Cas446

You've misunderstood. Firstly I agree with you, that is why I said 'valid point'. If you are going to get a boat painted and by that I mean properly by a professional, then you get covers fitted first along with anything else that results in drilling or welding of the shell. You then hand the boat over to the painter who has the responsibility of removing all the fittings, painting and then refitting of all the fittings, hence my point about the painter having liability for corrosion around those fittings as the painter fitted them - it no longer matters who drilled them. This is basic contract management, ordering of activities to ensure liability is with the most appropriate contractor. It is not advisable to get your boat painted and them employ someone else to drill holes in the new paintwork, hence invalidating any opportunity of redress with the painter. The liability (at those locations) moves to the canvas installer who's T&Cs will be very limiting. Hope that's clearer now, but as I said I agree with your point about if they are going to install fixings they need to do it properly, but you take on risk as an owner which you can avoid, in this specific situation.

Valid point, but your neighbour dropped a bollock there, you get covers fitted before painting, not after - to ensure the liability for any corrosion around fittings is with the correct party.

If pram covers are not your thing then this won't either. The frame is a hoop and fits on the double bed or behind the sofa, it's one piece but very light polished stainless steel, but removal is rare. The canvas folds up, but only removed it a handful of times. It is just another option.

I understand why you say that, but that is not the case, the cover is within the profile of the roof and bow and i have never hit it on any infrustructure. Had one for 5 years, gives lots of room inside and easy access to the gas locker and on top which is quite useful. The only time i have taken it down is when on deep river locks for better front rope access and through Froghall tunnel.

For a different approach you could go for a cratch hood. No boards required. https://canvasman.co.uk/cratch-hood They now do raised versions for extra headroom.

Try this place for sourcing metals. They are based in Birmingham and their shop front hasn't changed in the last 30 years. Great place my dad has used them for many years. https://www.johnkeatleymetals.com/

A fellow boater over wintering in the pontoon next to us decided to swap landline plugs and help himself to our prepaid meter. Marina dealt with it, he left, they gave us some extra credit.

Had similar experience, with the diversionary route only detailed at the dry end!

Absolutely it's all about personal circumstances. We winter cruise with two young kids, I hate driving with stove smoke in my face, with this system the boat is toasty for them all day long without my intervention, and I get a continual blast of warm air through the hatch. At all other times of the year it just makes keeping towels, coats and kids clothes dry in a busy boat a lot easier as it's 'free' heat whilst on the move. Not for everyone, but for me, a great solution.

The K&A at Avoncliff when the railway line was built, perhaps Dundas as well? And at the top of the Bath locks for the same reason.

Don't connect the circuits together for all the good reasons already mentioned. You need one of these with the cover. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263272702860 Install in series with the Webasto, you can use the Webasto pump by cutting the wiring and inserting a changeover relay. Install a push button to power the changeover relay and the pump at the same time. With the switch off the Webasto is connected back to its pump. Alternatively add another pump in series, these pumps have a high flow rate when not running. Or connect in parallel with the webasto, with the flow in the opposite direction and use non-return valves (draw it out and you will see how that works - although you need spring type non-return valves). I connected my heat exchanger on the clarifier return, and run it when the engine is up to temperature, never a problem with over cooling, Beta 38. Although conceptually better on the skin tank, but for me would have been a messy install. Best mod I ever made to my boat, radiators will get very hot!

Yup used magnets for many years. I used these, although my panels are flat. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184140469497 Obviously your panels could be stolen, but once the magnets are on, it's not an easy or quick task to lift them back off.

Thanks, I'll make a note in my pearsons 🤣

Hidden trolley stop, obviously the wife just blindly pushed the trolley through at which point the wheels locked. I then had to drag the thing down the tow path to the boat. She then announced that the trolley didn't have a pound in it, it was a token from her key ring and that she wanted it back. I then had to drag it all the way back. I thought that passing over the trolley stop would restore wheel function - not the case. After trying to drag it across the car park I could take the shame no more, got another trolley, mated it, recovered token and walked off trying to regain some dignity. I can quite understand why they end up in the canal if they they make it out of the car park!

Moored at Sainsbury's a few years back for a day at the severn valley railway. I remember thinking how horrible the walk across town to the station was. Otherwise great day out. Just annoying that you can't get the trolley the last 5m to the towpath!

Or here for a bit less. http://www.mikuniheating.com/Results.cfm?category=27&secondary=32

You don't need a residential mooring near Bath, you don't even need a boat, just a shed and some oil drums, sorted.

I did the Llangollen early August, it's great fun being part of the mayhem. As others have said, schedule carefully, plan to hit pinch points late evening to get through early morning, then moor up other side and enjoy your breakfast as the boats start to queue up. I am stuck to school holiday times, my parents who often go out June and Septemeber seem to have the same levels of 'busy'.

Regarding strong points, my t'stud is welded and I have been considering what strong point to use. Last time out I noticed the hole in the stem post that i presume the shell builder used to move the boat around, tucked behind the front fender. Will probably use this next time out to back up the T'stud? Mud weights, an alternative to the 56lb weight are railway sleeper chairs. Can be found on old railway lines within piles of old sleepers, a windlass is a perfect fit for the sleeper bolts. Two together is very heavy.

I make slow progress, I like it that way. I let boats past if they come up behind, pull over to towpath side, quick wave, easily done. If the boat behind intentions are unclear, I ask a passing boat to ask the boat behind to give a toot on the horn if they want to go by.

Bridge 5 Llangollen, now.

An alternative to wet and dry vac, is to remove the lower skin tank coolant hose at the engine end, and feed a hose down connected to a pump mounted on the end of a battery drill. Pump the old coolant directly into containers, very effective, avoids double handling and avoids dumping everything into the bilge. Will also extract the crud accumulated in the bottom of the skin tank. Pump the header tank dry first.

Just booked, asked for passage on a particular day and received email for 11am slot, arrive 30mins before.

Just an idea, can you get your car close to the boat, have you got tow bar electrics? Make up a lead and while your visiting, use your car to do any bulk charging. Then a small solar panel whilst you are away. Never done this, so may be a nonstarter, just an idea.

Get the correct exhaust here. http://www.mikuniheating.com/Results.cfm?category=27&secondary=32