Jump to content

RS_Pete

Member
  • Posts

    24
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bath

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Engineer

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

RS_Pete's Achievements

1

Reputation

  1. Thanks Jim, I'd love to see a picture of this if one is available. I love some of the ingenuity that can be found out there, not just in the boating community, and often find myself disappearing down an internet rabbit hole for hours when looking at what can be done. The small home movement have a lot to answer for!
  2. Oh I've been poking with a sharp thing.....?I have stripped the inner cladding back to gain access to the first 6 metres or so. Due to the over cladding with metal on the outside access is difficult there though the cladding doesn't appear to have been the full length and is only on the vertical surfaces where applied. Definitely worse where clad though that may mean its older.... The starboard side is, oddly, in far worse condition than the port side, both appearing to be constructed at the same time using the same materials. The roof is worse at the bow and the stern leading me to think that it has been subject to patchwork repairs before. I also don't think there is sufficient framing giving support to the roof and sides... So I will tackle the first 5metres and then the next and then the next and presumably return to the beginning to fix anything I got wrong the first time..... And repeat?
  3. Indeed. And truthfully I don't see an easy or economic option open to me. At least with a "repair and make good" option it can be done piecemeal... unlike a steel top which will be done all at once as a one off but at unknown cost.. assuming there is anyone out there willing to do it. I have the skill sets to do either myself, though experienced guidance is always a bonus. I just lack facilities and £££'s currently. So it looks like timber/ ply replacement and repairs. All advice most welcome though?
  4. Part of the problem I have is, I think, caused by the previous owners attempts to protect the roof actually acting as a catchtank for water trapping it under poorly fitted tarps. Properly fitted as that centre section appears to be in the photo on Bargus may be the way forward while repairs are ongoing. Looks like replacement of outer panels and any other rotten wood with marine ply sealed with two pack epoxy will be the starting point. Fingers crossed
  5. The current top appears to have this done, at least in part. The existing construction, which is 18mm plywood has been repaired previously and is faced with sheet metal and then covered in a cloth painted with a bitumen paint (and yes that looks as bad as it sounds…), is somewhat sad and tired with sections needing replacing. Unfortunately I have no idea when it was done and it may have been applied over existing damaged wood, or has actually trapped moisture in as the current panelling is pretty rotten in places.
  6. Especially as it's a few years since I did any....?
  7. Well I have had a reply from Martin. Unfortunately due to Covid and its restrictions he needs to focus on his current business orders and is unable to help with this. I suspect his will not be the only boatyard in this position at present so it may be the repair option is the only option..... (Of course there's always that cheap welder and some tinsnips on FB marketplace....?) Hmmm....3 sheets approx 1.5 metres by 15 metres on the BMW might prove interesting....
  8. That stripout shouldn't take too long! The boat was effectively a blank canvas so fitout is effectively a little way off at the moment. Really need to decide where the rapidly diminishing budget is best spent and order of attack. My preference is for steel for the longevity and maintenance point of view, though I have to admit a perverse fondness for the wooden top... I have sent an enquiry to Martin. I expect it'll be a few days before I hear back with it being a holiday weekend however when I do will report back on here. Just have to figure out the best course of action...and route to Southam from the west end of the K&A...
  9. Hi Tracy, Thanks for the fast response! Do you remember if this was a welded construction or was it steel panels screwed to the existing structure? I suspect if it was Southam it may have been Kedian Engineering?
  10. I have a 63ft narrowboat with approximately 50foot of superstructure all in wood. Obviously, otherwise why would I be here, this needs repairs and replacement... Looking through all the comments available with Google search most say don't repair, replace with steel it'll be cheaper. I'll be honest I would replace if I could afford it however I can't. At least I assume I can't. I was hoping to find some guide prices however haven't really done so. If anyone could help here with rough estimates and recommendations of boatyards who can and will do this I would be grateful. I'm on the Kennet and Avon. Otherwise it is going to have to be a repair and replace with epoxied marine ply. Many thanks
  11. Hi, yes I did. Many thanks for your kind offer though. I should have posted I had, so do apologise. I have however decided to go the composting route so will have a C2 for sale shortly!
  12. Hi, It has a wooden roof. A lot of wooden roof........ Replacing the roof with steel isn't an option so I have to repair and make do for now. (Besides I kind of like the perversity of it) I have a stove with a 125mm (5" ) flue. The old stove was a 4" flue which in hindsight might have been sensible to source another the same..... On the roof there is a 4" cast Chimney collar (approx 4.75" internal diameter) and buried in the engine room I found another with a larger ID that looks like it might just take a 5" flue. Just. So how much clearance between flue and collar should I be looking for? Obviously with this it can only be single skinned....I think. Or do I need to get something fabricated? (Thanks for the tip on the greinies?!)
  13. There needs to be a like button on these forums? Now, how do I get a 5" flue through a wooden roof...? (Or should I start a separate thread..?)
  14. In the distant past I built some turbocharged performance engines for a car being raced at Le Mans. This used Wills rings, a sort metal sort of "O" ring as head gasket between liner and head, which required a groove machining in the cylinder head face. We used to locate these with a dab of clear silicone sealant purely for assembly purposes. Nothing special, just basic clear silicone sealant. Upon stripping the engines where any sealant had squeezed into the combustion chamber space there was no sign of any degradation of the sealant. It certainly didn't seem to suffer as a result of the heat. (On the whole we didn't want any sealant in there!) Combustion temps in engines are high. Very high. I would be more than happy with ordinary silicone, once cured, being able to take the heat. Though there may be other reasons as to why one that is recommended is more suitable.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.