my 60 foot narrow boat that takes up 90% of the roof with some clever packaging . Think you need to rethink you leccy usage and be a little more realistic
  13. Careful I thought this , I have over panelled and have 6 x 270 w Perlight panels . I have a midnite classic for 96a and am testing one panel and In current light cloud with sunny intervals i am getting 250 watts very close to max and I think on perfect day next week it could produce more that the max output . My old panels would not have got near 50 % of rated output so conclusion is new modern high efficiency perc panels will even in uk hit or exceed max rates output . Make sure your solar controller has a current limit if you over panel or it could end in tears
  14. If you live aboard off grid and need every amp when it’s not high summer then tilting them into sun at the correct angle for the season will give you at least 30 % more power . Indeed my current old panels doubled their output when I stopped the denial and listened to my elders and betters on the cut . I was amazed and delighted . Do not believe the flat earthers ( panelers) that it makes no difference , they are plan wrong . Of of course you may just be looking for a little addition while cruising and not living aboard off grid on which case it probably doesn’t matter as much .
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.