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But do boat movers want to grow their business or are they content working alone, not employing anyone, doing a job they enjoy and making enough money to suit their life style. https://bemorewithless.com/the-story-of-the-mexican-fisherman/

That may be what the manual or towpath expert tells you but insufficient battery cable size is only one cause of a low voltage warning. Note the word CAUSE, that is not the same as the actual fault. Base don you having to fiddle with the red switch my first suspicion, knowing the "red key" masters witches are known to be unreliable is that the switch has gone resistive, causing volt drop when a high load is applied to it. This assumes it is some indication of low voltage. I would suggest that you put both cables on the master switch onto one stud. If the noise goes away it shows the switch is a problem.

I am sure that many people are happy to price their work in a way that gives them an acceptable income rather than looking to maximise it. There is a lot of non-monitory value being your own boss with no manages to mess you about and take the mick. Likewise, being in a position to do a job you are happy to own rather than meet the demands of a company and its organization. Not everyone wants to build an empire or grab as much money as they can, being cintent is, I think, far more important.

I had a 22 year period of shared ownership, until I retired and bought my own boat. Overall it is an excellent way to see the system and learn about boats and canalling. I still have several friends who were previously co-owners. As others have said, it is the other co-owners who make or break the scheme Three things I found useful. Agree a voting system of say two thirds of owners to.agree a change rather than a simple majority. Some people don't like being put under pressure to make a decision, which often happens on a close vote. Appoint a strong chairperson to keep the annual owners meeting on track, unless you really do want to spend hours discussing curtains. Get one co-owner to act as a "clerk of works", who.will check the quality of the winter works and sign the work off. Boatyards are very variable when it comes to what they consider acceptable standards of work.

I would suggest you look to replace the red switch quite soon

I would add that on the present info air/gas in the top of the skin tank is the most likely cause but work through the list I posted hours ago.

Agree with Tracy but in addition the problem with air in the skin tank. You need roughly 1 sq ft of tank area per 4 hp so a 45hp engine needs over 10 sq ft, but less on canals where engines rarely develop maximum power. That has allowed numerous hull builders to fit undersized tanks. They work OK most of the time but now think about how a load of air trapped in the top of the tank prevents the water making contact with the whole outer surface. This in effect further reduces the effective area of the skin tank so it overheats more readily. I wonder if you have fallen foul of leaves in the cut. They tend to pack around the prop making the engine work harder and harder so if your skin tank area is a bit on the small side any attempt to maintain forward speed will cause the engine to develop more power and thus produce more heat. You will never see the leaves around the prop because as soon as you stop the prop they float away. When you get leaves around the prop the boat goes slower and slower. The answer is to pop it into astern for a moment or two. Trying to rev up to maintain speed can cause overheating and exhaust smoke.

If you are not using spray foam insulation you need to add a layer between the insulation and the plywood, to form a continuous vapour proof barrier. This stops the warm, moisture laden, air from the inside of the boat getting to the cold outside steel and condensing. It will get through the smallest gap, so be conscientious. If you use kingspan type insulation, then tape every join between two pieces of insulation using aluminium tape. If using polystyrene sheets, cover them with builders plastic membrane, taping the joins as above. Beware of the effects of PVC cable insulation on polystyrene foam sheet. The plasticiser in the cable sheath can eat into the foam and the cable becomes much less flexible, but sits in a groove in the polystyrene. Spray foam in tins (from builders merchants, screwfix, toolstation etc.) is very useful for filling small holes and gaps at joins. The gun grades are easiest to use. N

Assuming you're doing this to live on, and the budget doesn't run to sprayfoam, then use 2" polystyrene on the deck head (done in two 1" layers to it will bend to the profile of the deckhead), minmum 1" on the cabinsides (preferably 2") and 2" below gunwhale. Cabin framing looks like 1" box, so 1" battens will do the job. Any less and the timber will soon start to go black (from condensation) where it is close to the box section. With the fraiming you have, run the battens fore and aft on the deckhead, cabin side and hullside- this minimises contact with the steel and also supports the ply better. 9mm ply for the deck head, 9 or 12mm for the cabin sides, 12mm below the gunwales. Personally I'd use T&G pine above the gunwhale - it's a lighter material (so the boat will be less roly) and you can go a bit thicker so it's stronger and also a slightly better insulator than ply. If you use T&G then thebattens need to be done accross the boat, not fore and aft Do not insulate with rockwool (except around the flue collar). Do not use MDF for lots of reasons. Do put thin polystyrene tape on all the between the battens and the steelwork. Do fit the polystyrene nice and tightly, and fill in all the little gaps - it makes a difference.

Funny, lots of share boats I see have a big notice in the window advertising shares for sale

That would be "Mac off of Cygnet" round here 😁

Unfortunately, to a lot of people this has the same meaning!

The Mersey Docks and Harbour Board handed over the redundant South Docks to the Merseyside Development Corporation back in the 80s. MDC was eventually abolished and its assets transferred to English Partnerships, who IIRC became part of the Commission for the New Towns and then the Homes and Communities Agency. The docks were transferred to BW at the time they were building the Liverpool Link. Hence CRT has inherited the original dock company liability for the river walls.

The master copy of your emails should be sitting on a google server somewhere. Log on to https://mail.google.com/mail/ using any web browser. Put in your email address and password. The app on your Ipad (and indeed many other devices) should synchronise with this. You can access other Google functionality by clicking on this icon. For example I set my phone to save all the contact details (phone numbers mainly) on Google. This gives an automatic backup, for example if I were to drop my phone in the cut,

I’ve had a share in our boat since it’s launch 20 years ago. As others have said, the experience very much depends on the group of owners. We have been lucky in that our owners over the years have been easy to get on with. One of our previous owners had a share in another boat as well, and he said they other set of owners would debate the most trivial item till the cows came home. Their AGM would go on and on, whereas ours was a much more slick and successful one. Being an ex-Ownerships boat, we stuck with the O/S rotating holiday chart along with school holiday shares for those with kids at school. We also tend to move bases every two or three years in order to cruise a different part of the system.