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Afternoon all, I have a Beta 43 with what I believe to be a 95 Amp domestic alternator and a Beta controller. A few days ago, I started the engine to allow it to warm through while I de-moored and there was an occasional faint warning bleep and the domestic light on the panel was flickering. Once I unplugged the shoreline, all went back to normal no light flickering, no beeping so off we go with the intention to investigate later. As we were cruising, the faint beeping and flickering light re-appeared occasionally. With nowhere to pull over we continued and I assumed that It was the alternator failing and would need replacing. Once moored up, I investigated to find that the engine loom was burnt out on a couple of wires on the domestic side right back to the panel, the damage being so bad that I have just had to replace the full engine loom right back to the panel! I was not able to 100% establish the cause, presuming that the loom had chaffed against something below the fuel filter as this appeared to be the source. (The new loom does not have the facility to connect to the heater plug relay, Beta say this is fine as we only have a 3 meter harness from the panel and all appears to be fine) Since replacing the loom, all is fine, no warnings and both alternators are charging, however, when I start the engine with the shoreline plugged in (to provide us with hot water) The domestic alternator light is flashing in a consistent manner along with the warning beep. This never happened before the incident with the loom. I have spoken with Beat but they are not able to offer an explanation. Has anyone come across this before? Any thoughts? Is it possible that the damaged loom has damaged something in the domestic alternator? Hopping that all of this makes some kind of sense! TIA Keith.

My Beta 43 domestic alternator has been a bit flakey on occasion recently. I've seen it being slow to excite on start up but eventually kicking in, maybe as much as a few minutes into running. It also gave me a little over 15v the other day, and has a couple of times also shown about half the Amps I'd expect after night in on batteries - I often see a bit above or below 100 amps on start up, but I'm talking about 50 here. She's been fine the last couple of days, but they aren't self healing, are they! The engine is a 2008 Beta 43, and the alternator is, like everything else of course, painted green so I can't see any identifying marks. Beta themselves have been very helpful and tell me its an Iskra 14V 150A alternator IA1058 11.203.124 which they no longer use, but they can source one with a 2 month lead time. I'm suspecting the regulator/brushes, but Googling til my fingers bleed hasn't turned up either the parts or any part numbers I can take further. I suspect the parts might be common to alternators under other manufacturers names, or perhaps there's an alternative alternator which would be compatible. Beta tell me the newer Iskra 175a they use is a different fit and form, and requires changes to the loom, etc, so that's not an economical way forward. It's a pretty common fit - has anyone been down this road before or is able to cast any light? Thanks for reading.

Hi All Looking to install a Cyrix-ct-230A Battery Combiner (VSR) My question is .... :- I have seen many installs using just the one Alternator and Two battery banks, but non with two (I have one 70A Alternator for Starter Battery and another 70A for domestic bank) So is it possible at all. Just thinking of using my spare power from starter alernator to help keep domestics topped up in winter months :-) Thank you Andy

Hello again Canal World, I've been on my boat for a while now and I'm slowly getting to understand all it's quirks. One I wasn't happy with was a certain vibration when the engine ran in an rmp range. Upon investigation it looks like I have a wobbly alternator, which is wobbling the whole engine mounting! I've had issues with the mounting, and it seems like this is the root cause. Engine is a late 90s Beta 43, and I think it's the starter alternator. I recorded it in action which really shows the wobble: Any suggestions on how to alleviate this? Alternator too tight, too loose, just bad design? Cheers, David

Hi all, My Leece Neville alternator is kicking out >15.7 - 17 volts on anything but tick over. I have brand-new starter battery and leisure batteries. The alternator has a voltage adjustment screw on the regulator. I have tried adjusting this and it seems to be completely randomly adjusting the voltage - turn clockwise it rises and then suddenly drops similarly anti clockwise. It looks like the previous owner has already played around with it. The lowest I can get it is around 14.88, which I am guessing from reading up on it is still too high. the batteries are full having cruised for 8 hrs yesterday, solar panels etc... the voltage didn't drop all day. The Cyrix ct relay has hopefully protected the leisure batteries as it only cuts in beneath 15.7 volts. given I think the voltage regulator screw isn't working very well I was thinking about replacing the regulator - anyone know a good place to buy one, struggling to find anything on line in the U.K? It's an 8rg2043 ANy one had any similar experiences Or advice or thoughts? will take into a auto electrical place if this isn't a diy job Cheers tom

Hello!, I've been helping my friend install a new alternator onto his Isuzu engine. We are totally stumped on how to get this thing wired in. It is installed on the engine and the belt has been tensioned, however when we start the engine and rev it a bit the voltage on the batteries do not increase. I'm clueless about alternators and my friend has tried wiring it up as follows: + bolt terminal ----> +ve terminal on first leisure battery W bolt terminal ----> -ve terminal on first leisure battery AUX ----> he found a wire coming from the engine with a female spade connector which appears to connect to this, he tried with it connected and without it connected This is surely looking very newbie to you guys right now, but we are out of ideas and would really really appreciate any help or advice as he has had no power since he bought the boat. Cheers in advance for any and all help!

Can anyone identify this alternator attached to my 1989 XD3P 2.5 l engine? It needs replacing with any alternator that will fit the space/brackets

Hi there, I’m fairly new to boat building and am in the initial stages of fitting out my boat. I did have a look but couldn’t find anything on the following questions. I have a couple questions that I could really use an experienced boaters expertise on: I currently have a 55hp canalline engine onboard with the normal two alternators, the domestic is a 12v 175A alternator. My first question is: does anyone have experience with replacing it with a larger alternator? For example a 24v 400A alternator? If yes, how did it go? How did you mount it? I appreciate running your engine is not pleasant for boating neighbours and know about the restrictions in time when running it. In order to prevent the alternator from running at idle and not pulling through that many amps, is there anything stopping me disengaging the gear wire on the engine and throttling a little bit? At the moment the main thing I’m trying to work out is if I should fit a bigger alternator and run the engine for 45mins a day or go with solar and run the risk of it getting stolen in London. I’m sure I will have loads more questions in the future but to start with thanks for your help with these two.

Hi, I won't go into all the history of why I need this but I have a damaged Adverc (Negative) and an alternator which I am pretty sure is wired for the opposite type. I have no details on the alternator make it is a refurbished grey painted unit with no markings apart from the terminals. There is a picture of the alternator attached. I don't want to get the Adverc fixed until I have the alternator sorted. They have offered me a new alternator but it does not have the correct multi ridge pully that my engine has so it would need more alteration etc. Does anyone know if it is easy to a) Check that the alternator has the incorrect set up i.e. regulator on non earth side of field brush. b) Re wire the alternator so that it will work with the other polarity Adverc. I'm guessing the answer is no but worth checking. In which case where could I pick up a good 12V 110 Ah ish alternator which is suitable for a Negative Adverc. Engine is a Beta 38.

I have a mains fridge setup with a 1600VA inverter and it works fine. As you would expect when the engine is running and the compressor kicks in, the alternator pulls the revs down. This is not really a problem but I do wonder why the alternator voltage regulator has to be set so sensitive given that the inrush required to start the compressor only lasts for <500ms. I was wondering if it was possible to install a remote voltage regulator and then add some sort of passive filter in the voltage sense to effectivly slow the regulator response, thus avoiding the engine rev dip and all the assoociated stress on belts etc.. Ant thoughts?

Could somebody tell me what this alternator is please? I know the output is a staggering 30 A or so but it only charges the start battery which is rarely used as I prefer to hand start. Thanks N

We've had our n/boat for just over a year and I've never had a lot of confidence in the original Barrus Shire 10 year old instrument panel which had a suspect ignition switch (lose, floopy key slot) and a tacho that never moved. So I replaced it with the latest version which I rather naively thought would be a straight swap - Same size, same block connecter etc. There was however some wiring mods needed one of which was due to now having individual battery/alternator lights for both the starter battery and the leisure batteries. I explained this to Barrus as they originally told me it would simple swap and they, all credit to them, sent a guy out to the marina within 48 hours to modify the block connector etc to get things connected. However he identified that the starter battery wasn't charging due to a faulty alternator which was the reason for the tacho problem and the battery/alternator light staying on. So it was frustrating that having fitted the newly refurbished alternator, both the above problems still continued. However following a suggestion from another marina colleague, I disconnected the LED bulb and holder from the back of the panel and reconnected to a traditional 12 volt/2w bulb and holder. On starting up....hey presto the light went out and the tacho needle sprung into life!. So....whilst some might say - well that's the problem sorted....I am puzzled by such things? Comments welcome but please bear in mind those of you who posses a far greater understanding of electrical matters that my knowledge is limited and I am merely keen to know whether by simply changing the bulb from an LED really has solved the problem and why the starter battery alternator would work with the LED? Thanks in advance

I have recently been given a Victron battery monitor BMV600 and am looking to add it to the boat. The installation of the shunt seems simple enough if you have one battery but with a bank of three domestic batteries there are options available and I am concerned to choose the best one. Looking at the current wiring of the domestic batteries it doesn't seem that the batteries are currently wired in the best configuration (though I'm not sure about that). I'm aware of the Smartgauge site and Option 2 where the positive and negative 'take-offs' should be diagonally opposite one another and that seems to be what I have presently (1st image) Intuition suggests that the alternator connections ought to be made in a similar sort of way but that is not presently the case; they being connected to the middle battery of the three. I'm thinking that the shunt should be added with some minor changes (as shown in image 2) but am not at all sure about this. I've looked at info about alternators/charging/etc on this and other sites but have not found any info that gives me the confidence to proceed with this change. Any comments would be most welcome. There are two alternators on the Isuzu engine which appear to charge the starter and domestic batteries separately. Thanks in anticipation of some helpful advice

I'm sure everyone remembers my poor charging regime and the lengthy thread that ensued. I'm still using my set of somewhat reduced capacity 4x110ah batteries - a couple hours engine running in the morning, a couple in the evening, and then switch off the 240v (including fridge) at night. This gives me enough laptop time in the evening, led lights and various pumps etc. So, for now carrying on quite happily - but I have noticed a new phenomenon creeping in lately. Today for example: I ran the engine for an hour or so when I got up (with 240v back on as normal). I then cruised for 3 1/2 hrs. A couple hours later, and my batteries are already back down to 12.3v so I have fired up the engine again. What I am saying is this - it would appear that the leisure batteries are not getting much (or any?) charge when I'm cruising. I can't think what this could be but I'm sure someone will enlighten me - be gentle! Just to re iterate - I know the batteries have reduced capacity, but a couple hours charging off the engine normally sees them up to say 12.8v which lasts all day or all evening. Even on longer cruises, they don't seem to get as much charge as when the engine is just running in neutral. I have two alternators, 50a for engine, 175 for leisure.

I'm after a twin 2 1/2 inch O/D pulley to fit a CAV taper shaft alternator. I've searched the interweb without success. I think I know the answer but anyone know where or if pulleys can be purchased for CAV alternators.

we have 2x 230ahc 12v Haze gel maintence free batteries, and a NASA BM-1 battery/charging monitor (which i love!). Before i start the engine, the BM1 reads: 13.5V Charging 2.4a (from Solar - inverter off, no 12v load) 88%C Time to Charge 25hr. 731 Int Ahr. I start the engine and.... Between 15.2 and 15.4V Charging between 1.2 and 4.2a Time to Charge between 9.3hr and 77hr. 732 Int Ahr Is this voltage too high?? ALSO the D Battery warning light is flashing about once per second with an accompanying chirrup and a "hunting" of the engine revs - this at about 1200 rpm. Nothing above changes at 1400 rpm and a good engine rev makes no odds. At tickover the warning light is solidly on. The engine is a Beta38 with a 100A alternator.. The Label says : LSKRA 14V 100A. (AAK5535) We both have a week off next week so i'm thinking of getting someone to look at it, BUT.. Am i likely to "fry" the batts at 15.4v if i take a few hours to chug from the bottom-ish of the Ashby to (say) Springwood Haven? (EEK! ) Any one else know any marine sparks up this way ? Currently @ Trinity Marina but supposed to be moving to our new mooring between bridges 4-5 on the Ashby on Saturday (soooooooo happy about this!! )

Hi there new to the community so I hope it's alright to create a new thread. The narrowboat I'm currently looking to purchase is set up with an alternator, 3 new 12v batteries, no inverter, mains cabling throughout. There is also a generator on board. I'm sorry I can't provide specifics at this point, but even general advice much appreciated. If I continue with the purchase, I'm intending on putting on 4 Renogy 100 Watts 12v Monocrystalline Solar panels and doing my best to use the engine for power as minimally as possible (going into winter I realise that the solar is not going to give much power). The current owner will also be putting on a new 12v Fridge if I go ahead with the purchase. The appliances I intend on running would be a toaster, iron, TV, record player, iMac (I already own this and not looking to replace it), Laptop charger, Mobile charger. I'll be replacing all the current lighting with LED. There is currently a Washing Machine on board but the owner says its best to remove it as its on the mains (makes sense, although I would consider keeping it if anyone could provide a realistic solution). Stove and oven will be gas, have yet to decide on a water heating system. The current gas boiler is defunct. Currently considering a new gas boiler or a back boiler for the burner (no burner currently on board looking to purchase) to fuel hot water (taps, shower) and heating (there are radiators throughout but I'm not sure if they would be necessary once I purchase the burner - she's 63'. To be clear I will not be mooring up and 'plugging in', so everything needs to be off grid power. My knowledge is limited so being completely open, I apologise if my questions appear naive any support appreciated: Is it better to consider investing in a good inverter, or should I look at transformers on an appliance by appliance basis? If primary usage was 12v, would installing an inverter affect functionality or can you run both 230v and 12v with an inverter? I'm not particularly keen to keep the generator but would anyone advise that I do and why? Instead of an inverter or transformers would anyone's opinion be that I simply run the engine (with alternator) when using non-12v appliances, and why? I want to reduce emissions and costs from over using the engine unnecessarily wherever possible. Will the current 'all mains' wiring cause any problems with purchasing 12v appliances e.g. the fridge. If I wanted to consider keeping the washing machine what would you recommend having in place? Thank you for your advice.

I'm not an electrician so need help. Isuzu 35 engine with standard wiring and engine control panel. Problem:- Control panel warning buzzer is sounding, not continuous but with frequency increasing with engine revs, and engine alternator warning light is similarly showing. On board electrical panel indicates engine alternator is pushing +14.4V and charging amperage is satisfactory (as is auxiliary alternator), both engine and auxiliary batteries charge fully no problem. Both alternators bench checked OK so, looking at the Isuzu wiring diagrams I see 3 diodes at warning buzzer and thought I'd check them. NO JOY! Can't find diodes in panel wiring at all but do find 2 resisters (CGS SBCHE4 47R J PW LA) which according to the diagrams ought not be there. Shall be grateful if someone will tell me what's going on as the sound from the warning buzzer is driving me crackers and I don't really want to disconnect it as it serves as warning for oil pressure and water temperature as well as engine and auxiliary electrics.

Here is a copy of what I sent to Adverc yesterday. They are enjoying their weekend, I suppose, so I thought that I would ask the opinions of the forum What do the cognoscenti reckon? Nick

The regulator on my alternator is set to 13.8V. When I end a cruise and go on shore power it takes hours before the battery is fully charged. Would it be a good idea to use the 14.5V setting or would this cause damage to the batteries when cruising for eight hours a day? Would a battery controller be worth fitting? Is Adverc still the best choice?

Hi there, I've got one of these (see pic below), but want to change it for something that can take more solar panels and is a bit more modern. We use it with a 60A alternator, and 1x 100w solar panel (although I think this regulator can only take up to 60w solar. We don't have a wind turbine. It only seems to produce a max of 14.1v when the engine's on (even after hours of cruising) and recently has been hitting 15.1v through the solar panel - which seems a bit high?! I'd like to replace it with a charger suitable for the alternator, and maybe solar as well. Do I need to get a separate charger for the alternator, then an MPPT charger for the solar panel (I also want to add either one or two 175w solar panel to make 275w or 375w in total). We have 3x 110ah leisure batteries and a starter battery, and a Sterling 1600W pure sine wave inverter that is yet to be hooked up.. Any advice, brands, models to watch out for etc, most welcome! Cheers, Alistair

We have a Beta 43 engine with twin alternators. The domestic 150A alternator charges four domestic AGM batteries which are now just over 2 years old. The boat and the alternator are nearly 9 years old. Normally the domestic alternator charges at a voltage ranging from 13.8 to 14.5 volts. On a recent trip it was charging at 14.8 to 15.2 volts. The batteries were not hot after several hours at this charging rate. I have no way of measuring the current at which it was charging. Should I be worried about this and what might be the reason? We have no separate regulator between the alternator and the batteries. We do have a solar panel (100W) charging the same four batteries through a regulator. The solar installation is also about 2 years old. Any ideas?

My Travel Power 220 v AV 17A alternator keeps failing. If started from cold it will run (i.e. produce an indicated 220 v) for about 15-20 minutes, this regardless of whether it is totally without load or with a moderate (1 to 2 kW) load. Then the voltage fluctuates for a minute or so before dropping to zero. The green light is (usually, but not always) on when the voltage is at 220, off when not; the red light is never seen. If it is switched on when the engine is hot (so the alternator has been turning but not generating power for several hours) it lasts considerably less time - only 2 to 3 minutes. It until is almost 12 years old, and has been used mostly on a very light load, with very occasional brief periods of moderate or high load. The engine has recorded a little over 8,000 hours. The fan within the power box runs while it is producing voltage, but is stopped when it is not. The alternator drive belt is in good condition and correctly tensioned and the alternator definitely continues to turn when it has failed to produce power. Can anyone give me a clue of where to go from here? Many thanks all. Rob H

Hello, and it is customery to apologise for ones daftness in these situations, so uhh, sorry about that! But as the darkness and coldness approaches...I could do with some advice Here is the rub 1. Batteries no longer receive charge when engine runs. 2. Batteries do not hold charge adequately.(drops to 10v at night) About my set up. I have 3 80 watt solar panels and mppt controller I have 40 amp alternator I have sterling 4 step alternator regulator I have 2 little black boxes one of them has relay written on it The battery light no longer dims when engine runs Need to fix, spending as little money as pos. What do ya reckon? Cheers Martin

Excuse the idiot question, but: My boat has a single alternator running of a Lister SR2 There is an indication light on the control panel that indicates when the alt is charging. When lit green its not charging, increase the revs, it goes out. I've had the boat six months, when I first got it, it would only charge at high revs and then I'd ease the revs and it would still charge, but stop charging at idle. AT cruising speed my ancient ampmeter would show about 10 amps. Then it stopped charging at any rev speed. I tightened the belt, it started charging again as it was. I thought the belt tension was a bit much, ie only perhaps 5 mm on the longest length. It's now stopped charging at any rev speed, the belt is already as tight as it can get, the belt is not slipping and the alternator is turning with no noise. What I haven't done: Taken a volt reading off the alternator itself. Found out what the alternator type is. Does this sound like the alternator is knackered? Is it worth taking it to a car electrical place or simply get a replacement? Incidentally I have very low electrical requirements, ie no fridge, TV, etc. and an 8o w solar panel that keeps the batteries at about 12.9v (so far) Thanks in advance for any help AF