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thingsweregood

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  1. So assuming 'typical' use and roughly accurate manufacturer figures, I should take 46 Ah as the figure to enter on my power audit? I also FINALLY managed to find the brand name/model number of my batteries on the unit (those 68kg guys are hard to move in a small space!): I've got 2 x Deka Unigy HR7500ET. I can't tell what the Ah/capacity of these would be?
  2. I'm going to attempt to do a power audit so I know what I need to be prepared for after summer (currently 720W solar is covering my needs, but notice things get a little low after a few cloudy days). The boat currently has a 240V LEC under counter fridge freezer, model T50084W. Unknown age, looks to be a good few years old, but seems to work well. I want to assess how much power this uses if left on 24 hours a day, with the inverter. Then I can figure out if I'm better going with a 12V fridge, a newer 240V (not sure if you can get more efficient than A+ forn undercounter fridge/freezers?), or if the current setup is fine. I have a Victron Phoenix 12/800 inverter, plus 1 x starter battery and 2 x Deka Unigy HR7500ET lesiure batteries (750W?? Can't tell capacity) I can't tell from the spec sheet below how many watts the fridge uses or how to work out how many watts per hour (so I can then work out the amp hour draw). I also am not sure how much draw from the battery the inverter uses being on 24/7... Does this model inverter have a 'sleep' mode whereby it turns itself off when no/low power is being drawn (eg, if fridge compressor is not running)? ⁉️
  3. Oh great! This definitely gives me something to go off. Drop back - I guess, yes. No hole in the glass, they're just glued on, and the slider fits into a recess in the window fitting. Very low profile - 5mm.
  4. Can't find these style of window catches online anywhere - anyone know what they're called? They just stick on to the hopper window with double sided tape.
  5. I meant more that if I were to get a double coil calorifier I would be reducing fuel consumption by killing two birds with one stone so to speak, where as currently I'm keeping the processes separate (even if the fuel consumption isn't exactly the same rate for eber/engine)
  6. Oh, I'm not actually sad! I suppose I meant it in the 'things are just a little more complicated if you're never in a marina' with regards to power, water etc.
  7. What would an immersion heater be used for in a nb calorfier and why? Does this essentially make a single coil calorifer into a twin coil on by way of retrofitting it with a stick that heats up via the engine? Sorry wasn't sure if this reply was in reference to my question or Wanderer's
  8. Ah yes, good shout on the double fuel consumption. Maybe it's better I get the calorifier replaced sooner rather than later then, as I'll probably end up spending the cost of the unit on just fuel consumption between now whenever I was planning on getting it replaced! Which model of double coil calorifier do you have? Got it! Good to know I won't be breaking anything by running them at the same time. Thank you!
  9. I have so many dumb questions I should probably start a thread just for them... I have a single coil calorifier, with hot water heated by an eberspacher (no idea of the model). I just press a button, it fires up, I leave it for an hour or two, and then I have enough hot water to last me 24 hours or so. As my engine doesn't heat the water (I've been told to fit a double coil calorifier but that will have to be a job for another day...). I'm relying on the eberspacher alone for this. What is the most advisable method in order to not damage any components? Run the eberspacher whilst I'm cruising or have the engine going, to take advantage of the fact that the batteries are charging at the same time (I assume the eberspacher uses some battery power in addition to diesel)? Or only run them separately as they're both using diesel, or some other reason I don't know? Thank you!
  10. Yep, caught the water in a bucket and put into various containers! Trying to avoid contaminating the canal we all live on Will put the pump back into the tub. Interesting about the BSS thing... I had no idea. So what's the purpose of keeping the pump in a little plastic tub below the prop shaft then? I think the areas might be different, because there was a bit of water below the engine, at the furthest area away from the rudder, but that was definitely clear, where as under the prop shaft had the black sitting on top. Hard to see if there is mini-bulkhead dividers as it's hard to get down there.
  11. Thanks all! Got someone to have a peep at it, and you're right - it was oil sitting on top of water. Engine oil is at a good level, as is water/antifreeze etc. Just need to put a bit of extra oil in the gearbox. One thing was that the bilge pump was sitting inside a plastic tub floating in the bottom of the engine bay so when I turned it on it wasn't pulling any water through, as it couldn't get to it. We popped the pump into the water and cleaned it out, and soaked up the surface oil with some pads.
  12. Hello, Another (probably v basic) question from me - I've been putting in a lot of hours cruising as I'm moving my new home to the area I want to be, and I've noticed a build up of black, quite viscous liquid in the bottom of my engine bay below the prop shaft. I've got a trad stern, so I assume it's not rainwater. I measured it with a stick and it's about 4 inches of liquid. Any ideas what it could be and if I should be really concerned? Checked my oil levels and they still appear to be good. And any idea for how to easily remove? It's a really long distance down and such a small space I'm not sure if I'd be able to contort myself to bail it out with a jug. Thanks in advance!
  13. This is the exact situation that the boat currently has for the TV aerial so I figured I'd just do the same for the new poynting cables right next to it.
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