AndrewIC

Mainly because the gates leak like a sieve, it’s only in recent years that there has been all the faffing around with the top paddles. The line is important though (although I think it’s markers on the upper face of both sets of intermediate gates, rather than the wall, unless they’ve repainted that), in a three or more chamber staircase it’s easier to drain the upper and intermediate chambers too far.

A few years back the electricity board (yeah, I know they aren’t that any more) came round and fitted an switch disconnector between the CU and the meter. The terminal cover at the meter side of the switch has a company seal on the screw, the one at the CU end doesn’t. I thought they’d done that pretty much everywhere now.

If you are going to have to remove whatever cabin lining is in place, cut out the sprayfoam, then make good the foam from a can, and then put the lining back again ... why not get the brackets welded? No holes to let the water in, no need to be able to remove the lining again if they work loose?

The traditional form of the loyal toast in Lancashire is “The Queen, the Duke of Lancaster”.

OK, thanks. That differs from what is currently on https://www.gov.uk/guidance/full-list-of-local-restriction-tiers-by-area. Daughter is a Bath Uni student, their info hasn’t been updated since the last tier rejig (which will probably be out of date by the time term starts anyway.

What’s the source for this, please? The list on gov.uk does NOT have Bath & North East Somerset moving up to Tier 3 on Boxing Day.

I hope he was carrying a box of Milk Tray.

Brass woodscrews in No2 and No3 sizes do seem to be widely available, but I don’t see anything longer than 1/2” which may be a problem unless your trim is very thin. Otherwise pin, punch and fill, which is a right faff.

If you want to secure the top oak shelf to the battens, put countersunk screws from underneath, you’ll only see them if you are lying on the floor. If you want to trim the front edge of the oak, I’m not clear why you would want to remove the trim? I’ve trimmed the edges of shelves etc with hardwood trim and just glued it with weatherproof (blue bottle) EvoStik wood glue, clamped while it dried. None of it has come off yet

Is the offside pontoon at the junction still there? Overnighted on that once. OT: Is that neon sign a Tracey Emin work? (edit to correct auto-correct)

Online can be not so good. I ordered a bathroom basin from them and it arrived promptly, but badly scratched. They shipped a replacement promptly, and the replacement arrived equally badly scratched in exactly the same way the first one was, which may indicate a systematic manufacturing fault, but they clearly hadn't inspected either of them. They arranged collection of both promptly and, after a bit if a delay, eventually refunded me. (I was going for a quick win tart-up of the bathroom by replacing the ancient beige basin with nice new white one, still available in the same design. Now going for a proper refit instead, which is what I should have done in the first place...)

Ex-Claymoore boat, I think?

Single-handing a deep lock, caught the centre line round the Teleflex lever, had to chase the boat (briefly!). ETA: Also done the thing with the engine stop/horn buttons!

Did you ever find a copy of this online? I discovered on the boat today a paper photocopy of the C2/C3/C4 installation manual that I didn’t know I had. If you still need it I can scan and email it.

The black threaded port adapters will pull out of the old pump when you release the slide clips. A new ParMax will come with similar snap-in adapters, with luck they will be the same fitting on the pump side and the old ones will go straight in. Worst case you may have to use the threaded adapters from the new pump and move the tap connectors over (the “tap connectors” are the brass nuts where the black pump adapters meet the grey pipe). The clips on your old ParMax look the same as the ones on my Shurflo shower pump (in fact the whole business end of the pump does), and as far as I recall the adapters are interchangeable.

A set of spanners to fit every nut. The torch you left on the boat before setting off for the pub when it was still light.

And if funding is not forthcoming?

Ahead of the game with the Rule of Six, though!

Stick to narrow tunnels.....

Travel in and out of tier 3 is advised against, not forbidden.

Try Uplands, they usually have a few come in for winter moorings.

Not much to a C2... no water connection, no electric. The only thing that might be a bit fiddly would be the height of the hanging bracket across the back, but as you are taking the same one out, just measure it before removing it from the wall. If you can get the cassette out and unfold the water filler, then the access hole is big enough...

40mA is about an amp-hour a day. I had an old fuse panel with illuminated rocker switches which I suspect were pre-LED, and they drew about 40mA per switch. I built a new panel using big toggle switches with built in LEDs from 12v planet, and from memory they drew about 15mA each, so I made up a pack of 2.2k resistors which brings them down to a couple of mA each, and plenty bright enough (if you like illuminated switches, that is...).