Cas446

Can those in the know summarise what content should be included to ensure an objection is effective as possible. Or is it just a case of summarising the Uttoxeter canal trust mail?

Responsible, two guys making a living. The only canal boating vlog that doesn't make me cringe, enjoy watching them.

Drain the water down open up the mushroom vents to maximum, arrange all the soft furnishings so that that have minimal horizontal flat surfaces, open all the cupboard doors. No heating, just ventilate, if the inside environment is closely maching the outside then you won't have any issues. You either box in, dehumidify and heat, or ventilate and do nowt, the latter has worked for me for the last 8 years. It's a choice.

The webasto pump will be fine. Install a valve on at least one side of the Kuranda and use them to balance the system as per normal radiators. Once installed you will have to adjust the installed radiators to get everything to heat up in a balanced way. However if you want to use the Kuranda for 'fast' or 'localised' heat then you may want to install a quarter turn valve so that you can fully open it and effectively short circuit the other radiators so it receives all the heat for a while. And it doesn't matter where you install it, but for best performance install across the main 22mm f

Yes, but be mindful that with the fan on these radiate a lot of heat so you might be disappointed as it could blow cold quite quick unless it has all flow from the Webasto. You will just have to try. May be worth a temp setup to try first. Not sure what you mean by the question.

Connect in as though it is a normal radiator. If you want to add a heat exchanger then see lower left of diagram. To avoid double pass of water through cali when running engine heat then use webasto which has an output for running a fan (when in an automotive installation) to drive the valve open when it is operating at >40 deg. Others will say using cali feed will over cool the engine. Careful setting of the system prevents this, I.e. turn flow rate down on radiator side.

It's an "anti jemmy/jimmy" Yale lock. Very common in the US. EBay.com.

If you have fuel starvation the unit will slow the circulation pump down and the entire system never gets up to temperature, but still runs. Check your fuel lines as others have said.

Yes, this exact one. Given the issue you have, the software would be the least cost route as you can read the fault code and exercise the pump via the heater. Do you have a fuel filter, if not you may have some rubbish in the pump, take the pump off and give it a good shake. If the CD is an issue, ask the seller to email you it. The software is also available to download from various sources.

43 quid on eBay, with software. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224140130964 Sounds like pump issue, the software is quite helpful.

Glad you got it working again👍

These units need three things, air, fuel and power to get started and to run. Assuming your air supply is okay (standard silencer, no non-standard filter element) then the other two need to be checked first. 1. Power supply is the easiest. Check the voltage at the unit and check it is closely aligned with your battery voltage when the unit is trying to start <0.5v difference and >12v at worst. Try starting the webasto with the engine running if you have no voltmeter. 2. Fuel, remove a joint between the fuel pump and unit and feed into clean and clear jam jar or similar. Start t

A five year old on a scooter has a wonderful calming effect on cyclists, they slow right down and have to almost stop 😁. I try to keep one behind and one up front to ensure I can walk in safety along a busy towpath on a Saturday afternoon.

Anyone got a photo showing the outboard? I was laughing to much to take a photo when I passed it a few years back. I remember it being huge! Just seen they have one in the advert, looks smaller than I remember.

It's like community speedwatch, a disease that needs to be stamped out. Allowing/enabling members of the community to have power over others is wrong. Police it, or don't police it, but don't empower the busybody retired. My village has a tribe of these w*****s.

I came across a lady at a set of locks who commented on my kids life jackets, then pointed at her grandkids and explained how she had just sewn half a pool noodle into a T shirt for each of them. My wife commented later that it will at least make recovery of the bodies easier. Who knows what would have happened if they fell in, looked likely they would have gone over their heads and probably twisted round their arms and neck.

The Autumnish date (for hire boats) is due to the October half term school holiday, last week in October.

VED does not auto-renew unless you set up a direct debit.

No it doesn't, tax not insurance. You can of course pay by direct debit which is exactly what she now does.

The paper disc had an expiry date on it. When it disappeared the reminder in the windscreen disappeared. The renewal letter ends up in the pile of rubbish that Royal Mail like to stuff through the letter box and it gets missed. My sister did exactly this, she is disorganised, not a tax evader. They come round and clamp cars and stick massive public shaming notices on them - you must have seen it.

Cause on these canals, peeps have cratch covers and bigger holes !

Have a look at this pdf. Although written by Drayton it summarises all the types. https://wiser.draytoncontrols.co.uk/support/document/wiser-radiator-thermostat-adapter-guide

No it isn't. Do as Tony suggests at first and eliminate the easy wins. I don't want to send you in the wrong direction, but I had this on same engine mechanical PRM, 2008. The default thrust plate fitted is the rock hard 'commercial' version and it rattled as you describe. I fitted a softer one and the rattling went away. Can't remember the details, but easy to identify the correct one from the catalogue once off. Relatively easy change if you are mechanically minded and don't mind grazing your knuckles. But check the obvious stuff first, including moving everything in the engine bay that can

Rattle in gear at tick over, goes when throttle applied, quiet in neutral. I thought that was a classic for worn thrust plate Tony? Although perhaps the more basic checks first. If it is, increase idle speed slightly and it will go away - for a bit. Do you have a mechanical PRM gearbox on that beta 38, about 10 years old?