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Karl

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  1. Hi all, I have a relatively new Victron 3000 (3kw) inverter charger and live aboard during the winter on mains hook up. During the summer I use the engine to charge batteries when not cruising. I also have two small solar panels but when not cruising start the engine for a couple of hours daily to charge batteries. I am now considering purchasing a Honda EU22i generator as I have seen these used on the cut. My question is will this be powerful enough and match my inverter. I have 4 110 amp lead acid batteries to charge. I want to plug it straight into the mains hook up outlet which I have seen others do with this inverter. reason being it is quieter and cheaper to run, will not add hours to my engine and if I had an inverter it is good for emergency should I have engine or charging problems. Any advise or suggestions would be good. many thanks.
  2. I have a problem where on the marina my boat is moored the rear of the boats base plate only sits about an inch below the water. As such all the oil,diesel etc sits on the edge of the baseplate and takes off the blacking. Someone has said paint Hammerstein smooth on the edge and then black over it whilst it is still tacky. Will this work and protect the metal longer or will it react ? I am going to be using SML paints Ballastic black. I used international last time but after a year or so it started to wear off the waterline. Apparently SML. A lot better but just want to know about theHammerite . Many thanks.
  3. Sorry, an inch deep not wide. The gap between the collar and the flu is probably half an inch all the way round. Maybe slightly less but just a guess. I have tried 12 mm fire rope but that doesn’t fill the gap so I have to pack as much in as I can and double it up. It’s a 4.5 inch flu pipe and I suspect a 5 inch collar. The sealant is black silicone fire sealant like they use on sealing flu pipes etc and heat resistant to over 800 degrees. Really helpful !
  4. Hi all. I’ve had this problem before and thought I had cured it after taking advice form all sorts of places. The problem is when we have our stove on with coal or logs but mainly coal we get a run inside the boat that runs down the outside of the flu and takes the paint off the top of the stove it’s so hot. Apparently it’s condensation spilling over the collar and back down into the seal between the collar and the flu.it bloody stinks aswell and makes us feel sick. Last time I took the flu out of the boat. Cleaned all the surfaces and used 2 inch wide fire bandage so it was snug enough to just push the flu down into the boat. Made sure non of the bandage got snagged then put fire sealant on top. Then used some fire rope on top of that the covered that with about an inch of the same black fire sealant. Three weeks later and it’s started all over again. There are no cracks in the cast or the flu. I just can’t work out how after a few weeks the hot condensation and tar from the coal eventually get through. So much so that when I go to remove the fire sealant to replace it there is not much effort required to get the old stuff out. I’ve got the surfaces as clean as I can and it still doesn’t work. What am I doing wrong ? Would I just be better taking everything out and replace the whole joint with fire cement or is that the wrong thing to do ? It’s driving me mad. This will be the fourth attempt ! Thanks all.
  5. Sounds a bit dangerous to me that ! Will try and pull over to one side. Tried it with centre rope around a tree then wound the rope but couldn’t quite get enough out of water. Got it over about to inches but needed another couple. Thought the rope was going to snap so gave up.
  6. I spilt diesel once when filling and on another occasion when filling up at a marina the attendant overfilled and it gushed out all over the place. Of course it hangs around the back of the boat. As the boat is on a marina most of the time you get all the stuff in the water from all the other boats. The two pack was about 7 years old anyway from what we understand so I used International intertuf and gave it several good coats after it was pressure washed. My only concern Is the rear of the boat around the water line and where the base plate joins the hull. If I could sort that out the rest of the boat appears fine.
  7. Hi all once again. Since joining this forum I have found the information invaluable and thank everyone who have advised me so far. i am now in a position who I blacked the hull after having it pressure washes 10 months ago and found it coming off around the stern. Probably because I’ve spilt diesel a couple of times when filling up. I’ve tried to tie the boat to a tree on the cut and use a Spanish winch effect but without success as I can’t quite get it over enough. So I’m now thinking of two pack. The local marina want £3500 which is too expensive for me on a 62 ft boat. It was previously two packed before I blacked it so why does it need to go back to bare metal ? Surely just remove the blacking I’ve put on ? Anyway, can anyone advise on the cheapest marina in Cheshire are that could do a good two pack at a reasonable price, or help advise how I can tip this boat over about three inches. Many thanks.
  8. So after removing my Flu because it was leaking I’ve replaced all the fire seal at the collar and even raised the stove slightly as the flu was sitting level with the top of the casing on the roof just and all the condensation was then going down the outside of the flu into the boat. Anyway my next issue is this. I have purchased a double skin chimney as a posed to the single skin one fitted before. But is the inner skin of the chimney supposed to go slightly in side the flu when fitted or just butt up to it. It looks like the inner skin of the xhimney and the flu are the same diameter so they won’t join together. When I fit 5he chimney to the roof I can feel the inner skin touch the flu but won’t go in or over it. Maybe it just needs adjusting. Not sure if this is right ! kind regards.
  9. Hi All. I had a problem recently were i was getting condensation like oil or tar running down the outside of the flue pipe in the boat and dripping onto the top of the stove and making a horrible burning smell. I thought id fixed it by re sealing in from the top but it started again last night. Now I've gone a step further and dug out the seal between the flue and the collar on the roof. What a messy job ! Anyway I Have taken the flue pipe out and cleaned it all ready to put back but there is a quarter inch gap all round the top of the flue pipe to join the Collar on the roof. Some people have said use an exhaust bandage, some say a fire rope seal and some say both with a fire sealant top and bottom. As i don't know what size thickness rope to use anyway is an exhaust bandage better. I want to get this done right and not to lek again. Advice please !
  10. Thanks for all the info. We have now found the pump is indeed leaking and replaced for a new one of the same but an interesting thing is when I released one of the water connections from the pump the was a lot of water pressure, the one that goes into the accumulator ! I’ve connected it all up o the new pump and is a lot quieter and no leaks. Only problem now is a slight delay before we get a constant flow when we’d turn tap on (a couple of seconds ) and then we get a constant flo. I don’t know wether I am supposed to put air back into accumulator. I have a hand pump with a gauge but when I connect it to the accumulator I can’t get any air into it. It appears rock solid. I also have no idea how much air to put in as don’t know what make the accumulator is. I’m in a right pickle but at least I’ve got a nice quiet water pump which I didn’t have before . Any ideas anyone ?
  11. I have actually found a slight leak from where the body of the pump joins together and will have to replace tomorrow. Would this have anything to do with it. The pump is working but does sound a little different than normal. I suspect the pump is around 11 years old, the same age as the boat.
  12. Sorry, not webasto, Jabasco. Which is connected to cold fresh water tank !
  13. I found a leek on one of the O rings on the Jabasco water pump and found when releasing one of the connections on the pump a rush of pressurised water leading to the Webasto accumulator. The leaking pump is fixed with new O rings but now when we turn any tap on etc there is a slight trickle of water and a few seconds delay before pump kicks in. Is this because we have lost air in the Webasto accumulator ? I have tried to add air via the valve with a foot pump but it appears already full of air as I can get any pressure on foot pump unless I did it with great force which I don’t want to do. If I turn tap on and depress foot pump the pressure is released through the foot pump. Am I doing something wrong ?
  14. The other day I swept the chimney as I’ve done several times over the years but I’ve also changed the coal and now I’ve got tar running down the side of the roof and even coming down the chimney into the boat. I can see it running down the outside of the chimney in the boat and when it lands on the top of the stove it stinks and has even taken the paint off the top of the stove. I have gone back to the old coal and even though the tar is still coming through it is less. If I burn logs it stops but is more exepensive as I buy kiln dried logs. Why has this started doing this ? Is it just because I changed coal and has more tar in it ? Does it just need burning off in the chimney ?
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