Slim

Three!! There again I had a background of coastal and off-shore sailing. I also walked off a pontoon in Falmouth Harbour at 10am (cold sobor) without a life jacket. By the time I surfaced it took 4 beefy sailors to pull me out.

For a number of years I moored alongside the support boat for the series. The owner ran the support side of things. Some of the stories he told were quite entertaining. Surprisingly the above clip is the first time I've ever seen an episode.

That was the logic behind my actions.

The supply for my Eber was from a side entry dip pipe that I retrospectively fitted from the outside after letting the fuel to run down to about half a tank. The dip tube didn't reach right to the bottom of the tank but that was a conscious decision on my part. It was an official Eber fitting.

No, more. Excise duty, road tax, call it what you like.

Not having a pop at cyclists but how much do they directly pay to the upkeep of the roads

The Wharf at Fenny Compton had one at one stage but did away with it on a change of management Beaten by Tonka but still note its closure '

When I did my fitout I borrowed a professional mechanical crimper and produced a first class job. Fast forward a few years and I needed a crimper again. I bought a Chinese hydraulic one (available now for about about £30). It does a fair job provided that you select the formers ignoring their stated size. Normally need one size down.

Apart from total volume the thing to watch out for is what antifreeze you're buying. Not only OAT or traditional but dilution rate. An absolute minefield.

I doubt it will work. The bulk of the water tank is below water level with the bottom of it, say 15" + , below. Even if you get the syphon to start you will have to submerge the outlet to that depth towards the end of emptying. At that depth the outflow will have to overcome a pressure of ,say 24". No chance. A cheap 12 v E bay pump is only a few quid. Look for a fish pond / water feature one.

Why would you want a diesel resistant adhesive? Assuming (never assume 😇) the hatch is mechanically secured all you want is something to hold the seal during installation. I'd use grease.

No, he was taking the photograph.

Premiums = risk =greed Thatched cottage in Devon for seriously under insured fire insurance only has gone up from circa £400 to £600. Why? Explanation given was that they had had several claims in recent months. Short and Curlies springs to minď

This time last year I was quoted £400 for a hull survey in the Banbury (South Oxford) area. Survey was undertaken late Sept and the price remained the same. Well respected surveyor. Cost excluded slipping etc. Insure4Boats don't require a survey until the hull is 30 years old. Note. I had it done for peace of mind before selling ., fortunately it was a very good survey. Added. 55' hull.

Obviously it depends upon other demands as well but you might consider replacing the immersion element for a higher rated one, say 2000 w. If your generator is diesel (and raw water cooling suggests it is) it won't be working at it's optimum efficiency supporting a 1 Kva load. My 4 Kva (3.6 Kw) generator was happiest and most economical at about 3 Kva output.

A year ago, almost to the day, I realised that at 75 pushing 76 my days of single handing a 55 nb were coming to an end. The final nail was having to get help to fit a new water pump (bmc 1.8) as I couldn't bend sufficiently to line up the fixing bolts. Already booked for blacking in the September, I decided to get a hull survey (£400) . That way I would know whether I was trying to sell a good boat or a sieve. (I'd had the boat 28 years from new.) Actually put it on the market at the end of November throwing a good hull survey in for luck with an asking price of £55,000 and an expectation/hope of £50,000 subject to survey. Quiet over Christmas/New Year with some views but no offers. Early Feb got an offer of £50,000 without survey. The rest is history.

As said previously 5/16" UNF. On my 1.8 I used cap screws as they were much easier to tighten (access and clearance) Without doubt use new spring washers. A dab of thread sealer wouldn’t go amiss. Make sure you find any missing bolts. Mine came loose after thousands of hours, got picked up somehow by the flywheel/ring gear and basically blasted their way through the aluminium Bell housing. An expensive mid cruise repair and an eventual replacement. Any remaining bolts debris looked like ball bearings

I had an Origo meths hob on my first yacht. Pain in the #r#e from start to finish.

I had 2 identical hatches on my boat and took the stays off many times over the years. There was never any form of rubber washer on mine (and I had them from new) Nor did I ever have any need to rough up the inner strut. I suspect your problem is with the olive taper not entering the outer tube properly. If it doesn't enter sufficiently it won't tighten on the inner strut completely. If you do go down line of using some form of 'prop' don't take the original struts off as the lid can open a full 180 degrees and fracture the brass hinges. (I suspect you already knew that)‼️

I left my Adverc instructions on my boat when I sold it but can confirm that it's warning light was to indicate overvoltage (15v).

No NRV, no expansion vessel, using the 5 ? litre accumulator for expansion.