Monkeybox

So guess what. This is fixed!!!! O M Goodness I was so excited when it worked. How? Well a long answer and a short answer. Skip to bottom for the short answer! First I went to change the frequency and voltage using the jumpers. Thought that would be fairly straight forward, but reading the manual and looking at it, it is actually pretty involved and no way to see the results of your changes so trying all different setting was going to be pretty laborious and imprecise. So I looked at connecting with Victron Connect. That is how I connect to the solar controllers via bluetooth and iphone. You need to get a Bluetooth dongle for the inverter though and plug it in to the RJ45 socket. Not particularly cheap but if it works I'll try it. But... on further reading I discovered that connecting in this way only allows basic control, ie. On/Off and set shore power limit... NOT to change frequency and voltage. Hmmm, not much good. To connect properly you need to connect to a laptop, still using Victron Connect app, but with a RJ45 cable... but it can't go straight into the computer, it needs to go into a little box that converts to a usb plug. A Victron Interface Cable MK3 VE.Bus to USB to be precise. Apparently if it is hard wired in this way you can change all the settings. I'm using Mac and an iPhone. It has to be on OS, won't work on IOS so not on phone or tablet. OK fine, I need to get this working so I bought the VE.Bus to USB thing, then I went and bought a RJ45 cable to connect the two. Turned on my Mac, opened Victron connect and... Success!! There was my inverter showing all the details of what it was doing and access to all the settings. The Zanussi machine says 230-240v 50Hz. The inverter was giving 230v at 50Hz. First attempt change volts to 240v... It seemed to be working a lot better... glimmer of hope? But no. Half way through the same old stopping and hopeless clicking as the relay engaged and disengaged. Tried very voltage in between and no joy. It was just the same as before. Changed the frequency to 60Hz. Non starter. Machine just blank for 20s followed by an error light flashing. So it looked like the end of the road. All I could tell was that when the clicking and general not working occurred was when the voltage was out of range, either dropping below 230 or jumping over 240v. It seemed like the Inverter was struggling to keep the voltage stable. sometimes it tanked down to like 130v briefly... which would have the machine clicking, but after the voltage returned it would continue to click, as if that episode had thrown it out. After all the hope and excitement thinking I had a route to success I was pretty disappointed that nothing seemed to be having a positive effect. Eventually I clicked the 3 little dots in the top corner and opened the About Software info. There was a little clickable link offering to update to latest Firmware. Oh yes I thought, I ought to do that. On completion the machine restarted and I jumped out of my skin to hear the noise the inverter made. It suddenly started buzzing harshly, crackling like a geiger counter. Rushed to the engine room expecting to see blue smoke coming out of the thing... what had I done?? But then, the washing machine ran, and then it went to rinse cycle and then it went into the spin cycle... and then it stopped..! I couldn't believe it. Quickly I put another load on and sat there watching it for the full cycle. It worked absolutely fine, just like when on shore power. The inverter continued to make the new crackling sound but without any apparent problem. Not wanting to get carried away I have waited a week or so and yes, I can report that the problem has been completely resolved. I expect the people at Victron were aware of the issue and have managed to resolve it with a software update, so... The short answer is - I updated the firmware. Seems obvious now doesn't it?!

Thought I’d post a follow up. I got a 3000/12 multiplus and… exactly the same problem. Got a washing machine engineer in who went all over it without finding any problems. Plugged in to shore power (which I have managed to avoid for over 2 years) and… it worked perfectly. So I have a nice powerful inverter that can’t run the main thing I got it for, and a washing machine with no faults that I can’t use. 😠 Oh well, I will try playing with the Hz and Voltage output, but it is already set as specified on the washing machine so I don’t hold out much hope. what to do. Different washing machine?

Thanks, yes it is rated at 1600w. The element is 1400w. I realise 1200w is too small if the element is being used. I have a BMV Battey Monitor and am watching the current draw. It doesn’t trip the inverter which I know will provide a bit more than that for a short time. I was always intending to get the Multi 12/3000 when I’ve saved up for it, but was interested to see if the 1200 could power the cold wash in the meantime. Cutting out because of too high a draw I could understand, but this erratic behaviour was not expected. After then reading lots about problems with Victron Zanussi combinations I became concerned that even after I install a decent big inverter we still won’t be able to use the washing machine away from shore power. Not keen to also have to replace an otherwise good machine. I am not using the power save mode, though I have tried both to see if it makes any difference. Interesting what you say re. it turning the element on for a short period. I wonder if it is doing that. It does make a click before starting a spin and I put the 1000w kettle on briefly which encourages it to spin. If I don’t it does a half turn then stops and tries again. You’d think that would trip the inverter but it handles it no problem in brief bursts. Encouraging to hear at least one person using the combination I plan to have soon with no problems. Hoping maybe the bigger inverter won’t feel the “shocks” of the sudden stop starts like a smaller one does. Fingers crossed it isn’t just a fact that Victron / Zanussi aren’t compatible. Interesting that you spoke to Victron about this problem. I wonder what Grid Detect is actually checking. The frequency maybe?

Hi, I have come across / rediscovered this forum while googling about a problem I am having running a Zannusi ZWC1301 washing machine from a Victron Inverter. I istalled the machine a while ago and only ever used it while plugged in to shore power. I have a Victron 12/1200 inverter that predates the installation. Having recently refreshed my leisure batteries (8pzb520 about 600 ah at C20) and invested in a reasonable amount of solar I thought I should be able to run it from the inverter on the cold wash without problem. However, it keeps clicking in and out, won’t spin properly, doesn’t complete the cycle etc. which I now know many have experienced from reading various posts here. It doesn’t overload the inverter, it just seems confused by the power source. I have read about the sudden switching on/off it does causing harmonics (?) in the wave form and that a work around is to plug a 100w bulb into the 240v side. Trying to do everything as energy efficiently as possible that is not a very desirable solution... Switching other heavy loads on at key points in the cycle does seem to coax it into working better. Not very practical though! I have been planning to upgrade to a Multiplus 12/3000. Not specifically to run the washing machine but I am wondering if anyone can tell me if the machine is more likely to be happy with the larger inverter? If not I am now considering going to the expense and hassle of changing the washing machine to something that will accept the inverter. I am very happy with the Zannusi’s performance on shore power. I had no idea this was a potential issue when I got it as I understood the inverter power to be similar if not better than shore power. Trouble is, all my system is Victron. I really like them in general and am not likely to change all that side of things. Can anyone tell me if they have experience of the other popular small washing machine Candi working with a Victron inverter?

Sorry. I didn't realise it only shows files to people who register. How do I upload a Power point presentation slide file please? Do you know? I don't think filling it in is quite the idea. Where I am there are a lot of new developments on ex wharfs and a lot less places for boats to moor. The canal is pretty and a feature to a developer but coal chimnies are a differnt thing. Now there's a thought

I think if you look at the shiny glass blocks going up alongide them you would see lots of people will happily have B.W.s property profile. I want to post a file on here but can't workout how. Doesn't seem to be an option, so can I point you to a forum where it was an option as a quick way of showing it? http://www.justcanals.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=6663 In the 3rd post. Came across this too http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/shared/bsp/hi/pdfs/24_09_10_bbcnewsquangos3.pdf

Oh good. I was worried I might get a diatribe about being a liability to myself. That gives me confidence to proceed. The alternative is to make a seperate little box to the side for the switch which I think will look unneseccary, not to mention be more work! Ta.

Hi, I am installing a system from scratch and am wiring my main batteries to the fuse box. As the battery box, which is from a forklift so made of half inch thick solid plasic, extends about 3 inches above the battery, I was planning to install the main isolator switch directly into the box. By that I mean just drill a 20mm hole in the side and poke the switch through. However. As I have come to do this job it has occured to me that this may be a bad idea as the contacts are inside the box at the top where the explosive gas will be. This might be considered a big no no. I have had a boat before with the switch mounted like that in a metal box and there was not a problem for the safety cert. I will be covering the box with a plywood lid which will have vent holes on top. Looking at the switch (the usual big red key one) the contacts are covered but is that adequate? Can't find reference to it in the BSS and have had a search on here but am still not sure. Thanks

And now I've got pics working, this is the interior in it's ''as found state''. Looking a bit better now. Massive solid stern tube too about 18 inches of it. Hardley ever get a drip!

Right, Have worked out pictures so this is it. Err ..yeah brick is an accurate assumption! Now I look at this again it seems to have a tiny surface area, Bit of an ''egg whisk'' as someone said earlier. As you can see not much scope for more diameter but a much higher DAR is surely in order? not sure to what degree that is likey to improve things. Perhaps a 2:1 AND a better suited (higher DAR and pitch) prop and I'd be away. They probably just put on whatever was spare around the yard. As you can see it has something of a ''homemade'' feel to it and was probably knocked up pretty roughly for the job. It came from a yard in Hull that dealt with MUCH bigger craft on the Humber. It's just coincidental its 6' and with the bumper beams, 7' wide. Ideal for the canal. Going to take it to a yard, get it out and get it sorted but am interested in as many opinions as possible The round bit you can see opposite the shaft on the vertical bar from counter to skeg is from a previous installation and does not line up with the shaft, although it does a good job of catching the bicycle tyres between itself and the prop! For a clearer pic click here http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/le...lcompressed.jpg

Yes, going for 2:1 seems a good first step to get closer to an acceptable match. Also 4 bladed prop is a good idea. the surface area of the current one does not seem very high. I am no expert on props and not sure what the pitch of the one on now is. Trying to put a pic up so you can see what I'm talking about but it's asking me for the url of the pic. It's on my hard drive, can't I upload it? I've compressed it to 400K. Also, yes a two speed box would be great. I'll burn up to a job, hook up, then drop her into low for some serious work. But alas I don't think I am going to get that sophisticated. And yes it is an HA3..! with a Lister Blackstone Gearbox. Main reason I bought it as it was worth it for the engine alone. Running lovely and only had to replace a leaking fuel pipe (diesel ending up in the sump and idle would ride up and down). Thanks for all the replies.

Right, I mean there is always going to be a degree of over gearing cos its designed to be highly geared to be able to push stuff. Don't think there is much difference whether pushing or pulling. It's getting an acceptable balance between light and laden,pushing something and not pushing something.

Thanks, interesting that you found you were then over propped. Wasn't sure if I would get away with leaving the prop as is.

SCROLL DOWN... I have added some pics now so you can see what I'm on about. TA. Hi, thought I would try the people on here for advice with this problem. I have a small 17' hull, fairly crudely built, fitted with a Lister HA3. it has a 3:1 reduction and is turning a prop which I roughly measured at 18 1/2 so is prob 18'' or 19''. It was built to tow large 40 odd ton gravel barges and had a huge towing point on the back for this. It is 6' wide and is pretty deep draughted at 2 1/2ish foot depending on balasting When I say crudely built I mean there are no fine lines, no long swim, although it does taper very quickly and obliquely to the prop. So to the problem... I have since converted this hull to a pusher tug for use on the canal. The current set up provides me with loads of power but the trouble is rather than pushing huge barges I am mainly pushing light, shallow, broken down narrowboats. Often I have to travel long distances to fetch them. Whilst I am traveling light I have to rev the engine to nearly full (which is 1800rpm) to go at barely walking speed. This is noisey and drinking diesel! It is like driving a landrover down the motorway in low ratio. I am wondering if the best solution is to change to a 2:1 reduction and (I don't know) keep the prop. Or, Put on a larger prop (but this can only go so far as there is only a few inches more before you hit counter/skeg) Or, Can I increase the pitch so it will push me further per rev or will I end up with a lot of froth and noise. I realise these options will impact on the torque (is that right in this context?) I have available but I have oodles of power and no speed. It is a water tractor at the moment. It is hardly noticing a 60' narrowboat on the front as it is, and is easier to drive with the extra length. I know a longer boat is easier to push through the water than a short one. Also I know HA2s will happily push a 72' motor at LOW revs. I'm trying to make this a good all rounder. Ie, can go long distance, light, at low revs but still have some serious power when pushing a large obstacle when it gets there. Currently the wash out the back is a huge mess of turbulence which I put down to the bluff swim. All contributions gratefully recieved and I will try to stick up a photo of the underside if anyone is interested/when I get the pics off my wifes computer. Thanks