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That will be lack of HTTPS, yes. With unencrypted HTTP it's possible for parties between the client and server to monitor and intercept requests - either just to snoop, or to pretend to be your server and return something malicious instead of what was requested. Examples I'm aware of in the wild: * operators of public WiFi networks logging users' device info and the pages they visit, then selling the data. (this one also needs encrypted DNS to fix entirely, but browsers are working on that too). * unscrupulous ISPs (looking at you, Virgin Media) returning fake ad-loaded search pages when DNS lookup fails [i.e. there shouldn't really be a page at the address at all] * poorly-configured public WiFi enabling other users to interfere with requests, inserting viruses into the response. * governments (our own, the US and China's among many others) forcing ISPs to let them monitor or interfere with traffic as above. Chinese entities have repeatedly used a technique called 'BGP hijacking' to redirect traffic between other countries that would never normally pass through China so they can do so. None of these are possible with HTTPS. The nature of the content you intend to serve is moot because the data is tampered with before you receive it and after you send it back. The browser vendors and other large companies don't gain at anyone's expense from using HTTPS - in fact as above it makes certain tracking techniques impossible. Certificates are free these days. It's just standard good practice. I'd also be happy to help with sorting it out, your site's a great resource and it would be a shame to lose it.

Not according to the link I posted above, it says they're the same as Lyca (no Band 20). https://www.simsherpa.com/networks/talk-home-mobile/review-and-guide "Talk Home aren’t as slick as joining EE directly. You don’t get WiFi calling or VoLTE and your SIM won’t connect to EE’s Band 20 4G transmitters, which will affect coverage in rural areas and capacity in urban areas."

You can unscrew the stubby aerials and connect an external one, you may need new adapters though as they will be SMA-Female on the back of the router. You'll need to connect to the router with a laptop/tablet/phone to switch the setting to external aerial too for best results (connect to wifi, type 192.168.1.1 in a browser window). Don't think the Huawei app gives you that much control if memory serves. I have the same router paired with an external Poynting aerial.

Found this on eBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276346684524? Seems a good bit of kit and small. Can @IanD find a fault with it to stop me getting one 🤔

Thanks, I just need something simple to install that gives me a rough idea of how much mains is being used while I'm onboard. I don't need it to have WiFi or whatever. I'm have a look on eBay for something cheap.

I have a 20amp Sonoff on the van. Bit fiddly to set up but once done you can read it from anywhere provided it has WiFi.

Presumably you've got one of these? https://marine-electricals.co.uk/product/antenna-deck-mount-n286fe-ac-marine/ These are intended for supporting relatively short (1m or so) light aerials like this, not 3m masts with a WiFi antenna on the end: https://marine-electricals.co.uk/product/celmar4-3ft-vhf-aerial-acmarine/ https://marine-electricals.co.uk/product/fame2-4ft-am-fm-antenna-ac-marine/ If you put a 3m pole with an antenna on the top into that mount, I'd be very surprised if it survived very long, especially in any wind. The normal solution is a proper pole mount made for the job, like the ones used for TV aerials on houses -- or one made for the job for a boat, but these are several hundred quid... 😞

WPA is an older, less secure, method of encryption so enabling WPA/WPA2 reduces the encryption level and would allow an older device that does not support WPA2 encryption but makes your WiFi easier to hack.

The Kobo connrcted to the house wifi fine until this week. Now it wants the password, but ignores it and won't connect. Apparently Kobo use a very cheap and nasty wifi chip, and it's all based on a very old android version. It says it wants a WPA/WPA2 password - I assume this is the one everything else (eg Sky box) uses to connect? I changed a router setting from WPA2 to WPA/WPA2 and now it works. The connection is better on the tablet too. If someone out there can tell me why I'd be grateful! I was an early adopter of all things computerised, internetty and then webby, but have now been well left behind.

Some cheap charging cables only have the power cables but not the data cables inside them. can you connect anything else to the computer using those two cables? The house wifi router might be blocking the connection if the wifi works via hotspot. Or the house router might be set to only use a type of wifi the reader doesn't support.

Some do. My old Lenovo tavlet did but an upgrade stopped that working. I now make sure the wifi is off when not in use and always turn the location off, as that uses loads of power. I use a widget on the home screen to turn the wifi off.

Excellent. Cables are weirdly important. I've got a Kobo reader that will charge ok with two cables but won't connect to the computer with either of them, but will with a third. And its wifi will connect via my phone hot-spot but not with the house WiFi. These things are designed with built in irritations.

yes I liked the Wagon and Horses, on/by the traffic lights? cant remember if they had wifi £2.75 on a Tuesday here down south in the midlands

We're not disagreeing here -- your solution does work best with older gear, which is what you have. But it's not the best solution for newer gear, which is exactly what I said... 😉 "This didn't always used to be the case with older gear, but it is with modern phones/tablets/laptops." Switching bands/SSID (with an older system like yours) works, but does mean that terminals (handsets, tablets, laptops) tend to hang on to the link they have set up for longer as it gets worse, because they have to drop and re-establish the link to hop to another basestation (router/mesh terminal). With a single SSID (and one shared between 2.4G and 5G bands, like most modern routers do -- doesn't need WiFi 6 for this, my 5-year old Plusnet one did it) they're much more willing to switch over seamlessly, and may even run both links in parallel (including MIMO) -- the result is better data rates especially near the switchover point and less chance of a momentary dropout.

Only if the system isn't set up properly🤔 Our areas don't overlap one is upstairs at one end of the house the other downstairs at the opposite end so even with different SSID switching happens as you reach the bottom of the stairs. If I go into the garage or workshop it switches back to the upstairs network as it's immediately overhead. The third one is generally not used apart from the two smart TV. Plus all the AP are fed with cat6, there is no WiFi back haul which speeds things up a lot. Using one SSID requires WiFi 6 and unless all your devices are less than 12 months old they may well nor support it. Plus I'm not about to spend money on new tech when I have a system that works just as well.

I appreciate that 2.4 has better range but lower speed (and more prone to interference), I need the range which is why I did not choose the 5GHz router. I also appreciate that the router does not prioritise any device (though my wife suspects that I have found such a setting😀) but it really does appear (from first hand experience and testing) that some devices get a lower performance when sharing the WiFi, the challenge is to understand why this is. I've just had five minutes playing now and my phone is faster if there is no other active (but idle) Apple device in the boat, but I need to repeat this tests lots of times to get a statistically significant result. Lebara doing 49/21 on the PC right now.

We got the lower tech Teletonika router as its "always on" and I read somewhere that the new higher spec one uses more power. We need wifi right through the boat (sofa at the frint and bed in the back cabin) so I assume that 2.4G is the better option. Maybe I should have got the better one and put the PC on 5 and the Apple stuff on 2.4 (if that is even possible). There does appear to a bit of a pecking order when two or more devices share WiFi and the Windows PC always comes out on top., but even with the PC off the Apple stuff does not match the speed of the PC

I can do repeated speeed tests alternating between phone and PC and the phone is always slower. Ookla says the phone is connected to our wifi (Vodaphone) rather than its own mobile O2 signal. The (old) iPad is even slower than the iPhone and that is wifi only, it does not have 3G. I think its an Apple issue. It would be interesting to test an Android phone. The Teletonica only supports 2.4GHz which suits me as that is fast enough and we need the better range. There are a few people asking the same question on the www but not getting a sensible answer.

If the iPhone has connected to the 2.4ghz WiFi and the PC to the 5ghz WiFi then the iPhone will have lower speeds. Same phone to my WiFi from same position. 5ghz 25mbs 2.4ghz 7.5mbs It will always connect to the strongest signal which is usually 2.4ghz which is why my 2.4ghz is disabled 😉

Are you saying that the iPhone, when connected to the same wifi network as (for example) a laptop computer, gives much worse speed test results? It would seem odd, but maybe an explanation is that some networks throttle or disallow speed tests (it is quite network-heavy), maybe with their "network traffic rule" coming into play after say 500mb or so of data is through - so it could make sense that a 2nd, 3rd etc test is much slower than the first. If its mobile network, not wifi, then was the iPhone inside the boat? I have noticed sometimes the "faraday cage" effect absolutely hammers a mobile phone's performance, while other times its completely unaffected - I can only assume this is due to the frequencies used. Having it by a window can help too.

I confess that I don't understand all this stuff, despite an engineering background, and for reasons that I just don't understand the iPhone appears to return much worse results than other devices using the same wifi network. We are "out in the sticks" and right on the edge of a Vodafone cell. Using a Teletonika Router and Poynting Xpol. With a Lebara sim I usually see 20+ on my PC though it does slow down sometimes. Have seen over 60. Just done a test right now, PC gives 43 down, 23 up, my iPhone, right next to the PC, gives 18 down, 19 up. The boat behind has just also got a Lebara sim in a very old mifi and has seen 80 down, but mostly a fair bit less. My wife has another iPhone and an iPad and these both give much inferior results to my PC (Microsoft Surface Pro).

Assuming you are talking about multi sim or family account then yes it has to be another EE sim. Yes you can put any sim you like in the B535 router, and your phone (or any other device) will connect to the router via WiFi just like WiFi in a house. It is totally separate from any network locks on your phone.

Specification quote 1-30 lit/min. Wifi already tested and working from middle of boat. Temperature max is 80degC.

Well yes, obviously. The router (and built in wifi antenna) is in a wardrobe at the front of the boat. It is on the top shelf so quite high up.

Little loads add up very fast. My compost toilet extractor, wifi router, Fire tablet (on the cabin wall for system monitoring) all add up to 1 amp. This is 24ah a day! LED tape is pretty damn inefficient in terms of watts consumed and lumens output compared to something like an LED torch for a couple of reasons. As it's on a tape, there's no easy way for the LEDs to shed their heat, no heatsink...so they run hot, which in turn reduces their output. The high brightness tape is a lot more inefficient too. Also, so you can cut it to length and use a constant voltage driver, there's loads of current limiting resistors built into the tape, as you probably know, this way of driving LEDs is far less efficient than a constant current driver...but then you wouldn't be able to cut to length.