Tractor

This could be useful: https://youtu.be/-xm4l13aY6I

I have a Beta 43 with this enclosure; constructed from powder coated steel. The engine sits within a steel base, sides, pt./stbd. locate with rubber edge seals, which fit well. A fan extracts air through the enclosure, 221M3/hr at the aft end, through a hose to the hull skin, pt. side. Air inlet fwd end, must be free for this air volume to enter through louvers. The fan is powered on my boat from 12V DC, from the oil pressure switch, with oil pressure the switch moves over to power the fan. The electrical connection made at the fan by bullet connectors failed, the fan stopped, this was not immediately obvious, by the time I noticed the engine was a bit hot. Fortunately the alternators did not suffer, and I ran with 'tel tale' bits of string tied to the air outlet for some time afterwards. Access is difficult: Oil filter, stbd side fwd, is via a removable step cover, once the enclosure side is removed. Fuel filter access ok. Engine oil and gearbox oil pumped out via two taps, a 1 lite jug fits under the pump outlet. Spilt oil, can disappear in the tray to come back later, so cleaning up takes a bit of time. Enquire about the supply for the fan, mine is 12 volt, new versions I believe are 230 V 1 phase? Summary: Very good installation, engine stays clean, and very effective for noise reduction, I would do this again.

This drawing should be useful 100-10938 00 WIRING FOR S-BOX FAN CONTROL.pdf

As the switch goes over it breaks the oil pressure light supply, and makes the supply to the exhaust fan for the enclosure. Two way device; with the engine covers removed it is just possible to reach the switch.

The supply comes from the oil pressure switch, port side of engine. Awkward to get at.

There is a good place to moor between bridge's 29 and 28, Stratford Upon Avon canal, convenient Armco and the towpath has been nicely mown by the house adjacent. After Lapworth locks going for Birmingham, could not be better. Then the 'LOUD', very loud music started up, from behind the hedge; the answer was obvious do not moor here, so after holding out for some time we had to move on.

Thanks for the notice and update, this route required next week, hope the repair is good. Hatton locks, now showing their age. I guess CRT have this work on their ‘critical path’ analysis?

Try this https://youtu.be/N4QH7m0LXos

To run a motor from a sine wave inverter is problematic. The inverter is making a sine wave at about 8 Volts using transistors switching on and off to create a sine wave shape to mimic the mains supply. The 230 Volt output is derived from this 8 Volt sine wave by a ‘step up’ transformer. To make an inverter with a 2000 Watt capacity, (2000W/230V = 8.6 Amperes) and to make this current capacity from 8 Volts (230/8 = 29) that is 29 x 8.6 = 249 Amperes. The inverter then is drawing 249 Amperes from the batteries, via the inverter to support a 2000 Watt load. The washing motor is a commutating motor, thyristors switch on & off to regulate the speed of the motor at 100 times / second, each switching event turns the supply on creating both a current surge and Voltage spike in excess of the 230 Volt supply from the inverter. In normal domestic installations the supply is softened by the transmission line which can run for many miles, spikes and surges are absorbed. In a boat or RV, the transmission line may be just a metre, with no room to absorb the interference created by the motor, supply impedance is very high, the interference is like hitting a brick wall. The inverter is being ‘hit’ by these switching events at the output transformer @ 249 Amperes & some 300 Volts peak. Whilst the light bulb may be absorbing some of these switching events, a solution may be found in decreasing the circuit impedance, a trial fix may be found by hiring a ‘site’ 230V / 230V isolation transformer form the hire shop. The transformer comes with a fixed 13 A socket and cable with 13A plug, very heavy. Here I have to come ‘clean’, I do not have a washing machine on board and cannot test this, I am hoping this will help to get things working. A day’s hire may lead to a permanent solution, and possibly an answer?

I used Araldite, not the cheapest option at the time, but has lasted a couple of years so far.

The embarrassment of using a Bow Thruster, on the navigation within earshot, ensures these devices are a neglected component.

The main snag with bowthrusters, is that they are not used regularly to maintain the brushes free in the holders, the commutator, and contactor free from damp. Strip down and clean, I would bet there are no spares required.

Arrrrggh, I think I need a lie down…………..

Perhaps it will be possible to fill the 'potholes' in the road at Cropredy now.

Or, is this two systems ‘engine’ witch will be pressurised, using the radiator cap; and the header tank is serving the boat heating, radiators?

They have done a drop test on the rams (left cassion up at night) and the seals are holding up, but will need to be replaced soon. This can be done with the rams in situ, but the cassions must be parked up on emergency frames, then disconnected. There is also a lot of corrosion to be attended to, as well as the guillotine seals. He said work will take at least 18 months, assuming nothing else found. If Canal & River Trust had the ability and perhaps knowledge, to explain the the problem which exists with this installation the 18 month shutdown would be acceptable or perhaps justifiable. The narrative above does this in few words, communicating the difficulty of maintaining the structure; supporting the many stoppages with a form of justification would make the delays tolerable?

BBC Midland Today give an overview of the fire and the damage. Mr Lumsden, (Lumpy) I guess is stuck for some time.

Try this guy!

Using the Bedazzled dimensions for the LED units either 'side pin', or'back pin', cut out a card the same dimensions and check it will fit into your fitting, for depth as well as diameter; the pins can be cropped to fit, provided the contact is adequate. This is important, as I had some trouble deciding if the LED element would install correctly, before placing the order. Also, these elements can be bright for a confined space, so consider the brightness @cool white or warm white? The galley looks ok with the cool white, but warm white may be better down the accommodation end.

Data from my mains powered fridge, model LA 120W: BEKO, 230V, 55W, 0.24A.

£0.12/unit for power + £0.07/unit for service

Over 3 years I am paying £3.7/month. 5 x 110Ah, lead acid batteries.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iO2a9I4VfDk