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  1. This . I didnt want a cruiser when we were looking to buy our boat , I wanted a Semi-trad but mrs talked me into practicalities of Cruiser with pram cover and after 6 years living aboard with 5 winters and 1 large wet and muddy dog I would now never look back . You basically get an back porch for wiping down said pooch , hanging wet coats and storing muddy boots etc , Plus we have put extra storage boxes on the back with cushioned seats so it is an additional G and T spot in summer / Autumn with cover up or down . We have not got a too large cruiser stern so ideal . I know Live aboards with Trads who say the engine room is also not really that usable and is full of oil and paint cans etc . The Cruising the Cut guy has also come to the same conclusion if you watch him on You Tube . ( he has trade but would rather in hindsight have gone for Semi trad or cruiser with pram )
  2. Yes it will need anchoring properly to the roof and laying it flat when cruising would also be a challenge but hey those are the Engineering challenges that made Victorian Britain great .. LOL .. I love a challenge me . I am sure there would be a solution . Just think the tech is very promising . But as with all things new proof of pudding will be in the eating . And yes it is a little ways off still me thinks .
  3. I agree with a lot thats been said here , I love the idea of something that produces power when the sun dont shine esp in winter but cannot get over all the disadvantages . I am closely watching the development of Vortex bladeless technologies as this looks like it could be the long sought answer for narrow boats esp as it acutally likes disturbed air oft found at moorings with trees etc , works in low speeds and is very light and quiet . Obviously brand new tech so needs to be proven , but they say they should have a nominal 100-150w unit out by end of year .. Watch this space . https://vortexbladeless.com/es/desarrollo-tecnologia/
  4. this time of year 13.5v odd as solar kicks in as soon as its light , in Winter 12.8 ish Morning SOC on Midnite app via shunt is currently 92-96% depending what we have had running the evening .
  5. If you have a sizeable solar array and large controller then you need 25mm from solar controller to batteries. We used it from our 96 A midnite classic to the batteries as we have an oversized array so could in theory have 96A output . Interestingly midnite being American recommends 4 gauge wire which equates to 25mm as closest metric but actually it was a tad too big for the terminal blocks so we had to take some strands out to make it fit , imperial to metric not quite working it seems . Actually at weekend we did see almost 90 amps from the midnite 1200 watts from the array for a short time so glad we didn’t undersized the cable .
  6. We have the same gen as op and I hate to run it so it’s for back up only , answer is solar and lots of it so much in fact that it will carry you most of the year . Can be done similar price to honda 22eui gen . ,decent batteries and large good solar array and you will not need to run gen except in exceptional circumstance in dead of winter when few other s about. If still worried about those few times get wind ..
  7. These days so many boats don’t bother to slow down I am minded to start asking the few that do to speed up for continuity . The days of slowing for moored boats seem to have gone no idea where it came from but I have given up shouting or firing high powered water pistols and just bought more and bigger fenders and brace brace brace .
  8. Thats very good Alan for a 170w panel , I have just gone for the " you cant ever have enough solar " approach as living on off Grid linear Mooring . I have 1620 watts on the roof of my 60 foot narrow boat and its like being plugged into shoreline for most of the time . even will be heating my water ( for the Spring , summer and early Autumn ) once I install all the diversion kit in the next week or so .
  9. I would say 45w from 2 x 100w panels on a cloudy day is a good performance in Blighty , Output will depend on a lot of factors , Quality of panel , angle and direction of tilt , temperature etc etc but on a normal sunny date expect something around 50-60% of quote max output . My old array tilted to the sun hit 75% of max once fleetingly , My new array with new panels etc and a much better solar controller did hit close to 100% but in british climate around 50% is a good average on a normal non cloudy day .
  10. In that case you are correct I didnt see the spec sheet ( or didnt read it lol . Victrons 50 /100 Smart solar is a good MPPT at a reasonable price for this ( alot cheaper than the 150volt ones . You may get EPever a bit cheaper but having owned one the OP will be happier with the Victron unless on very tight budget . Its a shame Midnite dont do a controller between their 30A kid and 96A Classic as really they are Les Ballon de Chein when it comes to solar controllers
  11. If Vmax is 91V then you need to look at something bigger than 100v controller as on a cold sunny days which we can get in UK the Vmax can do above the Vmax and excess volts can kill your controller , 8 v is not really enough headroom IMO . look at 150v , Victron are good , I have a Midnite solar classic 150 which in my biased opinion is the best solar controller on the market its awesome but it is a 90amp plus controller so maybe a bit overkill here unless you want all the extra neat features such as smart load diversion , internet connectivity , end amps Absorption termination , skip days , HyperVOC for those cold sunny days i referenced above , the list goes on I love it . PeterBoat has this too I believe EPEver do OK budget ones which work OK ( bit slow and buggy , I had one before the midnite ,) they are cheap and cheerful but quite reliable . they certainly do the current and are current limited but not sure if they have 150v one
  12. I have a Combiner box for my 6 panels , each panel has a fuse then goes through feedback diodes then lightening surge suppressors then a large breaker . Came all assembled in a IP rated metal box with MC 4 connectors on the inputs all for £125.00 . couldnt have made it for that . Combines all six panels in Parallel which I wanted ( will handle up to 150 v so can have series strings and parallel those if required ) and gives all extra safety , In addition solar controller has ARC fault protection ( Only one that does ) and Ground fault protection included . I think powerful arrays need protecting no matter what the rules say as you have a lot of voltage and current running around your roof that you cant switch off easily if something goes wrong . Interesting seems the US have tougher rules on this than over here ( all the stuff above comes from US ) which is rare when it comes to safety things .
  13. Yes I agree you can however heat water from solar either a thermal panel or if you have a big solar array with power to spare you can get a solar controller that will divert spare power to a DC water heater via a SSR when the batteries are full , Outbacks and Midnite classics have Aux outputs for this purpose , I have a Midnite ( awesome piece of kit ) and though its early days should be able to heat water in summer , SPring and Autumn in varying amounts , Not in Winter though as dont think even with 1620 watts I will have enough spare so its back to Engine then ,
  14. Ah so you use a std Whale water pump ? or gulper ?
  15. Ok cool but where is container in relation to the loo does it have to be lower ie below the floor ? trying to figure out where to put it on our boat as we have a fitted unit behind the current Vetus which when the pump out gear is stripped out would provide space but then access to remove the container would be a challenge so trying to see how others do it . You say pumped in , is this a pump you have added as from I can see the loo comes with just a gravity outlet no pump Au Natural lol
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