Cas446

The Webasto diagnostic software displays the under and over voltage inhibit and they are 9v and 16v so I can't see this being a problem unless you have utterly knackered batteries. What you say may well apply to Thermo Top C of which I have no knowledge but this is Thermo Top V and the two units I have work fine. The one on the boat for 30 minute boosts, the one I use at home with the kids paddling pool rus for 250 ish minutes then stops as it has an in built maximum run timer. However I restart it and away it goes again. You may be right but this is not my experience with TTV from Jaguars. There is a guy on ebay who has made a pcb converting the W-bus to on/off. This is what I use with the paddling pool unit so it can be started with a light switch.

The Evo 5 is a variable output of the Thermo Top V which has been fitted to many cars for many years. If you have an undersized radiator output in comparison to the heater output then the evo 5 may be better as it can power down without cycling. Although I have no idea what it's like in practice. If you are a confident diy'er then you could fit a Thermo Top V from a Jaguar (ebay ~£40) webasto fuel pump from a Land Rover Disco 3 (ebay ~£30) Mikuni 22mm marine exhaust from the Mikuni website, webasto 1533 timer and a seperate circulating pump. The 1533 timer starts the heater via W-bus but also has an on/off output which you can drive a delayed drop off relay to run the circulation pump. Delayed off to allow for webasto cool down cycle. If you buy a TTV off eBay buy one with 20cm of loom to save buying any plugs. If you need plugs go to the Disco3 forum shop as they are very resonably priced. A separate circulation pump is useful so you can combine the system with a heat exchanger on the engine skin tank or calorifier circuit so you can use the waste heat from the engine when underway. You can still use the TTV to heat the calorifier by using a motorised valve which can be operated by the webasto itself as it helpfully has an output that turns on when it has heated the water to >40 deg. (Draw a diagram and you will see the issue) Others may warn that Webastos of eBay don't work. That's not my experience I have this set up and another one to heat the kids paddling pool!. TTV from Jaguars have 9v -16v operating range. Avoid TTV from Land Rover and VW as they have on board pump control - better to have separate more powerful pump. The default plug on TTV has outputs for fuel pump and car can-bus but you can move can-bus pins to W-bus and >40 deg output. The Disco 3 forum is mine of information on this. A few terminations and you are away. The rest of the fuel system bits can be bought from Mikuni website and follow BSS guidelines. Job done. Great fun enjoy. Ah and look on ebay for the heat exchangers supplied from Poland - great quality and 1/4 of the price you have linked to above.

Nope, but the western K&A is a dump, I feel sorry for all the hire boaters. Lovely place to live, dreadful dump of a canal I think crt have given up with all the CMers, the low point a few months back was a helpful sign warning walkers to avoid straying off the towpath due to human waste in the bushes - I boat in the midlands. What is also sad is people around here think all canals are like this which is very sad.

Went for my lunchtime walk today and i came across a sinking boat. I helped with a few pumps and pleased to say it was recovered. Anyway, it looked like the boat was aground and the water level dropped so that the bilge outlet went under water, the engine compartment filled up pulling the boat over until the kitchen sink then overtopped and filled the cabin. There are a few issues here with low hull oulets and no auto bilge setup, but the boat sunk due to water through the bilge hose. Does anyone have a non return valve fitted to prevent this?

Yup. Came and took a look the same day. Said they would have to use contractors as too big for them to handle. Following morning all cleared.

All clear

Tree down between bridges 52 and 53 by the spill weir. Crt contractors turning up tomorrow.

Just made our way through after years of being put off by the height gauges. Touched both rails simultaneous at one point. 5ft rail to rail and 5ft 4" draft at the bow. As other have said plenty of room in the centre, it's all about the tumblehome. Engine off and handed it through.

I have this exact setup, over the years i had increased the idle revs to avoid the chattering. I changed the drive plate to a soft 22AM60 from the original. It helped dramatically and the idle speed could be reduced to an indicated 900rpm in gear with no chattering. It was a relatively straight forward job to change, following the great advice given on other threads.

Past them filming on the Wilmcote flight on the South Stratford yesterday evening. Said hello to John Prescott and Anita Harris.

I installed one in this configuration for my dad. Adding a pressure reducer to the mains cold helped maintain hot water for longer. With full mains pressure on the cold the thermo mixer was not able to maintain the shower temp when the hot water started to cool with use. I suspect this had a lot to do with this particular mixer, but worth considering if you have problems.

You can hear it, I would not say it is silent. Although I also have two installed under the bath at home for a shower and they are quieter. It's a lot to do with the installation.

I use one of these https://www.showerpowerbooster.co.uk No problem using it on 12-16v. A little pricey but a quality pump, obviously you just need the basic on/off version. Alternativly get a VW auxiliary circulation pump they are designed to work with main engine water pump hence good for thermosyphon systems. The ones that are used with Thermo Top V.

Not needed, just set the surecal thermostatic valve to ideal shower temperature and then have basic mixer taps in the shower and then you only have to use the hot tap when in the shower. Thermostatic shower valves also reduce flow so by not having one you will save money and have a more powerful shower.

I have a mains fridge setup with a 1600VA inverter and it works fine. As you would expect when the engine is running and the compressor kicks in, the alternator pulls the revs down. This is not really a problem but I do wonder why the alternator voltage regulator has to be set so sensitive given that the inrush required to start the compressor only lasts for <500ms. I was wondering if it was possible to install a remote voltage regulator and then add some sort of passive filter in the voltage sense to effectivly slow the regulator response, thus avoiding the engine rev dip and all the assoociated stress on belts etc.. Ant thoughts?